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To address this you need to upload a picture that actually shows the arm skew you are referring to. It’s not clear whether both arms are skewed or just the tonearm. The arm movement adjustment only governs the perpendicularity of the arm to the grove as it plays the record and is not a factor when the arm is cued up.
While I don’t have any 6000 leads, you can also look for a 4002 with an MMC6000 cartridge and a CD4 board. You probably have a better chance. However, your biggest issue will be finding a functioning cartridge. Soundsmith can retip them though at $600 is not cheap.
You only need to desolder the two larger pads at 12 and 6 o’clock.
If you need to lubricate, remove the dustcover and then the tonearm cover can be lifted straight up to gain access the dial and gear. At that point you can check the balance of the arm and the rear counterweight adjustment. You should not need to track at 1.2g. Sometimes the arm cover can get pushed so that it binds the arm. Its height should allow the screw to be centered and the arm to move freely when lowered.
The extra pins in the 7-pin one carry the Datalink signal to Beomaster receivers for remote control. The pins can be unscrewed to use with a DIN-RCA adaptor.
The platter lifts off to replace the drive belt. You need the right one which is available from beoparts.com.
It’s easiest to remove the power supply whole as it’s carrier is secured with screws from the bottom.
It appears you are not getting DC voltage from the regulator on PC Bd #2. I would disconnect connector P3 and measure the DC voltage on the input and output of the regulator, IC1. Either C3 or C4 could be a problem but id the fuse is not blowing, I would expect the regulator has opened. It’s not likely the solenoid unless you hear it activate when simply plugging in the power cord. Then either TR4 or 5 could be shorted.
If you are getting 12v at the anode of D1 then pressing Play should cause pin 10 to go high and turn it on. Please confirm you see 5v on that pin.
You should also reflow the connector’s solder joints as these are notorious for developing fractured connections.
Thanks for the video. Some of what you are observing is normal. For example, the 33 button record clean function ONLY works when the arm has not left its home position. Also, the single arrow buttons do NOT work until the tonearm has left the home position. Finally, the >> and << and >> do not need to be held down.
The two major problems I see are the following:
- The return servo motor direction is not functional as it should not only engage when you press and hold > or press >> but also when it gets to the center endpoint.
- Your solenoid is engaging but not holding as it’s there to keep the tonearm lowered. This means that there is an insufficient voltage on the coil when it switches to its “hold” mode.
These are likely independent, and you have multiple issues. Go back to the servo motor circuit for #1 and the Solenoid circuit made up of TR9,10 and IC4 and its caps.
Quite frankly as long as the female connector is also clean, I would not worry about it coming back. You likely didn’t have rust but oxidation and the connections should be fine.
You will need to open the top and remove the front panel as if I remember the switch assemblies are board mounted. Once you have access, you can see what is hanging up the interlock mechanism.
Yes it is.
Diodes like transistors typically cannot be measured without being removed as you are measuring resistance of their circuit.
When I have painted aluminum I’ve used a self-etching primer. However, you obviously are going to need to remove the old paint first which may need to be sanded. Given the dings, that’s probably required along with a filler If you have a paint booth for your air sprayer that’s how I’d try. Nice DIY project if you take your time.
Glad it worked out. I don’t know about a new string but belts and other spare parts are reliably available from https://www.beoparts-shop.com/. If you can’t find the “string” you can make a new one using tuning dial cord.
It’s likely that the tensioned string that moves the arm has broken or come untracked. There are instructions at the end of the service manual at https://beomanuals.com/manuals/Beogram/Beogram%209500/Beogram_9500-Service_Manual-version2.pdf
on replacing and adjusting.
I am having trouble parsing the symptoms you are reporting. In normal operation, simply pressing start momentarily will cause the tonearm to move to the edge of the record and lower. If you press and hold then it will continue past that point until you release. Pressing 33 should just cause the turntable to spin for cleaning without the arm moving. If it is then you may have a shorted transistor in the servo motor control section. You can see a table of voltages on the schematic available at (removed reference to external manual)
If you are referring to the resisters in the lower right where the board is darkened, those are 1/4w resistors which are typically 6.5mm in length. You will not find a replacement parts kit that includes standard resistors. I would check their values with a meter as even though the board is discolored most are probably fine when the resistor itself is not blackened in the middle.
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