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(I am not sure why this is not as mentioned in the manual, but maybe a difference between MK1 and MK2 or something that has changed with an software update.)
The only significant difference that I know of is that the Mk1 had to be connected to router by RJ45 to update firmware (as mentioned in the Mk1 manual), whereas the Mk2 could apparently do so wirelessly.
I usually used the setup webpage (rather than the app) to set up my Mk1, and it was relatively straightforward. Although I don’t currently have the Playmaker in use, it is listed in my B&O app so this must have detected its presence in the past. I do remember experiencing connection/detection problems if I renamed the Playmaker and included an ‘&’ sign in the name – eg ‘B&O Playmaker’, but this may have been specific to the dnla streaming app I was using at the time (I didn’t have an iOS device when I first bought my Playmaker).
I do still have the ‘BeoSetup’ app (no longer avail) on my iPhone, and think I have used that with the Playmaker in the past. The app has slightly different setup instructions for PM Mk1 and Mk2 – the Mk1 has an orange flashing light when ready to connect to network, whereas the Mk2 has green.
@TWG I am happy to dig out my Mk1 Playmaker and test anything that may help with your problem – I’ll see what I can discover later in the week.Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
The Beolink Converter 1611 would not be any help in this setup. Masterlink audio connections need to be activated and controlled by B&O equipment at the ‘receiving’ end of the connection.
I assume that the BS4 and Denon amp are in the same room and that the BS4 has no other speakers connected?
I can see two options:
- Use Masterlink to connect the BS4 to a Beolink Active 1636 (and IR sensor – the ‘hockey puck’ type) co-located with the Denon amp. Then use a cable like this to connect the BL Active’s Powerlink output to the Denon amp’s aux input. If the BS4 and Denon amp are in the same room, put the BS4 in A.OPT 0 and remote control it through the BL Active’s IR sensor. You will have a double volume control situation, able to control volume with either the B&O remote or the Denon amp (but not via the volume buttons on the BS4).
- Re-purpose the wires in the masterlink cable either:
- To connect the BS4’s aux output to the Denon’s input. Aux output is fixed volume hence volume control would only be via the Denon.
- To connect the BS4’s Powerlink output to the Denon amp.
Original B&O masterlink cables are wired as in the following diagram, so you could chose appropriate wires and solder your own connections:
(EDIT: Unable to load image for some reason, hence added as attachement)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Haver you tried a handset reset? Press (dot) 7 000 9
Also (but you may have done this), after a battery replacement you are supposed to press 9#9#9✱655 OK
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi Roger and welcome to Beoworld!
The runners for the doors (especially at the bottom) may need cleaning and light lubrication – I would try this first.
In addition the door drive belt may need replacing, or the wires that move the doors may have come off their runners.
With the video in the thread above, plus some of the disassembly instructions in the following thread, you may be able to attempt a DIY repair: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/4707/42777.aspx#42777
If you need the Service Manual it is available on this site to Silver and Gold Members.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
But now it seems that to get a PUC code for Apple TV would cost way more than I paid for the Apple TV!?
Don’t forget that you can also teach an Apple TV to respond to another remote. Hence you can chose another device that is available in your TV’s PUC list (eg a Humax Set Top Box) and teach the Apple TV to recognise the IR commands. I used this technique with my BV6, and have written about this in the past on Beoworld. I should be able to find the thread together with some helpful hints if you are interested?
EDIT: Here’s the thread where I talked about my experiences and gave a handy hint about pressing some of the commands repeatedly and fast: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/46321/334962.aspx#334962
The DVB-HD does seem to be behaving itself so best left alone???
Yes probably, but you mentioned a ‘new menu in a foreign language’ – has that gone away?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Can anyone tell me if the BC9500 and BC8500 amplifiers are the same?
The 9500 and 8500 share the same service manual, so I just had a quick look through and can’t spot any highlighted differences on PCB60, but it’s probably worth a more thorough scrutiny.
I don’t think I’ll ever have use for the 2-way remote capability of the 9500.
There is one other useful feature of the 2-way remote capability, that doesn’t need a 2-way remote. The fact that the BC9500 can transmit (as well as receive) IR commands can be of use: You can use Beo4/BL1000 to transmit a LIGHT command from an MCL link room and the BC9500 will re-transmit this in the main room. I found this useful to relay LIGHT commands from an MCL link room to a Lightmanager Pro in the Main Room, which then controlled (by RF) lights back in the link room (or anywhere else in the house in RF range). The BC9500 has to be in A.OPT 1 or 2, and I did not try it from an ML link room (I didn’t have one). It’s a bit of a specific case and may not be of value in your setup, but worth mentioning.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Thanks for the assistance. I know there was a list of PUC codes on the TV previously as I stumbled apon them by accident a few times but it appears that now there is just “B&O test control” There are no others. How this could happen I have no idea?
Additionally a new menu has appeared down the left side of the screen in a foreign language on DTV despite English being selected. It seems to have a mind of it’s own?
That all sounds a bit strange! I would be tempted to go into the Service Menu and ‘Reset to factory settings’ to see if that has any effect – at your own risk of course!!
Given that there also appears to be a DTV problem, you could also try re-flashing the DVB-HD module software using the USB socket. I have copies of the latest SW for mine that I downloaded from B&O before it was removed from their support pages – file name is ‘9100357_SW_DVB_HD_MODULE_10_01.990.fpkg’ if that’s any use?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I have just spent 5 hours trying to find the PUC list on a BV10 to include apple TV.
Not sure that I can help with your other concerns, but on my BV10-32, when you go to the ‘connections’ menu and set up an input, if you populate the ‘IR SOCKET’ setting with ‘PUC 1’ (for example), once you press GO to store, the next screen is one where you can see the PUC list(s), and use the Left/Right arrows to move through the various PUC lists, (one for STBs, one for DVD players etc).
I hope this helps!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Yes that does look strange, but if there is a problem I am surprised that it passes all the Test Modes.
I look forward to hearing whether a new laser cures the fault. Fingers crossed!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Ah yes, sorry I can see that now when I read the whole manual!
B&O has had a habit in the past of making late modifications to PCBs by adding such components, but I doubt that they would do so for such a relatively modern element that should work as designed.
My most relevant CD repair experience is all detailed in this thread, but the CD on my BC2300 was CD Pro rather than CDM12: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-cd-not-working/#post-50375
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
just wondering because I have never seen anyone uses home number since 2008
Welcome to Beoworld!
The analogue phone network is still in use here in UK – switch off is delayed until at least January 2027 because of the number of vulnerable users who reply upon it for such things as personal/house alarms and telecare. I still use my BeoCom 6000s and Beocom 2 as a home phone (landline) because the mobile signal is intermittent where I live.
Even after analogue switch-off, I will continue to use my Beocoms as a landline with a VOIP adaptor.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I am not sure whether you have the service manual (avail on Beoworld to Silver and Gold Members), but the following extract may well explain the extra resistor and capacitor (Edit – possibly/probably another resistor?), and can I see a surface mounted diode (green LED?) in the second picture? Is pin 6 of 8IC1 still short circuited to ground? If so you may wish to revert and try again.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I can’t help with the overall problem, however I had a quick look at the Service Manual (avail on Beoworld to Silver and Gold members) and it would appear that you can change the voltage by re-wiring the transformer, and the tuner variant (Japan to USA) can be changed by cutting (or perhaps re-instating) certain jumpers on the tuner board.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I’m about to list some Atari 2600 consoles/games on eBay on behalf of a family member. It’s great to be able to activate the analogue tuner on my ‘retro’ BV10-32 and check that they work! 😀
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to our friendly forum! Hopefully we can help you get set up and connected.
To answer your question about which ML source should connect – it doesn’t matter! In a masterlink setup all the masterlinked components are connected in parallel – effectively they all share the same connections. If you have a spare socket on the distribution box then you can connect to the NL/ML converter from that.
I think that when you come to set up the NL/ML Converter, you will have to set it up as ‘Source Centre’ because you already have a Videomaster (the BV10) and an audiomaster (the BS3000) on your ML system. However, my experience on NL/ML Converters is quite limited so please have a read of the setup manual (do you have it?) and try to work out what is best for you. I am sure that other forum members will be able to advise further.
Good luck!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
The LCD display itself in mine fades to nothing over a couple of days and I have to re-boot the phone to restore it, but I can’t bring myself to investigate further as it’s too stressful a process!
Quoting myself, but I just wanted to say that, after several weeks of use (mostly sat on the charger) the LCD display in my BeoCom 2 no longer fades away as it did before. It seems that many B&O faults seem to go away the more you make use of the equipment 😀. In another example, my previously intermittent BeoSound 1 CD player has been running smoothly since I started using it more.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
What output connection does the Bluetooth receiver have? If you can described that or post a photo (and one of the Beocenter!) we can suggest a suitable cable.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Ideal tool is ‘circlip pliers’, the sort that you use for compressing an internal circlip inwards to remove (you can also buy a version that stretches the ‘external’ clips outwards). The pointy ends are inserted into the two holes in the battery clip (not the screw holes, the other ones), and squeezing quite hard then reduces the size of the clip so that you can remove it.
Alternative technique that I have used: Use the two small screws that hold the base on and screw these into the ‘removal’ holes. Then you may be able to use normal long nose pliers for the same operation. Be careful not to bend the screws (ask me how I know!) 😀
EDIT: If not already moved inwards, this plastic tab may need pushing inwards to allow the clip to reduce in size (I think mine were already pushed in):
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Do you have anything connected to the Masterlink (ML) socket of the BS3200?
If not, you could add a Beolink Converter 1611, connected to the BS3200 by Masterlink. Then connect either your Beocord or Beogram to the AAL socket of the Beolink Converter. If you then put the BS3200 in A.OPT 2, you will be able to select this device by pressing any video input on the remote (eg DVD). This then leaves the BS3200 aux socket free for the other component (Beocord or Beogram).
The Beolink Converter is a useful solution for adding an extra aux socket to the BS3200 (and other systems) and allows you to select inputs using the remote.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
“\nGuy wrote:\nI am leaving the Essence\/Passive set up for a few days to see if I experience any longer term problems using a fully wired RJ45 to PL lead.\nGreat, then we can see if the long term issue that Steve mentioned in that other thread do apply in your case”
I have had to pack the equipment away again today, but in the two weeks that the Essence Mk2 has been set up, the standard, fully-wired RJ45 to PL cable worked perfectly to turn the Passive on and off at the appropriate times. There is a delay after using Bluetooth, but this is expected because the Essence waits a while (by design) to send the power-off signal over the PL socket. At random times (pre- and post- shutdown) I checked the voltages at RJ45 pins 4&5 and they were identical.
For the last week or so I added my Beoplay M3 to the mix to see if additional NL devices had any effect, but there was no change to behaviour. I didn’t add the NL/ML Converter (or any ML devices) to the test, so that is one thing that could potentially affect the Essence/PL behaviour, but I doubt it would make any difference.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
