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One of the connectors is a 6 Pin DIN and the other on is a 5 pin, but with the pins in cross formation. Does anyone know what that could be for?
The 6-pin DIN matches the connection for the Beomaster 7000 external IR sensor, but I can’t recall any B&O applications for the 5-pin 270 degree DIN (wikipedia shows DIN 45327, or domino/dice arrangement)
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To do so I think that your TV will have to have an HDMI-ARC (audio return channel) socket so that it is both receiving and sending audio.
If it does have such a socket, you should be able to use an HDMI-ARC audio extractor. This one looks like it offers volume control through CEC on the ARC: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Extractor-Converter-Support-Digital-Coaxial/dp/B08XV2B6T4?th=1
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Are you sure that the BS2000/Century does not provide an AUX output in the same way as the BS4000? The service manual is a bit confusing, because the connections summary (page 1-2) shows NC (no connection) for aux output pins 1 and 4, whereas if you look at the circuit diagram (page 2-19) it shows pins 1 and 4 connected as an AUX output. Worth testing.
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Earlier today I noticed that the B&O Store in Bicester Village were offering new/boxed/warranted Beoplay M3s for half price – £140. I happened to be passing so I popped in to buy one. They only have the grey version (sold out of black), but there are a few more in stock and they expect another 30 tomorrow.
Other offers include Beoplay M5 for £275 – full list of offers here (scroll down past the ‘refurbished’ section): https://www.thebicestercollection.com/bicester-village/en/brands/bang-and-olufsen/
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Great information – many thanks for starting the thread and posting the data above!
My BC9500 works the same as BC2300 – turns Passive* on/off but no muting – see here . I haven’t driving MCL, nor have I tried the modified (pin 4 to 1) PL lead but will do so next time my BC9500 is set up.
My Essence Mk2 turns Passive on fine – fully wired RJ45 PL lead used. Hopefully @CharlieWednesday is testing MCL compatibility.
* EDIT: Was actually tested with MCL2P.
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You could try using an RJ45 to RJ45 cable to connect the Playmaker directly to your router, which should allow you to find it and set up further.
That what also what I had to do when I setup mine last year. As far as I remember you can select the wireless network to connect to from the webinterface when you get acces to it from the cabled network.
Yes that rings a bell with me. Although I am not sure of its relevance here, the Mk1 Playmaker had to be connected hardwired to carry out firmware upgrade, whereas the Mk2 could do so over the wireless network.
Playmaker mark1 = type number 2930 – 2931
Playmaker mark2 = type number 2970 – 2971
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If blinking white then the Playmaker is still searching for your network.
You could try using an RJ45 to RJ45 cable to connect the Playmaker directly to your router, which should allow you to find it and set up further.
From experience, the Playmaker has never been particularly reliable when connected wirelessly, so if possible try to use it hard-wired to your network.
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Great news about the Win11 music now being visible!
One annoyance for me – when you view an album in the B&O app, it show the tracks in alphabetic order according to track title, rather than by track order. That’s just rubbish!
I have the same problem but am not at all sure about the cause. I thought it was a limitation of my NAS server because I think it also happens on other music ‘clients’ (eg apps on Apple TV) – it could perhaps be linked to the way the tracks were ripped, or the music library organisation/indexation – more investigation needed!
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Update – I still have not been able to get my shared music folder on my PC to show on the B&O app. It shows the device (a tablet PC running Win11), but not the contents. I’m sure this will be a Win11 issue (who is surprised!?). I think I’ll look on eBay for a cheap NAS and see if I can get it working that way.
It’s strange that mine worked. I still have a couple of Win11 laptops here so I can experiment further if required. I can’t remember, but is your B&O app running on android? If so, perhaps the problem is specific to Win11 to android? If so, any chance you can try the app on an iPhone?
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then asked myself if i connect the Beomaster 7000 with my Sonos Connect can I just listen to Sonos music since it is an input or does it work also the other way around.
If the Sonos has an auxilliary (aux) input then ‘yes’ it should work the other way around. The Tape 2 socket will always output (at line level) whatever is playing on the BM7000, so this will also include the Beogram if that is what is selected. The connector that you linked to will be fine.
Additionally, how can i have Digital Radio on the Beosystem and can i still operate the Radio with the Beo4 Remote?
For digital radio I suggest that you have a look at OneRemote (I have purchased their products in the past and been very pleased): https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69094-digital-radio-solutions-for-bo/
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Great news that shorting the battery worked – and I am happy to have helped!
Ref remote: You want something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/306008041159 EDIT: Not sure I would bid on this one because there are no photos showing the screen working, and the screens can fail partially with gaps/lines showing.
Be patient and you should find a good one that goes for under £50.
There are a few versions but all will work with your BC9300:
These are arranged with the oldest on the left – look at the second row of buttons to see the main differences, apart from the last on the right that also has a joystick (which you don’t need)
(click on photo to enlarge)
Any of the oldest three Beo4 versions will be fine for your BC9300, or you could buy an older BeoLink 1000 such as this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286240774803
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Forgot to ask, do you have the service manual? You could try putting the Beocenter in test mode (page 5-1) and resetting the tuner presets. You could also do a RAM test, but I am not sure how to interpret any results!
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Bugger, the battery is good and has power to the board.
What voltage was it reading? – it may not be good when under load and could have dropped sufficiently to confuse the microprocessor. If it has never been replaced it would be worth doing (it will be 25+ years old!)
You could try temporarily shorting out the battery to see if that resets the microprocessor (whilst mains power disconnected) . Or disconnect/reconnect battery for hopefully same effect.
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And the white pads were probably to hold the battery proud of the PCB surface whilst fitting – the design of the battery’s soldering pins should hold it above the surface anyway. If in doubt, leave the pads in place when you fit a new battery.
If you decide to fit the socket instead, you need to check that there will still be room to close the metal cover of the board.
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The battery will be soldered on the reverse side of the board.
The + on the battery is just to say that the top is positive. The + and – on the PCB are alongside the holes in the circuit board through which the battery is soldered.
The battery that I linked to is fine: It is a CR2450 and has pins that should line up with the holes in the circuit board.
If you don’t want to directly solder a new battery you could solder one of these battery sockets in place and fit any CR2450 (the socket has the same spacing between the + and – pins): https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0B692W13Q
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Well, that didn’t work! On replacing the pickup, and attempting to play a CD, the spindle motor did spin up this time, but my hopes were short lived. After a second or two, the spindle motor stopped, and the CD clamp opened. Placed the unit into Test Mode. It initially gave an error 7 on pressing CD, but now repeatedly gives an error 3. I removed & checked all the connections, but error 3 it is.
That’s a shame – do you plan to replace the servo board capacitors next?
(My BC2300 CD fix had similar results – it worked for a short while when I replaced just the laser, but had to replace caps for a permanent solution)
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If I disconnect the Centre 2 and just have the tv with the Chromecast will it still work?
There’s no reason why not. The Chromecast should be connected directly one of the TV’s hdmi sockets hence no interaction with the BC2.
Just one additional thought: If you can run a masterlink cable between the TV and the BC2’s new location, you will still be able to play the BC2’s music through the TV speakers, which may be useful.
And welcome to Beoworld!!
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If consider getting a MCP5500 or MCP6500 instead be avare that these will only work with some 2 way IR products like BM5500/BM6500/BM7000 (and maybe a few more), but not with 1 way IR products like the BS4.
MCP5500 etc will possibly work two-way with the MCL2AV and its sensor. I seem to remember testing this with a ‘stand-alone’ MCL2AV back when I used that for computer audio. I am not sure what the outcome will be if a one-way audiomaster is also connected to the MCL2 system.
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Further to the above, although I don’t have any photos of exact location, in the BC9300 the battery is actually on PCB3 which is the microprocessor board. This thread may help: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-9300-no-life-almost/
But it is the same battery, and will still need soldering!
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Great work so far – glad that all the buttons work!
Yes battery replacement is a soldering job, and you need to be careful not to apply too much heat as batteries can explode! (Wear goggles)
EDIT: I have just deleted some of the advice and photo because I believe that the BC9300 battery may be in a different position to the BC9500 – I will check!!!!!
And the battery type that I have fitted in the past: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/cell-lithium-button-2pin-3v/dp/1319731
And if patient then you should be able to get a decent working remote on UK eBay for £30-40
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