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… but both the Essence (pref Mk2) and NL/ML Converter have powerlink outputs and either could act as a ‘hub’, depending on what you are hoping to achieve.
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Maybe you could buy a non working BM3500 and use that as the donor for your Beomaster?
The danger is that you then end up fixing the ‘donor’, still need a glass panel and the search goes on for a third … 😀
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The line-in ‘fix sound level’ only fixes the volume for that source. You can still use the app to control the volume of other Essence sources.
(As opposed to the separate check box for fixing the line out level)
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I just amended the attachment/photo slightly to reflect the fact that on the Essence there is actually a short (3-4 second) delay before the voltages on pins 4&5 drop (whilst the music fades out).
I am leaving the Essence/Passive set up for a few days to see if I experience any longer term problems using a fully wired RJ45 to PL lead.
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Hi alf!
I’m just ‘bumping’ your thread up again because I too am surprised that no one is able to suggest a fix! It must be a very rare fault indeed.
I have a Beogram 6500 (a Beoworld Prize Draw win!) but it’s working perfectly (or at lease was when I last used it some time ago!). I tend to follow most threads for equipment that I own, because I know that it is only a matter of time before I have to attempt repairs myself.
Anyway, hopefully someone can chip in with a repair suggestion.
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I want to check posting images, hence here is a schematic from PeterPan showing the connection that you require into the BL1611’s AAL socket:
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I use – for an older Philips 32” tv in a guestroom – an ARC Extractor with an Essence MK2 (line-in) and a set of BL3. Works, but volume control is a bit fiddly. The tv volume has to be set high…..if I want it louder, I have to use the Essence Remote (or the app).
While experimenting with line-in on my Essence I have noticed that the line-in level is very low compared to the other inputs. I have tried connecting both PC and iPhone, and both need their volume set to max in order to get reasonable volume output from the Essence – obviously then controllable with the app.
You can of course go into the Essence menu and set the line-in source at a fixed high level (check box for ‘Fix sound level’) , but then you can’t use the app to control line-in volume, instead having to control the volume of the source (TV, PC, iPhone etc).
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Thanks @pepps. Strange that inserting a photo is still not working but I will investigate.
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Yes, for many people that will be a better solution than an arc audio extractor followed by something to trigger powerlink. I will try to remember to suggest as an option when answering forum questions.
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Strange – I have tried inserting it again, but if that doesn’t work, here it is as an attachment:
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Those who are in need of a HDMI/ARC box may have a look on the solution from OneRemote.
That looks useful – thanks for posting. Is it new?
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Check that the volume output of your PC is set at max. and maybe check the output with separate headphones also.
Also, your 3.5mm to DIN lead could be an input at the (wrong) 3.5mm end. You need one that sends the 3.5mm signal to DIN pins 3 and 5 (not 1 and 4).
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so maybe you could try to insert it again?
Done 😀
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Firstly, the only connection between the BM5 and the BL1611 should be a masterlink cable. You should not connect anything to the BL1611’s Powerlink socket. Your speakers should remain connected to your BM5.
Hopefully your 3.5mm to DIN cable is supplying audio to DIN pins 3 and 5.
Your BS5 should be in A.OPT 2, so that it will accept Video sources. I think that this is somewhere in the BS5’s settings menu – you need to change the ‘AM’ (Audiomaster) setting to Option 2.
You should then be able to select your PC as an input by choosing any Video option on the remote (eg TV, V.MEM, DVD) – you cannot select using A.AUX.
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Sorry, one other observation: When the Essence Mk2 was connected to the Passive, if I then used my little adaptor to route the Essence RJ45 pin 4 to the Passive’s PL pin 1 then there was a distinct ‘pop’ from the speakers when the Passive was activated. The ‘pop’ didn’t occur when the straight-through, fully wired RJ45 to PL cable was used.
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Here we go – all pin voltages are approximate and were tested while Beolink Passive was connected:
The only real surprise* from my limited testing above is for the NL/ML Converter and the fact that the Passive does not switch off reliably with the fully wired RJ45 to PL cable, due to the voltage remaining at the Passive’s PL pin 1 for a period (a few seconds to a few minutes). I used my little adaptor to move RJ45 pin 4 to pin 5 and it switched off reliably straight away.
* EDIT: I shouldn’t really have been surprised because you noted this delay in Note 4 of your table at the first post!!! 😀
No such problems with the Essence but I haven’t conducted a long term test.
I suspect that the Core behaves like the NL/ML Converter hence the requirement for a modified cable.
Finally, I didn’t really explore ‘muting’ for the Essence or NL/ML Converter – I think these mute internally rather than switching the amp off but cannot be sure how it would behave if for example the Essence was supplying a source to a linked NL device in another room. To be honest there are so many settings in the NL devices (integrated versus linked, local sources, etc) that it becomes confusing and is difficult to be sure what you are testing!
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@Guy have you used the MCL2P with the Essence over a longer period of time?
Not really for a longer sustained period (like Steve suggests), but I have often used my Essence to power a Passive with a fully wired PL to RJ45, and never experienced problems turning on or off.
In support of that other thread, I did some quick comparisons today between the Pin 1 and 4 PL outputs on BeoCenter 2300, Essence Mk 2 and NL/ML Converter (obviously looking at RJ45 pins 5 and 4 respectively on the latter two). Let me just make up a table of the results and I will post back here. Might have to do a jpg as I can’t remember how to post a table!
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One additional thought about your setup: If you are indeed using the Essence line-in for your TV sound input (from your hdmi arc extractor), then you will have to go into the Essence setup menu, go to the ‘Sound’, ‘Line-In’ setting and tick the little check box to ‘disable delay’.
The little note above the ‘disable delay’ box explains why you need to do this as follows: Sound from line-In connected sources is delayed in a Multiroom system. Therefore, when used with video content, picture and sound is not synchronized. The delay can be disabled, but sound from line-in can then not be distributed.
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You should be fine with the following cable from one of the Essence’s RJ45 powerlink outputs to the BeoLab 7-2 Powerlink input, but please double check with Steve (at Sounds Heavenly) before ordering: https://soundsheavenly.com/bang-olufsen/31-325-rj45-to-powerlink-compatible-all-in-one-cable-convert-new-2013-ethernet-powerlink-to-traditional-8-pin-din-powerlink.html#/9-length-18m
(My understanding is that the BeoLab 7-2 triggers on/off from Powerlink pin 4, in which case the above cable should work fine.)
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Many thanks Steve – that’s all useful to know and will hopefully help Christian if he decides to go down the Passive route!
But back to his questions …
Every cheap ceiling speaker will do Correct?
I suppose so, but if you are going to the trouble of cutting holes in your ceilings then it’s worth investing in a decent product. B&O did make some Passive ceiling speakers (search for Beovox 1 and 2) and even an in-wall speaker (IWS2000), but other makes will probably sound equally good and there will be a better selection available. Again, worth trialling with a Passive before committing to a big spend!
Are there any active ceiling speakers you are aware of, so that I can skip the Amplifier? My understanding is, no, as they would also need to speak “Powerlink”
Not that I am aware of from B&O, but if you were happy with the aesthetics your could mount Beolab 4000s up in the corners of your rooms – there are wall brackets available.
If I have multiple Speakers (say 2 as stereo pair in the kitchen, maybe 1 in the guest toilette and maybe 2 in the dining room, I would need several “main components”, see above. There is no solution where I can have only one “main component” like a Beoconnect Core and drive 3 areas independently, correct?
Ideally you want an NL-capable ‘main component’ (Essence Mk2, Core etc) per room – I think that this is the only way to get true independent operation with control from the B&O app. You could maybe get away with an NL/ML Converter in one of the rooms as this has a Powerlink output and should be able to play sources from other NL devices.
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