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ModeratorI will try to message FrançoisVL.
About OneRemote VSNUT, ASNUT (but there is also LSNUT and PCSNUT…) cables, I may be wrong but I doubt the cable will change something unless it is related with something inside their radio device. I mean how can anything that fit inside those plugs change four times the behavior of a cable and moreover without anyone on Beoworld knowing this?
Yes, having say A.V.AUX on the screen would be better than TV. But the source being in the Beo4 virtual button list defeat the whole purpose of a “one key start”. The screen will display what it will display: it will never be AIRPLAY or MUSIC, and if TV keeps showing up, I’ll rather put a black strip inside the display cover which would be a shame because I find this dotted display gorgeous.
I believe they’re is enought knowledge in this forum to hack that speaker: remember a member (maybe Keith?) that corrupts an ouverture firmware to make it display IPOD instead of A.AUX? Or that guy that upgrade a full white Beomaster 7000 with Airplay, Bluetooth, DAB+ and I dont know whats more, all in an perfectly integrated pizza box element? Or more recently, Pilatomic bringing back the Beolink 5000 from outer world ? Old times…
Location: Paris FranceIf I can find my 1611
It’s in a box somewhere…. 😉
Science project for both of us!
Location: Paris FranceStill investigating…
OneRemote sells a Radio Multi Receiver that connects to a Masterlink installation through a 1611 converter. But depending on the cable used to connect it to the converter, it seems it appears as audio source or video source. Cables are VSNUT and ASNUT. Cables being all the same price I wonder if it’s a marketing trick or if there simply something in the socket, like a resistor between the two datalink pins, that fools the converter.
Another lead: connecting it to an Audio Unit like Guy suggested, let him autoconfig and power it off. Then connect it to the Beolab 3500 but without letting him autoconfig, which would be something like powering the converter first and the Beolab after…
Will try this tomorrow and report.
Location: Paris FranceToo bad… Thanks Guy.
Location: Paris FranceThe 1611 auto-configures to a video- or audio-master when power is applied
Then I won’t! Now I’ve a converter (and I still need another one) I won’t lose it!
But I’ll still try how it works when the autoconfig detects and Audiomaster like the 2300.
That’s an interesting lead.That makes me also wonder: I’ve read the Powerlink socket just carry the trigger signal for use in certain configurations. What if I send him a 5v when powering it on? Wouldn’t make it think it is connected in an audio config?
Location: Paris FranceOk, Thank you Guy for all these details. The AV thing makes sense now.
It’s really sad there isn’t any “easy” way to use the Beolab 3500 MK2 (seems that MCL models can be trigger with 5V) as a simple standalone speaker.
I am quite impressed with the sound; of course not as much bass than Beolab 4000 but I expected a more thin sound.Location: Paris FranceOf course this would only potentially reduce button presses for a Beo4, and only if you can set it in permanent LINK mode.
Yes that could be interesting to have the Beolab 3500 with it’s own remote in a same room that use another “general” Beoremote. Even if the Beo4 is in link mode you can still send traditional commands right?
Location: Paris FranceOh, and another thing, sorry: when I press the mute button it goes straight to RADIO, not the last source, which was TV. Any chance to change that?
Thanks.
Location: Paris Francewhy should a ‘pure’ audio command not work?
I think that too, but after reading old post from BW2, I must have confuse things.
The guy speaking of “any source” was RaMaBo and in fact, he wrote “any Video source like DTV, V.MEM, TV, etc…”Now what I still dont understand is why I need to press AV before.
Using the A/V function/button before you hit a video button however, means that you adress an audio source.
Ok I get that, I use this command on a BV6 to start just the sound without the picture.
But why don’t I hear the sound when pressing TV only? Shouldn’t it bring picture (on no screen) AND sound?That is a sophisticated setup – but probably a bit over the top of what Matador has aimed at.
Indeed!
PS: No MCL Master. A BC2300?
Location: Paris FranceCongratulations on the 1611 purchase – a very useful bit of kit!
Thank you Guy,
I know you’re quite a fan of all those mysterious (or not so) black boxes, but honestly, a Beolink converter is not the piece of B&O I was expecting to be congratulated for! 🙂
It’s not the LINK key that I must depress, it’s the AV. On the Beolink 5000, where there is a LINK key, I’ve tried LINK+TV. Didnt work, must be A/V+TV.
Location: Paris FranceThere could be a different solution for you.
Interesting. I too would like to hear how it turns. But for now, its a little bit over… me.
I’m not an NL or ever ML guy and right now I just want to go for the cheaper: a converter, the Lab 3500 and an airport base.But Id like to know more about the ML power box: would it work as an audiometer by itself or does it need the NL/ML converter ?
Thanks
Location: Paris FranceYou’re right, after reading the manual again it looks like they are talking about the main systems.
I powered the converter last as you already mentioned it in various topics.
So for you, now way of triggering it with any key other than AV+TV, right?
Location: Paris FranceHi KolfMaker,
Thats the one I would like, Yes.
I’ve still not seen one for sale around but I was told they’re quite expensive.
There is a wall stand for sale in local ads and it’s around 60€, that is more that I paid for the two 3500.That’s when finding bargain B&O stuff dont helps you ! 🙂
BTW, stil no luck in fixing the powerlink input, but if the 3500 from your friend is an MCL model, you should try the 5V trick!
Regards.
Location: Paris FranceThe Midwich Cuckoos aka Invasion of the Beosnatchers…
Location: Paris FranceMerci d’être revenu nous donner la solution. Profitez bien de votre nouveau Beoviseur !
Location: Paris FranceI’ll add all the files to the first post.
Location: Paris FrancePfffewwww…
Thank you Guy and guys!
Location: Paris FranceYes, that’s the one I was talking about. Did’nt want to post it without permission but now it’s there that’s the one.
Search on Beoworld often return this limitation, but don’t say what happen if its not SW 3.1.
Location: Paris FranceHi,
I’d like to chime in even if my point of view may not be useful at a all.
I entered the world of vinyl records just because Beograms were beautiful.
Not because records sounds better or whatever else.Of course quickly came the question of “what if my cartridge is just not good?”
And even if sometimes, on certains records, I found the sound pleasant, good, nice… I’ll always going to have that little voice in my head: “maybe your cartridge is just not good”.Reading around people who are blown away with cartridges that cost a lot or using words you would never use to describe music didn’t help.
Also reading about all that can turn wrong in a cartridge (stone, cantilever, suspension, coil…) didn’t help either.
Then I had the opportunity to have MMC4 rebuilt by a reputable man, who’s work can’t be questioned. I was exited to listen to those “like new” cartridges, with new diamond and new rubber. I put them on, put a record and what I heard was… Music.
The same that with my old SP10, SP14, SP12 and not better than my recent old MMC20S.Just music, good enough, I mean I can hear the difference with a CD or a digital file but music with the added pleasure of seing it spinning and holding the sleeve and so on.
But honestly, in the different cartridge families I could listen to, their condition and their quality level, I never heard any major difference.
I’m not saying they do not exist and that a trained or used ear can make a substantial difference between them. But I may be fuzzy, I want just to say that sometimes its more about hype than music. And forums don’t help: they are so much things that can change the music between the tip of the diamond and the sound in your head: deck condition, preamplifier, amplifier, speakers, power cords (this one is for you M), room acoustics…
I let it go. As long as I can listen to music and have a spare cartridge just in case, it’s good for me. I’d like to have an MMC20EN for my deck, yes, but it’s only because it is silver.
And maybe if it happens, I could wake up in a different world that will make me consider this whole post as stupid, maybe… But, I doubt.With all due respect to those who ear a difference.
Location: Paris FranceOk, I surrender and have a 1611 converter on the road . But…
I vaguely remember and a drawing from our old funky pal Peter Pan seems to confirm that the box MUST be SW 3.1. Mine (my future) is SW 1.3.
What should I expect from this?
Thank you!
Location: Paris France -
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