Forum Replies Created
-
Amazon!, 5 pack, here tomorrow
With PCB pins? (Or does the Ouverture battery simply slide in without soldering required?)
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Guy, strangely, I have a dead BC9300 here, I had proposed spares or repair for it, so it is looking like spares currently!
What’s wrong with it? That also has a CR2450 lithium battery which may need replacement.
And here’s a potential source for the battery – I have replaced one in a BC9500: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/cell-lithium-button-2pin-3v/dp/1319731?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
I did all this as you said today and for the moment everything seems to be working perfectly. I’ll wait a little bit to be sure that everything is in order and i’ll note the thread as solved.
Great news – hopefully it will stay working. One further thing that I have just remembered is that sometimes it can be worth leaving a remote disassembled for a couple of days (i.e all six nuts/bolts undone and pulled apart) to allow the contact foil ‘poppers’ to return to an uncompressed (normal) state.
I got a Beo4 Navi where the lowest part of the remote doesn’t feel right. I have cleaned it and everything seems perfect before reassembling. I’ll try loosening the nuts.
There’s nothing quite like the nice ‘click’ or ‘pop’ you feel when pressing any button on a brand new Beo4 remote! Sometimes it’s quite difficult to replicate. When replacing the contact foil you can usually tighten the nuts a bit more and you do manage to replicate that ‘as new’ feeling. You can also get away with having the PCB nuts quite loose because the design of the Beo4 still allows you to ‘pull’ the top plate (and rubber keyboard) downwards and flush with the black casing when re-assembling and tightening the 4 screws on the back.
I do wonder what the official B&O guidance is for Beo4 keyboard nut tightening! ?
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Here’s a couple of photos:
Firstly to show the amount that I tighten the nuts! (middle two circled ):
(You can also see the little clip on the right edge of the PCB)
And to show the foil part no:
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Are you sure that the 6 hexagonal nuts that hold the PCB to the front plate are not simply too tight – this would cause the problem that you describe. I usually tighten then just enough that the screw thread is just starting to emerge above the nut.
Failing that, you could try removing the little clip at the foot of the remote – this holds the foil to the PCB and ensures a good electrical contact – maybe clean underneath with Isopropyl Alcohol.
Failing that you could try removing the foil but they are sometimes very strongly stuck and hence damage is likely.
Which version of the Beo4 is it? What are the second row of buttons from L to R?
Last time I bought new foils they were approx £15 from here: https://www.avaservices.co.uk/
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
It is a Delock 2 Port RJ45 Cat.6A LSA
Many thanks – looks much better quality than many available. I think this is the same box with different branding:
https://uk.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg08003/socket-surface-rj45-cat6-shield/dp/3402347
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
^ Very neat – what make/model is the little 2 port terminal box?
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
I use the box with a MacBook Pro 2017 and it works, but I can’t remote control it using a Beolink 1000.
I meant to add (but you probably know this) that SHIFT then STORE on the BL1000 is the way to send a PC command.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Thanks for the update and great news that you got it all working – I am sure that this will be useful to others. I am a big fan of the often-overlooked Passive.
Just for completeness, you referred to B&O’s Powerlink Mk2 RJ45 to 8-pin DIN cable so I thought I would post a pinout diagram of this cable here so that others can see exactly what is going on with the grey ‘power on/up’ wire:
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
I’m trying to use the same configuration you used with the vx sensor, and I wonder how you wired the sensor with the 3,5 jack.
Here’s the wiring that I used – click the photo to enlarge so that you can read the yellow note. I didn’t actually modify the VX sensor- it just plugged into the 3.5mm socket and worked. The same connections (with different wire colours) are used within the BeoSystem 3 sensor also. The adaptor that I made was to use the VX sensor with a Passive/Active.
But the lack of IR control may be down to the option settings in the LinkPlayer software. I don’t have experience of LinkPlayer but you may find some hints in the following thread where matador had a similar problem: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/playing-with-blink-pc2-and-beoport/
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Is there an easy why back to factory default or do i just delete everything and switch the unit off for a couple of days and then try again??
Part 4 of the Service Manual has a few things you can try: Part 5.1 to put in Service Mode and then Part 5.16 shows how to reset presets. You need test equipment to do anything more complex with the tuner.
EDIT: If you can find a ‘known frequency’ radio station, then you could try the ‘offset adjustment FM’ on page 5-2.
Manuals are here: https://www.beoworld.org/manuals_view.asp?pid=952
Alternatively, this may be the solution! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185810793476
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Does anyone know if the service manual is available if I upgrade my membership status?
Sadly it’s not in the library – we don’t appear to have many manuals from that era.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
this BC2300 is indeed paired with BL3s
Interesting! It would be great if you could do some experiments with the BL3s further away from the BC2300, or even unplugged, to see if the door problem goes away. I’d be interested to hear back.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
I will deregister the lot and start from scratch .
Good plan. Just make sure that you back up any stored phone numbers, and that you know the PIN to the base if there is one.
If your BC6000s are the Mk2 version (with the INT button) then you can also fully reset the base (or handset) from the Service Menu, accessed by pressing 9#9#9✱INT
And yes, PSTN Base = Beoline.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Thank you very much I bought the converter.
Great! Come back here if you need help setting it up. In the meantime, you may wish to look at this post (and the wider thread) about using the BL1611 converter: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/4/#post-14017
You’ll be able to substitute your BL2000 for the BL3500 in the diagram, and with the right input cable will be able to select two different sources using a remote. So you could have a Bluetooth receiver and a turntable, as an example.
Later in the same thread I tried my BL2000 with a BL1611 converter (I called it Test 4) and it worked well.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome back!
Have a read of this thread – the doors/sensors are basically the same as the BC2500 so there may be some common ground: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-2500-door-issue/
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Here’s one: https://www.quality-dream-audio.co.uk/beolink/15121730.html
I have no link to the company but have bought from them successfully in the past.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Do you mean to ask the difference between Beocom 2 Mk1 or Mk2? If so, have a look here: https://beoworld.org/faq_view.asp?id=94
I assume that the handsets are not registering with the PSTN base. Which PSTN base are you using? Don’t forget that even though you are only currently using 5 handsets, the base could have reached the maximum number of handsets that are registered to it. You should be able to check registered handsets in the BC6000 setup menu, for which you may need to check the user manual.
EDIT: But if you do indeed mean Beocom 1, then this is the US/Canada version of the BeoCom 6000, and will not register to a UK/EU PSTN base station.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
I recall that the buttons could not be reasigned , ie V aux -> dtv etc — is that correct?
On some newer TVs you can turnoff the internal tuner (digital and/or analogue) which ‘frees up’ the TV button to be assigned to another input. I don’t think this is possible on the BV7-32, but the DTV source should be selectable to be assigned to one of the inputs in the TV’s connections menu (i.e instead of V.AUX).
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
Q1: what is the power output at what ohm ?
Not sure!
Q2: how can it drive 4 mcl rooms ?
By taking an ML input and providing the speaker output as an input to an MCL2 distribution system – this is the purpose for which it was introduced (i.e: adding a new ML audiomaster to an existing MCL2 distribution system). The converter’s speaker sockets actually each have an extra pin to provide data and power according to the diagram here: https://www.beoworld.org/beotech/wiring1.htm They would then supply MCL2As (with IR eyes) in each MCL room/zone.
Q3: is it safe to use with a pair of 4 ohm speakers ?
Yes. If at all concerned just keep the volume at a slightly lower level initially.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
My B&O Icons:
