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I really would like to put my Beolab 3500 into A.Aux easily, and I can’t do that with either of my Beo4 remotes, as they are earlier models (mk2 I think, with software version 4.4) and therefore don’t have L-A.Aux as an option, and can’t be sent to exclusive Link mode. My Beolab 3500 is almost exclusively used to listen to my WIIM Pro streamer, which is connected to A.Aux.
I can use my Beolink 1000 for that (Link>Shift>Radio) but my Beolink 1000 does not belong in that room, and it has other limitations when using it with a Beolab 3500.
So, would a Beoremote 1 work for this? I’ve found the manual online and it does say it can act like a Beo4, but the manual does not go into the greater details, and I cannot find a lexicon for it.
Also would a Beo5 or Beo6 work for this?
I know that a later Beo4 with the Nav button would work, but they demand a high price on eBay – you can actually bet a Beoremote for about the same price, and a Beo5 much cheaper if you’re lucky on eBay.
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Ah, there’s a couple of bits I need from Beoparts shop (now: Danish Sound Parts) anyway so I may as well add those to the order – thanks.
I know a transformer will hum of course, it was just that it was loud enough to hear in a quiet room. Only just, but you can hear it if your near it.
Edit by Dillen
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You do like a good experiment don’t you @Madskp! I have both a 1611 and a 1614, but my MCL2AV did break a little while ago. I am looking out for another one.
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I was able to try it again when the kitchen fitters downstairs had stopped for a brew and it was quiet! I would not say the sound disappears completely when I lift it up, but it does definitely lessen. While the rubber feet are still there on the underside, they are quite flat and have probably lost a lot of their original softness. I do have some 3M adhesive rubber feet so I’ll put some of those on tonight when it’s properly quiet in the house, and try it again. Thanks for the advice.
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Yes I tried that suggestion you made, but it’s the same, the Beogram does not respond. I don’t think there is a way to do this then. It’s no big deal, I just enjoy trying to figure out what’s possible!
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Actually it is back left sorry, I was looking at it from the back at the time! It still has it’s rubber feet. Right now I can’t hear the noise at all (I’m hoping it’s just magically gone away!), but I’ll listen again closely tonight when the house is quieter. We’re having some work done at the moment in the kitchen so it’s quite noisy right now.
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Ypou’re rifght – it doenslt work. I donlt yet have the adadter to connect my BG3000, but I didn connect the BG3000 to the 1614 via A.Aux link plug, then to my BS4 via Masterlink, just to test if there was any Datalink compatibility. There was not – if I pressed Phono on the Beo4 the BS4 came on (but in N.Radio, of course), but the turntable did not activate.
As for th alternarive possible MCL2AV solution you give – I did have an MCL2AV only recently but had to return it to the seller as it failed after a short while. Madskp’s diagram does have a note bottom-right though saying this solution would not work if a Beosound was used as the audio master, soi I assume Madskp means that my Beosound 4 is not an alternative to a Beoport in this case.
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The most recently posts from this thread seems to have disappeared? Anyway, in one of those missing posts one of you (can’t remember who sorry) mentioned the datalink-compatible phono stage available from Oneremote (https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69068-riaa-amplifier/). I have also found this one on Iconic AV (https://www.iconic-av.co.uk/item/1321/RIAA+Pre-Amplifier+with+Datalink+for+BeoGrams/) that has the advantage of having phono input/output as well as 7 pin DIN. It’s cheaper than the Oneremote device, but strangely there only seems to be an option to ‘Enquire’ on the page rather than ‘Buy’. I’ve sent them an enquiry to see if it is still available.
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That Oneremote preamp has given me an idea but I’d be surprised if it works. The Beosound 4 has one disappointing feature – it only has standard RCA aux input, so no Beolink/Audio Aux Link.
I do have a 1614 converter going spare though. Do you think if connected my BG3000 to the Oneremote device, then to the 1614 converter via A.Aux link cable, then to the BS4 via Masterlink, then I would be able to control my BG3000 via remote control?
Probably too much to hope for!
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Update – my BL35000 does work with A.Aux. I also have a Beolink 1000 and I was able to switch my BL3500 to A.Aux using Link>Shift>Phono.
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Thanks everyone; a lot to think about. I had no idea you could put a Beo4 in permanent link mode, but I tried (list, config, 2002), but the display did not say ‘Link On’, and it made no difference to the function. I found something in the old forum that say the Beo4 needs to be at software version 5 or later for link mode. Mine is 4.4, and is the older model with V.Tape and A.Tape rather than V.Mem and A.Mem buttons. I have another Beo4 on it’s way to me that comes with the BS4 – hopefully that will be a later one. The seller confirmed the Bs4 came with a ‘remote’ but didn’t provide a photo, but the price of the BS4 was so good, I didn’t really care.
I’ve not ruled out getting a BS5 yet. I’ve looked at the BS Moment but it’s more expensive, and would mean I would also need a NL/ML converter to connect it to the BS4, which puts the price up even further.
I’ve just ordered an ML Gateway because it was going very cheap on eBay and included an ML cable – really I just bought it for the cable. Haven’t a clue what an ML Gateway does though! Will probably just sell it (without the ML cable) on eBay.
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Thanks, that’s very useful. The BS5 is a lovely looking thing but it sounds like it would not be very integrated with my BS4. It depends how cheap I can get one, I suppose! I’ll give it some thought.
If I used WIIM Pro instead I would have to connect that into Aux In, then connect my phono stage into the Aux In on the WIIM Pro, then connect my Beogram to that. That could work though, as the WIIM Pro switches to Aux Input automatically if it detects a signal.
What I’d miss there is having a dedicated screen for digital music, which the BS5 would provide.
One annoying thing though – the Beo4 does not seem to have ‘L-A.Aux’ available as an extra button, so I would not be able to select that source using my Beo4 on my Beolab 3500. It has L-V.Aux but not L-A.Aux. What a strange omission!
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Yes, I have a Beocom 6000 but I’ve put that on eBay now as I have no use for it – I much prefer this 1500, and I didn’t need a cordless phone for my desk anyway. The 1500 also better matches the aesthetic of my mostly 80s/90s B&O kit (although I admit, the 6000 is nice to look at).
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Yes, I’ve seen that before, cool idea! I had actually looked for one of those before but they don’t come up for same very often, and they often list them on eBay at quite a high price due to rarity, I suppose.
I think mine is actually a 1500 not a 1401; I just assumed it was a 1401 but the eBay seller didn’t specify the model and it doesn’t have the model number on it. The buttons are a bit different that a 1401. This may explain why I was unable to find the location of the batteries in the 1401 user manual. That’s my excuse anyway.
I love having volume controls to hand, right there on my desk. Using them every day – so useful.
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My search for an MCL2P is over now anyway – no point, as the MCL2AV that I bought has stopped working. I’d not had it long so the eBay seller has agreed to take it back and refund it. I’ll wire my old MCL2A back up for now.
Given that the MCL2AV has gone, and given that I have an ML distributor box with sockets going spare, I think I’ll give up on the MCL plan and go for a Beolink Passive 1657 with an IR Eye. If my BC8500 ever goes the same way as the MCL2AV I’d likely replace it with something later such as a BS3000 or BS4, so having the Beolink Passive to drive my lovely little Boevox CX50s at the back of the room would be an advantage.
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Ah that is interesting. I already have 2 of those older rectangular IR receivers which came with MCL2A and MCL2AV. Of course they have bare wires rather than a DIN connection that the 1657 requires, but it’d be easy enough to fit one and I think I can see how I would wire it up on other thread you posted a link to!
I wouldn’t mind a round IR eye with eh volume control, but the eBay sellers are asking a lot for them. I could use one of my old ones and live without the volume controls for now, until a round IR eye came up at a good price.
Mind you, if I do this properly I won’t need the MCL2A or 2AV, and could sell both on eBay, which will go some way to paying for the new IR eye! I’m not too short of funds but I do like a bargain.
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Ag good – at least I have an alternative then. If I can’t get an MCL2P I’ll get a Beolink Passive and an IR Eye, and connect it to my ML Distributor. The Beolink Passive amps come up cheap on eBay sometimes, but the IR Eye demands a much higher price. I have occasionally seen them sold as a package through (a 1657 with an IR Eye) so I might look out for that.
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I have not yet been able to find an MCL2P for sale, so I was thinking of buying a Beolink Passive such as the 1657, as per your earlier suggestion in this thread @Madskp. I know that would not supply power to the MCL2AV but it would at least still work.
I think I do have an alternative though – note that I have my Beocenter 8500 connected to a 1611 converter via Audio Aux Link, then that is connected to an ML distributor box which has 3 unused sockets at present.
Could I connect a Beolink Passive such as the 1657 to that via Masterlink, or could I connect the 1657 directly to my Beocenter vas Powerlink? I know this would mean I would also need the newer IR Eye as the older rectangular type that I already have would not work, but would this alternative (made up of newer components) work?
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