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No, these are not ICs you would enjoy replacing just for the fun of it.
Put a scope on the control pins and see if everything goes to binary plan when you run the volume up and down.
If it does, swap the two ICs to see if the problem moves to the other side.
If it doesn’t, find out where the missing bit went missing, bad connectors, cracked solder joint, broken cable etc.Martin
Missing bit to one of the volume control ICs.
Or a bad IC.Martin
There are several, slightly different, versions.
Three of the ones shown here have different transistors, and the last one is an entirely different (earlier) version, mainly seen in 41FV and 42FV.Martin
Could also be a Siemens SAB8032A-P or a third type I don’t recall right now.
You will have to look inside.
When you know the type ask at Beoparts-shop. Even if not listed, quite often old stock can
be found there which is much better than buying asian counterfeits off Ebay etc.Martin
Sounds like a Beocenter 7000 rather than a Beomaster 7000.
Martin
Different transistors and diodes were used in production.
Indeed OA81 are found in some versions.Mexking, I still have your RIAA here, remember.
– And it actually has OA81 fitted.Martin
They are not 22uF.
A 1960s 22uF film capacitor would be the size of a beer can.
Look again. Rotate it or lift one end away from the PCB.
I’m sure it says 0,022uF.
That’s quite normal. As is 22000pF, which is also 22nF.
Just like the one next to it says 1uF if you cover the “0,”.Some of the most reliable capacitors on this planet, those “Mullard mustards” are.
Martin
Sure it doesn’t say 0,022uF?
That would be 22nF.Martin
1
OA70 are germanium diodes.
Not schottky! (No schottky in power supplies).2 and 3
They are styroflex capacitors.
If you cannot find styroflex, you can fit polyester capacitors for 2 and ceramic for 3.Martin
For the older products, there is no link between serial numbers and production dates.
Beomaster 8000 was produced 1981-83.Martin
From serial number 2554003 the monitor function was moved from TP1 to TP2.
This required a change to the slave CPU, the preamplifier and the socket panel.Martin
Intersting indeed.
0:37 Not Beomaster 4000 but Beomaster 1100
0:40 Beomaster 1400
0:44 Beomaster 900
0:48 Minette 609
1:03 Hifi Stereo Amplifier 608
1:05 Minette 512 (x2)
1:31 Master Deluxe 42K
1:33 Grand Prix 41
3:34 Beovision 500
3:38 Horisont TV 609K (not a 609T because it has no carrying handle on top).
3:42 Capri TV 611 SJ FM
3:49 Grand Prix TV 513 S
3:53 Master Deluxe 606 S (21″)
4:48 Still not sure this is a B&O
5:09 Building furniture series.
Top left could be a Record player Type GS, a storage cabinet Type A or something else – will have to open to know.
Top right Grand Prix 606.
Bottom 2x Speakers. Could be type M. Not sure.
5:30 Could be Beovox 5000
5:31 Type S
5:32 Type M
5:34 Two speakers on top of eachother could be Beovox 1100 or Beovox 2200 (they are not Beovox 1000)
To their right could be two Beovox 2700 or Beovox 2702.
5:54 Replica Hyperbo 5RGS. Not a genuine B&O product.
7:22 Not B&O. The sliderule that inspired Beomaster 1200 (and Beomaster 1001).
7:34 The middle one is a Beomaster 3000 early series (FM to 108MHz).
7:39 Beolit 500
8:10 Grand Prix Present Stereo 609K
9:16 Junior 38
9:21 Master 39K With custom pushbutton station arrangement
9:48 Standard 506RG
10:05 Master Deluxe 39RG
10:25 Beosystem 5500 on F1000 Audio & Video Storage System
10:39 (Not Beovox M100). Could be Beovox S55, Beovox S80 or Beovox S80.2. Can’t tell if they have alu trim round the back.
10:57 Beocenter 2300 DAB with Beolab 2500 speakersWhat I could find time for today.
Martin
Er den den originale pladetallerken?
Kan du se, hvad den skraber på?Martin
Er det transportskruerne, den skraber på?
Martin
Unless you are absolutely sure you know what you’re doing, it’s never a good idea to swap servo PCBs between lasers. Let alone across different drive versions.
Martin
Check that the carriage rails haven’t come out of their holders.
Martin
Will it play for only one or two platter revolutions or can it play a minute or more?
If only one or two revolutions;
– Damaged needle tip
– Wrongly set tracking force
In the above mentioned cases the sound will almost always also be bad/distorted.If a minute or more and the < and > buttons work fine:
– Tracking lamp/opto-interrupter badly adjusted (needs adjusting after replacing lamp/opto components – see the servicemanual)If a minute or more and the < and > buttons only lifts the tonearm but doesn’t move the carriage:
– Bad carriage motor belt
– Bad carriage motorNo sound at all – check that the needle actually touches the record.
Martin
Did the smell come from the drive?
Can you still smell where it came from?It’s not uncommon to see the ribbon cable damaged where it is held by the black clip.
The cable goes around sharp corners and it takes only very little pulling to damage the cable.
It’s also very short – only long enough to reach the board socket. Inexperienced repairers
can accidentally pull it when dismounting the board from the drive, because they may
not know the cable is there.
I would check the cable on the drive that wasn’t burned.Martin
Hi i am new to the forum, I have been reading the different topics without luck on finding the issue I have, so decided to open this topic, thanks in advance for your support. I got a Beogram 6000 from a neighbor who did not have the time a patience to try to fixed it. It is in fare condition I must say, but I notice different hands try to make it work with no luck. Anyway, at first I saw the bulb on the detector arm was not working, easy fix, follow the circuitry and found the zener diode ID09 broken, replaced it along with the TR10 transistor and voila, detection of LP works again, disc are detected and the arm lower properly. I also replace main electrolytic capacitors, filter C1, C2, C3 at the motor and the bipolar C4 along with C13 to C16. Now, the big issue I have is that after some time playing music, the transformer gets really hot and the fuses blown. From the beginning I found weird, and still, that the chasis is not connected to the negative part of the circuit. Inspecting the schematics, the only clear physical-electrical connection to the chasis is through 47nF capacitor to the shield of the cable that goes to the amplifier. Am I missing something here? How I am suppose to measure voltages and signals to chasis when clearly there is no electrical connection between them! That puzzles me, and I am not sure this has connection with the overheating of the transformer, I believe so, but I cannot find anywhere in the service manual other electrical connection to chasis. I would really appreciate your advise and comments, time being I will start replacing old capacitors. I suspect of the solenoid circuit that is draining too much current, but at first seems to be ok… thansk Christian
The chassis is not signal ground.
Don’t use the chassis as ground reference when measuring.
The capacitive coupling is correct.Apparently something is pulling too much current.
If the motor phase is set correctly you will have to separate circuits to see, what is pulling a lot of current.Martin
You can replace the cord if you are handy.
Martin
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