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Yes I think you’re probably right, I was just hoping that the fact that it will still record but not play might mean the HDD is okay.
It’s probably not worth the cost of replacing the HDD, to be honest I use a Beosound 5 for digital music anyway. It’s just nice to have things working fully.
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Oh by the way, I did also run testmode 37 again after running testmode 27, and it worked that time and reset the system to default settings, but the HDD still won’t play – I still get ‘HDD Lock’ in the display if I try to play from CD Mem.
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Ah yes, thanks, it shows CDM Error 18, which is ‘HDD Access Error’. Seems strange that it still records but doesn’t play though.
Does anyone know if there is any way to ‘reset’ the HDD?
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I know this is an old post but I’m having the same trouble – the string came loose on mine and I can’t get it back on. In the service manual it shows that in one direction the string should be 1/2 turns round the drum coming round the top, and the other end 3 turns round the drum coming round the bottom. It’s really hard to do that without removing the drum, and then it all comes loose again when you push the drum back into place! The little spring that sits inside the drum, to which both ends of the string are attached, seems to have come loose in mine and there doesn’t seem to be anything for the spring to attach too. I expect there was some little lug or catch within the drum which the spring connected to, and it was perhaps worn or snapped off, so the spring doesn’t remain in place. That’s probably the reason the string came loose in fact.
I have another non-functioning 901 which is in quote poor cosmetic condition, but the tuning seems to move smoothly. I was thinking of taking the whole string and drum out of that and putting into the working 901, but I know that will still be really fiddly and hard to do, so I’ve been putting it off!
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I have taken a look at the mountings studs and they are screw-threaded on either end, but not all the way along the shaft, so I’m not sure how you could shorten them. Getting a shorter alternative would seem to be the best option.
I broke one of the mounting studs on my Beolab Penta and I contacted Quality Dream Audio to ask if they had any spare. They did, and they sold them to me quite cheap. It might be worth contacting them to ask if they have any Beovox Penta studs.
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Thanks for the tip. Yes both of those measurements seem to be right. I had already attempted to adjust the platter height as described in the service manual, but it makes no difference to this specific problem as the whole mechanism is either lifted or lowered, so the distance between the wire drive pulley and the platter wheel remains unchanged.
It’s as if the wire drive pulley is lifting just a little bit as it brings the tonearm to the centre of the platter. It is just about making contact with the underside of the platter wheel. I cannot see any way to increase the height of the platter (independent of the mechanism) or to lower that wire drive pulley.
If I apply a little bit of force to the wire drive pulley while it is making contact, then spin the platter wheel, they come away from each other and the platter wheel moves freely, but once I move the tonearm out and then back in again, the issue instantly returns.
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Following this, out of curiousity I looked inside by Beogram 4500, 8500 and 9500, which I know have essentially the same mechanism. I found in each case that the clearance between the platter wheel and the wire drive pulley is very small – probably 0.5mm if that.
However, on my Beogram 3300, I am still unable to figure out why they are meeting each other when the arm is moved inward. I have been unable to find any way to adjust it.
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Hi
Im interested in the 6500 with the cartridge but without the stand. I’m in Halifax so not a million miles away – have you a price in mind?
Kind Regards. Robert
I could sell it without the stand yes, but the Beogram 6500 is in for service with Multicare at the moment as it needed a new part. Multicare tell me that it should be ready next month – can we put a raincheck in this until then? I’d be happy to deliver to Halifax by the way as I travel that way quite often anyway.
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Thanks Guy, had a feeling it would be that but didn’t want to risk it. Happy to say I got the bottom off, used some plastic glue to fix the break, reassembled, and it’s working. It’s looking a bit worn as these bases often do, but at least it’s working.
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Generally referred to as the Input/Output ‘cover’ or ‘door’. I’ve had some in the past and sold them on eBay, but I don’t have one now sorry. They do break easily so it’s a part that’s in reasonable demand.
One tip though – the same part for the Beocenter 8000, 8500, 9000 or 9300 will fit. It will have the wrong badge on it, but the badge clips off, so you could exchange it with the badge on your broken one.
Worth searching on eBay for one.
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Note that the glass panels from the Beocenter 8000, 8500 or 9000 should also be a suitable replacement. The 9300 has a slightly different layout for the lights (specifically the lights related to Tape functions, if I remember correctly).
Make sure you remove and retain the plastic surround from your broken glass, as this may not be included with any replacement that you buy.
They come up on eBay sometimes if you can be patient. I’ve sold some myself in the past, usually for about £50-£60.
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Yes, I selected ‘Other’ for my Beolab 3000s because they’re not listed, being much older than the TV. They work fine on that setting.
My Mk2 cables are skinny, but they are round Powerlink plugs both ends. I already had those cables, so when I bought the BV11, I bought some fully-wired (Mk2) RJ45-to-Round Powerlink adapters so I could connect them to the TV.
You’ve also got me thinking – I could add the ML/MCL Converter and my Beovox CX50s as ‘back’ speakers in my surround sound setup. I have centre, front, surround and sub speakers but could use that to add back-surround speakers too, creating a 7.1 setup.
The room isn’t really big enough to need back-surround speakers but I’m probably won’t be able to help myself from trying it! Come to think of it, I know I’ve got wall mounts for those CX50s somewhere…
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I happen to have a BV11-46 myself (only recently bought it in fact), and I have Mk2 Powerlink cables connecting it to my BL3000 and BL Penta speakers.
I happen to also have an ML/MCL Converter and also happen to have a pair of CX50s, so I just disconnected the Pentas, and connected the ML/MCL Converter and the CX50s in their place. Happily, I can tell you that the converter powered on, and the sound was heard from the CX50s.
So, unless your ML/MCL converter is faulty, I would think this indicates that you just need a Mk2 Powerlink cable.
As far as I know by the way, the Beolink Passive is basically the same thing as the ML/MCL Converter, just a later version with a new name. Someone may correct me on that though.
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Thanks – I tried it again today but I unplugged the yellow composite video RCA and left only the red and white audio RCAs connected – the sound came through fine, so it seemed that the composite video (yellow) RCA was the one that wasn’t wired correctly.
So, out of curiously I connected the red plug from the GameCube to the Yellow plug of the adapter, and I still got sound! Same if I connect the White to Yellow. It seems that all 3 plugs on the adapter are connecting to the audio of the TV, so clearly it is not wired the same as the official B&O adapter.
I would buy an HDMI adapter for the GameCube, but all of my HDMI sockets on the BV11 are taken, plus I used to have such an adapter for my old Wii, and the picture quality was awful.
If anyone knows where I could get hold of an official B&O Mini DIN to SCART adapter please let me know. In the meantime I’ll save a search for one on eBay.
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Update – I received the cable from eBay (9 PIN Mini AV to 3 RCA – Yellow, Red, White) and tried to connect my GameCube to the BV11 with that cable but it didn’t work. All I got was a buzzing noise and a blank screen when I switched the GameCube on. I’ll have to keep looking for the official B&O SCART adapter.
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Thanks for all the help. I’ll keep an eye out on eBay in case one of those official B&O SCART adapters ever comes up, as that would be useful to have.
Steve does sell a cable but it’s audio only, so I found one on eBay which is 9 PIN Mini-AV to 3xRCA (left, right, video), and I have a GameCube cable that will connect to that. Hopefully that will work – I’ll post here when it arrives.
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I now have the TV, I was short a couple of Powerlink (RJ45 to DIN) adapters and they arrived today, so finally it’s all set up.
I’m happy to say it all works. The Beosound 5 is set as an audio slave, the Beosound 9000 is set in Opt.0, and both are connected to a ML junction box, which in turn is connected to the Beolink Converter NL/ML, and that is connected to the Beovision 11-46 TV.
All speakers are connected to the TV (Beolab 3000 front, Beolab Penta surround, and Beolab 2 sub).
It all seems to work – everything works via the remote (I use a Beo4, Beo6 and Beoremote 1), and if I start to play either the BS9000 or BS5 direct from the unit itself, it also works.
The only oddities I have found are:
- If I use the Beosound 5’s own standby button, it stops playing, but it does not put the whole system into standby, whereas the Beosound 9000 standby button does put the whole system into standby.
- Although I do have Mk2 Powerlink converters, the displays on my BL3000 and BL Penta only show ‘TV’ and the volume, no matter what source is playing. Oddly, the speaker displays only work if set to Audio rather than Video – I’m assuming this is just a restriction of the BV11, being much newer that the speakers.
- My BV11 came with a Panasonic Blu-ray player which is mounted rather nicely on the back. I have set it up with the PUC cable but for some reason, it powers on whenever I power on the system, rather than only powering on when I set that source. It also does not power off when I put the system into standby, even though I have set it to do that in the BV11 settings.
I do have one question – I like a bit or retro gaming and I would like to connect my old Nintendo GameCube to it. I have a S-VHS cable for the GameCube but found that it does not fit into the little round AV socket on the BV11. Could anyone tell me what kind of plug that AV socket takes?
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Yes I’m quite convinced I shorted the pins while I was messing about with it – my own stupid fault for not disconnecting it from the mains. This at least explains why the TV is working fine, with the exception of the stand.
I dropped my Beogram 6500 off at Multicare today for repair, so it looks like when I go to pick that up in the New Year, I’ll be taking my TV to them for repair too!
Now I’m trying to get it all connected to my Beosound 9000 and Beosound 5 via a Beolink Converter NL/ML. Not figured it all out yet, but I’ll keep trying…
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I’m now convinced I must have shorted the pins for the stand connection while I was trying to get the plug to fit in properly, and that caused something to blow inside the TV, relating to the way it controls the stand. That explains why the TV is working but the stand is not. Those pins are a bit of a nightmare – I unplugged the stand again and now I can’t get the plug back in again.
I’ve had it 2 hours and I think I’ve already broken it due to my own carelessness!
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