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Hi,
There are pages where the production end date is incorrect or not listed eventhough the product is phased out long time ago (Beolab 3, Beolab 17, Beoplay S8 ect.). Other pages are only with a picture but no description (Beolab 17, Beosound 6 ect.). There are also several pages in the “Classic era” where there are a fine description but no picture (Beomaster 3000 Type 293x, Beocenter 2500 ect.).
I see Beocentral.com as a very good Wiki page and are using it from time to time – so therefor I also spot where details or informations could be beneficial to have.
@AdamS, it seems like you know the man who drives the page, you may give him credit for what the site already contain – great work./Pindsen
I saw elsewhere on the Internet that one could also extract the month from the serial – anybody knows how to decode that?
If something is broken of the eject actuator I cannot see what that should be. I though discovered that the hinge in the eject side was touching the actuator arm slightly underneath where they meet, I removed a little plastic to remove that friction. On the motor side I disassembled the motor/gear unit af cleaned it from old grease and lubricated with thin oil. This has made the lid open by it self now but I can hear that the motor are working harder in the start but it gets easier for it when the lid is half way up and until it is fully open.
/Pindsen
No, gears are fine. The issue is in the other side where the Eject button is. There are some kind of small obstacle that is just enough for the motor not being able to lift the lid. If the lid to assisted slightly it moves all the way up.
When the lid part is removed there are no problem for the hinge in the motor side to move all the way up but the hinge in the eject side can only move up by hand when the eject button is back in rest position.
When the eject button is pressed it is not released correct and there it lockes the lid when there are a little force needed – are there anything to adjust (the service manual does not mention anything)?
/Pindsen
Thank you, I like the Playmaker option. Then it requires a RJ45<->7-pin DIN (male) cable and a 7-pin DIN splitter (female to 2xmale) – correct?
/Pindsen
Yes, both side of the lens and also the mirror down in the “channel”. It is a new laser I need.
I have tried that without no luck.
What does T/S mean?
/Pindsen
I will try to compare and return with my perspective as I have both.
/Pindsen
Some inspiration taken from Beolit 20.
Hi,
For the Radicator I tried with a 50mA and it seems to give an okay light.
The bulb itself is very small but Ø3,2x8mm seems like a good choice.
If anybody knows the correct specifications I would like to know./Pindsen
Hi,
Could you explain what this “Code” message tells.
I have had several BM3500/4500 with faulty backup battery but they still work they just don’t remember the settings after power has been off.
Some BM3500/4500 have trouble with the Mute relay on Speaker 1, do you have the same problem when you connect your speakers to Speaker output 2?
Can you operate the Beomaster via the front touch buttons?/Pindsen
Hi,
Does the moving to the far upper happens every time the CD stops? If so I would assume it is okay since the voltage to the lense moving mechanisme might be shut off every time the CD does not succecfully starts up (recognize the CD). If you are sure about the correct polarity of C2103 then I would try the adjustment as Spassmaker suggest.
/Pindsen
Hi again,
It turned out that the BC8000 did not have a “TR9” issue – my issue was also a little different. It could Play, REW and stop by command but when selecting FF it stayed in FF eventhough pushing Stop. Measuring around on board 4 showed correct electrical signals. It turned out that the FF solenoide was half stuck staying in outer position. Lubricating the rod inside solved the issue.
Finally everything works 🙂/Pindsen
Hi,
I took the board 5 apart and could see that 5TR1 is a BD534 so there are a type mistake in the service manual. 1C53 is not shorted as is was replaced previously and still measure ok. It turned out that it was the flatcable from board 4 (section B4) to board 1 that had bad connection in the board 4 socket. It was very difficult to see, it was only a random pick from my side to lift it up and clean all flatcables and when lifting this flatcable it was clear that it could not have had any connection in the socket. The reason for cleaning the flatacbles are because some of those for board 4 have grease in them from the front lid opening mechanisme. Ensuring that all flatcables have proper connection the tape deck now works again.
Now next fault behaves as this issue:
https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/31556.aspx
Maybe I also “just” have a TR9 issue./Pindsen
Hi,
Okay thank you, for the second question then yes I mean when it has been unplugged from mains. I was just wondering if a backup battery had been drain, but seems like it is a “feature” 🙂
Regards to the ability to show the time remaining of a track, I had that on my old Sony stereo and for some reason I liked it – it’s a pitty we cannot request new features to be added for the BS9000 – we will just have to live with where B&O ended despite the product remains in use for many years to come./Pindsen
Okay, I thought so but it could be that they had a “factory setting”.
/Pindsen
Thank you, that makes it clear. It is impressive how much effort he put into his restoration projects 🙂
/Pindsen
Hi,
Okay thanx. They are not easy to get access to in general.
/PindsenHi Guy,
Thank you that works better 🙂
I by intuition had an idea that since the SHIFT command is “hidden” in the List menu it needed to be “activated” with a push on the GO button but that is apprently not the case./Pindsen
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