[matador]

Damn, I didn’t even think to look in the catalogs, stupid me.

Thank you Beozip!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi and welcome to Beoworld.

First of all, replacing the woofer surrounds on the CX100 is not that difficult if you’re a little bit handy or careful. If you’re good with you’re current setup, that would be the better option. The process is very well documented all around the internet, cheap, and kits come ith all you need to do it right.

If you don’t want to do this I’d look at the second hand market for old or less older Beovox: CX range (but be sure to check the surrounds and listen to the speakers) or depending on your tastes, RL, Pentas… On some models same checks apply than for the CX.

Unless you like the look of them, I don’t find BL18 (that I love) will look nice next to a BC8000, less than 8000 if you really want columns. Using standalone systems like levels, Balance or similar is to me, a waste and as you said, not a really convenient solution unless you reaaly want to use the wireless connection as main source.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Steve at Sounds Heavenly wrote:

I’m also hoping to meet with the Classics team to find out more about the Beogram 4000c

Hi Steve, I would like to know how they feel on the recreated Beogram being named “4000c” when any fan/user of the brand obviously can see it is a 4002 basis. Is it a marketing choice  knowing it will “upset” any B&O lover (remember Dillen: “this is not a 4000!…”), but whatever… How do they feel from enthusiasts to enthusiast… Or is it a dark, not obvious but very relevant reason behind this weird choice.

Please ask.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi mojofml,

mojofml wrote:

Looks like I can source the rubber and replace it without too much difficulty!

The rubber, “belt” if thats what you meaning as nothing to do with the symptoms you describe. If the CD load/unload but dont spin it’s more likely a faulty laser eye. Plenty of information about this on the old forum (search for “laser faulty” or similar since it something relvant for many beosound systems from ouverture to 9000).

I’m guessing the rubber had dried up or something and it started to fall off. Is this self-repairable, or what can I do for this? hoping for some good news, thanks!

Another common issue with beolabs 6000, the rubber surround falling appart. It’s a common repair for whoever has those speakers. Can be by yourself but depending on your skills, it can range from easy to nightmare. I consider myself as a handy and caring person but replacing surrounds on 6000’s woofer was not a sweet experience. Nevertheless, plenty of tutorials around, quite cheap repair and all in all, easy.

Good luck.

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi.

I’m not sure to understand your issue well. But if it is something like “the solenoid makes a scratching noise when activated”, I think it’s a common failure for those decks to have the core of the solenoid, twisted and then seized into the coils. I remember something like that.

Google Beogram 5500 repair, and you should find more info on this.

SOrry if this is not related to your problem.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Die_Bogener wrote:

I’m back. We can make a simple step by step description how to modify the preamp. Big pictures do not work here… the upload of the circuit plan does not work… Martin

Hi Die Bogener and thank you for coming back and making it again!

Pictures never have been easier to insert compared to the previous forum. I’m not aware of size limitation and I always reduce the pictures I post to around 1000px on the largest border. If you have difficulties posting pictures and because I beleive they can really help in that specific topic, please reach any moderator or report the issue in the dedicated topic.

Thank you again.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Stereomensch wrote:

@Die Bogener: Was läuft denn über den Pre-Amp?

Being in the general section of the forum and the original question being in english, could you please keep it that way for the understanding of alls? Thank you.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Guy wrote:

my B&O collection is currently in these boxes…

Looking forward plenty of “unboxing” vids!       🙂

Location: Paris France

[matador]

On the move with yougtimers – Beoplay A3 & iPad 1.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Yes, I think I’ve seen those kits on ebay some time ago.
They came after a search for wooden frets for 8000’s – same kind of mod to me :BL18 look alike.

If I recall well they were available for BL6000 too.

As Millemissen, I wonder how they can actually “upgrade” the 8000’s sound, but as lot of people as them for the style only part of me can understand.

I aslo find 8000’s with wooden grills but without ALT looks weird and unbalanced: that may be an answer for this, without altering the sound of 8000 by ot moving the actual tweeter.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Robert_A wrote:

amazing that you saw that!

Yes, I’m good at this.

By the way what is that funny television set? 😀

Location: Paris France

[matador]

EgonOlsen wrote:

Depeche Mode, live Spirits Soundtrack cd

Man, did you ever heard about autopositioning? You can be banned from Beoworld for that. Please take care in the future and respect all beoworld readers!

😉

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Robert_A wrote:

Nor a fake wall. It’s a 122 year old wall that I opened and closed again for the cabels. Here you have pictures:

Is that wall, Farrow& Ball N°298 “Bancha”?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

moxxey wrote:

Interesting thing is, what would be the speakers we’d choose to flank the Theatre as the smallest/cheapest are now the BL18’s!

Two churches:

One will rush in the nearby dealer an buy 18’s or 28’s or maybe biggest…

The other will carefully follow second hand market for the usual suspects (4000’s, 6000’s, 8000’s and… 17’s, 18’s)

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you Steve,

Perfect comprehensive answer.

Regards, M.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Millemissen,

When you quote someone’s post you may want to unclic the “Block quote” button in the toolbar after a carriage return to have your message displayed as a plain message.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

They are various threads in the old forum 12-22 and one in the current one you’re reading now about the Century and the IR. None of the solution provide help mine to respond to the remote and I believe so far my IR PCB is dead. Maybe that’s your case too. Unfortunately it seems to be various models of IR board that make it difficult to find a solution.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Guy wrote:

Yes they can be temperamental – sometimes you just have to keep trying!

“Temperamental”, that’s the word: this morning, out of the blue and just unplugging the base from the box, the handset and the base started to chat again. Without any registering procedure or pincode. Landline is up and running again and I wont touch anything anytime soon.

Thank you Guy for the help and support.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

DECT can’t be deactivated.

Is it possible the HS see the base because it can receive data but can’t register the pincode because it’s unable to send data due to faulty RF chip ?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Further investigations:

I tried to register the handset, this time looking carefully to the numbers shown:

I recognized the Beocom base PSTN number > entered 0000 as pincode > got error.

Reset the handset. disconnect the PSTN Base PSU.

Tried to pair with the Internet box:

Saw a different PSTN number > entered the known pincode > Got error again.

Reset the handset, tried again with Beocom PSTN base after it had no power for several minutes. Got same error as above.

In the administration page of my box a DECT1 handset shown briefly.

I believe the handset is faulty like he can see bases but is unable to communicate with them.

Does it make sense?

Location: Paris France

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