[Madskp]

Madskp wrote:

matador wrote:

Congratulations too. First thing to try would be the 5v trick on the MCL port. Once Again, they guy on reddit swear it works but we have yet to see!

I most certanly will try various combinations of this

ok so just troed to apply 5V to the following pin combinations on the BL3500’s MCL connector

Pin 1 and 7

Pin 3 and 6

Pin 6 and 7

No reaction at all on any of these. Did we have other combinations in play?

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Madskp wrote:

And there you go. an extra input that can be chosen by any audio command that is not used for a datalink unit connected to the DIN inputs.

That’s useful! So as a ‘stand-alone’ the MCL2AV can have 4 selectable inputs if you include the AUX/TV socket (using ‘AV TV’). And the MCL input is a one-button-press selection. Does your test above have the AUX/TV socket connected to BL1611 etc, or is that to follow?

this was tested with the entire chain, MCL2AV – 1611 – BC6. Of course Ill also have to test it with my new BL3500 when I have a little more time for testing.

As I see it the total number of inputs for a BL3500 could be five with this setup:

– 1 MCL input on MCL on MCL2AV selectable with any audio command not used for other inputs

– 2 DIN inputs on MCL2AV selectable with shift+radio+6/7 or a.tape/CD if its data link products.

– 1 Din splitter input on the 1611 selectable with any video command

– 1 MCL/PL input on the BL3500 selectable with (menu) + menu + 0 + 4 +GO

 

[Madskp]

tb59427 wrote:

Madskp wrote:

…

The setup would look something like this: BM5 -ML- 1611 -7 pin Datalink- MCL2AV – Beogram/Beocord

Yeah, I’ve been following this thread with a mixture of amusement, fascination and sheer respect for the amount of knowledge present in this community. I have started to put out searches in ebay classifieds to see whether I can source the components at reasonable prices to also build such a setup.

great to hear that orhers are also following our little black box adventure ? let us know if you needany input.

one buying advice for the MCL2AV is try to get one with the original power supply to be sure it has the right polarity on the power connector

[Madskp]

Madskp wrote:
Thanks for testing this. So the fifth audio input for the BL3500 is not an option. Might also have been overkill

Madskp wrote:

I already tested the BL3500 with a minijack to MCL connector special cable, and its working fine so probably ready to go into the testing setup.

Got a crazy idea. If the MCL input on the BL3500 can be used with line level signals the MCL input of the MCL2AV’s could probably also do that?

Quick testing with some cable with phone plugs, and connected my iPhone for sound input

And there you go. an extra input that can be chosen by any audio command that is not used for a datalink unit connected to the DIN inputs.

The other inputs can still be used with shift+radio+6/7 or the respective audio command if it’s a datalink unit.

Im not sure if the sound is a little lower, but didn’t have time to make a head to head comparison with the same source on other inputs right now.

will followup on this at a later point

 

[Madskp]

Millemissen wrote:

Right! However, the easiest way would be to use one of these

I agree with Millemissen that it is probably a simpler solution, as my solution is untested. Also if you only need one input and only ocassionally need the other unit my solution might be overkill

[Madskp]

tb59427 wrote:

1. I still have an old BeoGram and TapeDeck that I would like to connect to the BM 5. How does that work. The manual is kinda fluffy about the USB Adapter needed. Anyone out there can shed some light on this?

Not knowing the USB another idea comes to mind when you want both a Beogram and a tape deck connected. In this lengthy thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/12/#post-15630 we are experimenting with alternative use of some of B&O’s “black boxes”. We have confirmed that a combination of the 1611 Beolink converter and the MCL2AV can give access to two inputs (tape and CD) on the MCL2AV from a Beolab 2000, Beolab 3500 and from a masterlinked TV. However we haven’t had the chance to confirm if this also will work from a Masterlinked Beosound/Beomaster.

The setup would look something like this:

BM5 -ML- 1611 -7 pin Datalink- MCL2AV – Beogram/Beocord

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

Congratulations too. First thing to try would be the 5v trick on the MCL port. Once Again, they guy on reddit swear it works but we have yet to see!

I most certanly will try various combinations of this

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Excellent purchase – and a long ML cable as well which will help with two-room setups. Looking forward to seeing some test results!

yes the long ML cable was an added bonus as well as a bunch of PL cables and the 2 BEO4’s.

I wont have time for testing the comming weekend, so it might take a little while before the results are rolling in

[Madskp]

A little more info on my purchase.

The BL3500 is an MK1 with the MCL connector and SW 1.2.

The black box is another 1611 converter

I already tested the BL3500 with a minijack to MCL connector special cable, and its working fine so probably ready to go into the testing setup.

I dont think I realised before how the function with the Menu 0 4 GO is so easily aborted with any button press, so I really understand how its not an optimal way to use it.

[Madskp]

And then a package with this content arrived:

Stay tuned…..

 

[Madskp]

Ok, its something in the screw terminal for the connection of the tranciever, so it makes sense that it would loose connection every time I moved it a little. Still not perfect connection, but good enough that I could test that the Timer + reset / Timer + Av now works and the mute relay clicks when pressing the mute button in MCL2A mode, and works for PL when in MCL2AV mode. So I guees the replacement of TR100 and TR101 was the culprit, and the loose connction just confused me

[Madskp]

pepps wrote:

It is indeed a 1611 Beolink converter connected to the Aux socket on the BM3500.

Thought so, just wanted to know if I was missing something.

pepps wrote:

I do plan to extend further into the cellar with another relay box and transceiver. Should be unlikely that someone will be playing music in the kitchen at the same time. I do have an MCL2AV and a spare MCL2P so I’ll probably experiment when the cellar developments are underway.

The McL2AV also has the benefit of extra local inputs so you actually can have an alternative source playing there while playing something else on the main system.

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Madskp wrote:

One thing I noticed though is that the relay is clicking every time I move the unit just a little bit. I haven’t thought about that before, so it might also have done it before but the unit was always laying still when powered on. I might have to look in to that one of the comming days. Could be a loose connection of some kind

Yes my relay only clicks (twice about a second apart) when I power up the MCL2AV.

mine does start with the two clicks, so something is right. Ill have to check for loose connections

[Madskp]

Sounds like a great setup. However if you are going to make more MCL zones you will not have individual volume control between those, unless you go the MCL2AV way.

just to be sure is it the ML/MCL converter you use in the setup, or is it the 1611 Beolink converter that plugs into the Aux connector on the BM3500? As I understand the ML/MCL converter is only used when the audiomaster is not MCL capable (no passive speaker plugs).

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

On that note, when doing a Google search for B&O information I think I am seeing less ‘Beoworld’ hits than before. Perhaps this is related to the new forum?

I just remembered this, and here is my input. I have a feeling that the most google hits I get from Beoworld forums is from the old 2007-2012 forum.

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Given that your other MCL2AV fault was a 5v supply problem, and the muting circuit seems to use a 5v supply, perhaps whatever damaged TR13 also damaged TR100? Perhaps someone connected an incorrect power supply (or incorrect polarity) in the past.

I’m almost about to call you dr. diagnoses. When you mentinoed this it made me remember that in one of my first tires to fix the power part of it I suspected TR12 at first, and tried to exchange it with TR101 as it was the same type and had not to do with power supply.

Luckily I bought a supply of this type of transistor (BC848B) when I bought the replacement for TR13, if there was other faults.

I have replaced TR101, and also Tr100 as it actually had an old repair with some wire to fix a broken trace. I’m not sure if it made a difference yet, as I didn’t get the remote with me from the attic earlier and the little one is sleeping in the room below, so I can’t get it tonight.

One thing I noticed though is that the relay is clicking every time I move the unit just a little bit. I haven’t thought about that before, so it might also have done it before but the unit was always laying still when powered on. I might have to look in to that one of the comming days. Could be a loose connection of some kind

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Have you tried putting the MCL2AV in MCL2A mode (by holding down the TIMER button and pressing RESET (SHIFT MUTE) on the BL1000? If I do this with mine, then use SHIFT RADIO 6 to turn it on, the LED stays on and no sound comes out of the PL speaker. However, pressing the sensor’s MUTE button I can hear the MCL2AV’s relay clicking on and off. Perhaps this works for your mute button? I have then put the MCL2AV back in ‘2AV’ mode by holding down TIMER and pressing AV.Oh yeah that could be a good way to test it.

Ok, tried this now with both of the IR eye’s and the MCL2AV being stand alone or connected to the 1611 and the BC6. No way in any case will it respond to the timer + reset command or timer + AV for that matter. so no wiser on this matter. Of course my MCL2AV arrived with defects, so it might as well have other defects.

Regarding the numbering of the trancievers i found this in the MCL handbook:

It seems that the MCL2Axxx and corrosponding tranciever i named with the same type numbers (2045, 2046, 2047). So when the text says that the tranciever for the MCL2AV is  the same as on the MCL 2ABLI then the type number shouldn’t matter, unless of course it’s type 2045 as mentioned in the troubleshooting section.

 

[Madskp]

To add to the confussion I just found this picture of a MCL2A on ebay with the same type number as my tranciever

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Madskp wrote:

We might be going down a deep rabbit hole here…..

I agree! Have you tried putting the MCL2AV in MCL2A mode (by holding down the TIMER button and pressing RESET (SHIFT MUTE) on the BL1000? If I do this with mine, then use SHIFT RADIO 6 to turn it on, the LED stays on and no sound comes out of the PL speaker. However, pressing the sensor’s MUTE button I can hear the MCL2AV’s relay clicking on and off. Perhaps this works for your mute button? I have then put the MCL2AV back in ‘2AV’ mode by holding down TIMER and pressing AV.

Oh yeah that could be a good way to test it. Will try that tomorrow

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I am not at all sure about any of this – but I don’t think it has anything to do with the mute problem.

No I don’t think so either. It was just something that could be of interest to the overall functionality of the MCL2AV.

Guy wrote:

I did, however, find this in the MCL Handbook Troubleshooting Guide: I think the type label is inside the back cover – any idea what type yours are?  Of course, it was only valid when written hence I would suspect that later transceiver versions may well work! EDIT:  I just checked and the one connected to my MCL2AV is a Type 2046 and seems to work fine!

Ok interesting and could makes sense. But there might be some confusion in the numbering. In the servicemanual the MCL2A is called type 2046 with transceiver type 2021. No trancivever is mentioned for the MCL2AV, but there is a separate section for the tranceiver type 2021.

The one I got with the MCL2AV has type 2047, Serial 08412681, SW 2.0.

The other one is missing the shield with the badge, but has a number on the cardboard inlay which could be a serial number: 8920215.

We might be going down a deep rabbit hole here…..

 

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