[Beobuddy]

Ad I already mentioned. BL2 and BL5 have the same modules. The 500W modules differ in connection sockets

The lower and upper bass from the BL5 are the same. Both Class D as the bass from the BL1. Design wise different boards and components.

If you’re able to order a new ICE 1000W module, not the stil available 500W, then you probably luckily solved this issue. As changing the modules for the bass made difference.

[Beobuddy]

Thank you!
I will contact you by d.m.

[Beobuddy]

There are no (public) available diagrams. That makes them hard to repair. If something goes wrong during trying then it can go severe wrong due to the strong power supply driving them.

The modules aren’t manufactured and sold anymore. I don’t expect that they will make another batch off modules due to the limited specifications off these and it probably only will be to replace defective ones.

I’ve managed to fix a number of modules and am working on reverse-engineering back to drawing diagrams for future repairs. I’ve invested in a sincere amount of a money in special power supplies, differential probes, electronic loads, parts, etc. to get them fixed. But, agreed,  with original diagrams life would be much easier.

If you’re searching for a quick fix, then I would suggest that you look for a cheap BL2 and take out the module in that one.

At first glance there seems to be some resemblance but there are difference (BL7-4). I don’t see that with the BL1, other that it has also an ICE powered section for the bass. Mid and high are driven by Class-B amplifiers.

[Beobuddy]

For erasing the memory you can use a Beo4, BL1000 or MCP.
For setting de FM display setting you’ll need a MCP. Only then you’ll get the frequency displayed. But then again, if you’re just a bit off the correct frequency while tuning with a Beo4 for instance, who will notice 😉
I have several MCP’s and Beo4’s laying around, so never thought of that issue. But with a Beo4 you can check and store the sound settings.

[Beobuddy]

If the backup battery has been replaced I always perform a erasure of the memory. That set back the basic settings. After that you mostly have to set the FM display offset. But that’s easy.

[Beobuddy]

Guy has it right. The senders of the infrared light are actual led’s with the shape of a standard 3 mm led. Located in the yellow circles. The receivers have the same shape as the infrared receivers in the red circle, but located at the sides.

This system causes hardly any issues. Most of the time when the doors(and clamper) don’t slide (or moves) there is an issue with its powersupply or other cause.
When you  hold the black covers towards incoming sunlight, you can look through them. So painting them isn’t an option indeed.

[Beobuddy]

Foam for the BL8000’s aren’t manufactured or on stock anymore. So, find yourself a set at a dealer who’s willing to sell you (tricky question when they know they can’t order anymore)

[Beobuddy]

I’ve done dozens off these and the BL5’s are becoming a bit risky, to say the least.

@ Marexy. Change both 2 modules at the side of the chassis with each other. If the problem travels from the upper bass to the lower bass, then you know that it is an amplifier problem.

If the problem stays at the same driver, then the problem might be the mute section or lies in the filter section.

Btw,  tweeters are very costly nowadays.

[Beobuddy]

I have  a complete frame with ACM taken from my BV9 2 years ago. It has the black colour.

[Beobuddy]

Disconnecting the tweeter doesn’t help. A ceased tweeter is the same as disconnecting it. Measure the impedance of the both mid and tweeter. When these show an impedance of several ohms less than 10 ohm, then the amplifier is faulty.
In case of a faulty amplifer, I can fix these in combination with maintenance to prevent other often strange symptoms.

Located in The Netherlands.

[Beobuddy]

The Beolab 2 is completely different when comparing with the BL8000.

Where you easy can solve problems with the BL8000 with the available diagrams and knowledge, the BL2 is a processor based speaker where the auto protect can be triggered by different causes. Diagrams are only available on a minimal level.

[Beobuddy]

I’ve seen it yesterday.
It’s a mix of improved sound of the Beolit 20 and functionality of the Level. So mozart based with wifi, stereo pairing etc.
The looks of it is very nice.

[Beobuddy]

Leave the D1 as it is. They rarely fail and it seems that you’re able to trigger the system with your multimeter, So Tr1 works.
It’s not clear what your figures are. I guess that these 584 and 726 are mV’s? As your using the multimeter in the diode testing mode. I provides you the forward voltage from a diode. The first number 584 will probably 0.584V and the forward voltage of D1. The second 726 is probably 0.726V and the forward voltage of the internal diode of Tr1 (base-emitter). This is the result of in-circuit measuring of components. This explains why the BL8000 switches on when you put the probes over D1. The multimeter uses a small voltage (mostly around 2V) to test the forward voltage of a diode.
I would start by measuring whether there is a voltage on the base of Tr1 when powering on and off. It should be 0V (in standby) or 0.7V (forward voltage) on the base of Tr1. Resulting in the collector of Tr1 going down to ground level.
D1 is only used to protect Tr1 for negative voltages provided on pin4 on the powerlink plug.

[Beobuddy]

@Glitch: Exact something like that.

@ Geoff: I do understand the logic with the BL50, 90’s etc. As I’ve read all your blogs 😉

So, the idea was/is to convert the passive Penta’s into active versions. And as you need the same drivers for the side/back, it seems the easiest way to use the same Penta’s (which would also be active) to send the audio for eq’s compensation.
Not the easiest task, I know. I wasn’t thinking of providing the “side” penta’s the same audio signal.

 

I’ve designed (theoretic) active filters for the penta about almost 10 yrs ago. Bought several Hypex ICE power amplifiers with a separate power supply. But it never got to really building something out of that.
I tried a bit of measuring with a Minidsp Umik-1 USB microphone and REW software some time ago. Just out of curiosity. Was wondering what my set Penta’s would generate. Knowing that the room and (listening)position of the speakers influences the sound a lot, so I am just wondering what adding 2 sets of Penta’s (with probably only using the woofers and mids) would enhance the performance.

[Beobuddy]

The BL7-4 hardwires internally the left and right channel. So, in a stereo setup you need to split the cable into a dedicated left or right channel.

If you use a powerlink socket on for instance a BS3 you will notice that 2 channels will give sound on the BL7-4 on the used socket.

[Beobuddy]

The red part is used to secure both arms during transport.
The small screwdriver for setting the weight for the needle. The small rectangular stick is used to measure the weight.
You’re missing a small brush to clean the needle. It happens that these are fallen inside the cabinet somewhere.

[Beobuddy]

Same here. Founder member from start and always kept the same status.

[Beobuddy]

I’ve seen boards where IC1 was “upgraded” to a OPA2134. It a rather silly exercise as IC1 only  handles the signal for autodetect. The actual audio signal doesn’t pass IC1 through to the amplifiers.
Every dual opamp which works with symmetrical power supply will do the job.

[Beobuddy]

As far as I remember you were able to change settings by repeatedly pressing picture or sound on the BL1000.

[Beobuddy]

When a BL8000 fails to start after a while then most of the times this is caused by a failing NTC, autodetection or steering of the relais.
But as it responds to a trigger signal you can eliminate the NTC and steering for the relais.
So you have to look for the culprit in the autodetection. It happens regurlarly that IC1 fails.
Most of the failing components do not have visible damage. Just with measuring you will find out. For checking the IC a scope has a preference.

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