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If you do as @Carolpa suggests, I understand that you also want IR control of the BM7000, hence I think you could put the BM7000 in A.OPT 0 (to stop it responding to IR) and add an IR receiver to the BLC to give both IR control and app/Halo control.
I just tried this with my setup: BC2300 in A.OPT 0. Added IR sensor to BLC and moved speakers (Passive etc) from BC2300 to BLC also. It works fine. I can start BC2300 using app and/or Beo4 remote. The only loss of functionality is the volume display on the front of the BC2300 (because the BLC is controlling the volume).
EDIT: One other limitation: As described is this thread, I cannot start the BC2300 FM Radio source using the app, but I can using the Beo4 remote. As mentioned later in that thread, it is possible to add the FM radio source as an ML source on other NL devices, such as Beosound Essence.
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I think the reason for this behaviour is that the way the NL/ML converter connect to a B&O music system is in many ways how it would work with a connected Beovision or a Link room where it is the speakers on the controlling unit (in this case the NL/ML converter just controlled via App or another NL device instead of a remote) that is started and not the speakers connected to the the music system
I agree – it’s the logical way for the system to work! Also, I don’t think the ‘
datalink‘ ‘audio aux link’ connection (between BL1611 and BM7000/BC9300) is designed to control volume. However, when I connected my BV10-32 to the NL/ML Converter I could control the TV volume with the app, so a purely ‘masterlinked’ BLC may be more capable.Do you still use the Beolink Passive for local speaker?
Yes I did but I used my little adaptor to swap PL trigger pins so that the Passive muted correctly – hopefully behaving just like a Beolab.
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I have just been experimenting with a NL/ML Converter connected to BC2300 via BL1611. I can start the CD and skip through tracks, but my BC2300 also starts in a muted state. Unlike you, I can then use the Beo4 remote to unmute and control the volume (hence I am surprised that you cannot do the same with the IR remote for your BM7000).
You could disconnect the Beolabs from the Beomaster 7000. Set the BLC as VMaster. Connect the BL to the BLC. Then try to start the Beosystem 7000 sources on the BLC with the Halo or B&o app.
If you do as @Carolpa suggests, I understand that you also want IR control of the BM7000, hence I think you could put the BM7000 in A.OPT 0 (to stop it responding to IR) and add an IR receiver to the BLC to give both IR control and app/Halo control.
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Didn´t know that the connection between Beolink 1000 and the BC is down after changing the battery.
The problem was the A.OPT setting of the Beocenter. Basically, if you don’t want it to respond to the remote, you can put it in A.OPT 0 by pressing SOUND 0 STORE on the BL1000.
SOUND 1 STORE will make it respond to IR commands again, but only audio commands (RADIO, CD etc)
SOUND 2 STORE will allow it to respond to both audio commands (as above) and video commands (TV, SAT etc).
For some reason removal of the battery made it revert to A.OPT 0
And have a great weekend too!
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Hi Stefan,
I gather from your other post that you have a BL1000 remote.
With the Beocenter in standby (turned off), use the BL1000 to press ‘SOUND’ then ‘1’ then ‘STORE’. Hopefully the Beocenter will then respond to the remote.
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Splitter is inverted “Y” with one “branch” immediately coming from the BM7000, the other RJ45 from the converter and the stem off to the speaker. (BL50) If there is a conflict wiring this way I wonder if I could leave the powerlink connected to the 7000 and connect the converter via USB or RCA to the speaker thereby choosing a different input?
Yes this is a conflict and I would strongly advise against using it in this way. (Effectively you have the output of the BM7000 connected direct to the output of the NL/ML – one may well damage/overload the other. Furthermore, the speakers could well be receiving an unusual (potentially damaging) dual input.)
The correct solution is to connect the speakers to the BM7000 and persevere to get the system working as it should!
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I put a powerlink splitter in the connection
Can you explain where? It’s not a good idea for Beolabs to have two different inputs.
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If it’s an intermittent fault then it could well be an issue with one of the cables, or the connections to either BL1611 or BM7000. I think that you have tried two different 7-pin DINs, but maybe check that they are securely inserted, and also check the ML cable – make sure that the terminals are clean and that there is no fluff or dirt in the sockets.
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I am pretty sure that the NL/ML Converter should not be set as A Master because this will conflict with the BM7000/BL1611 which is also acting as an Audio Master. Try V Master.
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That did the trick! Could not type in 2002 on CONFIG? on the new Beo4 remote for whatever reason, but could with the old one. Then successfully could sent with that same old remote A.OPTION > 1 to Beomaster 7000 (saw it being received) and then everything worked again; also with the new Beo4 remote. Thanks you so much!
Great news – I was beginning to give up hope. To be honest I am not 100% sure what the problem was but am very glad that it is working now. Thanks for your patience in experimenting with my ideas! 😀
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es 7 PIN datalink. I have tried two of them now.
My main worry was that it may be in the wrong socket on the back of the Beomaster – there are so many DIN connections that it can be hard to locate the TV/AUX when fumbling around blind
I now suspect the 7000 is in a wrong mode somehow but I have tried them all. ‘Very odd?
The A.OPT of the Beomaster should have no effect here, but I would probably leave it on A.OPT 1 so that you can use a remote, or A.OPT 2 if you wanted to also control video sources distributed by the NL/ML converter.
A further thought: Have you tried connecting the BC2 to the BM7000 by ML? You could put the BC2 in A.OPT 6 thus pretending that it is in a Linkroom, and then see if you can control the BM7000 from it.
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It might have stopped working because I did a RESET? on the Beo4
RESET on the navi Beo4 should not affect the BM7000 IR receiver.
However, let’s check again by using your older Beo4 remote – you know this is working because you could see the transmitters glowing with your phone.
Re-try the A.OPT 1 procedure with the older Beo4. Be sure to follow the instructions preceisely, ie:
- Turn the BS7000 to standby/off by using the power button on the front panel.
- On the Beo4, press the POWER button and LIST together. Then press LIST until OPTION is shown, press GO (centre button), and then press LIST to show A.OPT. Then press 1. The power light on the BM7000 should blink to show that it has been accepted.
If that doesn’t work, then on the older Beo4, try this:
- Power+ List together
- Press List till CONFIG appears
- Enter 2 0 0 2, and the display will say either LINK ON, or LINK OFF.
- Press Exit
- You need the screen to say LINK OFF, so repeat the above procedure until it does so (it will toggle each time the procedure is followed)
Then try setting A.OPT 1 again.
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Is the datalink cable a fully wired 7-pin? And is it definitely connected to the AUX/TV socket of the BM7000 and the AAL socket of the BL1611?
I don’t think that the Powerlink cable is required in this setup – it’s probably worth disconnecting in case it is causing a conflict.
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Just to confirm, the IR receiver in the BM7000 is internal?
Yes it is. There was an external sensor available in case you wanted to put the main unit in a cupboard, but even fitting this wouldn;t disable the internal sensor.
Looking at this thread https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/18489.aspx, might there also not be an option to turn off the IR receiver at the BM7000 and I might have accidentally done that when resetting the Beo4? Because, before that, the remote was sort of working. And if that is another solution, question remains how to turn on the IR receiver on the BM7000.
Using the Beo4 remote to set A.OPT 0 stops the BM7000 from responding to IR commands. (Pedantically, it doesn’t actually ‘turn off’ the IR receiver, because you can use the Beo4 to set A.OPT 1 to get it to start responding again).
When you say that the remote was ‘sort of working’ before, was that when it was connected to the TV? In your earlier setup (with the TV connected to the BM7000 and the speakers connected to the TV), the TV would have been set to V.OPT 2, in which setting it would respond to both video (TV, DTV etc) and audio (RADIO, CD etc) commands – relaying the latter to the BM7000 over Masterlink. The BM7000 would have been set to A.OPT 0 where it would not respond to direct IR commands because it is getting them via the TV/masterlink.
So the BM7000 is either stuck in A.OPT 0, or there is a fault that stops it receiving (responding to) IR commands.
I assume that you were using a BeoLink 1611 converter to connect masterlink to the BM7000 – have you removed that from the system? If not, try disconnecting it from the BM7000.
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I can’t see anything lighting up from the Beo4 with little navi button (maybe it’s to faint?).
Strange. In that case you could try adjusting the IR power setting on that navi remote to the maximum.
Access the service menu by pressing stby + LIST at the same time, and then MENU + (joystick) at the same time. Press ^ several times until the display reads IRPWR: X. 1 is the lowest and 7 is the max IR signal strength (default is 4). Give 7 a try to see if that gets through to the BM7000 – try the A.OPT 1 setting procedure again.
If that doesn’t work, and given that the other remote also won’t control it, perhaps your BM7000 is faulty like the one in this thread: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beomaster-7000-not-responding/
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I would be very coincidental if the Beo4 just gave up emitting IR signals at the same time I removed the TV out of my installation. How do I exactly check Beo4 remote working with an iPhone selfie camera?
I agree, but worth checking! Just view the end of the remote with the selfie camera and you should be able to see the IR transmitters glowing faintly when you press buttons on the remote.
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Can you also confirm that your Beo4 has the little navi button in the centre of the arrow keys? Is it the one on the far right in the picture below?
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Could it be I need to point it to the IR receiver more closely, and if so, where is that positioned on the Beomaster 7000.
That shouldn’t be necessary* – but have you checked that the Beo4 is actually working (transmitting IR) by observing the end with an iPhone selfie camera?
* There is a setting for turning down the IR output on the Beo4, but we’ll come back to that once you have checked the above.
Or could another device (like the Apple TV I do have) capture the IR signal before it reaches the Beomaster 7000?
No. There have been reports of plasma TVs affecting IR signals, but this is unlikely.
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The BM7000 should be in standby (off) when you carry out the A.OPT 1 procedure – and I think that it should acknowledge the instruction in some way – either a flash of the standby light or a number in the display.
The A.OPT 1 procedure does not change the output of the Beo4 – it re-programmes the Beomaster to accept IR commands.
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Good advice above – I would go for PL Mk3 cables from Steve.
However, you also asked about the 5-pin DIN cable in your post. Checking the service manual of BL8000, the input makes no use of PL pins 6, 7 or 8. This would suggest that a 5-pin DIN cables would indeed ‘work’, but there is no guarantee that L&R signal connections (pins 3&5) are correctly shielded, hence best to stick with the correct cable. I can’t find the circuit diagram for Beolab 2, but this may be the same.
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