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You want the Beogram output DIN pins 3 and 5 to go to RCA Left and Right respectively. Pin 2 is ground.
But if you are making your own lead and only have a 5 pin DIN socket you will need to removed DIN pins 6 and 7 (they unscrew).
EDIT: Pin numbers looking into a 7-pin DIN socket (or looking at solder side of DIN plug):
I would be tempted to purchase one of these ready made leads from our site sponsor: https://soundsheavenly.com/beogram-record-players/14-2244-beogram-to-non-bo-device-phono-pre-amp-receiver-amplifier-etc-bo-ref-.html#/2-length-1m/60-grounding-internal_ground_link
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Thanks for bringing this useful thread to the new forum – I have referred to it several times both to answer other users questions and to remind myself of the siri remote capabilities.
First thing that happened when I touched the home button on the Siri remote was that the Beoplay V1 switched to source TV (their apple TV is on V.MEM). I tried again a couple of times and the same thing happened. When I covered the IR eye on the Siri remote this did not happen, so it seems that the IR control with B&O remote codes are back in the 3rd gen Siri remote.
One quick question: When you say ‘3rd Gen siri remote’, do you mean the very latest version with the USB-C charging port (rather than the second generation with the lightning port?) Wiki says they are identical other than the charging port, but as we know there may be hidden SW changes! See wiki here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siri_Remote
(Looking at that wiki naming convention – we may need to rename the ‘2.gen’ siri remote in your picture as Gen 1.1 . They call the new shape (with Lightning) siri remote Gen 2)
I have been quite happy with my Apple TV HD with 1st gen (no white circle) siri remote with my BV10-32. I would like to be able to bring up the Control Center but can’t do so as there is no way to ‘press and hold the TV button – but I think my PUC may be an older Apple TV version.
My only reason for updating to the latest Apple TV 4K may be to make use of the onscreen FaceTime capability that was introduced with the last tvOS. It doesn’t work with the older HD version.
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You could try the BC9500’s AUX/TV input as well – I think that may be a different level (but could possibly be quieter).
Also, when you were using the BC9500’s PHONO input I would expect you to have the turntable’s switch set to PHONO also – did you try this?
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I assume from the earlier posts that you are currently using the BC9500’s PHONO input with the turntable’s switch set to PHONO.
As an experiment, try using the BC9500’s TAPE2 input with the turntable switch set to LINE. Select with TAPE2 on the BC9500 control panel.
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I assume that your phones are connected via a modem/router – have you tried restarting it and/or checking that the firmware is up to date?
The you could try disconnecting all the phones and BeoTalk, and then trying them one-by-one to see if CLIP works individually. Perhaps one of them is supressing the CLIP signal.
You could also try a reset of the BC6000 handset and/or its base: (make sure that you have backed up phone contacts if they are stored on the base):
– Reset base: Press (dot) 7 000 8
– Reset handset: Press (dot) 7 000 9
You could also try replacing the batteries in the BC2500s.
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I can’t find anything on the archived forums about BeoVox 3000 placement, but there are a couple of threads about the larger BeoVox 5000s that may be of use:
https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/35195/292422.aspx
https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/16719/123732.aspx
Personally I would try to position with the Beovox’s tweeters at approx listening (ear?) height and conduct some experimentation with the distance from the corners, whilst aiming for a approx equilateral triangle between listening position and the two speakers.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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The simplest/cheapest way to input non-B&O analogue sources into your ML system could be the addition of a single Beolink Converter 1611 in place of the removed multi-CD player (presumably a BS9000). The Beolink Converter 1611 will effectively act as an ‘ML master’.
Here’s the basic setup (diagram produced by Matador):
The diagram above shows the ML connection to a single BL3500, but there is no reason why the connection cannot be to a ML multi-room system as fitted to your property. If wired as shown, you should be able to select one of two analogue sources from each room and adjust sound settings such as volume.
And you can read all about it in this thread:
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/
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Some details are also on the main beoworld site: https://beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=300
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I have always found AVA services very helpful:https://www.avaservices.co.uk/
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I absolutely LOVE B&O, but this is unacceptable.
Given that the BS3200 may be up to 20 years old, and that the reasonable life expectancy of a HDD is approx 5-10 years, I tend to see such a failure as acceptable/expected. I generally replace my computer/NAS hard drives at the 5 year point to reduce the risk of data loss.
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Hi and welcome to the Forum!
Firstly well-done on attempting the backlight repair! I have carried out a similar disassembly on a Samsung TV but I am impressed that you have delved inside a BV Horizon.
I don’t have a BV Horizon but I wondered if you have tried controlling via the network connection. As far as I know, if you connect the TV by RJ45 to your router you may be able to use the B&O app on a smartphone to control the TV. It’s a long-shot but I think I remember others suggesting similar in the past.
If that doesn’t work, hopefully someone else who actually owns a BV Horizon will be along later to suggest another fix or re-flash the firmware/software.
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As for the SHARC-V2 8k eARC Audio Processor – I don’t get it how it is connected to the Beomaster 6500 in that thread – it has a HDMI output, so this would require another ARC to RCA converter – or do I miss something here?
It does have an analogue output – actually shown as a headphone output. The analogue output is discussed in more detail here:
https://www.thenaudio.com/2021/12/05/sharc-v2-earc-processor/
It could be worth contacting the company to describe your setup and see if they have any suggestions. The OP from that other thread had a good response from them.
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This seems related to an earlier problem: The older Beo4 PUC IR STB controller was unable to open the Apple TV Control Centre because there was no way of ‘pressing and holding the TV button’. The PUC table in my BV10-32 is however quite old, and I can’t remember if this was fixed in later releases (maybe in conjunction with Beo4 Navi, which I don’t use).
It’s especially frustrating since Apple have just added extra functionality to the Control Center with tvOS17.
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Are you extracting the analogue audio from eARC? If so, have you considered an extractor which varies the output as discussed in this thread?
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/sound-control-from-lg-tv-to-beomaster-6500-not-possible/
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I just fixed the formatting for you. Yes it’s a bit tricky to use on phones – if I have to use a phone I tend to hold in landscape position whilst formatting.
Do you have the service manual for the BG4500? It’s available on site for Silver and Gold members. I think that people have removed or by-passed the internal pre-amp in the past and it would be worth searching the archived forums for info.
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Do you think this would work? Is the only thing I can find for now .
No that would not work with the Beocom 1. Take the 2nd to 5th numbers after ‘B&O’ on the label, which gives a Type Number of 0977. This falls into the second column of the compatibility table, showing that it will not work with BeoCom 1.
How do you like the “banana” phones?
I think that’s the only one I don’t own, which is a shame as it’s iconic!
But nothing from Europe will work correct?
Not unless it’s a Beoline US! I would keep looking for a BeoLine US with one of the Type numbers listed in the fifth column of the table.
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An interesting ‘mash up’ of a BeoCenter 2000 from an eBay shop aptly named ‘all sorts’:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/235178702242
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What if I located a BeoCom 1 [ bace ] ( if I can find one) and run that along side the other US spec bace B&O 6000 , and left the charger in the bedroom.?
Yes that should work, provided that the US telephone landline system will support two phones on one line (I see no reason why not.) The BeoCom1 ‘base’ that you require is actually called a BeoLine US, like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/295880603514 Hopefully you can find a second-hand (used) one cheaper in the US. The BeoLine US Type Numbers are in that earlier table, so you can check that you are buying the correct one. (That eBay one is Type 0841).
Question to you . Is it advisable to go through the steps and reset the base and then the handset for better performance does it clean up the functions or firmware of the phone?
In short, no. I would only carry out a reset if there were a problem that I was trying to resolve. This is especially the case with the older, original Mk1 BeoCom 6000s. It may only apply to the European versions, but some of these had a problem with the RF chip and lost the ability to re-connect to a base.
What if anything do you like to do with these old phones that are so darn good but of course not made anymore, not that I can afford (new ) one now. To make them keep operating or operate better.
All of my (30+) BeoCom phones are still useable in UK, but if not connected or used perhaps a display shelf of objet d’art:
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I have never seen a problem with door vertical alignment mentioned on the forum!
If the little brackets are undamaged (i.e not bent) and glued to the door glass in the correct (symmetrical) positions, I would double check that you have assembled the BC2500 correctly. Cable tension may be an issue, but I would expect this to affect both doors as there is only one cable.
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Have a look at this old thread for detailed instructions with pictures: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/4707/42777.aspx#42777
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