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GOLD MemberNo big issues on these in my experience. The motors can make ticking noises but this can be remedied, and I’ve had a similar Beogram 2000 do some odd things when dirt got behind the front panel and into its start/stop switch but other then that, they’re pretty reliable.
Lovely decks – go on, treat yourself!
I’m working on a big speaker drive unit re-foaming session currently.
The two drivers at the left rear are from RL140s and I’m sure you can all work out where the SIXTEEN midrange drivers at the front came from!
I was hugely impressed by the Beolab 28s when i heard them – one of the best speakers B&O have developed in years (outside of the 90s or 50s, obviously).
However, I would say personally that they still fall a fair way short of the Beolab 5s’ performance.
My main loudspeakers are Beolab 90s and I also use Beovox MS150.2s regularly.
Hi Adam, that is indeed superb! which amp do you use for the MS150.2s? ps/edit: how to get out of the quote mode?
edit 2: ah it works, thanks Guy!
I obviously have a Beomaster 8000 but I mainly use the MS150.2s with a Yamaha C-5000 preamp and M-5000 power amp
What a wonderful selection of prizes and hearty congratulations to all!
Very envious of Martin’s boot bag!!
I know the chap who made the original post, and he and I have been in conversation about these. I hope he won’t mind me reproducing part of a text he sent me last night here:
“….these things sound fantastic!”
Looks like we may have another convert… :o)
My main loudspeakers are Beolab 90s and I also use Beovox MS150.2s regularly.
I agree that the Theatre does look a bit odd but, in contrast, of the items that the OP mentions that he likes, I’ve always found the Beovision 5 to be an odd looking thing that permanently seems to be about to topple over backwards. Even worse, I think that the Beolit 12 is one of the ugliest things ever to bear the B&O name!
Horses for course, as they say…
19 December 2022 at 14:35 in reply to: What does B&O do with all the speakers they buy from different companies? #41512When I worked in loudspeaker design, we would often buy competitors’ speakers for evaluation purposes.
When done with them, they were either donated to charity, or offered to staff for a nominal sum.
I think the first picture looks better, too, but it’s irrelevant as the cartridge is the wrong colour in both pictures!
:o)
Looking at the two pictures, ‘B’ could stand for ‘Brown’!
Whoops – yes, sorry I should have said that.
And don’t worry – we’ve all done it!
If the relay is the same as that used in the MS150.2 loudspeakers that I own, then I believe it is no longer available.
However it”s not difficult to pop the case off the relay and clean its contacts with some fine emery paper, which should do the trick.
It would also be worth replacing any electrolytic capacitors in the protection circuit – if they have aged and dried out then they can cause problems with the circuit’s operation.
I’d say it’s a poor quality cassette shell that has allowed this to happen. You’ll probably have to break the shell apart to fix it, then glue it back together.
They are just an interference fit. Once the drivers are out, give them a tug or a gentle tap with a hammer and they’ll pop off.
14 November 2022 at 14:11 in reply to: Are older speakers more pleasant to hear than modern speakers (Beolab)? #40590I have always struggled with descriptions of audio systems that “sound like the band is there”. I see quite a bit of live music of many genres, and rarely does it sound nearly as good as my home system. The mix isn’t perfect, it’s too loud, the venue has weird acoustics, the audience is noisy, etc. .
As the English comedian Jack Dee once said – “I listen to the Pogues; I don’t WANT them in my lounge…”
I’m afraid that’s the classic noise of a common fault!
The magnetic ring for the FG servo is just above the commutator and when the plastic “tyre” that holds it in place cracks, the loose end gets mixed up with the brushes and makes a noise. Normally just removing the offending loose piece is all you have to do, the ring seems to stay in place by itself.
To do this you have to remove the bottom of the motor, unsolder the PCB and then take off the brush plate. It is much easier to put it back together if you take the pulley off first, then you can insert the rotor into the brush plate before sliding the complete assembly into the stator. Be sure not to lose any of the spacers and washers on the motor shaft, their positions are important. A tiny spot of oil on the two bearings is also a good idea while it is in pieces.
If that sounds all too scary, though, another motor from a turntable of the same range will fit and do the job. Don;t throw the old motor away, though – pass it onto someone for fixing!
I clicked the link and started reading it – I’ll be perfectly honest, I don’t understand a word of it.
Can anyone explain it to a simple engineer in plain English, without phrases like “to launch us into the Metaverse and provide token-gated access to future exclusive Bang & Olufsen products and experiences.”
Thanks!
I don’t know about the Horizon, but we have an Eclipse and the screen activity, speaker group and whether the TV rotates out from the wall on its bracket are all configurable in the setup menus for the relevant input.
I would be surprised if you couldn’t do the same on the Horizon.
I’ve always liked the original Beosound 1 but my good friend Tim Jarman isn’t a fan and so I’m apparently banned from buying one!
Then again, he said the same thing about the Beosystem 10, then promptly bought one from under my nose at a vintage audio sale and loves it, so I may choose to ignore him…
I’ve also always fancied a Beosound 8. Oh, hell, this thread is going to cost me money isn’t it? Thankyou very much Steve!
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