KolfMAKER

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  • in reply to: BeoLab 3500: how to fix ML input selection? #34428
    KolfMAKER
    SILVER Member
      • The Netherlands

      Thank you all for responding and for your suggestions, great!

      At the moment I try to remain a bit stubborn (bear with me 😉

      The BeoLab 3500 is an electronics product, which ‘boots’ when turned on. When booting it sets for the standard settings. Like for instance basic volume level, LED brightness, etc.
      I assume it also sets for a standard audio source/port. So my idea (I still hope it is not a fantasy) is for instance to re-program the settings that get loaded while booting. And by that, set the DIN-connection as standard audio source to ON.

       

      Some products have the ability to change the firmware, or hack it.
      I am curious if anyone has ideas about that.

      in reply to: Beolab20 Bass issues #33755
      KolfMAKER
      SILVER Member
        • The Netherlands

        If you like to read into this topic, here’s an article about B&O’s ABL. It describes that ABL is not just one system, it has evolved with new speaker systems. But there’s hopefully something you will learn form it:

        B&O Tech: What is “ABL”?

        in reply to: Beolab20 Bass issues #33752
        KolfMAKER
        SILVER Member
          • The Netherlands

          As far as I know, ABL was mainly developed to lift the ‘presence’ of bass in the lower volumes.
          So I think that relatively seen, it does not boost bass in the higher volumes.

           

          Probably there are other forum members who know more about ABL. Please comment.

          in reply to: Beolab 8000 preventive care. #33698
          KolfMAKER
          SILVER Member
            • The Netherlands

            Don’t worry about de-attaching the front panels and the glue strips holding them.
            Obviously, you will first have to remove all screws. After that, the glue strips will hold the speaker driver panel and the PSU/AMP panel in place. The glue strips function as gaskets.

            Nevertheless you can push a flat hand screw driver (actually & literally with a flat head), just underneath the panel, and push it up a bit. Do it slow, and as soon as it comes a Biot loose, move the flat head down a few centimeters, and so on.

            “In the meantime do you know if not using them will slow down the process (less heat) or as this nothing to do?”

            The heat inside the cabinet makes the foam deform. As Long as you do not use them, the process will of foam rot will not continue. Be aware though that the damage might already have been done. Some times, some of the copper tracks on the PSU PCB are eaten away. And sometimes that’s even hard to see with the eye. But this is easy to solve with some by-pass wires.

            in reply to: Beolab 8000 preventive care. #33696
            KolfMAKER
            SILVER Member
              • The Netherlands

              Hi Matador,

              Foam rot is a serious thing as it can damage the pcb and electronics, causing malfunction, etc.

              I am not completely sure about which serial number has the improved foam, but I think 12xx xxxx might still have the old foam.

              My advise for proper action is not to apply self cut pieces of plastic. This will not help, because when foam rot is there, it is already damaging the pcb and components. The only way is removing the old foam and thoroughly cleaning the pcb and components.

               

               

               

              in reply to: The BeoWorld Spring 2022 Prize Draw !!! #33720
              KolfMAKER
              SILVER Member
                • The Netherlands

                Great & excited!

                in reply to: BeoVox S80: which glue for mid-tone driver repair? #33682
                KolfMAKER
                SILVER Member
                  • The Netherlands

                  Thanks very much for this suggestion Christian. Very helpful to know!

                  At the moment, I am quite sure I will be able to get the mid-tone driver alive and well again. So I will proceed to find the appropriate glue for attaching the dome back to the tape on the metal ring of the mid-tone driver.

                  If you have an advice about the right type of glue, I am open to hear.

                Viewing 7 posts - 221 through 227 (of 227 total)