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^ Great solution @madskp – I would buy that!
I wasn’t aware of that, so perhaps it’s a new product. I assume it swaps the datalink across from pin 6 to 7.
I was aware of this older version, but I don’t think it’s available any longer: http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/item/1321/RIAA+Pre-Amplifier+with+Datalink+for+BeoGrams/
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Did you see the note about resetting base pin number to 0000? I posted earlier (4 up) but before you replied.
Failing that, I’m all out of ideas. But it’s been fun thinking about it! 😀
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Non-RIAA turntables pass datalink through DIN pin 6.
RIAA equipped turntables pass datalink through DIN pin 7 (the same as other B&O line level components, like CD players).
If not fitted with RIAA (some were) your BM3500 will expect datalink on input DIN pin 7, hence you will need to modify your DIN lead (in addition to adding a pre-amp) in order to remote control the turntable.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Yes, only one base is now shown in that menu.
I think that it’s possibly then an incompatibility problem. If you go back to the compatibility table that I posted earlier, then the Mk1 versions of both BeoCom 6000 and BeoCom 2 are shown as incompatible with Beoline Mk2. In practice they will often work as basic phones but with some limitations.
I also found I had a Beocom 6000 pyramid PSTN, so I tried to connect the Beocom 5 to that too. Same result – it continues to search for the base, but it doesn’t find it (and yes, the base is in discoverable mode).
The BC6000 Mk1 is fully compatible with the pyramid PSTN. Have you tried resetting that base and then registering the BeoCom 5?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Just wondered if you’ve seen this post about resetting the base PIN code to 0000:
https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/18641/161888.aspx
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
In response to your second reply, I’ve already tried that. I reset both my Beocom 6000 Mk1, then relinked it to the base successfully. Knowing that it was linked to only that one base I tried again to reset the base with DOT 70008, but again I go the ‘Not Base 1’ error.
So if you use the BC6000 to go to the ‘select base’ menu (DOT MENU 7 then ‘select base’) is there only one base listed when you use the wheel to scroll? I only ask this because I can not convinced that a handset reset deletes all the data. (From memory, I think at least handset name stays).
I tried the same with my Beocom 2 (which is a Mk1). After resetting it and relinking it, I get ‘Wait’ if I try ‘Reset Base’ via the 9#9#9* INT menu.
I can’t find a BC2 Mk1 manual (I only have Mk2) to see if it also has the ‘select base’ menu anyway.
As an aside, I think that the Mk1 versions of BC6000 and BC2 both had the ‘select base’ facility because that was a (clunky) way of using them with two-phone lines. Later models like the Beocom 2 (US) and BC5 had two-line functionality built in when using with two-line PSTNs.
I found another post (can’t find it again now to link it!) when someone had the same issue as me with a BC5 and a BL Mk2, and they solved it by letting the BC5 battery run down while it was displaying ‘Register handset to base?’, then when they charged it and tried again, it linked first time! I’m running the battery down now so I can try that.
Worth a try! I do find that these BeoComs sometime behave in the strangest of ways, particularly at different states of battery charge!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Further to the above, I vaguely recalled that the BC6000 Mk1 can be registered to several bases at once. This is confirmed on page 38 of the BC6000 Mk1 user manual, where it states:
If a handset is registered to several bases, you
can choose which base to use via the SELECT
BASE menu.I am guessing that you can only then control (reset) the first base registered. Hence the ‘Not Base 1’ message.
Perhaps try resetting the BC6000 handset (Press (dot) 7 000 9), registering to the Beoline Mk2, and then resetting the base. You could try the same with your Beocom 2 (is it a Mk1 or Mk2, by the way?)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Asa I mentioned about, if I try DOT 70008 OK to get into the service menu for the BL Mk2, I only get ‘Not Base 1’ displayed, which I don’t understand and the BC6000 is linked only to that one base.
That is the instruction to reset the base.
To enter the handset service menu, enter: 9 – # – 9 – # – 9 – ✱ – (DOT) – 7 – OK, and you should then be able to scroll through the following — does that work?
1: HS SW VERSION
2: BS SW VERSION
3: CURRENT VOLUME
4: MAX VOLUME
5: NOMINAL VOL
6: MIN VOLUME
7: FORCED TRANSM
8: EEPROM EDIT
9: RAM WATCH
10: CONTRAST
11: SERIAL NUMBER
12: ONTIME TOTAL
13: ONTIME OFFHOOK
14: ONTIME CHARGER
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi Jeff and welcome to Beoworld!
Unfortunately I can’t hep with the specific problem, but the BC5500 service manual is available on Beoworld for Silver and Gold members, should you wish to upgrade!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
It sounds a bit strange, but according to the compatibility table below, if you want to use a BeoCom 5 with a Beoline Mk2, then you have to register an older handset first (eg BC6000) to tell the base that it’s only a one-line setup.
(and the same procedure should work with other bases as shown)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi Mike and welcome to Beoworld!
I just deleted some duplicate posts; sometimes the forum can be slow to respond to the submit button (hence people press again), but hopefully you will get used to it!
I haven’t restored a turntable, but hopefully others will have experience of BG2400 and be able to help.
In the meantime, you may want to look here for a reliable source of spare parts (although there is a note on the site about problems shipping to the States, hopefully soon resolved): https://www.dksoundparts.com/product-category/beogram/beogram-2400/
Good luck!
EDIT: I forgot to say that the Beogram 2400 Service Manual is available on Beoworld for Silver or Gold Members, should you wish to upgrade.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Tough luck. These Beosound 4’s does not seem to be as easy to work on as the BC2300/2500/BS Ouverture/BS 3×00 system
I agree – they’re far too modern for my liking.
Looking in the servicemanual for the BS4 something about modules being registered to the BS4 when powered on for more than 12 hours or the Pin code being activated/deactivated which sounds like a lock in between the main PCB and the other components which could probably cause trouble if one module is malfunctioning.
Thanks @madskp I hadn’t spotted the 12 hour comment! Because I disconnected several ribbon cables when dismantling, I will power the unit up and leave it overnight in the hope that this may cause the modules to ‘re-register’. I don’t hold out much hope, but worth a try!
I also noticed in the servicemanual that there are some pictures showing different points where certain voltages should be available. If you wan’t to dig further one option could be trying top measure if these voltages are present.
The manual also says that the BS4 should be in CD mode when testing voltages. I can’t get it into that mode, or indeed any mode other than standby!
The service manual does also mention a removable/replaceable EPROM on PCB06, but as you can see in my photo, where the metal cover is removed, none of the chips look to be removable.
I’ll persist a bit longer, but to be honest I don’t like working on it! Those pull-out ribbon cables are very tricky, and the very sticky outer case leaves black marks all over your hands (and workbench) when handling it. I am adamant that I won’t clean it until it shows signs of life!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Great news – thanks for letting us know. It’s well worth keeping BS1s in full working order, and it looks very good on your floor stand!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
So today the new belts arrived from Danish Sound Parts so I could crack on with fixing the BS3000 doors. The parts were only ordered on Thursday evening, so a great quick service, fully tracked with Royal Mail.
But first I had to have a quick look at my grandson’s Lightsabre – no prizes for guessing what was wrong with it …
But back to the BS3000. I’d already given the exterior and interior a good clean, especially the door runners – I also applied a small amount of WD40 Silicon Lubricant. I replaced both the door belt and the CD clamper belt – both pretty straightforward and there’s plenty of threads/videos to help. The main worry is not to let the tiny circlips spring across the room during removal! It’s all up and running now, ready for return to my cousin. Some photos for reference – showing the new belts fitted:
I have also had a good look at the faulty BeoSound 4. Basically it’s stuck at stand-by and will not respond to remote (other than power button which closes the door, which works fine). On the keyboard the only button that makes anything happen is the LOAD, which causes the door to open further for CD loading. The stand-by red light shows permanently, and responds by flashing if I change the option setting. I have tried entering the Service Menu using both keyboard and remote – neither work. I do have the PIN but am unable to enter the PIN menu. I have tried controlling it by connecting to my BV10-32 with an ML cable – no joy there.Searching the old forums came up with this post (amongst others) from Peter: https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/39215/325907.aspx#325907So I think that is probably the problem – a SW problem related to the PIN system. Nevertheless I stripped it down and checked all the connectors etc – the ribbon cables are mostly the push-in type (no locking mechanism) which I found a bit strange – some were quite difficult to re-insert. The backup battery is fine (3.2V) but I also tried shorting it out briefly in the hope that this would kick the processor back into life – this didn’t work! So unless anyone has any further suggestions I think I will give up!Just for interest here’s a photo of the insides – the ‘suspect’ PCB6 is at the bottom and the backup battery is behind the two ribbon cables that emerge from it.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
See here for similar BM6500 – photo and description of wiring included: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/43123/313059.aspx#313059
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I think the problem could be that there is no audio or video master on the ML side, hence no power being supplied to ML.
In this sort of situation you need an ML Power Box – see attached from the BeoLink Handbook: (click to enlarge)
EDIT: See also this thread about the Powerbox used with BL3500: https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/16217/141383.aspxLocation: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I think it’s the same battery at the BC9500. I use these which fit perfectly as they have the correct pin spacing: https://uk.farnell.com/renata/cr2450-nfh-lf/cell-lithium-button-2pin-3v/dp/1319731
As you can see both pins solder on the same side (other side from the physical battery).
EDIT: After replacing the battery you may need to adjust the FM/AM offset in Test Mode as explained on page 7-3 of the service manual. (That’s assuming you have FM/AM stations in your area with known frequencies)
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
I’ve only carried out the procedure on a couple of BC9500s, but no-one else has replied.
For me, a new battery solved the problem – I think I had to carry out the COdE procedure again after battery replacement, but there have been no further problems since with either system.
In my experience, if you keep the system connected to mains power the problem may not re-occur – my mother-in-law’s system failed early because she switched it off at the wall every night. However, if the battery is flat then it may be close to leaking, hence worth replacing.
I’m currently debating changing the battery in a BS3000 that I have taken apart for door/CD belt changes – will probably do so to give it a longer lifespan.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
Finally got time to take it apart, and I think I found the issue (at least one for now) and its the small rubber belt that has broken that opens up the hatch. So now is that an easy fix or?
Hopefully, if you can find a replacement belt of the same size – I am not aware of any suppliers so it may be trial and error! Unless anyone else knows on the forum. Otherwise you could buy that replacement clamper from eBay – there is also a new one here: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166441843810
Also, would that be the reason the cd wont play as well? as that belt only seems to be for the actual hatch to open?
I can’t remember if there is a microswitch to tell the system that the clamper is fully down – if there is it should be fairly obvious. Also the clamper needs t be fully down so that the CD is gripped so that it will turn at the correct speed, otherwise it will not play.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
No, but I think there is a circuit description of how to make a switch for that in some of the MCL documentation, so B&O did something to make this solution plausible.
Here it is – basically isolates the power and data connections:
Picture extracted from here (half way down page): https://beoworld.org/wiring-diagrams/Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
