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Sounds like a great test procedure especially the focus on however the connection between the ATV and the Siri remote will be lost after some time as this is s dealbreaker for the relevance of this function.
When you mention that you have to turn off the TV manually can this be done with the remote app on the iphone if the siri remote is placed stationary?
True, thought about this one as well. Not exactly sure if I remember correctly but couldn’t you just use a 1611 converter for using a turntable in a ML setup (Phono / N.Radio source)?Not as far as I know. In all my testing with the 1611 converter it was not possible to control a Beocord (I have never tested with a Beogram, but will try that soon) directly connected to the 1611For good measure I just did a test with a Beogram 2000 connected to the AAL connector on a 1611 converter, and a Masterlink cable to a Beolab 3500.As expected the Beogram did not react to any audio commands sent to the Beolab 3500.Thanks for the update. I added your picture to the first post
One use case for both DL and ML could be to actually control a Beogram from a Masterlink only product (BS Ouverture, BC2, BS4, BS5 and Beovisions with ML). Would probably need the use of some alternative source commands to make this work,
A trivial correction, but BS Ouverture does have datalink – you were probably thinking of BS3000/3200 which are ML-only. ? Following the thread with interest …
yes you are right. I am just confusing myself
CD and PHONO also seems identical, but I haven’t pushed the investigation enough to confirm that.
They are identical enough that the CD connector on a MCL2AV can control a Beogram
My take on it is mentioned here https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/19/#post-20377
My guess is that the Datalink for Beocord, Beogram etc. Only has 2 device types, and in beomasters with more sockets extra outputs from the Microcomputer is used for these sockets
True, thought about this one as well. Not exactly sure if I remember correctly but couldn’t you just use a 1611 converter for using a turntable in a ML setup (Phono / N.Radio source)?Not as far as I know. In all my testing with the 1611 converter it was not possible to control a Beocord (I have never tested with a Beogram, but will try that soon) directly connected to the 1611, only with a Beomaster, or a MCL2AV. As far as I understand B&O’s termonologi for datalink, there is Audio Link for connection between Beomaster and Beocord/Beogram/CD, and Audio Aux Link for connection between Audio Masters and Video products + the 1611 and 1614 convertersI have now edited the first post with updated info.
@Guy can you confirm if the Apple TV setup scree still loks like the screenshot in the post? And please let me know if I forgot to add something to the first post
First of all very interesting project even though it might not become more than what it is now.
Some use cases for a light version from the top of my head:
- as an interface to activate a Beolab 2000/3500 or Beolink Active when sound is detected from analog audio input (Airport Express, Chromecast audio etc.) That said this already exist as a product from Almando.
- As an interface for controlling and relaying sound from a Beogram/Beogram CD/Beocord to an airplay/chromecast device
Probably better splitting it up in a dedicated DL and a dedicated ML version. Both at the same time isn’t necessary anyway.
One use case for both DL and ML could be to actually control a Beogram from a Masterlink only product (BS Ouverture, BC2, BS4, BS5 and Beovisions with ML). Would probably need the use of some alternative source commands to make this work,
Unfortunately I cannot be sure about the earlier remote firmware. To be honest I didn’t expect it to update so quickly hence am not sure when it did! When you check your parents’, perhaps check the remote FW first – maybe it hasn’t updated because it hasn’t been connected/used in their setup.
Fair enough. I also guess that most will eventually end on the latest firmware if they are being used. But I will check it on my parents setup.
I forgot to mention yesterday that the siri remote Mute button also works to mute the TV by IR. (Older siri remotes did not have a mute button).
Great info. I will also put that in the first post.
No excuses required! I bought another Beolink Converter 1611 this week on a whim, because it was cheap!
Always useful to have some of these. But I guess you can still not compete with my mountain of converters https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/19/#post-20974 🙂
I sold the white circle remote on eBay and replaced it with the more useful ‘non-white circle’ version. However, I found this useful site that confirms the latest release as 0x0118: https://appledb.dev/device/ATVRemote1,2.html It may be worth copying their naming convention, as they call the white circle version ‘Siri Remote (1st generation, Rev A)’. The site also shows that the non-white-circle remote is still at FW 0x0257. All remotes are shown here: https://appledb.dev/device-selection/Remote.html
Ok I wasn’t expecting the firmwares on these older ones to have had updates, but good to know.
I will look into their naming convention and maybe also use the Axxxx numbers to avoid any misunderstandings.
I just connected my older 1st gen (no white circle) siri remote to the new 3rd gen Apple TV 4K. It works fine including IR volume control of the TV. However, when I then connect the 3rd gen siri remote back to the 3rd gen Apple TV, the 1st gen siri remote stops controlling volume, even when the Apple TV is turned off and the Beovision playing normal off-air TV. I worked out that you need to get the 3rd gen Apple TV to ‘forget’ the 1st gen remote. I re-connected the 1st gen remote to my 3rd gen Apple TV, and then put the remote in the garage where is was out of range. I then used my iPhone to control the Apple TV, went to the ‘remote’ option and there was an option to ‘forget’ the 1st gen siri remote. I then re-connected the 3rd gen siri remote. Bringing the 1st gen siri remote back into the room, it would control B&O TV volume again without being connected to the Apple TV. A bit confusing but I hope this makes sense!
Ok a little odd behaviour, but might also be a combination that will seldom be used.
I have been working on a non working CD and tape player in a Beocenter 9300 and have now finished it with both sources working again. It has been a dream for me for many years to get one of these Beocenter systems, and here it is all lighted up and ready to play all of it’s sources 🙂
The CD player go a new laser as described in this thread
https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-9300-laser-replacement/#post-24961
The casette section needed 3 new belts.
This picture shows one of the old belts in the mechanism, and you can almost see that it has to much lenght and bends away from the straight line it should have.
Also for comparison here the old belt and the new put on top of each otherIt’s not without reason that new belts make a difference. One of the smaller ones was also cracked and perished.
Okay so today (prompted by Maskp’s posts above and to satisfy my curiosity) I purchased an Apple TV 4K (3rd Generation) with Wifi and Ethernet (the A2843 model) to use with my ageing BV10-32.
Nice 🙂 And great to get some extra testing 🙂
So it would appear that B&O have re-introduced the B&O IR codes to the latest 3rd generation siri remote. I did a quick check of the remote’s firmware version – it was initially 0x21 but later updated automatically to 0x33 – both worked fine for volume control.
Can you confirm whether it’s only volume control or also the TV command that works with both firmware versions?
So many thanks to madskp for spotting the return of this useful functionality and giving me an excuse to buy myself an early birthday present!
If you need other excuses to buy stuff let me know and I’ll try to make a thread about it 😉
I hope this is useful – @madskp it will be interesting to hear whether your parents’ siri remote is the same version with USB-C charging, and also how well it works with the much more modern Beoplay V1!!
Very usefull, and I will post back when I have tested my parents setup, and confirmed wheether it’s the 2nd or 3rd gen remote they have.
On another note are you able to check if the 1st gen remote with the white cirkle still has the same firmware version as in the old post 0x0118? I have checked on mine without the white cirkle and it is still the same.
I will try to make an update of the first post with your observations, and also update the version naming of the Siri remotes.
If sound, operation and backlight of the panel are OK, then a BV10-32 has almost always a defective Pcb. 15 MEMC (Part 8005458) and not a defective Panel. This module is responsible for the image feed to the panel.
Ok, sounds like good. What would this mean in terms of reparability? I’m ignorant in that matter but I suppose any TV has a module that is responsible for the image feed to the panel. So would it be possible to replace the electronic from there? Dont know if I’m clear…
Looking at the servicemanual it seems like replacing this part is a matter of unscrewing the back panel of the tv, disconnect three cables, unscrew 6 screws and replace the PCB with another and put it all back together.
Without research my guess would be that getting the new part could be the hard part.
Of course the function of the backlight has to be confirmed before getting into this
The white gear wheel is just snapped on the axle. Either pull it or use a small needle to open the snap…
Succes. It just needed the right amount of force to come of. Thanks for the tip. Always great to know beforehand if use of force is a good idea or gonna break think.
Installation of the new laser module vent smooth and now the CD part of the BC9300 is running smooth again ?
Thanks to everyone for inputs
Next up is changing belts in the casette deck
One quick question: When you say 3rd Gen siri remote, do you mean the very latest version with the USB-C charging port (rather than the second generation with the lightning port?) Wiki says they are identical other than the charging port, but as we know there may be hidden SW changes! See wiki here: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Siri_Remote (Looking at that wiki naming convention – we may need to rename the ‘2.gen’ siri remote in your picture as Gen 1.1 . They call the new shape (with Lightning) siri remote Gen 2)
Thanks for your input
Did not notice what connector type was on it, but will have to look at it next time I’am there, so it might as well be a 2. gen then. Also I will have to check the SW version.
I will dive into that naming convention and update the first post accordingly.
And use ESD-protection! These things are highly sensitive to static electricity. Many owners experience that new lasers don’t work, – and while it is correct that many asian “counterfeits” won’t work, or only work for a few hours, many lasers are damaged by static electricity, – either during shipping, if shipped without shorting clamp and/or ESD-shielding or by handling without taking proper ESD-precautions. I have seen many of both cases. Martin
Hi Martin and thanks for the warning. I have a grounded antistatic mat and wristband ready so I hopefully won’t fry the new module in the proces
Hi: Watch this video
Go to 5:45 mark. DerekHi and thanks for the video link. It seems though that on the unit he is working on in the video he is removing a plastic bracket which gives acces to the other guide rail. But on the on from the BC9300 that both the guide rail and the overhanging “bracket” is part of cast metal, so there is no way to get the laser module up in that side of the mechanism.
As I see it the only way is to remove the white gear, but I am very open to other suggestions
Yesterday I was visiting my parents, and short before I had to leave I helped them force quit an app on their Apple TV 4K (3rd gen). They have never used the Siri remote as the control the ATV via PUC from their Beoplay V1. But in order to force quit the app I had to use the Siri remote.
First thing that happened when I touched the home button on the Siri remote was that the Beoplay V1 switched to source TV (their apple TV is on V.MEM). I tried again a couple of times and the same thing happened. When I covered the IR eye on the Siri remote this did not happen, so it seems that the IR control with B&O remote codes are back in the 3rd gen Siri remote.
Unfortunately I was in a hurry to get home, so didn’t have time to do more tests. I will do more testing the next time I visit them and in the meantime I hope that other members are able to use this. My guess is that the functionality is much the same as in the 1st gen siri remote as described in the first post in this thread and in the old post.
However, this is only so, if the ‘3 black boxes’/the Beolink Passives have a SW 1.5 or higher. Please see Guy’s post in this thread: #14907
The solution with the 1611 converter should still work even if the Beolink Passives are SW 1.3 with the only exception being that the A.AUX command will not work.
All other audio and/or video commands listed on the diagram in Guy’s post in this thread should activate the Audio Aux Link port on the 1611 converter for Audio or video sound respectivly.
If you want to dig into it using an MCU I can recommend starting here. It supports IR and datalink so should be usable for PL data as well I guess. https://github.com/Arduino-IRremote/Arduino-IRremote/blob/master/src/ir_BangOlufsen.hpp#L4 In the end you don’t have to understand or reverse engineer the data protocol at all. Just record and replay what comes out of the W1 PL data pin. So any software that can record and send raw IR data will work. For the sending part just make sure to switch of any carrier frequency.
Thank you, I will try to dive in to that when I have some time on my hands. Always great to have a starting point to learn from.
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Also for comparison here the old belt and the new put on top of each other