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The grey plug/socket is a loop through which enables you to add external tone control – it is of no use here and the grey plug should be inserted for the unit to play correctly.
The Tape 2 ‘line in’ phono/cinch/rca sockets are the next two along – left and then right. They should be labelled on the rear edge (behind the connection in your picture).
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Maybe have a read of this thread so that you know the location of the sensors (it’s a bit confusing to read to the end): https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosystem-2300-where-is-the-motion-sensor-for-the-doors-located/
But it is strange that they should suddenly stop working! Are you sure that the problem is not mechanical – no sound whatsoever from the motor? Have you tired gently pulling the glass apart whilst waving hands in front?
Any strange new electronic devices in the room – plasma TV, strange wavelength lighting? Maybe re-position the speakers further away from the BC2300. Are the speakers BeoLab 3 by any chance?
Are you sure that it’s a BC2300 – check the label on the rear? The newer BS3000/3200 had a setting where the doors could be locked to prevent unwanted tampering.
I nothing above helps, it may be time to strip the system down and look for internal faults suck as jammed mechanism or faulty drive belt or door motor. The service manual is available on the site for Silver/Gold members.
EDIT: This is why I asked about Beolab 3: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/32921.aspx
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The BeoCom 2 that was the subject of my original post in this thread had some problems:
- I have recently changed my BC6000 setup and am now using a Beoline EU Mk2 rather than the older ‘pyramid’ PSTN base. The Beoline works fine with the BC6000s (Mk2s) but although the BeoCom 2 will connect and operate (including access to ‘common’ phonebook), it will not update the time and the handset name does not show on the other (BC6000) handsets. I think that this is because it’s a BeoCom 2 Mk1.
- After being used for a while, the LCD display on the BeoCom 2 fades to nothing – the only way I can get it back is to cycle the phone off and on again – it’s not really practical for reliable use. A new display is £75 so I don’t really want o go down the replacement route.
- The rubber on the BeoCom 2 table charger has perished to the extent that the charger has crumbled into several pieces – it is no longer useable!
Anyway, last week I purchased a ‘spares or repair’ bundle including Beocom 2, table charger and Beoline EU for a total of £35. I bought it primarily for the table charger which looked to be in fairly good condition, apart from a few marks, hence one of the above problems is sorted.
The ‘new to me’ Beocom 2 was a very scruffy, scratched white version with very faded buttons and scratches on the screen surround, but I was pleased to see that it is the newer Mk2 version (see here for differences). I changed the battery and it burst into life and worked perfectly, including full compatibility with my Beoline base! I therefore stripped it down and put the innards in the silver ‘better condition’ case. I also swapped over the keypad buttons and screen surround, and now have a quite presentable fully working BeoCom 2 Mk2: (it looks white in the picture but is the silver one)
I then turned to the Beoline – when connected to the mains the light didn’t even come on so I suspected a power problem. The plug-in adaptor was a sealed unit so I took apart the Beoline itself to check for power at that end. There was one small screw to undo and then it prised apart – I managed to break every clip in the process so I will have to glue it back together but never mind! Here’s it disassembled, and for interest I have circled in red a little port that is usually covered by the little rubber blank that you can also see; I assume this hidden connection if for dealers to carry out SW updates etc.
Anyway there was no power getting to the Beoline, so first I attempted to dismantle the PSU using a selection of destructive tools …
But as expected that was an impossible task, so I cut the cable, found a 5.5V BC6000 charger PSU and bodged a quick connection to test the Beoline:
I connected the Beoline to my phone line, powered it up, registered the Beocom 2 and it works perfectly!
Although it’s been quite satisfying playing around with the two phones, I am not sure that I would recommend Beocom 2 repair – it’s quite tricky to take apart so hopefully mine will stay working for a while now!
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Sorry but that’s the only battery reset procedure that I know – I think it may work for both Mk1 and Mk2 models.
You could also try resetting the handset – make a note of any stored numbers first. You may also want to be sure that your PSTN base does not have a pincode set.
If it’s a Mk1 (dot button to the left of the circular wheel), press (dot) then 70009
If it’s a Mk2 (INT button to the left of the circular wheel), enter the service menu by pressing: 9#9#9✱INT then scroll to ‘reset handset’ and press centre button.
You will have to re-register with the PSTN base after a handset reset, which may need a pincode as mentioned above. Default is 0000.
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Assuming it’s a BeoCom 6000 Mk2, on changing the battery you should press: 9#9#9✱655 OK
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I just noticed that the new screen (on the right) is a different colour, but clearer (especially when viewed from the side). All three have the contrast set to 04.
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I revisited the faulty Beo4 today. I tried to get away with just cleaning the contact points where the foil is clipped to the PCB, but I couldn’t get it to work reliably so I ended up fitting a contact foil that had been removed from another remote.
Whilst testing I used the following useful picture/diagram to test the remote and prove that it was the contact foil at fault. I got the diagram from one of Peter Pan’s excellent threads on the hifi4all forum here: https://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=78664&PN=1&TPN=9
(there are a few of my Beoworld photos in Peter’s thread so I guess that’s a fair swap of copyright, but the diagram may have originated elsewhere because Peter usually annotated his work in Danish)
As before, I’ll be leaving the Beo4 powered up overnight to see if it still works in the morning!
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There may be a Beo4 SW version that will show both PHONO and N.RADIO – possibly one of the early Mk2s (SAT, DVD version) that was introduced in the early days of N.RADIO.
I am quoting myself from a while back, however I just realised that the Beo4 that I am fixing has both PHONO and N.RADIO (i.e same IR command with two names) available to be added to the LIST button – it’s a Mk2 SAT, DVD version at EE: 6.0 and SW:5.00
(Not relevant to this thread but on a similar note, it also has both A.TAPE2 and N.MUSIC available to be added to LIST.)
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Great solution. With Win 7 you can probably also run the useful Product Configuration Guide, available on site at the bottom of this page: https://beoworld.org/beotech/reference-manuals-beotech/
If you click on the ‘view’ button it downloads the executable file – I’m not sure which version works! I never got it to work on Win10.
(Having got rid of my older laptops, I usually run it from a VM)
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My Playmaker let out the magic dmoke one day. Turned out it was one of the filter caps in the power supply that exploded It smelled a lot like smoke and the smell was not gone before a week. I can still smell something inside it. Today I replaced both filter caps snd it looks like it is running again
I have a BeoCord 6000 (VHS) that did exactly that while my wife was watching a video – there was a loud shriek as smoke poured into the living room! The smell just never went away so rather than replace the capacitor I simply took it to the recycling centre and replaced with a V8000 from my ‘store’. It’s not like me to dispose of something repairable, and I regret it to this day.
Whilst on the topic of the thread, I did find time to ‘refurb’ a couple of Beo4s yesterday, an AV and a SAT DVD version. I also did a quick audit of my B&O remote spares as you can see in the photo:
As I have said before, repairing Beo4s is not cost-effective: If you want to end up with a perfect screen, a keyboard that hasn’t had some of the rubber picked off (who would do that???!!!) and a battery cover with all the retaining lugs present then it’s a fool’s errand. In the past I have tried to fully restore every Beo4 that I come across but I can no longer get new DTV/DVD (non-navi) keyboards, so I may well start dismantling some for spares and swapping parts around more than I have in the past.
After fixing Beo4s I always leave them powered up overnight, and sure enough one of the two repaired ones had a fault that doesn’t appear immediately – the keyboard defaulted to DVD and then locked up after several hours. It’s probably a faulty contact foil, so I will replace that when I next have time.
Have a great weekend all! 😀
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Great Beocave @Madskp! I am very envious.
I would have commented earlier but I have been very busy domestically, including out looking for a new house in which to create a suitable Beocave! We have been renting now for nearly three years but our landlord recently passed away (died) and his widow has put our rental up for sale, so we may be forced to move. The simple option would be to buy this house but it is just missing that one extra room just for me and my stuff 😀
PS: All the other caves pictured above are equally inspiring!
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You haven’t said whether it’s the 1978 or 1985 version, but I just had a quick look in the Products library and the service manuals for both are there.
As a Silver Member you will be able to find them here: https://beoworld.org/products/beocenter/
Click on the correct model and then scroll down to the foot of the page to look for the service manual.
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One of the connectors is a 6 Pin DIN and the other on is a 5 pin, but with the pins in cross formation. Does anyone know what that could be for?
The 6-pin DIN matches the connection for the Beomaster 7000 external IR sensor, but I can’t recall any B&O applications for the 5-pin 270 degree DIN (wikipedia shows DIN 45327, or domino/dice arrangement)
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To do so I think that your TV will have to have an HDMI-ARC (audio return channel) socket so that it is both receiving and sending audio.
If it does have such a socket, you should be able to use an HDMI-ARC audio extractor. This one looks like it offers volume control through CEC on the ARC: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extractor-Converter-Support-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B08XV2B6T4?th=1
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Are you sure that the BS2000/Century does not provide an AUX output in the same way as the BS4000? The service manual is a bit confusing, because the connections summary (page 1-2) shows NC (no connection) for aux output pins 1 and 4, whereas if you look at the circuit diagram (page 2-19) it shows pins 1 and 4 connected as an AUX output. Worth testing.
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Earlier today I noticed that the B&O Store in Bicester Village were offering new/boxed/warranted Beoplay M3s for half price – £140. I happened to be passing so I popped in to buy one. They only have the grey version (sold out of black), but there are a few more in stock and they expect another 30 tomorrow.
Other offers include Beoplay M5 for £275 – full list of offers here (scroll down past the ‘refurbished’ section): https://www.thebicestercollection.com/bicester-village/en/brands/bang-and-olufsen/
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Great information – many thanks for starting the thread and posting the data above!
My BC9500 works the same as BC2300 – turns Passive* on/off but no muting – see here . I haven’t driving MCL, nor have I tried the modified (pin 4 to 1) PL lead but will do so next time my BC9500 is set up.
My Essence Mk2 turns Passive on fine – fully wired RJ45 PL lead used. Hopefully @CharlieWednesday is testing MCL compatibility.
* EDIT: Was actually tested with MCL2P.
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You could try using an RJ45 to RJ45 cable to connect the Playmaker directly to your router, which should allow you to find it and set up further.
That what also what I had to do when I setup mine last year. As far as I remember you can select the wireless network to connect to from the webinterface when you get acces to it from the cabled network.
Yes that rings a bell with me. Although I am not sure of its relevance here, the Mk1 Playmaker had to be connected hardwired to carry out firmware upgrade, whereas the Mk2 could do so over the wireless network.
Playmaker mark1 = type number 2930 – 2931
Playmaker mark2 = type number 2970 – 2971
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If blinking white then the Playmaker is still searching for your network.
You could try using an RJ45 to RJ45 cable to connect the Playmaker directly to your router, which should allow you to find it and set up further.
From experience, the Playmaker has never been particularly reliable when connected wirelessly, so if possible try to use it hard-wired to your network.
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Great news about the Win11 music now being visible!
One annoyance for me – when you view an album in the B&O app, it show the tracks in alphabetic order according to track title, rather than by track order. That’s just rubbish!
I have the same problem but am not at all sure about the cause. I thought it was a limitation of my NAS server because I think it also happens on other music ‘clients’ (eg apps on Apple TV) – it could perhaps be linked to the way the tracks were ripped, or the music library organisation/indexation – more investigation needed!
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