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I’ve never owned Beovox Penta (the passive version) but I do own a pair of Beolab Penta (the active version). Apart from the amplifier, the Beolab version also have a display in the centre which shows info such as source, volume, track number. That display is only useful if connected to a compatible B&O audio system and/or TV. Beovox Penta sell quite a bit cheaper than Beolab Penta so for you, I’d honestly recommend the Beovox passive version of these fine and very attractive speakers.
Location: Liverpool
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I would love to give this a try, although I’m a bit scared I’ll damage mine trying to upgrade it to a 5c! I might look out for another Beomaster 5 on eBay so I can experiment with a second one. I’d love to be able to stream from the likes of Spotify on my BS5, and with remote control too – brilliant.
I use my Beosound 5 in Audio Slave mode with a Beosound 9000 as the Audio Master in my setup – does the 5c support that?
Location: Liverpool
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Do you have them to a B&O TV that automatically checks for software updates periodically? This used to happen to my Beolab Penta which were connected to my Beovision 11 TV, and after a while I realised it was happening at the same time each day. I deactivated the automatic update checks on the TV, and it stopped happening.
It’s an outside possibility that it’s the same thing, but you never know. My suspicion either way would be that they are not switching themselves on – whatever is connected to them is probably doing that.
Location: Liverpool
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Thank you Carolpa, that worked. I did exactly what you said in exactly that sequence. At first the problem continued but then I realised I had forgotten to put the devices back into the Connect To (primary) and Connect To (secondary) options on the BLC settings. Once I did that, it worked.
In case anyone has a similar setup, this is what works for me:
BV11-46
- Both my Beolink Converter and Beosound Moment are added under Product Integration in the menu.
- The TV is set to Opt. 2
- All sources are set to the buttons I want to use for them, including the Beosound Moment set to A.Mem
Beosound Moment
- Set to use TV speakers in the menu
Beosound 9000
- Set to Opt. 0
Beosound 5
- Set to A.Slave mode
Beolink Converter
- Config/Settings tab – ML Enabled with the role set as V. Master. Connect To (primary) is set to BV11-46, Connect To (secondary) is set to Beolink Converter
- Config/Experience Mapped to NL tab – Radio, CD and N.Music ticked as Enabled, no other sourced ticked
- Config/IR Mapping tab – CD, Radio and A.Aux set to Beolink Converter, A.Mem set to Beosound Moment, all video sources set to BV11
Location: Liverpool
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Sorry to bump the post, but I still haven’t solved this, and it’s frustrating because it used to work fine.
I’ve tried many things now – I tried changing my BS9000 to Opt.1 instead of Opt.0, I’ve tried changing my Beolink Converter ML Role from ‘V.Master’ to ‘Source Centre’ or ‘A.Slave’ (although V.Master always worked in the past), I’ve tried disconnecting the power and reconnecting everything in various different sequences, but I’m stuck with the same problem – whenever I select an ML audio source (CD, Radio, N.Music, Aux), my Beovision 11 Powers on, shows the source in the centre of the screen, but then after a moment says ‘STOPPED’ in the top-right of the screen. If I hit the source button again on my remote, the source then plays.
It’s so frustrating that it worked fine for a long time but then suddenly this weird behaviour started happening.
Location: Liverpool
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It is my understanding that the MCL82 is only for the Beomaster 5000 or the Beocenter 7*** range. These were made before the Beolink standard that the Beolink 1000 (and all later B&O IR remotes) were built to.
I think you would need the later model MCL2a, also sold as the ‘X-tra Speaker Kit’, along with the compatible transceiver.
As far as I know the MCL cable you have already (with the 3-pin speaker plugs) should work with an MCL2a, so hopefully you’ll be able to find one, with a transceiver, cheap on eBay. There don’t appear to be any listed now but one will come up I’m sure.
Sold without an MCL cable, you should only have to pay about £20-£30 for it.
Location: Liverpool
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Oh no it’s my fault. I had forgotten about that other conversation, I know I did have them set to Line, but have at some later point forgotten that they should remain on Line and have switched them to PC. I have an appalling memory.
Location: Liverpool
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I bought another pair of Beolab 4 by the way as I looked into the cost of getting my faulty one repaired (I was advised it’s almost certainly a busted amplifier), and it was cheaper to just buy another pair.
I think I know what happened, and it’s my own fault! Ther’s a switch on the underside of Beolab 4 to switch between ‘Line’ and ‘PC’. I had mine connected to a PC, so I had selected PC. I should have checked the manual – if you have them set to ‘PC’ they don’t go into auto standby. They’d been switched on for months! Little wonder the amp stopped working in one of them.
I didn’t realise they were not going into standby as I am colourblind, so didn’t realise the LED on top was not changing colour when I powered my PC on or off.
So, if you have Beolab 4 connected to a PC, make sure that switch is not set to PC!
Location: Liverpool
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Thank you – that’s really useful. I am following the correct procedure to make a recording, but it’s not working. The previous recording that’s already on the tape remains, so I’m guessing there’s something wrong with the recording heads.
Probably not worth the cost of getting it repaired, but I’ll look into it, thanks.
Location: Liverpool
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If I were to send you both of mine, would you be prepared to fix one, and you can keep the other? If you could PM me with an approximate price for that, I’d be grateful.
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks for the advice skolesen, I might try that.
And also thanks Guy – the battery cover arrived.
I now have two Beolink 5000s, one does not seem to work at all (although it could be the battery contacts – I haven’t investigated further yet), the other one does appear to be working from the phone camera test, but I haven’t yet got my Beocenter 9500 out of storage to test it fully. My Beomaster 6500 does appear to pick up some signals from it, but not many, and not always the one that corresponds to the button pressed!
Both are in great cosmetic condition but both have loose displays which come fully out of the housing, and I know they displays will probably have dead pixels anyway. I know that the two-way communication is often faulty on these too.
Does anyone know where I can get these repaired, or at least one of them? I don’t believe Multicare repair these, but correct me if I’m wrong.
Location: Liverpool
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Ah – there appears to be a glitch in the PM thingy – if I search for user ‘Guy’, you are the fourth one down, and your name is partially hidden by the text box formatting buttons:
Because of this, I can’t click your name. Maybe you could PM me, and I can reply?
Location: Liverpool
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Thank you – I did have them in the right way after all then. It’s not working, so I’ll have to have a more detailed look at it.
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks – as long as I know it can learn new commands, It’ll definitely be useful to me, so I’ll download the configurator and get a licence for it.
Location: Liverpool
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Thanks Guy – I’ve already checked Danish Sound Parts and they don’t, but I’m sure I could find a suitable alternative. I might sas well take a look inside and see what I can find out – it’s worth a try (but I won’t be baking any components in the oven!).
Location: Liverpool
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Ah thank you – not quite the same on the BV11 menu but if I press Menu and then Sources, I noticed that Radio was disabled as a source. I had assumed that would activate the radio in my Beosound 9000 (connected via a Beolink Converter NL/ML) but it did in fact activate the DTV radio channels.
I’ve added the unused N.Radio button as the button to select that source, and set that the same in the IR mapping on the BLC, so now I now have ‘Radio’ as a source for my Beosound 9000 FM/AM tuner, and ‘N.Radio’ as a source for the DTV radio stations.
This allows me to listen to BBC Radio 6 Music without any need for using my phone and Chromecast audio, so it’s a winner! Thank you.
Location: Liverpool
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Hi Teemu. I’m no photographer I’m afraid but hopefully these will help. This repair was a while ago but from memory, I originally used contact adhesive to glue the hook back on, but it came off again – because it’s only small, there isnlt much surface for the adhesive.
So, second attempt, I made a little triangular plastic ‘buttress’ – a right-angled triangle of only about 3 or 4mm high, out of a hard plastic (I think I made it out of a broken cassette base, using a craft knife.
I glued that onto the ‘hook’ first, and then I glued the hook in place, but this time I used superglue gel, and I used quite a bit of it too, hoping that the gel would dry into a ‘blob’ that would help hold it all in place. Happily, it worked.
It depends where yours is broke – on mine, the hook broke so that there was a rough area on the lower-right side (opposite side to the hook itself), which meant I had to glue it onto the right inside edge of the round hole on the carriage, where it had broken off from. I had to allow for this when I attached my makeshift ‘buttress’, making sure the bottom edge of my buttress, and the right edge of the broken hook, formed a small right angle, which I could glue into place.
I’m afraid it’s not very clear on the photographs (the buttress is made of clear plastic so you can’t really see it), so I’ve added a little diagram:
The grey part is the carriage, and the gap is the little round hole that the hook broke away from. The blue is the hook, and the orange is the little buttress I made from a piece of hard plastic. Remember I glued the buttress onto the hook first, let that dry, then glued the hook and buttress onto the carriage.
Hope it helps.Location: Liverpool
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