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sonavor wrote:

Option 2, running the motor by continually trying to keep it wet doesn’t sound like a good idea to me.

sonavor wrote:

I haven’t done anything with those parts other than treating them with some synthetic oil.

We may be talking about the same process here. What I’m calling “wet” simply means adding a small amount of oil to the shaft/bearing interface. “Dry” would be relying exclusively on the oil that is impregnated in the bearing. I would consider a mechanism that is maintained by adding oil to a felt washer to be “wet”.

Many say that the downside to running a bearing “wet” is that it attracts contaminants that cause extra bearing wear. This might be a necessary evil compared to running a bearing with a worn/damaged surface that might not be getting oil from the reserves in the bearing. Neither choice is appealing.

I do have a concern about damaging the motor when disassembling it. For me, it is a hard decision because the motor seems to be operating very well. I try to avoid the self-inflicted injuries/problems whenever possible. Also, I try to not leave “technician tracks” when I work on something.

The motor cover is held in place with three bent tabs. I’ve tried to remove it, but it quickly became apparent that I wouldn’t be able to do so without damaging the case.

I haven’t seen any videos/pictures of this particular motor being disassembled. My next thought is to buy a “parts machine” to experiment on.

Do the Beocord 8000’s use the same motor as the the BC9000?

You make an interesting point about testing the motor. I’ll have to think about how to do this. I have a precision encoder left over from a robotics project that might be perfect for this.

You talked about testing your motor rebuilds. Have you gone back from time to time to check to see how well your rebuilds are aging?

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sonavor wrote:

I was thinking motor bearings as I read it but I see that you are talking about the bearings on the capstan bearing.

I was considering ALL of the sintered bearings, but didn’t convey it very well. The first part of the question had to do with the best way, in general, to lubricate the bearings. I planned to ask a follow-up question on how to get the bearings out of the motor if it was deemed necessary. I also referred to the clutch bearings incorrectly as “idler shaft” bearings.

I am hoping to learn about other’s experience with various lubrication methods. I suspect that many of these machines were serviced/restored 15, or so, years ago. By now it should be clear what worked and what didn’t.

I assume that most everything that I’m doing to my machines is old news and was discussed decades ago. I’ve tried searching the archives of this (and other) forums for info. What I didn’t find much info on is: 1) the long term performance of the fixes and 2) the idea to swap the higher load bearing with the lower load bearing.

I’ve started working on cobbling together a small vacuum chamber. I think I figured out how to make a good connection to my vacuum pump with parts that I have on-hand.

My gut feel is to try option #3 above for the capstan/clutch and #2 for the motor unless someone has a compelling argument for one of the other options.

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Based on the info above, I decided to revisit the lubrication of the supply and take-up reels on my BC9000. Here is a close-up of the cap and spindle.

I noticed that the original lubrication was an amber colored, medium density grease. The grease on the shaft itself was hard to identify, but there was a small amount of grease in the groove of the cap that looks original and is not between moving parts. This is a bit odd since the service manual calls for Floil on the shaft. In researching this, others have also described grease at this location.

I wonder if the difference in lubrication was a running change, an oversight in the manual, or something else. I doubt that it really matters as long as the tape deck works reliably.

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I’m glad to hear that you figured out the issue. I wouldn’t have guessed that particular thing was your problem.

The markings on those Piher pots is difficult to read. One tip that I have is to place the components in a block of foam that is marked for the value.

I like to test all of the new components before I install them. After they are tested, I stick them in the foam. This makes the re-cap/re-pot procedure go faster. I’ve also found new parts that are technically “in spec”, but are so marginal that I wouldn’t want to use them.

I also mark and stick the old components in the foam when I remove them. This makes it easy to test the old components to get an idea of how well they have aged.

BTW, the adjustment for the signal strength is one that you could get away with adjusting without instruments. Tune between strong and weak stations and adjust until the display gives a behavior that you like.

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In general, it is not a good idea. If you are stuck, use two polarized caps in series to make a non-polarized equivalent. You could also use a different value non-polarized cap. I’ve tried both of these solutions as a stop-gap until the correct part arrived.

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Did you test the amp separately on a bench setup? Was the amp working OK before the recap?

Posting some high resolution pictures of your board might be helpful.

You were on the right track comparing the properly operating channel to the channel with the issue.

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Now that I think about it, it isn’t too much of a shame since I’ve already had fun working on it and learned some new things in the process. Also, I now have a solid machine on which to experiment with my crazy ideas. Hacking this into something unique may provide more entertainment than doing a restoration.

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chartz: Thanks for the info. This is the kind of thing that makes this website great!

chilibt: Thanks for this picture! It makes it clear what is going on.

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5TR1 is listed as a BD534 in the Beocord 9000 service manual. Is what you have a TO-92 or TO-220 package?

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I had a very similar issue. Unfortunately, I wasn’t able to figure out how to get it apart for proper cleaning and lubrication. It seems logical that, if it was assembled, it could be disassembled. I didn’t want to risk permanently damaging the part either.

Mine wasn’t that bad and I got it to run free by adding a very small amount of plastic safe oil and spinning it until it ran free. I would have rather restored it properly.

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chilibt: Is your question about the plastic part not spinning easily on the metal shaft when that sub-assembly is removed from the main-assembly? (sorry if my description isn’t very good)

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kingside wrote:

You are saying however that the clip is preventing an upward motion and that is what needs to be released while applying a gentile upward pressure

Yes. The clip is part of (or attached to) the button panel. It will move up with the panel when it is released.

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That panel is easier. With the top in normal (non-service) position, I’ll position the Beocord on the edge on a table with the front edge of the Beocord overhanging. There are three rectangular holes in the bottom to get access to the clips. I start with the rightmost one. First put the screwdriver between the clip and the front of the deck. The first time you do this you’ll probably need to visually locate the clip.  Put upwards pressure on the right edge of the switch panel and twist the screwdriver just enough to release the clip. Once the the first clip is released, repeat for the middle and left clips, all while lifting up on the switch panel. After the front is free, lift it just enough the clear the front clips, then pull forward.

After you’ve done this a few times, it can be done strictly by feel in about 10 seconds ;-).

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Congratulations!  It is good to hear that another BM6000 has avoided being parted out.

I might end up parting out my dead-CPU BM6000. As of now, it needs a CPU and a volume motor. It is kind of a shame since it is fully restored otherwise (reflowed, recapped, sliders/switched cleaned/lubed, FM aligned, LEDs rebuilt, etc.). The cosmetic condition of the machine (~5/10) is such that it would be cost prohibitive to fix (i.e. the parts would cost more than the fixed receiver is worth).

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kingside wrote:

If anyone has removed the control panel I would appreciate knowing precisely how you were able to do so and what tools you used.

Yep, the description in the service manual could be improved.

What I do is loosen the two screws on the back and put the upper panel into the service position (i.e. open it like a clam shell). This will give you access to the three clips for the control cover. Using a medium size straight slot screwdriver, move the outermost clip just enough to release it while pulling the aluminum cover forward. Don’t deflect the clip any further than you need to because it WILL break if you bend it too far. After the lip of the outer clip is released, do the same for the middle clip. Repeat for the last clip. The first clip will be the most difficult to get free.

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You are most likely triggering the amp FAULT circuitry, which puts the unit into STBY.

Verify the polarity of your voltage (and indirectly current) measurement.

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Based on your earlier descriptions, the “no keyboard” issue pretty much “had” to be broken traces. It is interesting to hear about where and how the breaks occur. Many times it is due to a stressed or warped circuit board.

The “no signal strength LED” issue is (most likely) either an open circuit between Board-8 or Board-6 and the LEDs on Board-2, or the trim pots on Board-8 being out of adjustment. It could also be a solder bridge or a number of other self-inflicted issues. I’d start by checking for cold solder joints on the edge connectors and measuring for continuity between the signal origins and destinations.

As far as the FM trim pots (Board-8), you might to check out this thread: Strategy for Changing Capacitors and Trim Pots on FM Tuner. My experience is that the settings on the FM board are pretty robust if all you want is to receive strong FM stations with poor sound quality. The settings are very sensitive for a properly aligned tuner with good sound quality and reception sensitivity. The odds of properly aligning the FM without measurement equipment are pretty much nil.

Setting the Tuning Voltage with 8R44 and 8R46 will likely fix your tuning range issue. However, it these are far enough out-of-adjustment to give you the described symptoms, you probably have many other FM alignment issues.

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With either the “stacked Penta” or “stacked BL200” you will need to figure out how to route the wires through the amps. The wire routing might be the most challenging part of the project.

I’m looking forward to seeing pictures of whatever you build.

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I’ve always thought that it would be cool to “stack” two amps at the bottom and bi-amp the Pentas. I don’t think that they would sound much better, but I think they would look better being 15cm taller. 😉

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I would try the “impact” method before WD-40. You should be careful with any oils or solvents (even water) with B&O equipment. I’ve had more “unexpected” reactions from the finishes on B&O equipment than any other equipment that I’ve worked on.

I like to use “hook tools” to gently lift the platter from the bottom (versus inserting something and prying).

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