[Dillen]

Yes. But I won’t say.
I have one just like that – got it from you. 🙂

Three rolling stands in one photo. You don’t see that every day.

Martin

[Dillen]

What cable/adapter are you using?

Martin

[Dillen]

It should connect to the Phono input. Either the DIN or the RCA sockets.
Then select Phono as the source on the Beomasters remote.
If no sound is heard from the record player (and the Beomaster will play radio etc. fine), there must be a problem with either the record player, the cable/adapters or the Beomasters phono input.

Martin

[Dillen]

Mark-sf wrote:

By back panel are you referring to the black grill that covers the connections? If you are it is only held by gravity. There is a stop piece attached to the underside in the middle of the grill piece that might have gotten stuck down.

The black grill (with sockets etc.) is held down by a plate-type bronze spring.
Just pull up. It’ll snap free.

Martin

[Dillen]

Not the most common plug to find, – but I have one.
PM me.

Martin

[Dillen]

And apparently, some ICs were replaced as well.
I may be able to find a working module in the dungeons if needed.

Martin

[Dillen]

Which type?

(E and F was not used for Beomaster 900).

Martin

[Dillen]

A bad rectifier D50 wouldn’t be a first.
Also, check the solder joints around the standby relay.

Martin

[Dillen]

Die_Bogener wrote:

The BC9500 is similar to the 7000 system… and 5500/6500/7000 amplifier have a problem with the potentiometer of the “no_load_current”. If it fails, the current is so high, that the emergency cutoff is activated. Replace the pots, around 100 Ohm… measure the adjustment of the pots, remove them, replace them… start around with the same position of the pots… take FOTO ! The 7000 uses this adjustment… it’s 7000, not 9500. But very similar…

Replace the trimmer and adjust according to the service manual!
Referring to a defective component makes no sense.

Do the other channel as well, as it will also fail sooner rather than later.

Martin

[Dillen]

The lever (or “rod”) for the tonearm swing can have a little white lithium grease – that’s on the upside of the cam wheel. As can the arm for the lift/lower function, and the cam wheels center hub.
But the small arms and levers on the cam wheel should never be lubricated. A lot of owners make this mistake.
They must be clean and dry – rattling.

Not all Beogram 3000 have the start relay box. Some have a mechanically operated switch.
But if it does have the relay, you could replace the capacitor as suggested above. It’s a bipolar type if I remember correctly.
A misadjustment of the position of the start relay could also cause problems.

Martin

[Dillen]

Lamp for record sensor arm Beogram 6002 6006 8000 8002 TX

But it’s not in the keyboard, it’s in the sensor arm.
The lamp inside the keyboard is also found in the webshop.

Polishing acryllic can be an hours-long process, depending on the itinial condition and what tools etc. you have.
Novus #2 is usually a good starting point.

Patience could also be the solution. You never know when new dustcovers become available…

Martin

[Dillen]

Has something broken off the eject button/actuator?

Martin

[Dillen]

Broken gear?

Martin

[Dillen]

You should be able to use the Radio socket for line-out.
Lower part of left side, if I remember correctly.

Martin

[Dillen]

Pommeyard wrote:

Is there any way to find out the TS parameters of the original driver itself?

Yes, it can be measured (on a working driver) with the right equipment, but no modern drivers will come anywhere near. It has been tried many times. By me and several others.
I would do a repair attempt. There’s really not a lot to lose.
If it fails, find original replacements from donor(s). It’s not a rare model, and
often speakers can be found with damaged cabinets, water, rodents or whatever.

Martin

[Dillen]

Beolink 7000 does not operate Beomaster 6000.
You will need the Terminal 6000.

https://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=994

Martin

[Dillen]

It’s all mechanical.
It’s basically the rod on which the small black knob sits inside the speed selector knob.
Often found stuck in dried and hardened lubricants.
Depending on the motor type it lifts and lowers the idler wheel or the motor spindle or
controls pressure on felt brakes in a govenor-type setup.
Take apart, clean and lubricate.

Martin

[Dillen]

Seized fine speed regulator would also be my guess.
Very common if not serviced.

Martin

[Dillen]

Failing cantilever suspension perhaps.
While playing a record, try (carefully) to add a little finger-weight onto the cartridge – just enough to see the stylus change its tracking angle.
If it snaps down and starts playing clean and right, the suspension is failing (can be repaired by experts).

Martin

[Dillen]

How much to fast?
Has it been serviced or has the speed selector seized at a high setting?

Martin

[Author]

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