[Dillen]

Replace tantal 1C19 4,7uF and let us know.

Martin

[Dillen]

Type number?

Martin

[Dillen]

Reflow the rivet vias. They are found on both the servo and decoder PCBs.

Martin

[Dillen]

How much, and what, was restored/rebuilt?
Capacitors?

Martin

[Dillen]

The short answer is no.
Beocenter 2100 is a very nice system in its own right (and highly collectable as they are getting rare), but it’s not that advanced.

Martin

[Dillen]

It’s the transformer.
Take it out, mask things off, soak it in lacquer under vacuum. Then let it dry in 50degC for 24h.
Fit it back with new rubber mounts.

Martin

[Dillen]

You didn’t tell us where you used the wirewound resistors?

Geoff, are you here, listening?
I wonder if you could find a few words to say about this,
– why, do you think, Bang & Olufsen never addressed any of these, seemingly serious,
issues in any of their passive speaker models and is it, perhaps, something that will
be taken into consideration when you develop and design new speaker models for B&O?

Martin

[Dillen]

xschop wrote:

1. Thank you. You did a fine job yourself, takes Alot of patience. Yes, I painted the frames satin black to match the cones. I rebuilt crossovers with film caps and wire-wound resistors. I also machined and phase-plugged the midranges, as well as foamed the inner baskets frames for ultimate clarity. I’m running them in conjunction with a rebuilt Polk RM-1000 subwoofer and custom tpa3255 amp to match aesthetically. Pure audio bliss.

I find this interesting,
– a few questions if you don’t mind:

Wire-wound resistors – where?

“machined and phase-plugged the midranges”
What is that, exactly ?
Is that the cone shaped thingy? If so, can you tell what improvement this provides?

“Foamed the inner baskets frames for ultimate clarity”
Interesting, – what is the theory behind this?
And do you have any before and after values that would cast light onto what improvement this provides?

Martin

[Dillen]

No relay click when you select a source?
Front panel correctly fitted? – If the bronze forks under the front panel does not grip
each their little pin on the circuit board, the touch fields will not work.

Martin

[Dillen]

Something shorted?
Which transistors did you replace?
How did they measure wrong?
And what did you fit instead?

Martin

[Dillen]

Sure you got the tracking angle correct?
I think it looks very steep.

Martin

[Dillen]

Make sure the whole motor assy hangs free in its spring supports.
The motors metal bracket must not touch the nylon bushings (or metal carrier
bracket depending on version) anywhere (in normal playing position),
or you will experience exactly what you describe.

Martin

[Dillen]

Why not have the Beogram repaired?
It’s a nice deck, and they are all repairable.

Martin

[Dillen]

It would not.
They are very different. Beogram 5000 opens all the way to the back and is opened at the push of a button by spring tension.

Martin

[Dillen]

The felt pad is most likely from a cassette tape.
Inside every tape cassette, on the reverse side of the tape, is a felt pad to press the tape up against the tapehead while playing.
I don’t recognize the spring.

Martin

[Dillen]

The spring has lost its tension.
Take it out and twist it from both ends towards the center to add more tension.

Martin

[Dillen]

The component designation depends on the exact type of Beogram 4002.

0TR4 in some versions.
1IC4 in other versions.
Etc.

Martin

[Dillen]

Shorted solenoid driver transistor?

Martin

[Dillen]

Could be a bad relay.
There are two, found on the large tape controller board under the turntable.

Martin

[Dillen]

radzio222 wrote:

But it doesn’t start event if I’m on CD mode.

Still normal.
Press CD instead, – and it will also close the door if open.
Same as with all other B&O CD players.
Martin

[Author]

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