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Are you 100% secure that the lower panel is re-fitted properly and that the glass itself is fully secured in its plastic surround (it often comes unglued)? The glass only needs to be slightly raised above the little rubber contacts and it will not function.
Alternatively, can you operate the controls with the glass panel removed, by lightly touching the little rubber contacts that would normally press against the bottom of the glass panel?
Can you fully control the BC9000 with the remote?
(EDIT: I moved your photo from the other duplicate thread, which I will now delete)
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Any major differences in the diagram from the 7-pin?
No. Just delete/ignore pins 6 and 7.
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Is this it?
https://beoworld.org/?a=download&key=5c07b40d58508a2bc346c5c43b03bc54
EDIT: In case that link doesn’t work, I got it from the bottom of this page by selecting the Type 2402 manual (which I though is the -2 version) – there is also a circuit diagram listed separately: https://beoworld.org/beomaster-3000-1969/
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Here’s one of Peter Pan’s diagrams that should be useful: (from https://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=32157&PN=1)
(However he seems to have ‘mirror imaged’ the solder side of the DIN socket: Red connection should be to what he has labelled as 4, and white to 1)
EDIT: For clarity, here is the correct pin numbering when viewing the solder side of a 7-pin DIN plug, or viewing into the ‘open’ side of a corresponding socket:
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There is no speakerphone capability on the BeoCom 2, so you will have to think of a different solution if you need a speakerphone.
Maybe look for a Beocom 5.
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Thanks @madskp. Yes I have seen the notes about adjusting trimmers – I have also read several posts that say to replace the capacitor and leave the trimmers alone, so that’s what I am hoping to get away with!
To be honest the BC2300 CD is playing quite well now that I am testing it daily. My ‘study’ BeoSound 1 CD, however, is misbehaving and I keep having to run that ‘CD Test Mode’ procedure to ‘clear’ the fault – it seems to work every time.
So I am not sure which to tackle first and I have yet to place a capacitor order. I probably need to strip down the BeoSound 1 first to see if I need parts for that too. I actually swapped CD mechanisms between all three of my BS1s, so I can’t now remember which model of mechanism is fitted in each!
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It’s not strictly ‘B&O in movies’ but every time I see this M&M advert (currently showing on UK TV) I have a minor panic as I think my BeoVision* is powering down of its own accord!
* Mine’s a BV10-32 – not sure if all newer BeoVisions have the famous B&O curtain effect.
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There’s a video explaining how to dismantle the BS Century here:
And if you go to about 9 mins 30 secs you will see the little display board being removed. It is only connected by a little white 9-pin connector, so perhaps this has come loose or has a bad/corroded contact? I would avoid spraying any more IPA because this could easily cause problems elsewhere.
If the connector is not at fault, you may be able to strip down the display/button board further, or look for a replacement.
EDIT: Sometimes these videos can be a little ‘hit and miss’. The Service Manual is available on Beoworld to Gold/Silver forum members but I had a look and it is of limited help in this instance, except to identify components.
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I may look to replace the suspect capacitor in slower time.
After extensive research, and reading this 14 year old post from JoeyBoyGolf, I think I will try the Vishay 138 AML series 47uF 25V listed here: https://cpc.farnell.com/vishay/mal213836479e3/cap-47uf-25v-alu-elec-axial/dp/CA08777
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And as an aside, if anyone has ever wonder what the inside of a Passive looks like, here’s one from my album (I had to strip it down to fix a loose connection panel). There’s lots of good solid engineering in there, which is a good thing because this particular Passive has suffered some abuse or neglect in its past:
And another full width:
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Two quick updates for completeness:
- Muting of Passive when connected to BeoCenter 2300 now solved by making an adaptor as described over in this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-connection-hub-beolink-passive/#post-60141
- After several hours of ‘Adele 21’ on Random/Repeat (to ‘exercise’ the mechanism and ‘warm-up’ capacitor C100), the BeoCenter 2300 CD-player is now behaving itself. I may look to replace the suspect capacitor in slower time.
Apologies for removed glass doors – they are still in the box for safe keeping!
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Taking inspiration from @Tignum’s work above I have today made a similar adaptor to connect my BeoCenter 2300 to a Beolink Passive (used as a simple amplifier rather than MCL driver) whilst retaining the Mute function, thus solving the problem raised over in this thread. I used it with two fully wired 8-pin Powerlink to RJ45 leads.
It works well; the Passive switches on/off with the BeoCenter and also Mutes correctly, including when starting the system from an ML link-room (via BL1611 to BeoLab 3500).
I used a cheaper (unscreened) 2-port RJ45 outlet (this one), and a shortage of coloured cable means that I went for fashionable black, but you get the idea (input on the right).
Thanks @Tignum! 😀
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Unfortunately ALL the links in that post are broken 404Errors.
All the links in @madskp’s linked thread work for me – Windows 10 Chrome and also on iPhone Safari.
Maybe check again in case there was a temporary forum problem – they should give you all the info that you need.
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If you don’t have a handset that is registered to the original base then I think you are stuck and it’s a dealer task to reset.
However, before giving up it could be worth working through some of my suggestions in this thread, especially the one about resetting the handset and then putting it on the pyramid base/pstn: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocom-6000-mk1-base-pin-code/
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Great news that it’s now working. Those Mk1 handsets can be quite temperamental and slow to update, and the RF chip can also fail (symptom – ‘No Signal’) which is frustrating as there doesn’t appear to be a fix. I have had less problems since I moved to BeoCom 6000 Mk2 handsets.
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If I set a new incorrect time on the Ouverture as soon as I confirm with go the time will get updated on both the BS ouverture and BL3500.
That’s good to know – hopefully all this information will be useful for someone else one day, not just us geeks!
I just wonder why this does not work with the BV8 and BV10?
Perhaps because BVs 8 and 10 (unlike the BC6-23) were introduced when digital TV tuners were around, hence the availability of what should be a much more accurate time signal with the TV signal. It’s a shame that this signal will not update attached ML devices, both audiomasters and BL3500.
People would only notice if they had a Beolab 3500 connected to the BC2300 and the time was starting to be wrong
I think that the advice from B&O would be to turn off the time display on the BL3500!!
Yet another aside/thread drift: The CD player is starting to behave erratically on my older two-way BC2300 – some (not all) discs turn then make noises and spin rapidly backwards! It has the older CDM-4, curved-laser-path CD mechanism and a bit of research suggests that it may be worth replacing C100 on the servo board (the BC2300 equivalent of C2103 on other models). It’s 47uF according to the Service Manual and I know from other threads that I must fit a blue axial Philips/BC – can anyone link me to an exact item that I can click to purchase in UK?
I checked Danish Sound Parts and can’t see a capacitor kit for the BC2300 CD board, but I am sure that I have read somewhere that BC9300 was basically a re-packaged BeoCenter 2500 so I wonder if there is read-across from other kits.
Funnily enough, whilst swapping CDs between players last night one of my BeoSound 1s suddenly decided to refuse to play CDs! I simply put it in Test Mode and ran through the CD tests to ‘exercise’ the CD mechanism and it started working perfectly again! That suggests a sticky CD mechanism to me and it probably needs cleaning/lubricating, or just using more frequently!
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Check the handset/base menu and see if the handset is set up with a PERSONAL (stored on handset) or COMMON (stored on PSTN) phonebook. I usually stick to COMMON.*
If playing with that setting doesn’t work, try resetting the handsets (Dot 7 000 9) – but make sure that you have the base PIN if you do this!
(I am assuming that the new handsets are Mk1, with the dot to the left of the wheel, rather than the INT button of the Mk2 version)
* EDIT: From the Mk1 manual:
If you change your handset from personal to
common, your personal Phonebook will be
deleted and replaced by the common
Phonebook if any such exists. If you have
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Good news – I found the BeoLink 5000 😀 Bad news, the display is starting to fail! 🙁
Anyway, something similar happened previously and the display improved as it warmed up, so I will bear with it for now before resorting to one of the known modifications!
I just tried a couple of experiments:
With just (two-way) BC2300, BL1611 and BL3500 connected: If time is not showing on BL3500 (because it has been powered down/up again) I can use the BeoLink 5000 to set (or re-set) the BC2300 time and as soon as I press the final ‘Accept’ the time appears on the BeoLab 3500 display.
I then tried setting an incorrect time on the BC2300 (showing when interrogated with Beolink 5000 and also permanently on BL3500 display) and then power down, connect the NL/ML Converter, and powered up. If I then tick the NL/ML Converter menu to ‘Push Time to Masterlink Products’ then as soon as I press ‘Save’ the time is corrected on both the BC2300 (interrogated with Beolink 5000) and on the Beolab 3500 display. If I change the time-zone on the Converter that will also change the BC2300/BL3500 times.
So all is pretty much as expected – the NL/ML Converter as Videomaster will correct/over-ride the Audiomaster time.
I am not going to try adjusting the BC2300 time with the BL5000 when the NL/ML Converter is also ‘pushing time to ML’ as I don’t want to risk mucking up the Converter!
I can’t think of anything further to test so that’s it for now 😀
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While I have all the equipment out, I just did a quick check that the RJ45 Powerlink outputs on both the NL/ML Converter and the Essence Mk2 will turn on/off the Beolink Passive. As expected, this works fine as long as the RJ45 to Powerlink cable is the fully wired MK2 powerlink compatible version such as that supplied by Steve here: https://soundsheavenly.com/bang-olufsen/31-325-rj45-to-powerlink-compatible-all-in-one-cable-convert-new-2013-ethernet-powerlink-to-traditional-8-pin-din-powerlink.html#/9-length-18m
Tonight’s task is to search for the elusive BeoLink 5000 so I can get back to those BC2300/BL3500 timers tests!
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Clutching at straws but the service manual shows P6 as being a ‘socket 6-pins’ and in the exploded parts diagram PCB1 is shown with just the socket in place (no attached plug or wire showing).
The ‘plug’ would then be part of the connector from the muting module (module 11).
I think it should come apart. (It’s possibly a old Molex right angle PCB connector – something like this: https://www.molex.com/en-us/products/part-detail/09481064 )
IMPORTANT EDIT: But the service manual does cover a variety of Beogram models so there may have been variations of connector – like in the BG3000 video that you mentioned. Also, if you look at Condor Audio’s BG4500 restoration, the cable appears to be soldered directly to the board, perhaps another variation or a modification (possibly after breaking the previously connector – so be careful!!) Condor Audio BG4500 pdf here (perhaps @yachadm of Condor Audio can comment): https://www.condoraudio.com/wp-content/uploads/Projects/BeoGram-4500-Turntable-Restoration-Repair.pdf
EDIT 2: This advert appears to show your BG4500 board with the connector disconnected: https://kosetrading.com/product/beogram-4500-computer-control-circuit-part-pcb-1/
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