[matador]

That makes sense, thanks for the explanation.
The relay are quite difficult to source I believe.
Just to rule out that part and be sure, would it be possible to short some pins from the relay and check for speed stability.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

That’s a fast reply! Thanks.

Ok, I will look a this.

Just for my own knowledge: how is that?
I mean a relay is contact or no contact, haw can he create variations in speed?
Components like capacitors, resistors etc may have their characteristics evolving with heat, time… but a relay, it sticks or it don’t, right? How could he make the speed unstable?

Thanks again.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi alls,

Now the OP problem is solved I’d like to add my case.

I’ have two BG4002, one (A) is spinning fine the other (B) not so much. The second (B) was wowing mostly in 45 rpm but now it wows also in 33 rpm. Note that it may be that wowing is more noticeable in 45 than 33 and was ever there.

I know I need to reinfuse the bearings as a starting point but frankly, I’m afraid of this step. So I tried another way.

I swapped parts between A and B: belt, motor, keyboard. B is still wowing.

I did’nt swap the main board because the BG are different types and on the B, there is one of those round flat orange capacitor that is not present on the A board. So there comes my questions:

• Can those old trimmers be responsible for fluctuations? I beleive they can cause imprecise adjustment but once they’re set, they’re set, right?
• what can, as th OP asked, cause fluctuations when the usual suspects (belt and motor) have been ruled out.

Thank you for your advices.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

If the question is “in the current range”, Beolab 18: That’s B&O, period. Maybe that 72-22.

If the question is “your favorite in what you own currently”, I think it is my Beosystem 1001 made of BM1001, BC1200, BC2200, BG4002, U70, S45-2 front/C30 Rear. Maybe my simple BC2300 with BL4000 that recently get a new shine compared to 8000’s.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Perfect, all I wanted to know.

Thank you Kolfmaker.

I Will update the forum when I’ll do it.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you for the comprehensive answer. Obviously note the one I was wishing the most!

I’m good to open them and what I fear is the glue the seems to hold the front panels.

I’ll do it as soon as I get or make new foam. In the meantime do you know if not using them will slow down the process (less heat) or as this nothing to do?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Yes, I saw that.

But not in the movie or the web pages.
I reckon the 18’s are more photogenic than any other speaker but they’re also the oldest.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I’ll reply myself:

In the packshot pictures from the media kit (go to “press release” at the bottom of the main site  and browse dates until it appears…) the logo is still there.

But it can’t be seen illuminated in the promo film (which, by the way, can’t be compared with the previous one “Memories” which stands to me as the pinnacle of the B&O promo films.

Another thing that questions me: Why Beolab 18?
I love Beolab 18, and I’m so sad their second hand price don’t drop as fast as I want.
But why 18’s when you know the brutal EOL habits of the brand, the age of those speakers and their, after all, average rendition.

Why not 20’s, or 50’s.

(Note that the press kit include pictures of 50’s as packshot, but not in “lifestyles” shot that for me at least would me the main (marketing) trigger.)

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Did the B&O logo on the sensor arm disappear ?

Location: Paris France

[Author]

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