[matador]

Yes… I’ve often told it but B&O market here is crazy: people often don’t even know what they sell but put hight prices just because some dark mysterious black box is labelled B&O ar sometimes because you have interest in it…

To be fair sometimes it’s the other way around and I’ve myself have had the chance of incredible bargains sometimes. But all in all it doesn’t seem to be a market as even or realistic as it seem to be in UK or the northern countries.

I’m not in a hurry, I’ll wait.

Ah, and about the PC2, I suspected that answer, so don’t bother spending time on experience but thank you anyway.

Enjoy your evening…

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thanks MM.

I know that one but i’d like to understand how these speaker works.

But while we’re at this, you remind me a question I forgot to ask:
Will ant 1611 works? I think I remember vaguely they were serial number or SW version limitation, no?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Guy,

I’ve read the link (I now have the 3500 and want it standalone more than ever!) and your post carefully. I still wonder if you think or know if the PC2 could act as an audiomaster for the beolab 3500 as it, disconnected from any computer and just using the line in, preferably without IR eye. Even if it would need to be connected to a computer for setup it deosnt matter, what I would like to know is if after that it could work by itself to drive the 3500.

The reason is that 1611 converter are not a lot around and even less in my prices but PC2 comes from time to time for cheap.

Thanks in advance and merry Christmas.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi KolfMAKER,

Did you find anything new ? I’ve found two Beolab 3500 and like to investigate a way of making them really standalone.

Let’s play with those things and give them a new life!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Glitch wrote:

Could you put a piece of black electrical tape on the lip?

It would be difficult I think because the lip is a tight fit under the main plate and down to these level, electrical tape is quite thick.

What I did is to cut a square rubber belt and tuck it in the groove: absolutely reversible, no arm to any part, quickly removable in case of an unexpected hardcore beo-lover visit,  and to my eyes, better looking.

In fact, possibly better looking for B&O marketing people too, as they did emphasis (with photoshop) those black separation in every picture of the Beogram 4000c.

Thank you to everyone who gives is view.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi and welcome to Beoworld,

See here, have a drink and take a deep breath, Its just two hard hours.   😀

Alternatively, you can also search in this or better, in the old forum. They’re a lot of thread about laser replacement and the usual issues that may arise (whistling laser, incompatible ones even if the reference is good…)

It’s a common issue with plenty of solutions.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Dillen wrote:

So is the light at the speed dial. Looks all LED’ish.

Picture effect: light are usual lamps and shines orangish in real.

Dillen wrote:

Can’t your panels align properly?

They are as much as they can in the three dimensions. The shining line is from the “lip” from the upper right plate that goes under the main table.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

AdamS wrote:

I think the first picture looks better, too, but it’s irrelevant as the cartridge is the wrong colour in both pictures! :o)

Yeah, I know that and it’s hurting my eyes, but we have the cartridge we can…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

No solution but same problem here…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Lemme,

Once the STL generated I didnt kept the original 3D file (which was Cinema 4D BTW).
But I think you can “de-construct” the .STL file, I’ve checked it with CAD Assistant and all the parts are visible and do not look like merged.

Actually, adjusting the witness of the slots is the worst and more complicated part of the whole design, at least with the tools I had at hand. So the slots were roughly designed flat with… the dashed line tool in a vector design software (!), adjusted to be centered and then extruded in 3D. I remember that adding a slot, adjusting the size of it or moving them one side or another made instantaneously a mess.

My advice if I may: use your 5mm wood fret, mark where the touch the clamps and correct the witness with a file just on the rear part of the lamella. I had to do this for two or three sticks that were beyond tolerance (wood is sold for 4mm +/- 2%).

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

RosenRot88 wrote:

Hi guys Something wrong with STL file. When I import in cura or other slicer. dimensions are small, like 2mm in hight small. Also STLs in folder are corrupted and wont open. Can you resend files please Thanks and regards

Hi,

Read the whole thread. depending on your software you may need to scale it by 10’s factor.

The STL’s have been checked tonight and look ok. Given no other member have report problem and some have even already printed them, I let you investigate from your side.

Regards.

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

A long awaited one…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Beo911 wrote:

Your place?

Valve1 wrote:

Bravo Matador !

These are 3D renderings and not from me but from Yanko Design.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

XavierItzmann wrote:

I am using cheap $80 Wiim streamers

ebnrob wrote:

I have a few Wiim minis – they’re great little streamers.

Hi alls and apologies to the OP for interrupting.

Could those Wiim mini stream from their aux in to usual airplay device like Airport express boxes? From the user guide I understand they can from Wiim to Wiim but I wonder if an usual Airplay network can catch the stream also. Thank you.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

Here and here

I believe (but I don’t know for sure) that MK2 with traditional dustcap woofer sounds better.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

MW05 wrote:

I have a second defect Ouverture (Tape and CD broken),

Hi And Apologies for the English language.

Tape and Cd broker may be both an easy fix: belt for the cassette and deep cleaning for the CD. Those units appears to be very reliable…

Just in case…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Mark-sf wrote:

A relay’s contacts can corrode over the decades especially when not hermetically sealed. This introduces a variable resistance which causes the speed variation. One can affect a temporary fix by carefully cleaning the contacts since the cover is removable; however, this is only a temporary fix and its very easy to bend the thin contact supports making it worse.

Hi Mark and everybody,

I’m feed up with all those album reissue at 45 rpm but when I found one I really wanted, I thought I must have something done about my 45′ speed problem.

Still not brave enough to replace the relay I decide to clean it with a strip of paper soaked in electric contact cleaner like Dillen taught us all.

Speed problem solved for now! Thank you everybody and especially Mark and Martin.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Martin, what is “Chartol”, please?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I got my copy yesterday: it’s more orange than the vivd red I thought it gonna be and the sleeve more matt than  YannChris one.

Anyway, it did go into a plastic sleeve protector that does not allow to open the gatefold.

So I compiled the instructions notes into this mini guide. If anybody is interested you just need to print it recto-verso on a plain sheet of paper (A4, but letter should do) and fold it.

Hope this helps…

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Here are some other brochure Gary shared and the missing one in the lineup, the one on Beovox Loudspeakers.

Location: Paris France

[Author]

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