[Guy]

20cen wrote:

Apple tv 4:

Height: 1.2 inches (31 mm)
Width: 3.66 inches (93 mm)
Depth: 3.66 inches (93 mm)

Apple TV 4 (HD, 4K 1st Gen and 4K 2nd Gen) were in fact larger than Apple TV 3 (12mm thicker). It is only the very latest 4K 3rd Gen that has shrunk, but is still thicker than Apple TV 3, as your comparison shows.

[Guy]

eswa86 wrote:

The question was mainly about if a Tape Out signal can be used to send around the house with a Core.

In that case, yes! ?

[Guy]

eswa86 wrote:

That’s right, sorry, both are integrated amps. The one I am currently looking at (and its mainly aesthetic) is a Holfi audis, which as far as I can see only has a Tape Out as potential connector to the Core.

There’s not much documentation around for those amps, but I am 99% sure that the Tape Out will be fixed volume. Hence you will have to control volume using the Core.

If you did want to use the volume control on the Holfi, you could try something like this: https://soundsheavenly.com/line-in-connection/33-power-amplifier-to-beolab-line-in-attenuated-convertor-kit.html

… but I would check with Steve first that the converter is suitable.

[Guy]

Be aware that the IR sensor is in a different location on the Apple TV HD A1625 version.  It’s just to the left of the status light.  See answer here with photo: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/253560611?answerId=256663690022&sortBy=best#256663690022

The Apple TV 3rd gen (A1427 or A1469) had the sensor opposite the status light.

The even newer Apple TV 4K originally had the sensor opposite the status light (1st and 2nd gen) but it is now central (3rd gen).

EDIT:  And if your Apple TV HD has the original siri remote (without the white circle around the MENU button) then you should be able to use the siri remote to control the volume of your Beoplay V1 – read all about this here:  https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/apple-tv-siri-remotes-and-ir-beovision/

[Guy]

ajames wrote:

I suppose I could use a Beolink Active with a powerlink to the Active (presume you mean Passive? – Guy) and a splitter but that wouldn’t save me reducing the number of units in standby.

But the BL Active will not actually produce a 5V output until it is turned on using its own IR input, so I am not sure that would work. Perhaps you could use a 5v trigger from the source audiomaster/videomaster?

[Guy]

eswa86 wrote:

Now I was looking to change my preamp (which is actually a normal integrated amp of which I use the headphone out of) to another one which only has Tape Out as an output (besides speaker outputs).

I am slightly confused by the bit in bold – a pre-amp would not usually have speaker outputs, so is the ‘new’ pre-amp also a normal integrated amp?

Tape Out would usually be a fixed line-level output – allowing recording level to be adjusted at the destination. As such, it ‘should’ be suitable as a line-level input to the core.

Perhaps post the make/model of the new ‘pre-amp’ to be sure?

[Guy]

Looking at the circuit diagram, the answer is no.

There is a permanent 5v at pin 6 of the IR socket, if that’s any use?

[Guy]

Tignum wrote:

I added the photographs of the wiring of a RJ45 to DIN 8pin cable to a previous post.

Thanks for posting those – looks to be a good quality cable.

[Guy]

Searching back through the archives the only other suggestion for repair is to reflow some of the solder joints on the laser unit – this is a bit vague but I suppose could account for the earlier intermittent fault.

I too would be very interested to find a definite replacement laser for the BeoSound 1 – hopefully a forum member can point us in the right direction.

I sent a message to Beoparts last night to ask if their replacement laser here would fit.  The response was as follows:

Seeing as different CD disc drives were used during production, there is only one
way to tell, and that is to look at your laser module and compare to the photos
of our laser module.  They must be identical.

During my searches I did find a photo showing a VAU1255/21 fitted to a BeoSound 1, but this specific model number seems equally difficult to find!

[Guy]

Thanks Glitch – that’s very useful!

It’s only one of the BC2300s that has been in an attic, and I will try to get hold of it next week and see what condition it’s in.  I think there are some Redline 60.2s up there as well!

Good tip about the battery sockets; I don’t think the BC9500 would have room for a socket in the original battery location but I could relocate for ease of access.  The BC2300s should be more straightforward with enough room under the microprocessor cover (I think it’s identical to the Ouverture picture that you posted in the FM tuner thread).

Do you have a recommended battery socket with pins that match the PCB hole spacing?

Glitch wrote:

As far as the equipment use affecting battery life, I think that it is dependent on the specific design. I’ve seen some designs where the battery powers the memory backup regardless of the power status of the equipment.

My mother-in-law had a habit of turning her BC9500 off at the wall every night, and the battery failed when it was about 20 years old. My BC9500 (permanently powered until storage) was still on the original battery.

[Guy]

I thought that I was going to be searching for a new laser when I bought a faulty BeoSound 1 three weeks ago. However, I used the Service Mode to run a few checks and the fault seemed to clear – I have tested the CD daily since without problems.

My post here refers:  https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/what-are-you-working-on-now/page/6/#post-28042

If you don’t have SHIFT currently on your Beo4, the easy way to enter service mode is to use the buttons on the BS1 control panel and press DELETE DELETE STOP STOP STORE.  Then use the Beo4 to select CD, and then the number of the test listed.

[Guy]

stotty1111 wrote:

Amazon!, 5 pack, here tomorrow

With PCB pins? (Or does the Ouverture battery simply slide in without soldering required?)

[Guy]

stotty1111 wrote:

Guy, strangely, I have a dead BC9300 here, I had proposed spares or repair for it, so it is looking like spares currently!

What’s wrong with it? That also has a CR2450 lithium battery which may need replacement.

And here’s a potential source for the battery – I have replaced one in a BC9500: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/cell-lithium-button-2pin-3v/dp/1319731?CMP=i-ddd7-00001003

[Guy]

20100 wrote:

I did all this as you said today and for the moment everything seems to be working perfectly. I’ll wait a little bit to be sure that everything is in order and i’ll note the thread as solved.

Great news – hopefully it will stay working. One further thing that I have just remembered  is that sometimes it can be worth leaving a remote disassembled for a couple of days (i.e all six nuts/bolts undone and pulled apart) to allow the contact foil ‘poppers’ to return to an uncompressed (normal) state.

Ravsted wrote:

I got a Beo4 Navi where the lowest part of the remote doesn’t feel right. I have cleaned it and everything seems perfect before reassembling. I’ll try loosening the nuts.

There’s nothing quite like the nice ‘click’ or ‘pop’ you feel when pressing any button on a brand new Beo4 remote! Sometimes it’s quite difficult to replicate.  When replacing the contact foil you can usually tighten the nuts a bit more and you do manage to replicate that ‘as new’ feeling.   You can also get away with having the PCB nuts quite loose because the design of the Beo4 still allows you to ‘pull’ the top plate (and rubber keyboard) downwards and flush with the black casing when re-assembling and tightening the 4 screws on the back.

I do wonder what the official B&O guidance is for Beo4 keyboard nut tightening! ?

[Guy]

Here’s a couple of photos:

Firstly to show the amount that I tighten the nuts! (middle two circled ):

(You can also see the little clip on the right edge of the PCB)

And to show the foil part no:

 

[Guy]

Hi and welcome to Beoworld!

Are you sure that the 6 hexagonal nuts that hold the PCB to the front plate are not simply too tight – this would cause the problem that you describe.  I usually tighten then just enough that the screw thread is just starting to emerge above the nut.

Failing that, you could try removing the little clip at the foot of the remote – this holds the foil to the PCB and ensures a good electrical contact – maybe clean underneath with Isopropyl Alcohol.

Failing that you could try removing the foil but they are sometimes very strongly stuck and hence damage is likely.

Which version of the Beo4 is it?  What are the second row of buttons from L to R?

Last time I bought new foils they were approx £15 from here: https://www.avaservices.co.uk/

 

[Guy]

Tignum wrote:

It is a Delock 2 Port RJ45 Cat.6A LSA

Many thanks – looks much better quality than many available. I think this is the same box with different branding:

https://uk.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg08003/socket-surface-rj45-cat6-shield/dp/3402347

[Guy]

^ Very neat – what make/model is the little 2 port terminal box?

[Guy]

mdonald wrote:

I use the box with a MacBook Pro 2017 and it works, but I can’t remote control it using a Beolink 1000.

I meant to add (but you probably know this) that SHIFT then STORE on the BL1000 is the way to send a PC command.

[Guy]

Thanks for the update and great news that you got it all working – I am sure that this will be useful to others.  I am a big fan of the often-overlooked Passive.

Just for completeness, you referred to B&O’s Powerlink Mk2 RJ45 to 8-pin DIN cable so I thought I would post a pinout diagram of this cable here so that others can see exactly what is going on with the grey ‘power on/up’ wire:

 

[Author]

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