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In the old BeoMusic App the BV 10 is displayed as an icon. In the new app this functionality seems to be no longer active, as I, as well, get only the BLC on display. I have not set up my BLGW properly for all my rooms, yet. However, for those I did, I get e. g. the BS 9000 icon in the respective room, either in the BeoLink 2 or in the BeoLiving app. So I guess, it is likely to get the BV 10 icon as well in both of them. Kind regards, Rolf
Thanks Rolf – that’s useful to know and as I suspected.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:
A quick update …
I now have an NL/ML converter, so I today connected my round ‘Timer version’ IR sensor and it controlled the converter perfectly, hence I have proved that there is nothing wrong with my IR sensor or RJ45 wiring. I tried the IR sensor again connected to the Essence and it still didn’t work, despite yesterday’s Essence SW update.
It might be time to delve inside the Essence as @madskp suggested a couple of posts ago. I have limited time at present and need to prepare my motorbike for its MOT tomorrow, so I will report back here when I have news.
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What extra pins are we talking about?
Annotated on the attached photo:
Pink carries power for the MCL system – 7V dc
White carries data – allowing the BL3500 to control the BC2500.
You could use a multimeter to check continuity according to the wiring diagram that I linked earlier. (Eg pink should go to Pin 2 of the MCL plug, and White to pin 6). You could also open up the plugs to check that the correct colours are soldered to the correct pins at both ends.
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Like I said earlier, when pressing different buttons on the remote control, the red text on the display of the BeoLab 3500 gets brighter for a short period of time, but no input is working (for example: I can’t change the volume on the BeoLab 3500 even though the display gets brighter red when pressing the volume button on the remote control).
So did you try disconnecting the MCL cable from the BL3500 and then pressing LINK 2 STORE on the remote? I am wondering if an incorrectly wired MCL cable (see below) causes the BL3500 to suppress IR reception.
The cable was cut into two pieces when I got it, so I had to solder the cables together. I’m not sure that left is left and right is right. But then I wonder, how can the two systems talk to each other if the cable is not connected in a correct way? Because when pressing buttons on the BeoLab 3500, the BeoSystem 2500 responds, but there is no sound coming from the BeoLab.
Whilst swapping L and R speaker channels would not be a problem, it’s important that the extra pins on the speaker connections are going to the correct L or R socket on the MCL2P – one carries power, the other data. It is possible that getting these incorrect will cause the BC2500 to respond in some way but cause problems elsewhere.
EDIT: Correct MCL2 cable wiring is shown here (second diagram) – colour coding may be different but you may wish to check yours with a multimeter: https://beoworld.org/wiring-diagrams/
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Does the BL3500 respond to any IR commands if the only connection to it is its mains/power cable? Eg: LINK 2 STORE
Are you 100% sure that the Left/Right cables were connected to the correct speaker sockets on the MCL2P? (I can see that one cable has ‘Left’ printed on it, but no harm in double checking!)
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I have one question that isn’t covered in the NL/ML Installation Guide (version 1.4). Half way down the settings page there are ‘App Settings’. I have set the ‘Icon Shown in Apps’ to Beovision 10 as you can see below: (the other icon options are Beovisions 9, 8, 7 and 3) But I am unclear as to where to expect to see that BeoVision 10 icon. All I get when using the B&O app to control the TV (via Beolink Converter) is a picture of the Beolink Converter, as you can see below:
I have noticed this setting, but did not pay much attention to it for my test use of the converter. I think mine is set to Beovision 10, and in the App only the BLC NL/ML is shown as you have also noticed. Maybe more extensive users of the BLC NL/ML have more knowledge about this functionality.
Thanks for that confirmation. I had a look through the Beolink Handbook v1.9 and ‘icons’ are mentioned with regard to the NL/ML converter (at the top of page 42). I think the setting refers to the simple icons (rather than photos) that were displayed within the old (?) BeoMusic App when using Beolink Multiroom. Perhaps the same icons are in the Beolink Gateway’s Beolink 2 app that was mentioned by Gregg above.
Anyway it’s not important. Overall I am very impressed with the NL/ML Converter so far and look forward to experimenting further with some of my older equipment!
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I set up my Essence Mk2 for the first time for a few weeks today, and noticed that another software update was available – namely 2.6.56379.258833281
Details are shown here (and unusually for the site it shows the date of release as 30 Sep 24): https://update.bang-olufsen.com/products/58ba6c9e15524870a403957cdfbee6ab#version-2.6.56379.258833281
When I have time I will see if the update makes any difference to my IR reception problems.
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I recently got hold of a NL/ML Converter and have been having a play.
Currently it’s connected as an Audiomaster between my BV10-32 and Essence Mk2 (There are no other ML or NL devices attached, and no speakers or IR sensors connected to Essence). It seems to work well and I have Beo4 control of the Essence (through the TV) and limited B&O app control of the TV – quite impressed that I can also control the TV volume using my phone.
I have one question that isn’t covered in the NL/ML Installation Guide (version 1.4). Half way down the settings page there are ‘App Settings’. I have set the ‘Icon Shown in Apps’ to Beovision 10 as you can see below: (the other icon options are Beovisions 9, 8, 7 and 3)
But I am unclear as to where to expect to see that BeoVision 10 icon. All I get when using the B&O app to control the TV (via Beolink Converter) is a picture of the Beolink Converter, as you can see below:
Am I doing something wrong, or is this a bug in the B&O app?
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so only room one is now individual from the others
I think that this is the best that you can hope for with only two ‘Passives’. Two amplifiers = two volume levels.
There are ways to separate out the rooms so that each has a discrete volume, but you would need to add either extra Passives, or Beolab (active) speakers. As madskp has already said, a good solution would be to replace the entire system with one that is ML (rather than ML/MCL) based. To do so, you would simply need a Passive in each room, each controlled by one of the newer round IR sensors, plus lots of ML cable (or equivalent).
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In your diagram, one thing that really doesn’t make sense is that the Beolink Passive 1655 appears to have both a masterlink connection (black wire) and a powerlink connection (orange wire). For the passive, both of these are ‘inputs’ and only one should be connected. Also, in your diagram the orange wire seems to comes from the box below, which I assume is an MCL2E (designed to extend the MCL system). However, the orange connection from the MCL2E would be an MCL cable, rather than powerlink.
I would try disconnecting the Powerlink connection from the Beolink Passive 1655 and see how the system behaves.
If it then works, what you would have is effectively two MCL systems, each with its own ‘independent volume control. (The Beolink Passive 1655 would be acting as a second ML/MCL converter)
EDIT: I have incorporated your diagram into my post to avoid having to click to open:
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This from the service manual:
And an old post here talks about stand cable colours BUT it actually refers to the older round (DIN) stand connector – B&O may have kept the same colours scheme.
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If you just want to replace the aluminium disc then I think you should be able to do so without disturbing any of the wiring. Have you tried removing the moving bracket parts at the top of the stand (allen key required) and then simply lifting the disc up over the pole. The cables should just tuck into the cable gap in the pole while you do this.
Failing this, you can go under the stand base and unbolt the vertical pole, then feed the cable down through the pole as you remove it – again no requirement for any wiring to be disturbed. I am not sure about the 10-40, but many B&O motorised TV stands also have a DIN connector within the pole for easy disconnection.
This may help: (You should be able to remove parts 9515 and then 9514 quite easily)
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Hi John and welcome to Beoworld!
Have a look at the following compatibility table so you can work out compatibility between the various handsets and bases:
Assuming that you are using a BeoLine US with your BeoCom 1s, you should already be able to connect up to 8 handsets. Perhaps you have other older/unused phones registered to the base, in which case you should delete them to release space for others.
If you do have the BeoLine US, then you should be able to connect a BeoCom 2 (US) with the type numbers listed above.
With regard to ‘refurbishment’ of your existing BeoComs, there is little that you can do other than fitting new batteries – this often solves problems with the phone or display and would be my approach in the first instance.
Ref speakerphone, I am not aware of any easy options, although some of the older ‘cabled’ BeoComs have built in speakerphone – BeoCom 2000 for instance. You’d have to be careful to get one compatible with the US phone network.
I hope this helps – come back and ask if you have further questions.
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Looking for Option to delete old Handsets in INT Menue. Thanks
Go to ‘Setup Menu’, then ‘Advanced Menu’, then ‘Base …’, then ‘Remove the handset’ then chose the one(s) that you wish to remove.
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Does SHIFT have to display on the screen throughout the full 90258 code?
No it doesn’t. (I just checked to enter Test Mode on my old Beosound 1)
I wasn’t sure if you have the service manual, but here’s what it says – worth following to the letter if you haven’t already – especially the note about A.Opt 1:
You could also try pressing GO when SHIFT is displayed on the screen, and then press 9 0 2 5 8. This works for me also with BS1.
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Every time I press SHIFT + 9, it goes out of the shift mode to CD. I cannot input the full 90258 code in SHIFT mode.
I can’t help with the other BS9000 questions but have experimented a bit with the Beo4 and SHIFT. Try cycling through the LIST functions prior to trying to enter Test Mode, so that SHIFT is freshly displayed on the Beo4 screen, then press 9. Then 0 2 5 8. From my experiments, the only ‘novel’ IR code is SHIFT 9, and the following number presses are ‘normal’ IR numerics.
EDIT: And of course have the system at stand-by before trying to enter Test Mode.
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Morning all! I am quite busy with other stuff at the moment but trying to follow this thread – I don;t have an NL.ML converter so I can’t really help with the overall aim.
However, I have noticed that one of the problems is the PL output (trigger) of MCL2AV. I did notice the following paragraphs in the ‘extra active speaker kit’ (MCL2AV) setup manual – I just wondered if the last little bit about holding the sensor timer button and pressing AV has any effect on what you are trying to achieve? Possibly not, but worth a try?
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I am assuming that I will have to also have to disassemble the large green circuit board covering most of the back panel to access the SFR1.
I would assume so. Have a look at this excellent thread from matador – your will have to click on the photos attached to each post. I think that you can see the hole through which SFR1 is accessed in IMG_2798.
I am not sure what tools to use for adjustment but avoid distorting figures by grounding through your body – don’t hold metal screwdriver directly.
Upper and lower door runners can be cleaned with something like window cleaner sprayed onto qtip, then lubricate very lightly with silicon spray lubricant (again via qtip).
BUT, I agree with @billbriscoe that incorrect/old belts are more likely to cause problems for both door and tape speed.
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Willkommen bei Beoworld!
Maybe have a look here: https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69094-digital-radio-solutions-for-bo/
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Hi and welcome to Beoworld!
Firstly, do you have the service manual? This is available on this site to Silver and Gold members.
Here’s a snippet from the manual regarding tape speed adjustment:
With regard to the doors, again the manual shows the correct routing of the wire cable that moves the doors, so it is worth checking that first because you have the system disassembled. It could also be worth cleaning and maybe lubricating the door runners. If there is still a problem, I would replace the door motor belt – however new it looks you cannot be sure of its age, or whether an incorrect belt has been fitted.
Personally I would fit new belts for doors, tape and CD mechanism, all available from here: https://www.dksoundparts.com/product-category/beosound/beosound-2500/
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