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Thanks! I think I’ll open it up and check the connections are okay (after all, something could have come loose when I changed the battery).
It’s the summer solstice today so that might help, as long as I also paint my face in green and white stripes, and put one foot into a bucket salted of water.
By the way, I forgot to mention, I did try to ‘reset’ it using instructions found on the old forum (hold the GO button down for 30 seconds), but it didn’t work. It goes into standby after 3 seconds, but there’s no indication of anything happening after 30 seconds, and when I power it back up, the configuration remains.
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I have a Beocenter 8500 with the Mk1 tape deck, and mine has a similar issue (even after I replaced the belt). This sounds a bit complex and I’m not sure I want to risk the attempt, but thanks for the info anyway – I may give it a go.
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I’ve come home from work today and they are not humming, and I asked my partner (who has full colour vision!) to check the LED for me, and they were on standby/red. I’ll keep checking, but I will get Steve’s cable, as a better-quality shielded cable is likely to be an improvement on the basic one I have already.
Using my PC right now, they are coming out of standby as expected if I do something that causes a sound, and going back into standby about a minute after the sound stops, which is all as I would expect.
They are quite close to my PC monitor but that’s unavoidable as I am using them as PC speakers. One of them is also right next to my Beocom 2 phone, but the PSTN (Mk1) that I have that linked to is a good few feet away from the speakers.
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I got a pair of Beolab 4 from eBay, in great condition – they look like new. I got the version which do have Powerlink sockets just in case I want to use them with any of my B&O HiFi equipment in future, but I bought them to use with my PC.
As it turned out, I already had a cable with stereo 3.5mm to 2x mono 3.5mm (I don’t remember where it came from; I rarely throw a cable out). I connected them to my PC that way and they work fine. The volume is very loud, so for normal listening, my PC volume is set to only 4 out of 100!
The do go into standby if there is no audio from the PC for about a minute, and that’s exactly what I want them to do – in fact the switch on the underside needs to be set to Line In for this, not PC. If you set the switch to PC they remain powered on all of the time.
It’s difficult for me to tell if they are on standby or not as I am colourblind and can’t tell what colour the LED is, but I have found a problem. Last night when I stopped using my PC, they did go into standby (while I cannot see the colour of the LED, I did at least see that the colour did change). I switched off my PC, but when I came back into my office this morning, there was an obvious buzzing/feedback from the speakers. This is the exact same noise as I get if I unplug the 3.5mm plug from the back of the PC, so must be some kind of earth/cable feedback? I don’t have much understanding of these things though.
I’m wondering them if it could just be the quality of the cable. I think I’ll buy Steve’s cable that you recommended @Guy and see how I get on with that. Steve’s cable is advertised for this specific use, so Steve may have overcome that feedback issue with the shielding.
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Thanks Guy, that’s really helpful. I don’t have the Beoport anymore (I gave it to a friend when I got an Essence), but mine is really a gaming PC, so for gaming audio, they should stay on while I’m playing.
I saw a pair in great condition including stands for just over £200 on eBay, which was a bargain, and when I asked him a question about them, he doubled the price! I’m sure I’ll find a cheaper pair though, as I don’t really want the stands. I’ll keep my eye out for a pair on eBay, and thanks for the letting me know which cable I need.
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Ah thank you, that’s very useful. I know the BC6 came in various versions but I did not know some could only use PC for the DVI input, which would be an inconvenience for me. I’ll look out for the type numbers you mention above then.
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Ah, thank you, that’s really helpful. I knew I’d read something like this before but couldn’t find it.
Reason I ask, I’ve got hold of a Beomaster 4500 and Beogram CD 4500, both of which need repairs but they are in fantastic cosmetic condition. I was thinking that, with some clever wiring, I could connect my Beogram 9500, routing the audio signals through my dedicated pre-amp, but also somehow connecting the datalink pin to get that full Beolink action. Knowing what you’ve told me, this will be possible!
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Update – since posting this question I have discovered that the Beo4 Mk1 and Mk2 both seem to have PHONO available as a List button you can add. The Mk3 and Mk4 do not.
It may be dependent on the software version, but I currently have one each of Mk1, 2, 3 and 4, and that’s what I’ve found on these.
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Not a silly question at all and I have considered them, but Leeds is quite a long way away, so I was wondering if there was anyone closer, as I would much rather drop-off and collect in person.
If I can’t find anyone nearby, I’ll certainly ask them for a quote though.
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Update – the HDMI audio splitter arrived, so I connected it as AV4 with HDMI D used as the video input and SPDIF used as the audio input. As I suspected, this works for the main speakers connected to the Beosystem 3, but not the link speaker.
It’s specifically sound from my PC I was hoping to get through the link speaker, so I’m going to conduct another experiment. My PC has a digital audio out socket, but it’s optical not coax, so I’ve ordered a little converter to convert optical to coax. I’m wondering: if the sound is coming from a separate source, and not split-out from the HDMI, maybe that will work. I think it’s unlikely to be honest, but worth a try. I’ll add another update when I’ve tried that.
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Thanks for the advice. I’ve checked the connection settings in the BS3 and if you use HDMI as the video source, it only gives you two choices for audio – HDMI, or SPDIF. It does not give you the option of using analog for audio if you are using HDMI for video.
I found an HDMI audio splitter with a digital coaxial out on Amazon, and it was cheap enough to be worth ordering, just to try it. I’ll let you know if it works when it arrives.
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I had a feeling it would be something to do with HDMI protection, thanks. I only really want one of the four HDMI inputs to be available to listen to from the link room speaker (my PC), so I’m wondering, if I get hold of an HDMI audio extractor with a digital coax out, then connect that to the BS3 and choose that as the sound input for that particular AV input, that might work. Those extractors are available cheap so I might get one and try it as an experiment.
Thanks for the help.
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I figured this out by the way, and I now have the projector working fine connected to DVI1.
The BS3 in question used to be used with a BV4, and as a result the Display 1 setting had been set for that. When I went into the Customer Service menu (Menu, move over Options, Red, Go), then went into the Picture Adjustments menu, I found that the Framelock setting for Display 1 was set to ‘Nearest Line’ whereas the same setting for Display 2 was set top ‘Double Buffer’. I changed the Display 1 setting to ‘Double Buffer’, and that solved the problem – no more blinking!
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Ah, interesting, thanks. Reason I ask, I’ve just bought a job lot that includes 1 pair of BL3000 and 2 pairs of BV4500, I was wondering if I should switch the amplifier component from the 3000s onto the 4500s, to make a pair of BL4500s instead. Not sure it’ll be worth the bother though.
Also I’m colourblind , so the difference between yellow and green displays will be lost on me!
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Figured this out – or at least partly. For some reason, if I connect my projector to the DVI2 output instead of DVI 1, the blinking does not occur.
That’s a bit inconvenient as I have no intention of connecting a normal TV screen to DVI1 – my Beosystem 3 is intended solely for use with a projector, but at least it works.
I’m assuming the DVI1 and DVI2 outputs on the BS3 must be configured differently in some way. The manual does say that the projector should be connected to DVI1 if you’re only using a projector, but that doesn’t work for me (not with this newer projector, anyway).
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That does help, thanks, it hadn’t crossed my mind to get a custom cable.
I’m going to wait until I have replaced my old BV7 with a Beosystem 3, then I’ll start experimenting further!
What I (and probably many of us) love about B&O is the way it works together, for example when I press Play on my Beogram 9500, the speakers connected to my BV7 switch on and I hear it. I’d like the same for the BS Moment but I honestly don’t think that will be possible when I also have a Beocenter 9500 as an A. Master.
It’s not working too badly though – given that the BS Moment can be easily controlled from its own screen, all I have to do is select TP.2 as the source, then I can play from the BS Moment using its own screen, which I keep within arm’s reach.
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Yes the BV7 has the same – in the connections menu you can choose to use one of the digital coax inputs for digital audio (A1 to A4). I’ve tried all 4 and none work.
The reason I stuck with the old BV7 is that is has a dedicated Powerlink output for Cinema Centre, which I have connected to a Beolab 7.4 in the centre of the room. That takes over as the centre speaker when the BV7 is put into cinema mode.
I rarely use the BV7’s own screen and instead use the projector when watching movies or gaming, so I think I will look out for another Beosystem 3 (Mk2 or 3). One will come up on eBay, if I’m patient.
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Well remembered – I did have a 1614 but don’t have it any longer – I gave it to a friend as I no longer needed it.
I’ve been experimenting for a few days, disconnecting and reconnecting cables, and finally I solved it! The problem was with the A.Aux cable that was connecting the BC9500 to the 1611.
I had another A.Aux cable which I use along with a BL Passive to drive my BV Cona subwoofer, so I swapped those two A.Aux cables, and I no longer get the buzzing feedback whenever the display updates on my Pentas. Luckily, whatever the problem was with the particular A.Aux cable, it does not seem to cause any issues driving the BC Cona via the BL Passive.
I have found however that the digital coax audio inputs on my old BV7 don’t seem to work – I have a HDMI matrix with a coax audio splitter and I know that works, but I don’t get any digital sound going into the BV7. I am therefore not getting full surround sound with my full set of surround speakers! I’ve tried every setting but I get nothing – the digital coax inputs on my old BV7 must not be working (I’ve tried all 4).
I used to have a Beosystem 3 and wish I’d kept it now – I use a projector for gaming and movies in this room, so I might as well get rid of the BV7 and find another Beosystem 3 (Mk2 or Mk3). At least that has direct HDMI inputs (without the need for DVI cables and splitters), and a lot more sound customisation options for the speakers.
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Somehow, and I have no idea how, the Moment has stopped responding to IR commands. I have no idea why, I must have changed a setting without realising it, but that works for me so I’m not complaining!
As for the buzzing noise in my Penta’s when the display changes – I’m now 90% sure it’s the 1611 Converter that is causing this. When I used my Beosound 4 instead of Beocenter 9500 (and therefore did not need toe 1611), I never got the buzzing noise. If I select a source on my Beovision 7 and change channel or volume etc, I don’t get the buzzing noise. I only get the buzzing noise when an audio source is selected, so it’s coming through thew BC9500 and the 1611 converter.
I have my 1611 connected by both A.Aux able and Powerlink (Mk3) cable. I unplugged the Powerlink cable to test if that got rid of the buzzing, but it didn’t.
It’ll take some effort because my cables are all routed and hidden, but I’ll try and switch out some of the cables between the 9500, the 1611 and the Pentas, in case one of them has a fault. It’s also possible I suppose that my 1611 has a fault.
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I don’t believe the Moment has and Option 0. Indeed, as the Moment in NL rather than ML, it doesn’t really have ‘options’ at all.
In don’t plan to get another Beolink Converter so I think I’ll leave it as it is. It works, even if I can’t control the Moment by RC.
I diod notice something about the bussing noise in the speakers though – if I play a CD, I get a single buzz noise as the track moves on to the next track. The display in my Biolab Pentas will update to show the track number, so I’m guessing the buzz is related to the display data.
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