[Dillen]

The broken tuning part is (was) merely a friction clutch.
Beomaster 1400 (M/K) was produced in the late 1960s, and since 1980 there were no more working clutches. They had all disintegrated due to the choice of material.
Luciky, the tuning will work fine none-the-less, – just without the flywheel effect.

Martin

[Dillen]

The RCA sockets are known to break their solder joints.
They will have to be re-soldered.

Martin

[Dillen]

The OPA213… is end of life. No longer produced. Grab them while you can.
Or grab a kit containing them, that is pretty much based on the same upgrade theory.

Martin

[Dillen]

You could put a scope to the output of the tracking opto and follow the signal through the
electronics but, if your deck has not yet been restored with new capacitors etc., I think
that would be the place to start as more issues will almost certainly arise after this one has been fixed.

Martin

[Dillen]

Knob here.

The missing channel could be caused by one or more dead capacitors.

Martin

[Dillen]

Do you see light inside the shutter house at the foot of the carriage, when the deck is playing?

Martin

[Dillen]

Note there are two types. One for each of the two tape drive versions.

Martin

[Dillen]

Tracking force set correctly?
Tonearm lowering depth set correctly?

Martin

[Dillen]

Does it say Beogram 4002 or 4004 on the operating panel?
Does the panel have a connector to the “output” board?

Martin

[Dillen]

I normally work within the small space allowed by the spring action.

Martin

[Dillen]

Yes, the cam wheel on top needs to come off.
You can take it off and, while keeping the strings tight, take out the worm gear assy with
the felt clutch, and put back the cam while working with the clutch assy.

Martin

[Dillen]

Take apart and clean. In most cases that’ll do it.
Else, the friction can be increased if you rough up the plastic surfaces a bit.

Martin

[Dillen]

The felt clutch could have lost friction.
Can you tell, if it’s slipping?

Martin

[Dillen]

Whisch type of transistor did you fit for IC9?

All lamps working and correct wattage? – No LED “conversion”?
The three lamps illuminating the tone control dials double as bleeders for the 15V supply.
It’s not uncommon to see that these Beomasters won’t go into standby, if to many
lamps are out, wrong or replaced by LEDs.

Martin

[Dillen]

The identification sticker is found at the back of the main unit, – not visible when
the main unit is mounted in the metal bracket.
Most BeoSystem 2500 has the name printed at the lower left of the shiny front panel – below the tape bay, and yours doesn’t seem to have this, so my guess would
be BeoSound Ouverture or BeoCenter 2500, with Beolab 2500 speakers.

Martin

[Dillen]

Check IC9 (SPS5431).

Martin

[Dillen]

The very thin leads from the cone to the voicecoil tend to break under the lip of the center dustcap. It’s quite common for Beovox S120 and Beovox MC120.2.
Most can be repaired if you work carefully.

Martin

[Dillen]

Replace the standby relay. It must be hanging (welded contacts), allowing the output stages to be powered even in standby.

Martin

[Dillen]

Is it only the far right side of the cooling fin that is warm?
And how warm?

Martin

[Dillen]

Yes, wrong tracking force setting. Check it with a gauge and reset the scale if it is off.
Or damaged stylus.

Martin

[Author]

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