[Mark-sf]

Echodog wrote:

Would that explain why I’m not getting any signal even when I bring the arm over manually and drop the tone arm?

Yes as the mute switch has not disengaged.

 

[Mark-sf]

You can use an MMC20E (bonded elliptical) or MMC20EN (nude elliptical). There is also the top MMC20CL but I that would set you back more than the whole unit.

[Mark-sf]

I have always used variacs while monitoring the current. I assume you meant that one side of the fuse was not making contact.

[Mark-sf]

While you are at it I would also replace that cap.

[Mark-sf]

The high voltage on the 5V+ sounds to me like its not being normally loaded as the 6.2V zener at D20 is setting its max. This is reinforced by your previous report of 5.06V output. I would definitely start by examining its fanout presence to its loads.

[Mark-sf]

What do you mean by “physical movement around the turntable”?

[Mark-sf]

In addition to the muting switch, you may have a DC offset issue with your phono section. Is the piping only in one channel or both?

[Mark-sf]

First I would loosen the set screw in the black endcap to release trapped air. If that doesnt help then applying a penetrating oil/WD40 and leeting it soak should free it.

[Mark-sf]

To address this you need to upload a picture that actually shows the arm skew you are referring to. It’s not clear whether both arms are skewed or just the tonearm. The arm movement adjustment only governs the perpendicularity of the arm to the grove as it plays the record and is not a factor when the arm is cued up.

[Mark-sf]

While I don’t have any 6000 leads, you can also look for a 4002 with an MMC6000 cartridge and a CD4 board. You probably have a better chance. However, your biggest issue will be finding a functioning cartridge. Soundsmith can retip them though at $600 is not cheap.

[Mark-sf]

You only need to desolder the two larger pads at 12 and 6 o’clock.

[Mark-sf]

If you need to lubricate, remove the dustcover and then the tonearm cover can be lifted straight up to gain access the dial and gear. At that point you can check the balance of the arm and the rear counterweight adjustment. You should not need to track at 1.2g. Sometimes the arm cover can get pushed so that it binds the arm. Its height should allow the screw to be centered and the arm to move freely when lowered.

[Mark-sf]

The extra pins in the 7-pin one carry the Datalink signal to Beomaster receivers for remote control. The pins can be unscrewed to use with a DIN-RCA adaptor.

[Mark-sf]

The platter lifts off to replace the drive belt. You need the right one which is available from beoparts.com.

[Mark-sf]

It’s easiest to remove the power supply whole as it’s carrier is secured with screws from the bottom.

[Mark-sf]

It appears you are not getting DC voltage from the regulator on PC Bd #2. I would disconnect  connector P3 and measure the DC voltage on the input and output of the regulator, IC1. Either C3 or C4 could be a problem but id the fuse is not blowing, I would expect the regulator has opened. It’s not likely the solenoid unless you hear it activate when simply plugging in the power cord. Then either TR4 or 5 could be shorted.

[Mark-sf]

If you are getting 12v at the anode of D1 then pressing Play should cause pin 10 to go high and turn it on. Please confirm you see 5v on that pin.

[Mark-sf]

You should also reflow the connector’s solder joints as these are notorious for developing fractured connections.

[Mark-sf]

Thanks for the video. Some of what you are observing is normal. For example, the 33 button record clean function ONLY works when the arm has not left its home position. Also, the single arrow buttons do NOT work until the tonearm has left the home position. Finally, the >> and << and >> do not need to be held down.

The two major problems I see are the following:

1. The return servo motor direction is not functional as it should not only engage when you press and hold > or press >> but also when it gets to the center endpoint.
2. Your solenoid is engaging but not holding as it’s there to keep the tonearm lowered. This means that there is an insufficient voltage on the coil when it switches to its “hold” mode.

These are likely independent, and you have multiple issues. Go back to the servo motor circuit for #1 and the Solenoid circuit made up of TR9,10 and IC4 and its caps.

[Mark-sf]

Quite frankly as long as the female connector is also clean, I would not worry about it coming back. You likely didn’t have rust but oxidation and the connections should be fine.

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