[Dillen]

Which type?

(E and F was not used for Beomaster 900).

Martin

[Dillen]

A bad rectifier D50 wouldn’t be a first.
Also, check the solder joints around the standby relay.

Martin

[Dillen]

Die_Bogener wrote:

The BC9500 is similar to the 7000 system… and 5500/6500/7000 amplifier have a problem with the potentiometer of the “no_load_current”. If it fails, the current is so high, that the emergency cutoff is activated. Replace the pots, around 100 Ohm… measure the adjustment of the pots, remove them, replace them… start around with the same position of the pots… take FOTO ! The 7000 uses this adjustment… it’s 7000, not 9500. But very similar…

Replace the trimmer and adjust according to the service manual!
Referring to a defective component makes no sense.

Do the other channel as well, as it will also fail sooner rather than later.

Martin

[Dillen]

The lever (or “rod”) for the tonearm swing can have a little white lithium grease – that’s on the upside of the cam wheel. As can the arm for the lift/lower function, and the cam wheels center hub.
But the small arms and levers on the cam wheel should never be lubricated. A lot of owners make this mistake.
They must be clean and dry – rattling.

Not all Beogram 3000 have the start relay box. Some have a mechanically operated switch.
But if it does have the relay, you could replace the capacitor as suggested above. It’s a bipolar type if I remember correctly.
A misadjustment of the position of the start relay could also cause problems.

Martin

[Dillen]

Lamp for record sensor arm Beogram 6002 6006 8000 8002 TX

But it’s not in the keyboard, it’s in the sensor arm.
The lamp inside the keyboard is also found in the webshop.

Polishing acryllic can be an hours-long process, depending on the itinial condition and what tools etc. you have.
Novus #2 is usually a good starting point.

Patience could also be the solution. You never know when new dustcovers become available…

Martin

[Dillen]

Has something broken off the eject button/actuator?

Martin

[Dillen]

Broken gear?

Martin

[Dillen]

You should be able to use the Radio socket for line-out.
Lower part of left side, if I remember correctly.

Martin

[Dillen]

Pommeyard wrote:

Is there any way to find out the TS parameters of the original driver itself?

Yes, it can be measured (on a working driver) with the right equipment, but no modern drivers will come anywhere near. It has been tried many times. By me and several others.
I would do a repair attempt. There’s really not a lot to lose.
If it fails, find original replacements from donor(s). It’s not a rare model, and
often speakers can be found with damaged cabinets, water, rodents or whatever.

Martin

[Dillen]

Beolink 7000 does not operate Beomaster 6000.
You will need the Terminal 6000.

https://www.beoworld.org/prod_details.asp?pid=994

Martin

[Dillen]

It’s all mechanical.
It’s basically the rod on which the small black knob sits inside the speed selector knob.
Often found stuck in dried and hardened lubricants.
Depending on the motor type it lifts and lowers the idler wheel or the motor spindle or
controls pressure on felt brakes in a govenor-type setup.
Take apart, clean and lubricate.

Martin

[Dillen]

Seized fine speed regulator would also be my guess.
Very common if not serviced.

Martin

[Dillen]

Failing cantilever suspension perhaps.
While playing a record, try (carefully) to add a little finger-weight onto the cartridge – just enough to see the stylus change its tracking angle.
If it snaps down and starts playing clean and right, the suspension is failing (can be repaired by experts).

Martin

[Dillen]

How much to fast?
Has it been serviced or has the speed selector seized at a high setting?

Martin

[Dillen]

Hole?
Three dollars?
Honestly…

It’s a general misunderstanding that a B&O service manual will tell you how to repair something.
It won’t and it doesn’t.
It tells you how the thing was built, it gives part numbers for ordering, adjustment procedures and a few hints here and there.
The rest is up to your technical education, and in this case also experience as this deck is not a good project for a beginner.

Please understand that it’s neither the Beograms nor our fault, if you cannot repair your Beogram yourself.
Most of us here will do our best to help members in need with advice, guidance, ideas and perhaps even parts, – doing our
best – but we cannot take a guess at which part(s) you need to replace in this case, and we have no idea about the level of your skills.
Most likely, as I also told you in the PM, all of these decks will need a thorough restoration by now. There will almost certainly be several defective parts, broken connections and whatnots, often making it impossible to diagnose one single issue at a time.
When you have replaced the IC you may, or may not, have cured one issue. And with this cured, the next issue will become apparent. Working this way, it could take you two years.

Besides, many Beoworlders are located in northern hemisphere areas, – it’s summer here, people are out and about, and the forum is very quiet.

And one more thing – and don’t take this the wrong way, – I would like to help everybody the best I can, but
the “if you won’t help me, I will throw it away”-attitude tells a lot about the lack of importance this job and the lack of value this Beogram has to you.
Surely, it won’t see me upping my efforts.
My time will be better spent on something that will give meaning and value to someone.

As said before, Beogram 8000 is a great performing deck worth having repaired, or even restored, professionally.
Seeing as you are based in AZ/US, I would consider contacting one of the guys from Beolover.
What they charge I don’t know, but most of these jobs usually end up in the EUR 300-500 range here,
and a well serviced Beogram, if also nice visually, can sell for up to twice that amount.

If you don’t want to continue repairs, someone else surely will.

Martin

[Dillen]

You have already achieved more than most owners could/would.
These Beograms are wonderful decks, but not easy to service as they are so different from everything else, and it’s often seen that several problems and faults are present at the same
time, which can easily confuse matters immensely and make diagnosing difficult.
I suggest you leave servicing to someone with more experience. The results will be great and the Beogram is worth it.

Whenever I have problems with my car, I try to fix as much as possible myself, – and I can
do quite a lot myself, really – but every now and then a repair is necessary for which I simply don’t have the knowledge, experience and/or tools and instruments, and in these
cases I bring it in for servicing at a pro car repairshop.
I don’t throw my car away just because a problem comes up that I cannot solve myself.

Of course your Beogram can be repaired.
If you are in – or near – Denmark, I’d happily take a look at it.

Martin

[Dillen]

The “solid” marking indicates ground.
That’s not necessarily the capacitors negative pin because some capacitors work with negative voltages.
The best reference is what the factory fitted (though that is not always guaranteed to be correct either).

Martin

[Dillen]

The return to stop indicates a CPU reset.
Replace capacitors, replace CPU socket, check solder joints.

Martin

[Dillen]

What happens if you unplug the Beogram from the amp completely?

Martin

[Dillen]

This is not the only Bang & Olufsen product currently available on the market.
There are many others to choose from. And at many price levels, – for beach or home use.

You don’t have to buy any of it, if you don’t want to.

These Beogram based products may bring a respectable revenue – I cannot say – but I see them merely as novelty products, really.
Colors can be discussed. A matter of taste, I suppose.
Nice none-the-less.
Unique and special.

You could take a look at how Bang & Olufsen chose to mark their 50 years anniversary in 1975 product-wise;
Well, to put it short they … (insert drum-roll)… put a sticker on a number of portable radios and distributed them
to the employees who participated in the celbration party at the factory.

Not exactly an earth-quake of a product – but collectable still, –  almost 50 years later.

Martin

[Author]

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