[KolfMAKER]

XX

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

With help of @spassmaker I focused on possible air ventilation/gaps. So I now changed two things since last time:

• I cleaned away every tiny bit of the left glue of the old gasket. To make sure the whole surface is smooth and straight.
• I placed brand new foam (original B&O, placement according to B&O instruction).

Also, I checked the bad woofers by gently pushing them down in the middel, and feel if there was any scratchy feeling? > There is no scratchy feeling or noise.

Result: Happy that I can say that the bad vibrations are gone. Just one remark about that. I have played a list of songs with a bit more heavy and low bass tones. All play well, but only one song keeps disturbing me a bit: Coldplay with Magic. Still, in the first part of the song, the vibration can be heard when the kick drum comes in. But the effect is much less than before, and only at high volume (75% or up). Maybe it is in the song.

 

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Thanks for your input Christian!

Interesting remarks you made. Especially the air ventilation triggered me. So I now changed two things since last time:

• I cleaned away every tiny bit of the left glue of the old gasket. To make sure the whole surface is smooth and straight.
• I placed brand new foam (original B&O, placement according to B&O instruction).

Result: Happy that I can say that the bad vibrations are gone. Just one remark about that. I have played a list of songs with a bit more heavy and low bass tones. All play well, but only one song keeps disturbing me a bit: Coldplay with Magic. Still, in the first part of the song, the vibration can be heard when the kick drum comes in. But the effect is much less than before, and only at high volume (75% or up). Maybe it is in the song.

 

Your questions

• Did you crosscheck the”bad” woofers in the”good” speaker set? > Yes, the so-called bad woofers did well in the ‘good’ speaker set.
• If you push gently the bad woofers is there any scratchy feeling? > There is no scratchy feeling or noise.

 

Question to you

• What kind of material do you use for the gasket?

(share a link if you can)

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Thanks BeoBuddy !

I agree on the ‘brittleness’. The material all over is quite vulnerable after all these years. After it happened with one screw, I put just a bit of WD40 in the other screw holes. Keeping the screw vertical and screwing slowly works quite well. Anyhow, if one screws slowly without too much of resistance, it works well.

For all other cases, it is indeed better to create new brackets/stands. I think I might also do this on my 3D printer.

===

By the way, did you see my PM to you?

 

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Excuse me for dropping in, I certainly do not want to hijack this topic.

I also have an issue with the woofer drivers of BeoLab 8000. Though I think it is not a scratching noise. In my case I have a vibration that sounds like there is something loose or damaged in the driver. I have just added my topic to the forum right here.

Can you please have a look at this and comment if you recognize this?

Thnx in advance!

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

What exactly do you want to know?

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Hi @Beauvais762

I haven’t worked with Penta’s myself, but I remember reading about issues with them. There’s a lot of info on the forum. Especially in the ‘archived forum’. Though I am currently experiencing errors accessing the archived forum. Probably a temporary issue.

One of the threads that might interesting is this one: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/31993/259129.aspx#259129

I remember that some of the issues with the display can be solved by replacing a capacitor on the display PCB.

Hope this helps a bit.

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

ISSUES SOLVED !

Thnx for your remarks @matador & @lesbart.

I have been cleaning the two prism sensors already at the beginning, and as described in the Service Manual. (See my first post in this thread, point 3)

Anyhow, I have been able to find out what to do. I was still in the process of re-assembling the unit. The glass door had not yet been put back. After doing that, the ‘CLEANING REQUIRED’ message was gone. Obviously quite logical.

Thanks again for thinking with me. All issues are now solved.

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Update

Today I received the replacement Laser Pick-Up for the BeoSound 9000, and placed it.
And the good news is, it works again!

So after all checks, tests and cleaning of lenses and mirror, it was the laser unit that did not function well.

My gratitude goes to Ralf Gerner of Gerner Electronics / Lasertrader.de who helped me pick the correct replacement parts. Great service and quick shipment.

Still one issue?

As said the BS9000 plays CD’s again, though one thing still disturbs me. Just before it starts playing the selected CD, the display shows the message ‘CLEANING REQUIRED’.

It surprises me, since the whole Laser/lenses/mirror is completely new and clean.

Questions

1. Is this maybe an old notification that has to be reset?
2. If so, how do I do that?

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Send him a PM via BeoWorld. Search by ‘beobuddy’ and you will find him.

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Ok. Do you know BeoBuddy?

Maybe you can try if he can.

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

I can recommend BeoLover, he has a lot of experience in repairing and restoring BeoGrams.

Check his website for contact details:

https://beolover.com

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

@Carljh

Thanks for this info.

I have a BeoLab 8000 that also has a problem when connected via RCA.

It sometimes does switch on (mostly not), but only when I put the input volume high.

Question

• Could this also be caused by a bad IC1?

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

I think @marexy means the ‘relay’.

@marexy: which caps do you consider suspicious?

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Hi Peter, no issues with the type of foam in your speakers.

BeoLab 8000 MK I has the improved type of foam, much better resistant to temperatures caused by the internal amplifier and PSU.

So, no problem.

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Thnx again @Matador !

I have checken my module and found it has no such connector. Though very interesting to know that this issue can be solved by reflowing on the MK III version.

Since I have done so many checks, tests and cleaning without the wished for result, I have decided to order the replacement laser/mirror/lenses module. I will return after I have received, placed and tested it with my results.

To be continued and thans for ‘travelling’ with me!

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Thnx again @Matador !

Do you know, is there any check I can make, in which:

The laser should be on, and in which I should be able to see it?

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Update further testing & checking

In TestMode I now also checked:

#61 Focus ON = CD FOCUS ON = OK
#62 Focus OFF = CD FOCUS OFF = OK
#63 Start of CD turntable motor = TURNTBL ON works but a lot of noise.
#64 Stop of CD turntable motor = TURNTBL OFF works but a lot of noise.
#65 Laser arm is moved to extreme outside position = LIGHTPEN OUT = OK
#66 Laser arm is moved towards the centre = LIGHTPEN IN = OK
#67 Starting the CD = CD ERROR 2 = Focus error, it has not been possible to find focus.

 

So …
At least I know the motor works fine, and the laser arm makes the correct movements.
Starting the CD keeps showing ‘CD ERROR 2’ so still the focus error.

In the Service Manual I read that when in TestMode #65 (lighten in outside position), the light pen can be seen. when test mode 65 is executed.

Question

• Does the service manual remark ‘in TestMode #65 the light pen can be seen’ mean that I should be able to see the light of the laser?
• Because I don’t see any light coming from the laser in TestMode #65. If I should, then the laser is defect and needs replacement, right?

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Solution / cause found

The issue was caused by the left cover panel of the sledge. After re-assembling it, I did not put it back the right way. Causing it to be too high to make the sledge move all the way to the end at the 6th disc.
This cover panel has two clamps (see picture) that need to grasp on the edge of the PCB that it covers. If they are positioned right, everything fits well and the sledge can make the normal movements.

My advise for re-assembling after working on the BS9000 laser unit is to put this cover back, and then immediately hand-move the sledge all the way left and right (while the sledge is still unblocked). This prevents that you find out later and you have to disassemble and re-assemble again.

Location: The Netherlands

[KolfMAKER]

Thnx @Matador !

You are referring to the “orange part in the picture”.

Do you mean the orange PCB and its flatcable?

 

Location: The Netherlands

[Author]

Posts