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That board looks to be the same as mine, and you can see the ribbon connector that I mentioned in your second photo (from CD mech to PCB8).
There is indeed a 2 pin connector at the place you marked, it seems to me like it has never previously been taken apart, so it would wonder me if any connections would be to blame. Should i check the voltages on those pins you marked when i get unit connected enough again?
Worth checking both ends of that connector – make sure it is connected at the pre-amp end also, and look for any breaks, or dry solder joints around that area on the PCB.
I would check for an audio signal rather than voltage. I used to use a crystal earpiece (remember those?) whilst providing ground with my finger. You may be able to use a separate amp to see if there is any output, but keep the volume low at first.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I really don’t think that your problem is related to the laser or the 47uF capacitor, because if faulty I think this would prevent your laser from reading the CD at all, whereas yours plays and shows track data; the latter can only come from the laser reading digital data correctly. The CD audio output is also digital data until PCB8 carries out Digital-to-Analogue conversion).
You haven’t included a photo of the front unfortunately so I can’t compare, but this is what my BC2300 looks like (PCB8 exposed on the right):
I would look initially to see if there is an audio output from the board shown above. I have annotated the PCB with a red circle and from looking at the service manual I think this is where the audio output leaves PCB8 – there is probably a small (2-pin?) connector (P65) behind the red circle which take the CD audio to the pre-amp/input selector – probably black wires.
If removing PCB8 to investigate, be careful of the ribbon connector about half way up on the left hand side. This receives the digital data from the CD laser assembly, and should also be checked for security.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I have had a bit of a search but can’t find any info specific to those white cogs. A similar tape deck was also fitted in other B&O systems so you may be able to find something related to (for example) BeoCenter 9300 tape deck. There are a few photos (and videos) online but nothing showing the white cogs exposed.
Not sure if the third photo in this post helps (actually refers to BC8000): https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-8000-tape-deck-clicking-issue/#post-55380
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Good solution, thanks for the photos – and good to see your new stand connection adaptor in the background!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I also wanted to amend the channel lists on my BV10-32, but couldn’t make changes using the method in the user manual – it just didn’t work! (I wanted to move the UK Freeview HD channels from 101, 102, 103 etc to replace the SD channels 1, 2, 3 etc)
Although I didn’t try, I think the solution could be to make a Favourite List, but I couldn’t be bothered to move across all the other channels that I view.
It will be interesting to hear the response from B&O.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Since I had basically the same issues on Sony CD player I thought that dirt or dust on the laser could be to blame as well, how deep of disassembly is needed to clean the laser itself and not the lens which is seen from the front side?
I forgot to answer this bit. To be honest deep cleaning of the laser pickup head/mechanism looks quite complex (and I haven’t tried it myself!), so I would leave that for now and investigate some of the simpler solutions first (especially if the CD passes all of the CD Test Mode tests.)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
If your BeoCenter 2500 has the curved laser then it is more like the one that is the subject of my later thread here: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-2300-cdm-4-cd-repair/
I have paused work on that at the moment due to family commitments, but actually the CD started working fully after a few days of regular use so I may well leave it for now. Happy to try and assist with your fix though!
These curved tracking CDM-4 CD players seem more reliable than the later linear tracking CDM-12 versions, so these is possibly less information on the forum about fixing the particular problem that you described (i.e CD working but with no sound).
It would definitely be worth trying the CD test modes first so see if that gives a useful indication. Test modes are explained in the service manual at page 7-5 and 7-7. You may find that your CD player passes all the tests, because the fault could be downstream in the audio section.
In my linked thread you can see PCB 8 exposed, which carries out the Servo, disc detector and CD decoder functions on one board (unlike the later models). The circuit diagram is page 2-10 and 2-11. The ‘input’ to PCB8 is a ribbon connector from the back of the CD mechanism, and the audio output can by seen bottom right of the circuit diagram on page 2-11, namely ‘Plug 65 connections 1 and 2’. I would check the physical security of the ribbon cable and of plug 65 first. Also check for an audio signal at plug 65. Note that I am not sure where P68 is on PCB8, but it should be labelled on the board itself.
Good luck, and please come back with any questions as you investigate. Photos may be helpful to explain the problems.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
That’s a strange fault, and I suspect that there is nothing wrong with the laser since it is tracking and displaying on the screen. I am not aware of any functions on this model that are only available from the remote, or indeed ‘lockable’.
I would look first at the audio signal connections from the CD Servo PCB to the CD Interface PCB, and also from Interface to Pre-Amp PCB. If the laser unit has been repaired in the past it could simply be a case of a disconnected plug.
Do you have the service manual? This should help you to identify the correct boards and connections to check. Also, is the CD linear tracking (straight path across disc) or the older curved tracking version?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Lots of BC9000 parts can usually be found on UK eBay. What exactly is wrong with the CD mechanism?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
am I right in saying that the BV10 doesn’t have a cinema output, for use with a projector?
That’s correct, but there could be a fancy way of using an hdmi matrix (expander?) to do the projector switching. I have never tried, but it was discussed back in this thread: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/35319.aspx
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Thanks Greg – good luck with the fix – there’s plenty of refoaming advice on the net and here, should you get ‘stuck’! From what I hear it needs lots of patience.
And don’t forget to come back and post photos of your work!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
A useful test and I feel your pain regarding HDCP!!! I will admit that it was a big relief to get rid of my BV6’s, buy a BV10 and no longer have to worry about HDCP and DVI to HDMI conversion!
In an attempt to get your ‘Option 1’ to work, the only thing I can suggest is a different hdmi audio extractor in the hope that it also strips the HDCP. The one that I had most overall success with was this type: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-HDMI2HDMI-Converter-Extractor-Splitter-White/dp/B079251VBJ/
I then used a good quality HDMI to DVI cable into my BV6s.
PS: Some of my audio extractor experiences are posted here: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/47367/339566.aspx
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I am not sure what model of speakers you are referring to, but you may well be able to replace the deteriorating rubber surrounds. Have a search for ‘speaker refoaming’ , or follow some of the links in this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/replace-or-refoam-woffers-on-beovox-80-2-2/
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Maybe you need to go into the subtitles language menu and select off – have a look at my post in this thread; https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/bv10-subtitles-problems/
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
How about this: https://uk.farnell.com/molex/43025-0408/connector-housing-rcpt-4pos/dp/2779892
The datasheet is on the site so you can check exact measurements from some of the links. EDIT: Such as here: https://www.farnell.com/cad/2673247.pdf
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
And this cable will connect Playmaker output to Beocenter/master aux input: https://soundsheavenly.com/core-and-essence/84-378-rj45-to-aux-input-cable-add-core-essence-or-playmaker-to-your-bo-system.html#/9-length-18m
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
It took me several years to find my Aux Expander – I think I paid about £15.
Ref Playmaker, it’s best understood by looking through the attached installation manual. The setup that I have described is at page 11 – you would need to set the Playmaker to ‘fixed output level’ and also set it to A.OPT 0 so that you don’t get IR conflicts with the Beomaster etc. (Essence setup is very similar, at least for my Essence Mk2). The Playmaker ‘priority of sources’ is: AirPlay, DNLA, then sources connected to Line-In. I never had much success with DNLA but performance was much improved when I became a late convert to Apple/Airplay. Also, user experience suggests that you are better off providing Playmaker with a wired network connection, rather than wireless.
There are some differences between the early Mk1 and Mk2 Playmakers. From memory, the Mk1 accepted FLAC format music, whereas the Mk2 couldn’t. See here for type number differences: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/20864.aspx
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
If you ever want to use datalink with the ‘expanded’ input then it could be worth trying to find the B&O Aux Expander, which gave full 7-pin DIN switching from up to 4 inputs. They do come up on eBay occasionally:
Alternatively, connect a Playmaker to the BC9300 Aux input, stream Qobuz from your phone using airplay/DNLA and connect the Revox tapedeck to the Playmaker’s (auto-sensing) aux input. Instead of a Playmaker you could also do this with Essence Mk1 or Mk2.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
