[9_LEE]

I’d say the Lab 3’s just about edge it – but don’t expect huge sound from a wafer thin cabinet, or a very small cabinet.  The Lab 3’s have more driver area (if you add the three up) but at the end of the day they’re still small speakers so won’t exactly rattle your teeth.

If you want big sound from a small cabinet, look at BeoLab 17’s.  Vastly underrated and very much overlooked.

Lee

[9_LEE]

As above – what MM said.  Always helps to know what the solution was in order to help future members with the same issue.

[9_LEE]

Plenty of good businesses which rode on the back of B&O being a successful company have fallen by the wayside – mine included.

Lintronic are/were an excellent company, but technological times change – and when manufacturers build in solutions, or there’s no need for what you provide as a company, the inevitable happens.

I wish everyone at Lintronic well, thank them for some brilliant products, and hope the owners and staff stay on the BeoWorld Forums to help people in the future. 🙂

[9_LEE]

‘Art’ NFT’s – a bubble which has only half inflated and hasn’t even got the energy to burst itself…

Please don’t confuse these with ‘real case’ NFT’s which will come when we fully adopt Blockchain technology.

Probably a bit deep, but to me this is all rubbish to potentially show off in the Metaverse (which I can’t see being a game-changer) and it’ll all be faked and copied anyway, making these ‘official’ NFT’s an expensive mistake.

Still… B&O are trying to be hip, which is at least an effort. 🙂

[9_LEE]

Friday nights have always been quiet for the Prize Draw. It’s the start of the weekend and the end of the month…

I’m sure we’ll have a better turnout for the Christmas Draw 🙂

[9_LEE]

Just for the record, the video engines fail due to overheating issues which degrades them until they fail.  The new ‘improved’ replacement video engine just has a heat sink attached to it to help with cooling.

If you want to prolong the life of your Gen1 Avant remove the rear covers to let it breathe and cool – especially if it’s on a wall or has boxes on the rear which only add to the heat.

Lee

[9_LEE]

Have you double checked your powerlink cable, or checked that whatever you have it plugged into is set up for it – or has working powerlink sockets?

I only ask as in 20+ years of dealing in B&O I have to say that the BeoLab 2 ranks as one of the most reliable and trouble free pieces of B&O I have ever dealt in…

Lee

[9_LEE]

Guy wrote:

Yes that should work. The MCL2P would take both L and R rear signals from the TV and send to the respective speakers. I think you’ll need a Powerlink Mk2 cable between TV and MCL2P in order to get power on/off and muting. I don’t think you’ll find BeoVox3000 in the BV7’s speaker menu, so you’ll have to experiment with other speaker choices to get the best sound, at an appropriate level.

I agree with this. Use a Mk2 cable, and I’d probably choose BeoLab 2500 or BeoLab 4000 as the rears which will be a similar equivalent in Active. 🙂

[9_LEE]

Hello Alain,

You need to use two-step authentication to log in to Google, otherwise it just will not let you log in.  Then, you will need to update the software – then (in my experience) reset the TV to default and log in again.  After that, leave the TV for a day or two to ‘stabilise’

The BV14 is a lovely TV, but… as with all B&O products of the era, it’s all about software.

Lee

[9_LEE]

Hopefully not…  *cough*

[9_LEE]

The white is a painted finish and doesn’t go sticky.  It also looks really nice, but white seems to be going out of fashion these days.

It’s just the black and the grey which suffer from the stickiness (which cannot be remedied, believe me). All other colours are fine as they’re painted as opposed to the soft-touch finish which breaks down…

Steve is your man for cables on here!

[9_LEE]

And here’s another image… This time a BeoLab 20 Mk2

[Author]

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