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By the way, do you know about BL 2 ligths If you know you can see the topic about this Thanks.
Hi Ralph – I take it you are referring to this thread that you started about 6 weeks ago: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beo-lab-2-lights/
Hopefully someone will now see it and post an answer.
(By the way, no need to raise the same question in lots of different language posts – best to stick to one, and if in any doubt stick to English because that has more members who understand).
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
There are a few posts in both this and the earlier forum regarding failed hard-drives in BS3200s. I don’t think it affects the rest of the system but be aware that they do fail, and if buying one check the hard-drive functionality. I don’t think that they are easy to replace.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Both reversed polarity of the sound signal, but also you are putting 5V trigger on pin 4 and 5-12V on pin 1 which are both part of the sound signal path. Also you only have the data shield as ground since pin 2 is not connected in the BL3500.
Yes that makes sense – thanks fo explaining.
MK1 is up to serial number 19343452 and has MCL engraved in the metal underneath the DIN connector. Also I belive they were never produced with higher software version than 2.1, but can be upgraded with the loss of MCL functionality.
Yes, my only BL3500 serial number starts 1497
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Thank you, Guy. Life is so complicated enough, why they need to hide it like that, I don’t know and don’t get me started on the remote control!
After using it for nearly 20 years, the Beo4 is now the only remote that doesn’t confuse me! 😀
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
If I rember correctly the MK1 can be activated without the data signal, but will not put out sound.
I think mine is a Mk1 – it has the MCL socket marked as such.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
View from rear, top edge of left panel, connector inserted upwards – hope this helps!
(EDIT: It’s a standard figure of eight (C7) power cable)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
To be honest there are a number of other variables – all of which make thorough testing very difficult:
- Mk1 or Mk2 BL3500
- SW level of the BL3500
- Whether ML is turned ON or OFF on the BL3500 (I can’t think of anything else adjustable in BL3500 menu)
- Whether the timer is set to ‘ON’ on the BL3500
- What audiomaster is being used, and SW level (does it send PL trigger on pin 4?)
- Whether the PL cable is fully wired (mine is)
- Whether the BL3500 is fully working
- Whether the BL3500 has been modified
I did try lots of option settings, also tried ML ON and OFF, and with BL3500 timer both ON and OFF.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
You got me confused .. between “I can´t get it to trigger” to “sound from both speakers”
I mean that I can’t get it (the BL3500) to trigger (i.e turn on) by operating the front panel of the BC2300 (or by using the remote with BC2300 in A.OPT 2 and BL3500 in L.OPT 0).
Conversely, with the BC2300 in A.OPT 0 and BL3500 in L.OPT 2 or 6, I can get the system (BC and BL) to turn on and play through both L&R speakers using the remote, or by pressing MUTE on the BL3500 front panel (which plays the last played source.)
So the BL3500 will control the BC2300, but the BC2300 will not control the BL3500.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Do you also get sound in this setup? The beahaviour you see control wise is because the data signal is connected the same was as if you were using a ML-MCL converter to convert from powerlink to MCL
Yes, sound from both speakers. Of course PL is a variable level output so there is a double volume control problem. Whilst listening, if I adjust the volume on the BC2300 front panel I get a ‘pop’ from the speakers.
EDIT: When I listen closely I can hear a high pitched whine from the right hand speaker – sounds like a grounding problem so something is not quite right. Maybe polarity reversed on that channel – does that make any sense?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I have just connected my BC2300 to my SW2.0 BL3500 by powerlink, and it’s behaving pretty much as if connected by ML. I can’t get it to trigger from the BC2300. I have tried L.OPT 0, 2 and 6 to no avail.
One strange observation – when I connected the BC2300 the time appeared in the BL3500 display. The BC2300 that I am using does not have a clock/timer, and I cannot adjust the BL3500 clock to show the correct time.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
@madskp when you re-do the test can you clarify the SW version of the BL3500 that you use just in case it only works with a particular SW. I can try with my Mk1 SW2.0 if required.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Following with interest. Just for the avoidance of confusion, the following shows the correct 7-pin DIN pin numbering, viewed from the solder side of a DIN plug:
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
If it makes life easier you could always retro-fit an RIAA amplifier inside your BG8500. This has the added advantage that you can increase the cable length between the Beogram and the audiomaster because the signal level is higher.
Look half way down this page for the ‘RIAA modul for Beogram, type 59xx’: https://claudius-elektronik.dk/designs-og-l-sninger.html
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Ah sorry I misread your original post.
Assuming that the speakers still work with the original Ouverture, and that you have double checked all powerlink leads by swapping them around, then it would appear that the fault is indeed within the ‘new’ Ouverture.
Check the headphone socket to see if both Left and Right channels are working.
How technical are you? You may be able to have a relatively easy fix by moving the pre-amp board between the ‘old’ and ‘new’ Ouverture. The Service manuals are available on this site for Silver and Gold members.
EDIT: Here’s a (very dusty) pre-amp board for sale – the pictures are useful to see how many connectors you’d have to undo to replace: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186593271703
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
It may be obvious, but have you tried swapping powerlink leads from left to right to rule out a fault with the cables? If the connections to the audio channels are broken the speaker could still turn on without playing sound.
If the fault stays with the same speaker then it is likely to be faulty.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Guy…..Oh and yes, I guess I’ll need something to control volume if the BS2300 is out of the mix…….is that what you are referring to?
Volume control will be a requirement, but when describing your original system you said that the Beogram was connected to the BC2300 via a pre-amp, which of course it would need because the BC2300 doesn’t have a pre-amp built in.
However, the Beogram 5500 can be remote controlled via datalink*. The DIN output of the Beogram would originally have two extra pins (pins 6 and 7) to allow remote control of the Beogram via the BC2300. If these appropriate pin was connected direct from Beogram to BC2300 (bypassing the pre-amp) then remote control of the Beogram should still be possible.
* Added complication is that Phono uses pin 6 for datalink, unless RIAA Pre-amp is built in (to the Beogram) in which case it uses pin 7. So in your case any datalink bypass would need to take the Beogram output’s DIN pin 6 to the BC2300 Aux input’s DIN pin 7 (in effect, to trick the BC2300 into thinking that there is an RIAA/pre-amp equipped Beogram connected.)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
In a way I think it would be easier to use airplay without having to put the 3000 on and on Aux. And would I then connect from PL to RCA input?
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I agree that you would be better being able to use airplay without having to turn the 3000 on, hence better to connect an output from the BS3000 to the (auto sensing) aux input of the Essence, with the speakers connected to the Essence).
When controlling the BS3000, if you want to control the volume control using the B&O remote or front panel, you will have to connect from the ‘variable level’ Powerlink outputs (DIN pins 3&5) into the Essence RCA, but you will have to control volume using the Essence (remote or other device with B&O app).
If you are happy not to use the BS3000 volume controls, you can use the BS3000 DIN aux socket (DIN pins 1&4) as a ‘fixed level’ output.
However, to avoid compromise I would be tempted to use on of these so that the two devices can share the speakers: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69067-powerlink-switch/4162-powerlink-speaker-switch/
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
You might already have the redline manual – I have attached it anyway. (EDIT: Not sure why the quality is so poor when uploaded, I downloaded it from AVA Services here: https://www.avaservices.co.uk/downloads/speakers.html)
Page 4 picture 6A does show the piece you are missing, and it is actually described as a standard wall bracket. The notes do refer to an extra piece that is used for light walls, so that must be the extra piece that I have used in the past.
So the piece that you are missing may well be described as a ‘Redline wall bracket’ in any sale listings!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Unless you can make some? Like the home-made ones in this listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226262051072
Actually the same seller has those bits on offer (a bit pricey) as a ‘static wall mount’: https://www.quality-dream-audio.co.uk/stands-furniture-wall-mounts-and-clocks/redline-4560-static-wall-mount.html
(The official Redline ‘static wall mount’ was actually a two part bracket, with those bits attaching to a separate piece that was screwed to the wall.)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Can anyone confirm this is correct?
That’s correct – you can see those brackets fitted in this listing: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186599725335
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
