[CharlieWednesday]

Yes I’m quite convinced I shorted the pins while I was messing about with it – my own stupid fault for not disconnecting it from the mains.  This at least explains why the TV is working fine, with the exception of the stand.

I dropped my Beogram 6500 off at Multicare today for repair, so it looks like when I go to pick that up in the New Year, I’ll be taking my TV to them for repair too!

Now I’m trying to get it all connected to my Beosound 9000 and Beosound 5 via a Beolink Converter NL/ML.  Not figured it all out yet, but I’ll keep trying…

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

I’m now convinced I must have shorted the pins for the stand connection while I was trying to get the plug to fit in properly, and that caused something to blow inside the TV, relating to the way it controls the stand.  That explains why the TV is working but the stand is not.  Those pins are a bit of a nightmare – I unplugged the stand again and now I can’t get the plug back in again.

I’ve had it 2 hours and I think I’ve already broken it due to my own carelessness!

 

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks carolpa.  It hadn’t crossed my mind to connect both the BS5 and the Moment, but I suppose I might as well.  They both do the same job – play my music stored on a NAS drive, but the Moment does have the advantage of Deezer too, for which I have a premium account, so that will be useful.

I know the sources won’t show correct on my speakers, but I’ve already learned to live with that – I know that N.Music shows as Tape 2 and DVD/Blu-Ray shows as CDV.  I’m glad to hear the displays will work though; it would be a shame to have them and not use them.

I only have one Beolink Converter, I’ll see how I get on using only one, but you can get them quite cheap on eBay these days so if it doesn’t work quite right, I’ll get another.

Right, I’ll start moving things around and routing the cables, ready for the TV pickup on Friday!

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Excellent – I’m glad it worked, and glad it sounds so good.  Few made tape decks like B&O.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

When I glued a little price of plastic on to mine, I did not remove the metal part, I did it very careful with some quick drying glue specifically intended for plastic, and the piece of plastic was a bit of an old credit card I shaved thin (only a fraction of a mm was needed) with a scalpel.  It took me three attempts.  My first attempt the price of plastic I added was a bit too thick.  The second attempt worked for a bit, but came loose.  The third attempt I used more glue, and that worked.  It took a good bit of patience with a pair of tweezers, but I got it glued on in the end.

You see the white plastic part that sits beneath the metal part, and it moves up and down?  Well. that is moving to far down while the tape is playing, and it causes the little white cog connected to it to click, because it’s not quite in the right position, and it catches on another part (I’m saying this all from memory, mind!).  I believe that same issue is causing the speed control issue when you play side 1 too.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

It’s a while since I fixed my BC8000 cassette deck that required that particular clicking fix, but re-reading my post in this forum aty the time, where I got the adice that allowed me to fix it, and did mention at the time that I got speed issues on side 1, but clicking on side 2.  Your side 1 problem sounds a little worse than mine, but I think the same fault is causing both issues, so I would recommend that fix – Beocenter 8000 tape deck clicking issue – BeoWorld Forum.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

I have replaced the belts on that type of tape deck a few times, my first time being on a Beocenter 8000 like yours, and again only recently on a Beocord 6500.  The only useful video I found was this one – Bang & Olufsen Beocord 4500 Cassette deck trouble shooting and new belts.

The video doesn’t go into exact detail but it should help.  The large belt is the difficult one, and it took me a few attempts to get it to loop around the small plastic wheel each time.

Note that there is another common fault with that type of tape deck which I also experienced on the Beocenter 8000.  Dillen helped me solve that a couple of years ago, see this post for the solution, in case you encounter it – Beocenter 8000 tape deck clicking issue – BeoWorld Forum

For that clicking issue, I used a shaving of plastic which was probably only about 0.25mm thick, and glued it on using plastic glue.  I worked, and still works now.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

I’ve repaired maybe three of four Beocord 2000s, and I don’t recognise that washer.  That’s all I can offer though!

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

I’ve never owned a BV10 but on the BV7 and BV8 (which I have owned), you need to tell the TV which HDMI socket is used for each input.

In the BV7 or BV8 you would go to Menu, then Connections, then select one of the available AVs from the list.  Once selected, you would choose which source that connection would respond to (V.Mem, PC, DVD and so on), and which HDMI socket it would use.  Press OK/Play to save it, and it should work.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

I didn’t know that, thank you.

There doesn’t seem to be a perfect solution then.  I could use the BS3 as it is intended, with all devices connected to it, but then I’d only be getting 1080p when the TV’s own apps would give me 4K.

I’ve been unable to find a TV which has a dedicated HDMI output, which would solve the problem.  As Tignum says, perhaps they don’t exist!

It’s hard to find out if a TV transcodes to AC3; the info is not always clear in the sales literature for the models I’ve looked at.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks for the advice.

It looks like this is an option for me.  I think I will use the SPDIF output of the TV, which I know most if not all modern TVs have, and use an optical SPDIF to Coax converter (I happen to already have one) so I can feed that to one of the digital Coax inputs of the BS3.

I love the idea of using PUC – I do also happen to have a PUC cable (one with two IR blasters) but I have no idea how to use them – I’m assuming a B&O engineer would need to add the TV model to the BS3 as a PUC device, so I can control it?

I also have a couple of Beo6 remotes which I know can apparently control 3rd party devices, but while I have been able to reprogram my Beo6s several times for my B&O devices, I have no idea how to program them to work with 3rd party devices.

Nevertheless, looks like I’ll be shopping for a big TV soon then!

Location: Liverpool

My B&O Icons:

[CharlieWednesday]

Yes I’m sure you’re right.  I don’t think I’m confident enough to do that myself.  I’ll take another look at it tonight but it seems likely I’ll need to get a professional to look at it.

I know Multicare will be able to fix it, but I was just hoping to avoid a long drive to Leeds!

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

I realise it’s not easy to triage remotely, so thanks yery much for trying.

Yes, exactly as you have said.  Cam Wheel Z (1604) is frozen in place.  So is Swingring Y.  As a result of those being frozen Wire Pulley A is also frozen, even if I remove the wire.

If I do remove the wire from Wire Pulley A, the tonearm moves smoothly, so the only thing that I can gather so far is that the tonearm is not the cause of the problem.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Today I plucked up the courage to disconnect the wire drive that moves the tonearm.  With that disconnected the tonearm moves smoothly, but it made no difference to the start/stop cog (part 1604) – still completely stuck in position.  I can see nothing broken so I’m sure it’s something out of place in the mechanism, but I’m buggered if I can find it.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Minor update – I have managed to get the raise/lower cog (part 1636 in the service manual) back to it’s correct position.  The start/stop cog (part 1604) is still stuck firstly in position and will not move at all.

I am unable to unscrew and lift the top panel to get a better look inside as the arm is stuck in a position that doesn’t give clearance for that.  I suppose I could disconnect the wire drive from the sliding chassis in order to move the arm and then lift the lid, but I’m reluctant to do that, especially since I am really not sure if it will help.

I have looked inside my Beogram 9500 for comparison and the raise/lower cog 1636 is now in the same position as the 9500.  In the 9500 the arm can easily be moved by pushing it, and the start/stop cog 1604 can be moved easily (if reluctantly!), but on the 6500, both of those the arm and the start/stop 1605 cog are stuck very firmly and will not move at all.

• This reply was modified 1 month, 1 week ago by CharlieWednesday.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Is it possible your Beosound Century is in Audio Option 0?  On your Beo4 hold down Standby and press List, then scroll to Option?, then scroll to A.Opt, then press 1.  This will ensure the Century is in ‘Receive IR Commands’ mode.

 

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

I have been thinking again about your setup @carolpa, and sorry for all of these questions, but if I get more than one Beolink Converter NL/ML, how exactly does that work?

• How do you control the devices in each room – via the device, or via the BLC (with an IR eye perhaps)?
• Does this work with your speakers connected to the ML device, or do the speakers need to be connected to the BLC directly?
• How are your BLCs set up – are they set as source centres?  Do you need to use IR mapping options?
• Can you play the source from one room in another room?  If so, are there any limitations to that?
• If I have my Beosystem 3 as a video source in Opt.2 and my Beosound 9000 as an audio source in Opt.0 (in the same room), could they both be connected to the same BLC?

I do have one BLC NL/ML which I bought to connect my Beosound Moment into my network, but it never really worked the way I wanted it to, and anyway I prefer my Beosound 5 over the Beosound Moment, so neither the Moment or the BLC are in use right now.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Ah of course, it’s not 1611/1614 converters I’d need more than one of, it’s NL/ML converters I’d need more than one of!  I only have one of those and don’t really plan to buy any more, but it’s an interesting idea.

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Thanks both.

Both the Beosound 4 and Beosound 9000 seem to be capable of being in A Opt. 5 or A Opt. 6, but as my speakers are connected to the Beosystem 3, that would not work fully for the reasons that Madskp gives (or not without a Powerlink switch, anyway)

Carolpa, that’s interesting re the NL system.  I do have a Beolink Converter NL/ML, and I have two 1611 converters, but I assume I’d need three 1611 (or 1614) converters?  I’d need one for the Beosound 9000, one for the Beosound 4, and one for the Beosystem 3?  Would that work with the speakers connected to my Beosystem 3 (for surround sound)?

I could have sworn I also had a 1614 converter somewhere, I’ll have to have a rummage in the spare room…

Location: Liverpool

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[CharlieWednesday]

Yes I think I saw an older post when you mentioned these.  Very creative!

I was only testing them out of curiosity really – my best use for them will be with a pair of Powerlink speakers (BL6000), but if I do get the opportunity to get the software updated, I will.

Location: Liverpool

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