Forum Replies Created
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Generally referred to as the Input/Output ‘cover’ or ‘door’. I’ve had some in the past and sold them on eBay, but I don’t have one now sorry. They do break easily so it’s a part that’s in reasonable demand.
One tip though – the same part for the Beocenter 8000, 8500, 9000 or 9300 will fit. It will have the wrong badge on it, but the badge clips off, so you could exchange it with the badge on your broken one.
Worth searching on eBay for one.
Location: Liverpool
My B&O Icons:
Note that the glass panels from the Beocenter 8000, 8500 or 9000 should also be a suitable replacement. The 9300 has a slightly different layout for the lights (specifically the lights related to Tape functions, if I remember correctly).
Make sure you remove and retain the plastic surround from your broken glass, as this may not be included with any replacement that you buy.
They come up on eBay sometimes if you can be patient. I’ve sold some myself in the past, usually for about £50-£60.
Location: Liverpool
My B&O Icons:
Yes, I selected ‘Other’ for my Beolab 3000s because they’re not listed, being much older than the TV. They work fine on that setting.
My Mk2 cables are skinny, but they are round Powerlink plugs both ends. I already had those cables, so when I bought the BV11, I bought some fully-wired (Mk2) RJ45-to-Round Powerlink adapters so I could connect them to the TV.
You’ve also got me thinking – I could add the ML/MCL Converter and my Beovox CX50s as ‘back’ speakers in my surround sound setup. I have centre, front, surround and sub speakers but could use that to add back-surround speakers too, creating a 7.1 setup.
The room isn’t really big enough to need back-surround speakers but I’m probably won’t be able to help myself from trying it! Come to think of it, I know I’ve got wall mounts for those CX50s somewhere…
Location: Liverpool
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I happen to have a BV11-46 myself (only recently bought it in fact), and I have Mk2 Powerlink cables connecting it to my BL3000 and BL Penta speakers.
I happen to also have an ML/MCL Converter and also happen to have a pair of CX50s, so I just disconnected the Pentas, and connected the ML/MCL Converter and the CX50s in their place. Happily, I can tell you that the converter powered on, and the sound was heard from the CX50s.
So, unless your ML/MCL converter is faulty, I would think this indicates that you just need a Mk2 Powerlink cable.
As far as I know by the way, the Beolink Passive is basically the same thing as the ML/MCL Converter, just a later version with a new name. Someone may correct me on that though.
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks – I tried it again today but I unplugged the yellow composite video RCA and left only the red and white audio RCAs connected – the sound came through fine, so it seemed that the composite video (yellow) RCA was the one that wasn’t wired correctly.
So, out of curiously I connected the red plug from the GameCube to the Yellow plug of the adapter, and I still got sound! Same if I connect the White to Yellow. It seems that all 3 plugs on the adapter are connecting to the audio of the TV, so clearly it is not wired the same as the official B&O adapter.
I would buy an HDMI adapter for the GameCube, but all of my HDMI sockets on the BV11 are taken, plus I used to have such an adapter for my old Wii, and the picture quality was awful.
If anyone knows where I could get hold of an official B&O Mini DIN to SCART adapter please let me know. In the meantime I’ll save a search for one on eBay.
Location: Liverpool
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Update – I received the cable from eBay (9 PIN Mini AV to 3 RCA – Yellow, Red, White) and tried to connect my GameCube to the BV11 with that cable but it didn’t work. All I got was a buzzing noise and a blank screen when I switched the GameCube on. I’ll have to keep looking for the official B&O SCART adapter.
Location: Liverpool
My B&O Icons:
Thanks for all the help. I’ll keep an eye out on eBay in case one of those official B&O SCART adapters ever comes up, as that would be useful to have.
Steve does sell a cable but it’s audio only, so I found one on eBay which is 9 PIN Mini-AV to 3xRCA (left, right, video), and I have a GameCube cable that will connect to that. Hopefully that will work – I’ll post here when it arrives.
Location: Liverpool
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I now have the TV, I was short a couple of Powerlink (RJ45 to DIN) adapters and they arrived today, so finally it’s all set up.
I’m happy to say it all works. The Beosound 5 is set as an audio slave, the Beosound 9000 is set in Opt.0, and both are connected to a ML junction box, which in turn is connected to the Beolink Converter NL/ML, and that is connected to the Beovision 11-46 TV.
All speakers are connected to the TV (Beolab 3000 front, Beolab Penta surround, and Beolab 2 sub).
It all seems to work – everything works via the remote (I use a Beo4, Beo6 and Beoremote 1), and if I start to play either the BS9000 or BS5 direct from the unit itself, it also works.
The only oddities I have found are:
- If I use the Beosound 5’s own standby button, it stops playing, but it does not put the whole system into standby, whereas the Beosound 9000 standby button does put the whole system into standby.
- Although I do have Mk2 Powerlink converters, the displays on my BL3000 and BL Penta only show ‘TV’ and the volume, no matter what source is playing. Oddly, the speaker displays only work if set to Audio rather than Video – I’m assuming this is just a restriction of the BV11, being much newer that the speakers.
- My BV11 came with a Panasonic Blu-ray player which is mounted rather nicely on the back. I have set it up with the PUC cable but for some reason, it powers on whenever I power on the system, rather than only powering on when I set that source. It also does not power off when I put the system into standby, even though I have set it to do that in the BV11 settings.
I do have one question – I like a bit or retro gaming and I would like to connect my old Nintendo GameCube to it. I have a S-VHS cable for the GameCube but found that it does not fit into the little round AV socket on the BV11. Could anyone tell me what kind of plug that AV socket takes?
Location: Liverpool
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Yes I’m quite convinced I shorted the pins while I was messing about with it – my own stupid fault for not disconnecting it from the mains. This at least explains why the TV is working fine, with the exception of the stand.
I dropped my Beogram 6500 off at Multicare today for repair, so it looks like when I go to pick that up in the New Year, I’ll be taking my TV to them for repair too!
Now I’m trying to get it all connected to my Beosound 9000 and Beosound 5 via a Beolink Converter NL/ML. Not figured it all out yet, but I’ll keep trying…
Location: Liverpool
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I’m now convinced I must have shorted the pins for the stand connection while I was trying to get the plug to fit in properly, and that caused something to blow inside the TV, relating to the way it controls the stand. That explains why the TV is working but the stand is not. Those pins are a bit of a nightmare – I unplugged the stand again and now I can’t get the plug back in again.
I’ve had it 2 hours and I think I’ve already broken it due to my own carelessness!
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks carolpa. It hadn’t crossed my mind to connect both the BS5 and the Moment, but I suppose I might as well. They both do the same job – play my music stored on a NAS drive, but the Moment does have the advantage of Deezer too, for which I have a premium account, so that will be useful.
I know the sources won’t show correct on my speakers, but I’ve already learned to live with that – I know that N.Music shows as Tape 2 and DVD/Blu-Ray shows as CDV. I’m glad to hear the displays will work though; it would be a shame to have them and not use them.
I only have one Beolink Converter, I’ll see how I get on using only one, but you can get them quite cheap on eBay these days so if it doesn’t work quite right, I’ll get another.
Right, I’ll start moving things around and routing the cables, ready for the TV pickup on Friday!
Location: Liverpool
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Excellent – I’m glad it worked, and glad it sounds so good. Few made tape decks like B&O.
Location: Liverpool
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When I glued a little price of plastic on to mine, I did not remove the metal part, I did it very careful with some quick drying glue specifically intended for plastic, and the piece of plastic was a bit of an old credit card I shaved thin (only a fraction of a mm was needed) with a scalpel. It took me three attempts. My first attempt the price of plastic I added was a bit too thick. The second attempt worked for a bit, but came loose. The third attempt I used more glue, and that worked. It took a good bit of patience with a pair of tweezers, but I got it glued on in the end.
You see the white plastic part that sits beneath the metal part, and it moves up and down? Well. that is moving to far down while the tape is playing, and it causes the little white cog connected to it to click, because it’s not quite in the right position, and it catches on another part (I’m saying this all from memory, mind!). I believe that same issue is causing the speed control issue when you play side 1 too.
Location: Liverpool
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It’s a while since I fixed my BC8000 cassette deck that required that particular clicking fix, but re-reading my post in this forum aty the time, where I got the adice that allowed me to fix it, and did mention at the time that I got speed issues on side 1, but clicking on side 2. Your side 1 problem sounds a little worse than mine, but I think the same fault is causing both issues, so I would recommend that fix – Beocenter 8000 tape deck clicking issue – BeoWorld Forum.
Location: Liverpool
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I have replaced the belts on that type of tape deck a few times, my first time being on a Beocenter 8000 like yours, and again only recently on a Beocord 6500. The only useful video I found was this one – Bang & Olufsen Beocord 4500 Cassette deck trouble shooting and new belts.
The video doesn’t go into exact detail but it should help. The large belt is the difficult one, and it took me a few attempts to get it to loop around the small plastic wheel each time.
Note that there is another common fault with that type of tape deck which I also experienced on the Beocenter 8000. Dillen helped me solve that a couple of years ago, see this post for the solution, in case you encounter it – Beocenter 8000 tape deck clicking issue – BeoWorld Forum
For that clicking issue, I used a shaving of plastic which was probably only about 0.25mm thick, and glued it on using plastic glue. I worked, and still works now.
Location: Liverpool
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I’ve repaired maybe three of four Beocord 2000s, and I don’t recognise that washer. That’s all I can offer though!
Location: Liverpool
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I’ve never owned a BV10 but on the BV7 and BV8 (which I have owned), you need to tell the TV which HDMI socket is used for each input.
In the BV7 or BV8 you would go to Menu, then Connections, then select one of the available AVs from the list. Once selected, you would choose which source that connection would respond to (V.Mem, PC, DVD and so on), and which HDMI socket it would use. Press OK/Play to save it, and it should work.
Location: Liverpool
My B&O Icons:
I didn’t know that, thank you.
There doesn’t seem to be a perfect solution then. I could use the BS3 as it is intended, with all devices connected to it, but then I’d only be getting 1080p when the TV’s own apps would give me 4K.
I’ve been unable to find a TV which has a dedicated HDMI output, which would solve the problem. As Tignum says, perhaps they don’t exist!
It’s hard to find out if a TV transcodes to AC3; the info is not always clear in the sales literature for the models I’ve looked at.
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks for the advice.
It looks like this is an option for me. I think I will use the SPDIF output of the TV, which I know most if not all modern TVs have, and use an optical SPDIF to Coax converter (I happen to already have one) so I can feed that to one of the digital Coax inputs of the BS3.
I love the idea of using PUC – I do also happen to have a PUC cable (one with two IR blasters) but I have no idea how to use them – I’m assuming a B&O engineer would need to add the TV model to the BS3 as a PUC device, so I can control it?
I also have a couple of Beo6 remotes which I know can apparently control 3rd party devices, but while I have been able to reprogram my Beo6s several times for my B&O devices, I have no idea how to program them to work with 3rd party devices.
Nevertheless, looks like I’ll be shopping for a big TV soon then!
Location: Liverpool
My B&O Icons:
Yes I’m sure you’re right. I don’t think I’m confident enough to do that myself. I’ll take another look at it tonight but it seems likely I’ll need to get a professional to look at it.
I know Multicare will be able to fix it, but I was just hoping to avoid a long drive to Leeds!
Location: Liverpool
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