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GOLD MemberInterestingly, the only Wi-Fi issue we’ve ever had is with our Beosound 1 (first generation).
It was located in the kitchen and the wireless router (a standard EE model that they supplied when we switched to 100MB fibre broadband) is in the lounge at the other end of the house.
When we first set this up, everything was fine but, as time went on, the Beosound 1 struggled more and more with the signal and eventually became un-listenable – continually breaking up and dropping out when streaming Spotify. We ended up putting it into a spare bedroom much closer to the router where it is fine. I then replaced it with the Beoplay M5 that I won in a Beoworld draw in the kitchen, which works perfectly, as does the Beosound Core in the dining room next door to the kitchen (and which is actually even further away from the router).
Has anyone else experienced the Wi-Fi performance of a B&O product worsening with time but with no other changes? The Beosound 1 now gets barely any use now it’s in the bedroom, but we love it and can’t bring ourselves to part with it!
It’ll be done in exactly the same way as on the Beolab 90s, I imagine – using DSP.
After doing a bit more research on this and discovering that it’s purely passive and needs an external amplifier and a Core to do anything approaching B&O integration, how does it get a “Beosound” moniker?
Surely, if anything, it’s actually a “Beovox” Bollard?
Indeed. Looking into it, it seems to be an Origin Acoustics product, although their DSP3-700 amplifier appears visually different to the Beoamp. Then again,. the instruction books are pretty much the same, so I’d need persuading just how much B&O DNA is in these.
Beosound “Bollard” – love it!
Someone at B&O has a sense of humour!
I love them, but why on earth would you provide an analogue line-in using a USB socket?
What next? Mains in via an 8 pin DIN socket?!
25 August 2023 at 13:18 in reply to: Sound quality/ reliability comparisons of different beomaster receivers #48358So far my collection is: 6000/ 2400/ 2200 going to maybe find a 901 and a 5000 as well. I hope i am not missing anything else. Do the newer 1980s and 1990s units sound as good as the classic ones?
Yes – you’re missing Beomaster 8000! Still the best sounding receiver B&O ever made, in my humble opinion.
Some of the 1980s and 1990s units are very good, with the 5000 being a particular high. As has been mentioned, the later 5500/6500/7000 models never seem to sound quite as good, but they can be modified to undo these differences and make them sound much more like the 5000.
My vote would always be Pentas from this choice.
As most people on here know, I view the BL2 as an utter abomination that’s only good for boom, bang, thump and exploding helicopter noises, and is utterly hopeless for music.
IMHO, of course!
If you’re in Kent, then you’re in the right corner of England to take them to Tim Jarman in Farnborough.
You can contact him here: https://beocentral.com/contact
Yes – buy the cable you have linked to.
B&O decks screen the cable connection through the body of the DIN plug and so when you use a conventional DIN to phono adaptor you lose this connection and hum is the result.
If you want to double check first, take a bit of wire and attach one end to the earth terminal on the Cambridge Audio preamp. Then, tough the other end on the metal shell of the DIN plug – the hum should vanish. As a quick cheat until the adaptor arrives, you can unplug the DIN plug, fold the end of the wire just over the lip of its metal body (away from the pins) and plug it in – this will hold the wire in place temporarily!
Beolab 28s are lovely, but Beolab 50s are better. That said, if music isn’t your main priority, then I don’t think the 28s would disappoint.
It’s a shame about your Beolab 5s as I’m also of the opinion that, if they were working well, they’d be well worth sticking with.
Have we been invaded by AI?
The service manual is on the main Beoworld website – it’s the one on the list of Beogram 3000s with no “Type” number after it.
In my very humble opinion the Beograms of that era are very decent sounding decks and the 3000 is a good one. Make sure the stylus is in good order and it should perform very well. A Thorens or Acoustical based version of the earlier Beogram 3000 is better, but you’ll pay a lot more for one of these (a lot, lot more in the case of the Thorens!) and they are both becoming quite rare now.
As to the 12″ single thing, this isn’t the best deck for this. If I remember correctly, you have to set it to start playing on its 7″ 45rpm setting and then manually lift the arm back to the start of the 12″ disc.
I agree, I’m a bit underwhelmed, although I’m sure it will be an excellent system and it does look superb. That said, I’m sure I could take my Beogram 4002/MMC20CL down to my local dealer to hear it through Beolab 28s if i wanted to!
If they were going for a true “flagship”, it should have been a new Beogram 8002 with Beolab 90s, surely?
Oooh, count me intrigued as that looks suspiciously like a record cleaning brush!
Out of interest, is the product truly “new” or another classic product being refurbished?
And there are in fact two different counterweights – used in different models, but very similarly looking and not interchangeable. Martin
I think that may be my problem. The second weight under the arm is present and correct, but I notice in all the pictures, the counterweight cover on the Beocenter 1800 arm is silver but mine is black.
I’m guessing I have the wrong weight and it’s too light?
Ah, now that’s interesting – thanks; I hadn’t spotted that!
I shall investigate…
The originals were foam, therefore I’d replace them with foam.
Changing to rubber will alter the parameters of the drivers and make them sound different. Whether this is an improvement or not is purely subjective.
The D/A output is the digital output, which you’re not using, so ignore that.
It looks like the Marantz has both RCA (unbalanced) and XLR (balanced outputs, so the easiest way to connect it is simply to use a decent RCA-RCA lead and set the input sensitivity to 2V
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