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So, the sw is still updateable, and furthermore, an update was issued as recently as a few weeks ago!
I checked back through my emails because I remember B&O tech support telling me about a new SW update in one of their emails about IR control. Their email was dated 3 July, and said that version 2.6.56017 had just been released. I think that my Essence updated to this even later version, and will check later today.
EDIT: Here’s confirmation:
So I think that software release link that I sent earlier (here) actually shows earlier releases, rather than the latest one – the same data as the ‘earlier releases’ option on the app. It’s a shame that we can’t then see the release notes for the latest release.
(As and aside, you can see a full list of B&O SW releases (not just Essence) here: https://update.bang-olufsen.com/products)
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Guy —If I get one of these, my plan is to test it with my “JOIN”-type eye that works perfectly with my ML/NL converter, in order to decide whether to buy one for the Beosound Essence. I’ll post my results if and when it happens.
Many thanks indeed – I look forward to hearing whether it works!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Thanks @madskp – I may well have a look inside! It’s actually boxed up again at the moment, but you’ve given me a reason to get it back out and have a play.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I would imagine that something like this would do the job: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Terminal-Insertion-Stripper-Installation/dp/B0D3PPC8QX
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Just an update – having been reminded by the other Essence thread!
I have been in discussions with B&O tech support but I still can’t get it to work. They advised me to update the software (which I already had) and asked me to confirm the connections – I sent a copy of the NL/ML eye wiring diagram from the ML handbook and they didn’t say it was wrong. I also asked them to confirm when to set A.OPT 1 – once they understood the question they told me that it should be done when the Essence is in ‘Network Standby’ – again, I had already tried this.
So I have given up! If there are new SW updates I will check again. Otherwise, it would be useful to know if anyone has got it to work recently, either with the newer JOIN ML IR eye or the older TIMER version that I am trying.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Did you ever get any answer from B&O support regarding that issue?
They did answer but I didn’t get it to work – sorry I should have updated that other thread. They advised me to update the software (which I already had) and asked me to confirm the connections – I sent a copy of the NL/ML eye wiring diagram from the ML handbook and they didn’t say it was wrong. I also asked them to confirm when to set A,OPT 1 – once they understood the question they told me that it should be done when the Essence is in ‘Network Standby’ – again, I had already tried this.
So I have given up! If there are new SW updates I will check again. Otherwise, it would be useful to know if anyone has got it to work recently, either with the newer JOIN ML IR eye or the older TIMER version that I am trying.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Release notes here: https://update.bang-olufsen.com/products/58ba6c9e15524870a403957cdfbee6ab
Mine auto-updated to 2.5.556 about three weeks go, so it would appear that SW is still being updated. An older product should update without problem, as long as it’s a Mk2.
(But I still can’t get IR control to work – annoyingly!)
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Sorry, yes I read it wrong!
But my suggestion to try a different media player to play the tracks still stands.
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Yes, N.MUSIC is one of the options for the Beotime’s alarm source.
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I don’t have a BS5, but have you tried comparing the two formats using a different player, perhaps even WMP on your PC?
Also maybe try using Windows Media Player (instead of EAC) to rip to FLAC, and see if that makes any difference.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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There is no sensor that detects the door position – the motor simply runs for a set period of time and alternates direction. If no noise whatsoever on first press, it sounds like a motor problem.
How technical are you? The service manual is available to Silver Gold members. I would probably open it up and maybe swap the CD and cassette motors to see if that determines the fault.
(EDIT: And welcome to Beoworld! The BC9500 is a great piece of equipment – well worth fixing!)
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I am not sure if it’s relevant but have you tried adjusting the phone’s AirPlay settings – I found this page on mine, perhaps ‘Automatically AirPlay’ is set to ‘Automatic’ on yours? Perhaps try setting to ‘never’.
EDIT: As an aside, I just noticed that ‘AirPlay Receiver’ option at the bottom, but scrolled down and realised that it is just for Apple Vision Pro, which is a shame!
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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So far I only have one issue. The 9500 has a constant low power-like hum when in standby mode. I’ve tried chsnging between 220v and 240v but I can’t hear any difference. Anyone else experienced this? The 9300 in contrast is completely silent in standby.
I had this when my BC9500 was placed on wooden bookshelves – the shelves seemed to amplify the hum.
I tried replacing these: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product/transformer-bushings-beomaster-3500-4500-5000-5500-6000-6500-7000-etc/
The old ones were rock hard, like plastic. However, I am not convinced that the new ones made much difference!
The problem is mentioned half way down this page, where there’s a suggestion of using cut up squash balls as feet!
EDIT: I found my post about fitting them: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/189/345429.aspx#345429
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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how much is the stick from AVA Service?
£4.96 including 20% VAT
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Good work – I’ll be interested to hear if you can get hold of a new display and whether it cures the fault.
Hopefully this thread will encourage others to fix their BC2s while replacement parts still exist.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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I think that the correct order is earpiece, gauze (thin black sheet), felt/foam, metal. My foam had perished so I didn’t bother with that. When re-assembling, it can be held in place in the plastic cover using the small piece of tape on the metal piece.
The display disconnects at the circuit board. In my first post in the thread, you can see the white ribbon connector at the top left of the second photo. So, yes you will need to dismantle further following the YouTube video that I linked.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Is the numbering in the schematic the same as my numbering? I know there must be a convention, but I don’t know it.
I don’t know, but from inspection you can probably work out ground, and maybe find the 12V (or 14V) using a multimeter and then have an educated guess for the remainder!
Out of curiosity, is the Avant wired the same as a BV11?
Looks the same in the service manual – this calls the connector a ‘MicroFit 4-pin’, if that’s any help.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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Normally I’d refer you to the service manuals (avail to Silver & Gold members), but here are screenshots from the relevant sections. I am not convinced that it is straightforward but if you can get it to work please come back and let us know how!
BV11:
BV10:
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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A photo of the back of the display frame would be helpful so that we know what the retaining lugs look like.
I just removed it again to take a couple of photos. I noticed that one of my clips is indeed missing (blue circle), but it still seems to hold together well. The red circles show where the clips in red in the bottom photo hold.
EDIT: There are some very small clips just above the keyboard no 1 and 2 buttons. The cover pivots away from these as you remove it; there is no need to apply any tools in this area.
Location: Warwickshire, UK
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