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BRONZE MemberDoes the platter spin once the arm has moved towards the center? Does the arm respond to the cueing control when it has moved inward? Does the 33 speed adjust light illuminate? Given its age, if the above answers are all no, then it’s likely the electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced as there is insufficient voltage. There may be additional issues but until power is restored one can’t say.
I agree with B&O’s assessment as it could be either the tweeters or their amps or both depending on the nature of the failure. This can happen if played too loud for too long with a lot of high frequency content, a transient passed thru the system, or simply a part failed which can be age or heat related or simply an impurity that finally caused a failure. Bottom line is to have a B&O Service Center fix it as it definitely is worth fixing.
Dave, what you may be remembering is that the remote control of the turntable was specific to the Beomaster system using Datalink. This required using a 7-Pin DIN cable to the compatible receiver. There is no issue with the audio.
While I cannot help you with a service location, since parts are no longer available from B&O directly, you don’t need to go to a B&O dealer for service. Perhaps if you describe the specific nature of your 4002 failure, I can assist you in self-service.
Your cartridge will not be able to be repaired at a service center. Since you are in the U.S. I recommend checking out sound-smith.com as Peter does excellent work.
If all you are concerned with is amplification, then almost any Beogram will work as their phono cartridge outputs are similar. However, your 4002 is worth servicing and you are going to need a new/re-tipped cartridge anyway.
Unfortunately, I don’t know how this can be fixed without a new head and wiring which at this point means a new arm.
I should have been clearer regarding “continuity”. You will not see 0 ohms but there will be a resistance vs. an open circuit. If your meter is not Auto-Ranging, you may have to change to a higher range to observe this resistance which should be ~1K Ohms.
Both those bulbs are bad if you do not have continuity from them. If you want to confirm before ordering, this lamp is the same one that illuminates the 33 and 45 speed adjustment.
I would start with the power supply and check if you ar getting the full 12.5V when the motor is trying to run. I would also consider replacing C1, C3, C4, and C5.
The Primary and Secondary keyboards use the same logic through different decoder ICs and connect to the CPU. You should perform the same test with the P81 connector of the Secondary keyboard as that has the door control buttons. The Primary has the direct CD access buttons which I assume is what you meant by “cd allocation buttons”.
@Mark-fs: what does put a scope mean?
Scope means oscilloscope. Since the remote is working, likely the CPU is fine. The keyboard interfaces with the CPU with a decoder/demux chip using 5v logic. Since you don’t have a scope, I would disconnect the keyboard and check for switch continuity between the matrix of connections on P72 as well as its soldered connections.
I would focus on the Primary Keyboard and put a scope P72 or P12 connector and check that the signal correct routing occurs when each button is pressed.
Are you able to lower the tonearm manually with Play after moving it with the arrows? Does it play the record that way?
Thank you for responding. The Beogram 1700 appears not to have a “stop” control-button, like the 1900/1902; a strange omission in my view. Now you have to touch the tonearm to return it after pushing “pauze”.
You are correct. The only automatic arm movements supported are starting and end of record. Pause assumes you are going to manually move the tonearm so if you want to end a record early you do it manually through Pause.
As I recall from being a dealer back then, the 10E was a transition cartridge that started with the Beogram 1602, which followed the 2400 which had an MMC4000 cartridge. I believe there was the option to go with the 20EN as the 10E is a bonded diamond.
Would that explain why I’m not getting any signal even when I bring the arm over manually and drop the tone arm?
Yes as the mute switch has not disengaged.
You can use an MMC20E (bonded elliptical) or MMC20EN (nude elliptical). There is also the top MMC20CL but I that would set you back more than the whole unit.
I have always used variacs while monitoring the current. I assume you meant that one side of the fuse was not making contact.
While you are at it I would also replace that cap.
The high voltage on the 5V+ sounds to me like its not being normally loaded as the 6.2V zener at D20 is setting its max. This is reinforced by your previous report of 5.06V output. I would definitely start by examining its fanout presence to its loads.
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