[Dillen]

It’s difficult to find cable of the same type as the original.
So far I have managed with what I could find in the dungeons from scrapped units and leftovers collected over decades from closed repairshops, but perhaps Steve can give us an idea?

The original black color seems to vary a little. If this is because of age and sunlight or because the original production spanned several paint batches I cannot say.
A not-to-reflective but not exactly flat silk black either, should be close.

Martin

[Dillen]

Nice job – but as I see it, there is no longer any shielding between the two signal leads.
There is quite an amount of amplification to whatever comes out of that cable, so even
the tiny amount of transfer caused by capacitive coupling between the two long parallel
leads close together could cause the channels to mix a little (loss of channel separation).
It’s marginal – that’s correct, but the old cable was in fact of better quality in this respect.

The new cable would be better suited for balanced signals, really, – stage gear, microphones with long leads and the likes.

And you are absolutely right about the two grounds.

Martin

[Dillen]

Failing switch.
Give it a shot of contact cleaner and work it a dozen times.

Martin

[Dillen]

Carefully remove the locking washer on the top of the spool. It has a slit so is usually not difficult to remove.
Then take off the spool – note the small anti-vibration insert. It’s a tiny round bronze plate, wedged up against the spindle – easily lost.
While in there, I suggest you clean the spindle and inside of the spool off old grease and add a small amount of fresh white lithium grease.

Martin

[Dillen]

Yes, the magnet has come lose.
You must take off the the reel table and glue the magnet back onto it.

Martin

[Dillen]

I agree.

Martin

[Dillen]

The reel tables carry the spindles with tridents that grips into the spools with the tape.

Martin

[Dillen]

Good job!

Martin

[Dillen]

Good job!

Martin

[Dillen]

Good job!

Martin

[Dillen]

In order to check:

Bad tape.
Seized reel table. Take apart, clean and relubricate.
Problem with reel table brake.

Martin

[Dillen]

Bad muting relay?
Try speaker sockets 2. They bypass the relay. If sound is good there, replace the relay.

Martin

[Dillen]

That would see the tonearm move out of parallel with the other arm.

Martin

[Dillen]

Unless a wire is shorting to something, which would be very obvious, it can almost only be a case of a bad stereo decoder IC.

Martin

[Dillen]

Does the Signal meter deflect and/or the red tuning arrows flicker, as you travel the dial?

Martin

[Dillen]

You don’t have to clean the platter now.
It’s just that, if the platter was cleaned at some point, its coating may have been damaged.
Many owners, – particularly of the type 59xx decks, wash their platters or use
solvent-based cleaning products to make the platter shiny.
It may look nice, but the coating has then been washed away and the platters static discharging properties will have been ruined.
This will cause problems with static electricity, that charges up on the record from airs friction. In severe cases you can see “lightning”-type sparks from the record to surrounding chassis metal in a dark room.
The platter should not be shiny. Cleaning should only be done with a soft cloth

Martin

[Dillen]

Could it be a static discharge from the record/platter/surround?
Has the platter been cleaned with anything other than a soft cloth?

Martin

[Dillen]

Move the doors on the string.
Losen the small clamps, move them and tighten them again.

Martin

[Dillen]

Can you hear the sounds also if you play a record with the Beomaster turned off or its volume at zero?

Martin

[Dillen]

Bad pickup cartridge?
The faint sound you here – does it correspond to what you what expect to hear from the record?

Martin

[Author]

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