[matador]

Mikaeln1 wrote:

[…] goto Bunnings…

Let me invite you “poor Australian” to our European “Leroy Merlin” in exchange to you inviting me to Bunnings!

Nice work and happy to have helped…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Please guys having “doubts”…

Read the thread carefully, there are of course scale errors; x10, x1000, x100, whatever…

Just think!

Plenty of people have sorted it out and successfully made them better than me.

This is an enthusiast forum, not an after sales hotline.

With all due respect.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I’m with the sombrero guy, If you want to Frankenstein your deck, better sell it for parts to another B&O enthusiasts a buy a deck with “usuAT” cartridges…

If you like the soul of your turntable, yes it costs a little but…

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I’ve tried to catch it with an old camera (CCD without IR filter while playing the last track of a CD but nothing visible. The luminous clamper, doesn’t help.

If you have and old camera and your Beosound is torn appart maybe you could try without the ring light on.

– Time after –

I’ve tried everything from old CCD Camera to iPhone front cam etc… On a Beosound 2300 where the lense is more exposed and I’m unable to see anything. Sorry.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

matador wrote:

Question Does the service manual remark ‘in TestMode #65 the light pen can be seen’ mean that I should be able to see the light of the laser? Because I don’t see any light coming from the laser in TestMode #65. If I should, then the laser is defect and needs replacement, right?

My Beosound 9000 IR has stopped working so I can’t do any Test mode to check it out but the visible laser must be a light red glint. At least it’s the only thing I’ve ever seen.

It’s also possible that by Light pen, they mean “the eye”. I can’t imagine a test mode firing the laser without any danger for the operator.

I remember a thread on BW2 that talks about another way to repair a faulty laser by (from memory) reflowing something on the main board. But I’m unable to find it.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

KolfMAKER wrote:

Thnx @Matador ! You are referring to the “orange part in the picture”. Do you mean the orange PCB and its flatcable?

Yes.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

matador wrote:

I remember a thread on BW2 that talks about another way to repair a faulty laser by (from memory) reflowing something on the main board. But I’m unable to find it.

This is the thread I was referring to. Unfortunately for MK3 but may help someone one day…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Can’t tell about the focus error. Focus error is usually because of a dirty lens. It may worth double checking the cleaning and the mounting of the part maybe.

The maser for MK2 is from memory CDM 12.05 but you often just need to change the eye part (orange part in the picture). there is a reference number printed on the triangle part near the connector – EF-20 – you should go after the same part.

Member Marexy who has bought tons of them on eBay told us it was kind of a lottery: some do work other don’t. I’ve experienced myself some that work but with a high pitched noise disturbing at low listening levels. Maybe a reputable source would work better.

Good luck.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

1. No, I think you’ve done them all.
2. For MK1 I don’t know. I think I remember the laser was specific or not anymore available, but I may be wrong. Lot of topics about that on BW2 I think. I would try a deep clean of the lens: lens up and down and mirror.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Typical of a faulty laser…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

YannChris wrote:

I remember something happened with 3rd party codes assigned on hardkeys in one of the last versions of the config-tool or firmware update.

Interesting. That worth a try updating the config with an old CT.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Yes it is a two part construction: a hard plastic part with a rubber “sock”.

If the rubber sock only is torn, you can replace it with a flat rubber ring (plumbing).

If the hard plastic part is broker yes it can be more difficult. Then I need to see how complicated would be to design the mesh, given one could add the electric contacts. Maybe not that easy.

If your solution did work (the tape) that would not be difficult to design a sticker and print it in thick vinyl. It happens I do have a plotter for that kind of thing and can try this for you.

In the meantime you can cut a piece of vinyl, apply it on the base, rub it with your finger and then follow the crease with the tip of an X-acto. That would give you a perfect shaped base.

Hope this helps.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Another thing I forgot to mention:

I still have a Beo6 in use. It has a defective touch panel but it is programmed to work with hard keys only, like a Beo4. It allows me to start a Beocenter 6, Radio, Airplay and Apple TV box with built in Apple remote codes.

What happens is that the remote seems to hold the charge as usual as long as I use B&O controls but as soon as I use a third party command the remote immediately reboot and ask for his charger. I just need to but the remote on the cradle and then the remote works again as before.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

YannChris wrote:

Did you keep the original battery which came with the remotes? For comparison of the labels with the replacement ones sold on the Internet?

Yes I did.

This one is one Someone bought for me to repair his remote. It is a whbw but despite the correct label, battery is full size AA son it won’t fit.

That one is the original battery stripped of is thermo sleeve. It may have had a label but I can’t find it.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

YannChris wrote:

Hi Matador, After reading the 2 other threads, I placed an order on this site mentioned by Tignum…

Hi Yann,

I was to lazy to wait for 4 weeks so I’m happy you did it!
Let us know. To make my part I think I will try the Electropapa one, let’s be optimistic…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Do you think it could be 3Dprinted and you could do the electronic part?
If so, I could try to model the part.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Tignum wrote:

Googling the EAN code on the box resulted in this site: https://www.batteries4pro.com/en/multimedia/remote-control/3,19049-24v-12ah-nimh-battery-for-remote-control-bang-olufsen-beo5-4894128166993.html. They use a very similar image. Quite a bit cheaper. Worth a try? Regards, Johan

Tignum, the battary that happened to be bad, did it look like the one that was good (green and black sticker)?

Because there is indeed a lot of them around and specially on Amazon that happened to be more convenient for ordering than 123accu.nl for me (language…).

What I try to know is if we can trust the package a little bit or not at all.

Thank you…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

MVee wrote:

(for instance matador, great work!), but I also see websites of semi commercial suppliers that there are more esthetic versions thinkable.

Sorry to say, but you’re really hurting me.

Clamps or any BL 8000 third party solution looks bulgy, fat and in any way are expensive.

I would pompously say that people is SELLING my FREE clamps over the internet only because I’m dumb and those things are over me (not as bitter as I look).

I’m kind of proud someone goes ahead and made the 6000 clamps.

Now, be smart, think, and get a gold membership instead…

In the end you’ll win more than cheap BL18 look alike.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you Johan (and xavieritzmann for pointing me his post…).

I’va asked you on the other topic before coming here so dont bother answering.

Thank you, I will report, hope this will revive my Beo6i Finger crossed.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Johan,

I can’t help, sorry for that.

But can you give me your source for a a trustable battery. All My Beo6 have battery problems and I’m unable to get any of them working.

Thank you.

Location: Paris France

[Author]

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