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BRONZE MemberThe easiest first check is to make sure your counterweight has not moved. Is the arm able to go down by adding more tracking force?
Welcome to the forum! You can find the service manual online which describes testing for the detection signal. If you are not comfortable with soldering and desoldering I would fine someone that is. While replacing caps and relays is called for as a general restoration strategy nothing is harmed to wait for a failure if it’s working fine. You can even live with the detection issue if it’s not simply an adjustment.
That paint is not conductive as it only needs to be non-reflective. I don’t have a specific recommendation as B&O never published this to my knowledge.
A Beogram 1900 would be a less expensive option and still have the squared form factor and matching finish.
Welcome! Your problem is likely the amp and not the turnable. Which amp do you have the speakers plugged into? Can you describe the nature of the noise (hum, hiss, thumps, etc)? Does it have a headphone jack you can try? If so do you hear the same noise?
Dave, my recommendation regarding Sound-Smith was only for re-tipping the cartridge. Your other answers indicate the presence of potentially more than one problem. In your original post you stated that it stopped moving last week. Was it in regular use up to that point or had it been unused for a significant period of time? Before recommending a repair approach, since you’ve already been inside:
1. Do you have a VOM?
2. Do you have any soldering/desoldering experience or skills?
3. Have you ever used a circuit diagram?
If the above answer are all no, then your best bet would be 3rd-party repair. The Service Manual is online and it does not need to be repaired by a B&O service shop. Any reputable audio equipment technician should be able to fix this and they could even post here for guidance. However, you need to decide whether the cost of a re-tip plus such a repair is worth it to you versus selling it “for parts or repair” online? In yours condition they still go for $200-$300 assuming its cosmetic shape is good..
The hardest part of a B&O repair is taking it apart so it goes back together!
19 January 2023 at 00:28 in reply to: Beogram 1700 adjusments – wow and flutter parallelism speed #43042If putting such a weight on it is not disrupting its suspension and belt running location, then its suspension height is not correctly adjusted. Such a weight requires readjustment to compensate. Non-suspended turntables such as direct drives do not have this requirement. The WFGUI with a test record and the DIN filter should better reflect the true performance. If you get a good belt and everything is adjusted properly and still seeing W/F>.2 then I would suspect the motor bearings may need a new oill suffusion or replacment.
18 January 2023 at 17:54 in reply to: Beogram 1700 adjusments – wow and flutter parallelism speed #43039First you should note that your phone is heavy relative to a record and this will negatively impact the WF test on most beograms due to their lightweight construction, floating suspension and low torque. To use that app you need to readjust the suspension so it’s free and level when the phone is centered over the spindle and that the belt is centered on the pulley and platter. You should also also make sure the motor pulley and platter edge are clean. Finally, unless you got the belt from a legitimate B&O parts site, I would suspect it.
Your problem has nothing to do with the control panel switches. The problem is typically with the solenoid that raises the arm or the pivot point is gummed up. These should be disassembled, cleaned and aligned. You also may need to demagnetize the rod in the solenoid.
Does the platter spin once the arm has moved towards the center? Does the arm respond to the cueing control when it has moved inward? Does the 33 speed adjust light illuminate? Given its age, if the above answers are all no, then it’s likely the electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced as there is insufficient voltage. There may be additional issues but until power is restored one can’t say.
I agree with B&O’s assessment as it could be either the tweeters or their amps or both depending on the nature of the failure. This can happen if played too loud for too long with a lot of high frequency content, a transient passed thru the system, or simply a part failed which can be age or heat related or simply an impurity that finally caused a failure. Bottom line is to have a B&O Service Center fix it as it definitely is worth fixing.
Dave, what you may be remembering is that the remote control of the turntable was specific to the Beomaster system using Datalink. This required using a 7-Pin DIN cable to the compatible receiver. There is no issue with the audio.
While I cannot help you with a service location, since parts are no longer available from B&O directly, you don’t need to go to a B&O dealer for service. Perhaps if you describe the specific nature of your 4002 failure, I can assist you in self-service.
Your cartridge will not be able to be repaired at a service center. Since you are in the U.S. I recommend checking out sound-smith.com as Peter does excellent work.
If all you are concerned with is amplification, then almost any Beogram will work as their phono cartridge outputs are similar. However, your 4002 is worth servicing and you are going to need a new/re-tipped cartridge anyway.
Unfortunately, I don’t know how this can be fixed without a new head and wiring which at this point means a new arm.
I should have been clearer regarding “continuity”. You will not see 0 ohms but there will be a resistance vs. an open circuit. If your meter is not Auto-Ranging, you may have to change to a higher range to observe this resistance which should be ~1K Ohms.
Both those bulbs are bad if you do not have continuity from them. If you want to confirm before ordering, this lamp is the same one that illuminates the 33 and 45 speed adjustment.
I would start with the power supply and check if you ar getting the full 12.5V when the motor is trying to run. I would also consider replacing C1, C3, C4, and C5.
The Primary and Secondary keyboards use the same logic through different decoder ICs and connect to the CPU. You should perform the same test with the P81 connector of the Secondary keyboard as that has the door control buttons. The Primary has the direct CD access buttons which I assume is what you meant by “cd allocation buttons”.
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