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Great news – thanks for letting us know. It’s well worth keeping BS1s in full working order, and it looks very good on your floor stand!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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So today the new belts arrived from Danish Sound Parts so I could crack on with fixing the BS3000 doors. The parts were only ordered on Thursday evening, so a great quick service, fully tracked with Royal Mail.
But first I had to have a quick look at my grandson’s Lightsabre – no prizes for guessing what was wrong with it …
But back to the BS3000. I’d already given the exterior and interior a good clean, especially the door runners – I also applied a small amount of WD40 Silicon Lubricant. I replaced both the door belt and the CD clamper belt – both pretty straightforward and there’s plenty of threads/videos to help. The main worry is not to let the tiny circlips spring across the room during removal! It’s all up and running now, ready for return to my cousin. Some photos for reference – showing the new belts fitted:
I have also had a good look at the faulty BeoSound 4. Basically it’s stuck at stand-by and will not respond to remote (other than power button which closes the door, which works fine). On the keyboard the only button that makes anything happen is the LOAD, which causes the door to open further for CD loading. The stand-by red light shows permanently, and responds by flashing if I change the option setting. I have tried entering the Service Menu using both keyboard and remote – neither work. I do have the PIN but am unable to enter the PIN menu. I have tried controlling it by connecting to my BV10-32 with an ML cable – no joy there.Searching the old forums came up with this post (amongst others) from Peter: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/39215/325907.aspx#325907So I think that is probably the problem – a SW problem related to the PIN system. Nevertheless I stripped it down and checked all the connectors etc – the ribbon cables are mostly the push-in type (no locking mechanism) which I found a bit strange – some were quite difficult to re-insert. The backup battery is fine (3.2V) but I also tried shorting it out briefly in the hope that this would kick the processor back into life – this didn’t work! So unless anyone has any further suggestions I think I will give up!Just for interest here’s a photo of the insides – the ‘suspect’ PCB6 is at the bottom and the backup battery is behind the two ribbon cables that emerge from it.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
See here for similar BM6500 – photo and description of wiring included: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/43123/313059.aspx#313059
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I think the problem could be that there is no audio or video master on the ML side, hence no power being supplied to ML.
In this sort of situation you need an ML Power Box – see attached from the BeoLink Handbook: (click to enlarge)
EDIT: See also this thread about the Powerbox used with BL3500: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/16217/141383.aspxLocation: Warwickshire, UK
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I think it’s the same battery at the BC9500. I use these which fit perfectly as they have the correct pin spacing: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/cell-lithium-button-2pin-3v/dp/1319731
As you can see both pins solder on the same side (other side from the physical battery).
EDIT: After replacing the battery you may need to adjust the FM/AM offset in Test Mode as explained on page 7-3 of the service manual. (That’s assuming you have FM/AM stations in your area with known frequencies)
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I’ve only carried out the procedure on a couple of BC9500s, but no-one else has replied.
For me, a new battery solved the problem – I think I had to carry out the COdE procedure again after battery replacement, but there have been no further problems since with either system.
In my experience, if you keep the system connected to mains power the problem may not re-occur – my mother-in-law’s system failed early because she switched it off at the wall every night. However, if the battery is flat then it may be close to leaking, hence worth replacing.
I’m currently debating changing the battery in a BS3000 that I have taken apart for door/CD belt changes – will probably do so to give it a longer lifespan.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Finally got time to take it apart, and I think I found the issue (at least one for now) and its the small rubber belt that has broken that opens up the hatch. So now is that an easy fix or?
Hopefully, if you can find a replacement belt of the same size – I am not aware of any suppliers so it may be trial and error! Unless anyone else knows on the forum. Otherwise you could buy that replacement clamper from eBay – there is also a new one here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166441843810
Also, would that be the reason the cd wont play as well? as that belt only seems to be for the actual hatch to open?
I can’t remember if there is a microswitch to tell the system that the clamper is fully down – if there is it should be fairly obvious. Also the clamper needs t be fully down so that the CD is gripped so that it will turn at the correct speed, otherwise it will not play.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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No, but I think there is a circuit description of how to make a switch for that in some of the MCL documentation, so B&O did something to make this solution plausible.
Here it is – basically isolates the power and data connections:
Picture extracted from here (half way down page): https://beoworld.org/wiring-diagrams/Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Are you sure that the BM6500 is not in A.OPT 0, where it will not response to IR control?
To change back, with the system at stand-by, use the BL1000 and press SOUND then 1 then STORE. Now try the remote again.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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got quoted 230£ for a cd repair here in sweden or if it was the laser they said 1000£ which I obviously wouldnt pay haha
That sounds expensive! My new laser (fitted myself) cost £30!
Have fun dismantling the BeoSound – it is actually quite straightforward. And if you break something you can usually find replacement parts such as this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186532000399
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Hi Kim and welcome to Beoworld!
You really need to disassemble and investigate, but it should be quite straightforward especially if you have the service manual (available on site to Silver/Gold members). I have three BeoSound 1s and have dismantled all of them to clean and fix various problems with the CD.
The last one that I took apart had a slight problem with the door mechanism, as you will see if you read my posts in the following thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-1-faulty-cd-player/#post-56558
If you have any further questions come back and ask and maybe provide photos – I can always check the mechanism against one of my working ones.
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Hello BeoZip
I downloaded the program from your link, when I log in the program requires a login and password. Did I do something wrong?
Just put a tick in the ‘work offline’ box and the software should work fine.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Have a read of page 10 of the BS9000 reference book here: https://bangolufsenassistentgohe.blob.core.windows.net/manuals/SOUND_SYSTEMS/BEOSOUND_9000/beosound9000_referencebook_english.pdf
It explains all the connections.
And as stated by B&O Orlando, the aux socket is also an output – this will be fixed line level. Aux DIN pins 1 & 4 are the output (whereas 3 &5 are input). You should use this to connect to a non-B&O amplifier but make sure that your connection lead is taking the BS9000 output from pins 1 and 4.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Thanks – the picture is useful.
Have you checked everything that is mentioned in the second of the two threads I posted earlier? This one: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-ouverture-cd-not-working/#post-50361
Although it is titled ‘Ouverture CD not working’, in the linked thread I discuss fixing my technically similar BC2300, which is the straight laser path version like yours.
Have you got the Service Manual? (If so, at the very end is the CDM12 version, like yours – page 15-1 onwards. PCB89 is the ‘CD interface board’, shown on the right of your picture))
Have you entered the service mode and run the CD test modes? If so, what results?
Is the CD module (and the CD interface board on the right of you picture) getting power?
Have you checked all the ribbon cables and connectors?
Have you checked the polarity of the capacitors that were replaced? Have you reflowed the solder joints?
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Sorry for answer in English, but it could be a problem with capacitor C2103 on the servo board – you can search the forum (and archives) for similar CD problems with both BC9000 and other systems.
Danish Sound Parts do offer a replacement capacitor kit, which may well solve the problem: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/capacitor-kit-for-cdm-disc-drive-servo-beogram-cd-beocenter/
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Further to madskp’s response, I think the Mk3 Powerlink cables will be fine in this situation – available from Sounds Heavenly here: https://soundsheavenly.com/powerlink-8-pin-din-connection/20-272-powerlink-mk-3-compatible-8-pin-din-cable-with-4-cores-wired-low-profile-cable.html#/9-length-18m
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What type of BC2300 do you have? Straight or curved path laser? And what CD module is fitted? Perhaps add some photos.
I would be checking power to the CD module, and the security of any ribbon connectors.
Is Pcb85 on beosond 3000 the same as in used in Beocenter 2300?
I have taken this question from your other thread (which I will delete). I looked that the BS3000 service manual and couldn’t find PCB85 – which PCB do you mean? With what function?
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I got this functionality working with a Beocenter 9300 – 1611 converter – NL/ML converter -Beoplay V1 where I could activate the Beoplay V1 with a press on one of the buttons on the BC9300. It was discussed in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/24/ where the goal was to find out if the same functionality could be had with a MCL2AV with a connected Beogram. The thread might be a littl messy, but I know I had it working.
Perhaps the Powerlink connection (and specifically the ‘speaker on’ signal) helped in this situation. I seem to remember that the Configuration Tool mentions that a PL connection to the BL1611 is required for audio ‘front panel volume control’ in such a setup. When using just an ML connection there is no ‘speaker on’ signal that I am aware of, but you would think that the ‘data’ connection would cover this requirement.
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In that case I don’t have the answer. I suppose that research into the relay type is part of what you are paying for when buying parts from Danish Sound Parts – to my mind it is worth paying a little extra for the peace of mind of a known compatible part.
One of the older archived threads may have the answer, or perhaps remove the relay and take to an electronics store and ask for an equivalent.
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