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Great news – and a Merry Christmas to you and yours too! 🎄🎅🤶
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorOne other thing that you could try is a reset of the handset – this has been known to solve registration problems.
Take a note of any saved phonebook numbers first!
On the handset, press 9 # 9 # 9 * INT
… and then scroll down to ‘reset handset’ and press OK.
Then try pairing again.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorHave a search (either google or the forum) for ‘speaker refoaming’ or more specifically ‘Beolab 3500 speaker refoaming’.
There are also replacement drivers on UK eBay, both second hand and ‘new old stock’, but both appear to be quite expensive.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorI have successfully used UK PSTNs in Denmark and Danish PSTNs in UK. The only problem that I have experienced is that caller display does not work when using Danish PSTN in UK. The Beocom should be able to pair.
What model of PSTN is it? The newer (mars bar size) PSTN is only open for pairing for 5 minutes after connection to the mains. Older PSTN models require a button press to open the base for pairing.
If the base already has the maximum number of phones registered, you would need to use a previously registered phone to delete some of those phones – this may be a problem is the base is second hand!
PS: And welcome to Beoworld!!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorI don’t yet have VOIP, but I just checked my Beoline base and note that its RJ11 connector only has two-wires connected (to pins 3&4) . In my case these go via an adaptor to pins 2 and 5 of the BT master socket.
Given that the RJ11 connector on B&O basestations only has two wires connected, I don’t see how a ‘4 wire adapter’ will help. As far as I can see the only other connection variation is to ‘reverse’ pins 3 and 4.
Have you tried the VOIP adaptor and base station without the BeoCom 1401 connected?
I assume that you have googled the problem but have you seen the following ‘AI Overview’ suggestion?
AI Overview
If a Cisco SPA112 is dropping incoming calls, you can try changing the waveform type:
Log in to the Phone Adapter Configuration Utility
Select Voice then Regional
In the Ring and Call Waiting Tone Spec area, select an option from the Ring Voltage drop-down list
In the Ring Waveform field, change the waveform type
Click Submit to save the configurationLocation: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:6 December 2024 at 09:48 in reply to: BeoCenter 9500 – Restore, Keyboard LED’s partly not lit #61370ModeratorYou’ve done lots of good work on the BC9500 already so hopefully we can help!
Looking at the service manual (specifically the circuit diagram for the lower panel) I can see no logical failure that would give the symptoms that you describe on the pdf.
I see that you state that the battery reads 3V, but I would look at replacing it anyway. Failing that, maybe try disconnecting/reconnecting the battery and then carry out the procedure for resetting the BeoCenter when it shows CODE on the display, as follows:
- Fix the battery or RAM and then:
- Using a Beolink 1000 press:1271
- After 3 seconds, disconnect the 9500 from the mains and then reconnect.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorGreat news – thanks for letting us know the outcome, and enjoy the search for your own Century! 😀
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:2 December 2024 at 15:12 in reply to: Help, can’t find resistor R3102 on my CD3300 servo board? #61291ModeratorDoes para 6 and 7 of this help – looks similar!
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorBonsoir Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse et les schémas. 👍🏻 Je vais trouver une autre solution. Penser vous qu’un branchement avec des boitiers CPL fonctionne ? BS9000—POWERLINK RJ 45— CPL BL6000—POWERLINK RJ45—CPL Merci
I think that ‘boiter CPL fonctionne’ are what we know in UK as ‘network powerline adaptors’.
If so, then these will not work. Powerline adaptors are for sending ‘digital data’ (computer network) over the mains power sockets. Powerlink is an ‘analogue’ signal, hence cannot be transmitted over network powerline adaptors.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorI changed the title as requested, but also found this, that states that a Beosound A1 2nd Gen can only pair with another 2nd Gen
The implication being that a Beoplay A1 (1st gen) can only pair with another 1st gen!
Btw: I think A1 2nd is the Beosound A1? Or are there even more generations?
Just those two, as far as I am aware.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorMessage I have a 2007 Beovision 7-32 HD with Scart sockets leading to a dish based Humax 500 Mb recorder box. This box is failing but replacing with a new Freesat HDMI recorder is causing problems because there is no HDMI socket on the B&O and an HDMI converter to Scart doesn’t work – I’ve already tried it. I’m told that it’s possible to use the DVI socket via a HDMI-DVI cable but with phono-stereo jacks too, presumably for sound? Would the phonos connect to the sound stereo jack or Optical socket on the Freesat box?
Sorry but I didn’t see this when originally posted!
Welcome to Beoworld, and perhaps you’ll find that my post in this thread helps explain how to use an hdmi audio extractor to solve the problem: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/hdmi-connection-for-beovision-7-mk1/#post-1606
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorYes I wondered that myself but it doesn’t work for me – if I select PC, nothing happens, and my Beosound 4 does not switch on (or switch source). It may work if you have your Beolabs connected direct to the PC2, but it doesn’t seem to work when connected to another audio master via ML.
Ah yes you may well be right there. When I tested mine I had just a BeoLab 3500 connected (i.e not another audiomaster) and I think I could select (and listen to) ‘PC’ on the BL3500.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:Moderator^ Can’t you just select the ‘PC’ source in the Beoplayer/Beoport app and then just use the PC command from any B&O devices on the same network. Then there’s no need to mix.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorOf the Beo4s, I think you are safer to go for the Mk1 ‘AV’ version to get PHONO. In my notes I have written that PHONO may have only been available in LIST prior to Beo4 SW 4.2, but I am not at all sure if this is correct!
There may be a Beo4 SW version that will show both PHONO and N.RADIO – possibly one of the early Mk2s (SAT, DVD version) that was introduced in the early days of N.RADIO.
Not sure about Beo5/6. (EDIT: I just checked by running the Beo 5/6 configuration tool and it does allow you to chose PHONO as a source displayed on the screen – I combined it with BC9500 in this instance. I haven;t checked with a physical Beo5/6))
But have you considered BL1000 which has PHONO written on the physical button? Or even Beolink Audio Terminal?
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorI have just updated the first post with the new information
Many thanks 👍
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:Moderatorhowever, I think I will try to open the case and remove all present dust from the years. Besides the information from the thread you’ve posted on how to open the case (removing 6 screws), how do I actually remove the front panel? Is it just the glass or are there any wires or the panel connected? Will it just slide off (which direction)?
I have never done this as I don’t have a BV10-46. The service manual does explain and is available to Gold /Silver members of this site (see here). I just had a quick look and after removing the 6 TX20 screws at the lower rear (under the connection panel cover) the front of the TV (frame and glass) should slide upwards and off. You really need the service manual to identify and remove further components.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorOne other observation: With both the A2540 and A2854 remotes in the same room as the Apple TV, as soon as you connect one of the remotes to the Apple TV, the other immediate loses the ability to control the TV by IR. It would seems that part of the remote ‘connection’ process is for the Apple TV to send a message to the previous remote, effectively clearing its settings.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorI just took a gamble on a 2nd gen, A2540 (lightning) siri remote, advertised on eBay as ‘not working/for parts’. Total cost (incl P&P) £7.16.
It arrived today so I connected it to a charger, carried out a restart as described here and then connected it to my Apple TV 4K 3rd Gen.
It works perfectly, including IR control of B&O BV10-32 volume etc – seems to behave just like the later A2854 (USB-C) version.
I checked the SW version and it’s at 0x83 – which corresponds with the latest version issued in September 2023, according to this useful site: https://appledb.dev/device/ATVRemote1,3.html
I also noticed that the Apple TV now shows a Bluetooth Received Signal Strength Indicator (RSSI):
So it would appear that the only version of the siri remote that does not allow IR control of B&O TVs is the 1st gen Rev A ‘white circle’ type.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorIn addition to the above, are you sure that the noise is not coming from an extra fan in the DVB module? Updating this has worked for fan noise in BV8s.
Updated SW for the DVB-HD module can be downloaded here: https://support.bang-olufsen.com/hc/en-us/articles/360041405212-DVB-HD
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons:ModeratorHi and welcome to Beoworld!
You may have already seen these two threads raising similar issues:
One suggesting a software fix (talks about BV10-40 and Mk2 but may apply to your BV10-46 also): https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/7008.aspx
And this one talking about fan replacement or cleaning – looks to be a big job! https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/37391/284220.aspx#284220
I think I have seen other threads where people have replaced fans with different quieter types – possibly in other older Beovisions.
Location: Warwickshire, UKMy B&O Icons: -
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