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Thanks Greg – good luck with the fix – there’s plenty of refoaming advice on the net and here, should you get ‘stuck’! From what I hear it needs lots of patience.
And don’t forget to come back and post photos of your work!
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A useful test and I feel your pain regarding HDCP!!! I will admit that it was a big relief to get rid of my BV6’s, buy a BV10 and no longer have to worry about HDCP and DVI to HDMI conversion!
In an attempt to get your ‘Option 1’ to work, the only thing I can suggest is a different hdmi audio extractor in the hope that it also strips the HDCP. The one that I had most overall success with was this type: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Adapter-HDMI2HDMI-Converter-Extractor-Splitter-White/dp/B079251VBJ/
I then used a good quality HDMI to DVI cable into my BV6s.
PS: Some of my audio extractor experiences are posted here: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/47367/339566.aspx
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
I am not sure what model of speakers you are referring to, but you may well be able to replace the deteriorating rubber surrounds. Have a search for ‘speaker refoaming’ , or follow some of the links in this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/replace-or-refoam-woffers-on-beovox-80-2-2/
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Maybe you need to go into the subtitles language menu and select off – have a look at my post in this thread; https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/bv10-subtitles-problems/
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How about this: https://uk.farnell.com/molex/43025-0408/connector-housing-rcpt-4pos/dp/2779892
The datasheet is on the site so you can check exact measurements from some of the links. EDIT: Such as here: https://www.farnell.com/cad/2673247.pdf
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And this cable will connect Playmaker output to Beocenter/master aux input: https://soundsheavenly.com/core-and-essence/84-378-rj45-to-aux-input-cable-add-core-essence-or-playmaker-to-your-bo-system.html#/9-length-18m
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It took me several years to find my Aux Expander – I think I paid about £15.
Ref Playmaker, it’s best understood by looking through the attached installation manual. The setup that I have described is at page 11 – you would need to set the Playmaker to ‘fixed output level’ and also set it to A.OPT 0 so that you don’t get IR conflicts with the Beomaster etc. (Essence setup is very similar, at least for my Essence Mk2). The Playmaker ‘priority of sources’ is: AirPlay, DNLA, then sources connected to Line-In. I never had much success with DNLA but performance was much improved when I became a late convert to Apple/Airplay. Also, user experience suggests that you are better off providing Playmaker with a wired network connection, rather than wireless.
There are some differences between the early Mk1 and Mk2 Playmakers. From memory, the Mk1 accepted FLAC format music, whereas the Mk2 couldn’t. See here for type number differences: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/20864.aspx
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If you ever want to use datalink with the ‘expanded’ input then it could be worth trying to find the B&O Aux Expander, which gave full 7-pin DIN switching from up to 4 inputs. They do come up on eBay occasionally:
Alternatively, connect a Playmaker to the BC9300 Aux input, stream Qobuz from your phone using airplay/DNLA and connect the Revox tapedeck to the Playmaker’s (auto-sensing) aux input. Instead of a Playmaker you could also do this with Essence Mk1 or Mk2.
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Try this link: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/28245351763729-Bang-Olufsen-Net-TV-service-terminated-as-of-31st-October-2024
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Follow up – I’ve looked on eBay and I think what I need for the second type of adapter (with the pins close together) is a crossover 2 pin cable, like this one. I’ll buy them and test them.
The requirement for a ‘crossover’ or ‘straight through’ RJ11 cable is yet another variable that I have never got a handle on! The RJ11 to RJ11 cable that I was using with the non-white dot adaptor was a ‘straight through’ version. And of course all this assumes that the BT socket is wired correctly!
Maybe buy two cables and have a play!
I actually bought one of these to experiment with various RJ11/BT permutations – very useful for making bespoke telephone leads: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Telephone-Ratchet-including-BT431a/dp/B073VNDPTD
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You will have a different Beoline to me if yours does not need an adapter. Mine is the rectangular one that does need the adapter.
Yours will be the Beoline PSTN: (I have one of these in a box, together with the ISDN version that I am still trying to think of a use for!)
Whereas I am now using the Beoline EU Mk2 (specifically the type number 1130GB):
The older PSTNs (like yours and the pyramid version) actually have better compatibility across the BeoCom phone range. For example, my newer Beoline EU Mk2 will not update the time on my Beocom 2 (Mk1), whereas my previous pyramid PSTN did)
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Further to the above, I have just this week changed my phone setup from a BC6000 pyramid PSTN to a Beoline PSTN. The Beoline doesn’t need an adaptor, but I just checked the one that I was using before and it is the right hand one without the white dot (pins close together). However, below is the RJ11 to BT Plug adaptor that was at the BT-socket end, which changes RJ11 pins 3/4 to BT pin 2/5 hence gives the same eventual connection:
EDIT: I just checked and the Beoline PSTN also uses the RJ11 centre pins (3 & 4) with a similarly wired adaptor at the BT socket.
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I have a mixture of the two, and I suspect that they are designed to work with different countries’ line connections. UK BT plug uses pins 2 and 5, so this logically connects to RJ11 pins 2 and 5 – the left hand adaptor. However, I have purchased and used Beocoms in UK, Denmark, Germany and Romania and usually ended up simply switching between cables and adaptors until it works!
You could simply make an RJ11 adaptor to use the right hand one, but I think you can also open them up (they unclip) and carefully move the connectors outwards one position.
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Excellent news – I admire your patience! And you are lucky that there isn’t a time delay imposed upon each unsuccessful attempt! 😀
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for some reason TV sources such as DTV and DVD are not available if using Opt.0.
Perhaps when in Opt. 0 the Beoport looks for a ‘local’ video signal on one of the PC video cards that was compatible with Beoport, rather than looking on masterlink. If you try to select a video source in Opt.0 does the Beoport default back to the PC input?
I am not sure, but I think that the same problem may have been experienced in this very old thread which could be worth a read: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/6440.aspx
When in Opt 6 the Beoport could be acting as a normal ‘link room’ and getting the video audio via your (controllable) BS4 audiomaster.
But it’s a while since I played with my Beoport and I could be confused!
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Remove the lower glass and check the security of the ribbon cables to the lower panel (connector P63), and the ribbon connectors to the left and right side of the panels. Check also all those cables/cnnections that are being disturbed when rotating the Beocenter top panel into the service position.
Do you have a service manual/multimeter? If so, I would start by checking power to those lower panels for which you need to refer to service manual. There is also a Test Mode but this is initiated by short circuiting two pins on the lower panel so it may not work, and I doubt that it would tell you much.
Anything more than that and you are going beyond my knowledge, but let’s hope it’s just a loose connection!
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I have the same problem! I have definitely read somewhere on Beoworld that they unscrew but can’t find the reference; I think it was mentioned by Lee (former site owner). I have tried several times (every house move) but cannot get them apart. Maybe WD40, or application of cold/heat, or percussive shock??? Good luck!!
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Similar discussion (and copy of rectangular plug connections) in this old thread: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/36445.aspx
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Hi Tony,
I have just answered your PM and attached this from the BV6 manual: (I think you already have the 8-pin connection list?)
But have you considered buying a purpose built lead from here? https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69053-oneremote/4172-tv-stand-converter-snut/
I know from experience that the BV10-32 will fit onto the BV7-32 stand, but there is a problem with the geometry of the stand components versus the Centre of Gravity of the BV10-32.
Here’s a side view of the BV7 stand:
And a side view of the proper BV10-32 stand:
When you put a BV10 on the BV7 stand, the TV drops all the way downwards and tilts fully upwards due to the orientation of the two (near parallel) cross members. The different orientation/geometry of the BV10 stand hold the TV (stops it dropping) let allows you to tilt the screen up or down. The entire mechanism appears stiffer and more controllable.
When I temporarily used a BV7 stand for my BV10-32, I wedged a rectangular piece of rubber in the gap between the supports to stop the TV dropping downwards.
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