[Dillen]

There should be no pairing.
If you are sure, that the Beo4 is working, it’s most likely, that the remote receiver is not
longer working in the BeoSound 2000.
If the latter is the case, I made this kit:

https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product/beosound-century-ir-remote-control-pcb-service-kit/

Martin

[Dillen]

Beomaster 6000 4-channel?

Martin

[Dillen]

Martin

[Dillen]

They are not 1970s – but then again, there weren’t that many LEDs in 1970s B&O.

Martin

[Dillen]

Good job, and thanks for the feedback!

Martin

[Dillen]

Question is not why something works.
Question is why something doesn’t work.
In your case, – where things basically works when commanded from outside but not
from its own operation panel, there must be a problem getting the commands from the panel to the processor.

Most problems of this sort are caused by cables, connectors, solder joints and
stuck switches. However, the keyboard reading circuit could also be at fault.
If the display on the front panel is also garbled, perhaps some circuit shared by those
two functions should be looked at.

Martin

[Dillen]

When you fit the black subplatter to the hub, make sure to match the
three “protrusions” on it with the three small indentations on the hub.
If you don’t the subplatter will ride too high.

And you have the platter upside up – right? Your photo shows its downside.

Martin

[Dillen]

Front panel cable/plug correctly seated?
One or more buttons stuck down?

Martin

[Dillen]

You should be able to find out the other leads as well using an ohmmeter / continuity.

Martin

[Dillen]

A handrule is that the “warmest” color is always right.
If your cable has red and white, red is right and white is left.

Martin

[Dillen]

If the relay is chattering, it could be the diode inside the housing has shorted.
I have seen this happen a couple of times.

All fine inside the relay housing? – Check the adjustment and position of arms and levers
and that the small wire spring on one of the relay box arms is still present.

Martin

[Dillen]

Mark-sf wrote:

Great progress! I would measure the woofers as the doped cones will likely change the parameters causing a crossover modification.

I agree. Even a few grams usually make quite a difference.
– And even more so will the change to rubber surrounds.
I tried it a few times, but when I measured and compared T/S I found them
to be far out compared to the original specs, so I ripped the rubber off
again and changed it back to foam. After a few hours playing time, allowing
the new foam to losen up a bit, everything was spot on, back where it belongs.
I never used rubber again, where foam was used originally.

But of course it can be done if you really MUST have rubber.
A compensation for the lack of cabinet volume
needed to satisfy the T/S with rubber (I seem to remember them requiring
8-10 liters) could perhaps be made by introducing a filler driver of some sort, though
driving it right phase-wise could be quite a task and would almost
definitely require a bit of signal processing – not least because it would
almost definitely need to be rear-facing due to lack of front area.
A passive radiator would require a too large area to have any effect, – far
more than what is available – as would surely a bass reflex system,
– and we must not forget that if both the midrange and woofer drivers
are changed to rubber surrounds, both will need compensating, and
not necessarily in the same way.
But why? – When you can just fit foam.

I am looking forward to seeing the frequency response and new filter calculations.

Martin

[Dillen]

If some lights come on, but nothing more happens, it could point to the
CPU not running or not being reset correctly.
Most like a capacitor problem.

Check power supply voltages and look for excess ripple from dying filter capacitors.

Martin

[Dillen]

Wrong wattage lamp for the FM1 indicator?
Yes, they are critical.

Martin

[Dillen]

The lifter arm with the small pad should work in the groove, so it can lift and lower the wheel.

Martin

[Dillen]

Read my post in this thread:

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beogram-1902-dust-cover/

Martin

[Dillen]

I like to use a teflon-based oil called “Liquid bearing”, but any good long-term oil or light grease would be fine.

Parts here.

Martin

[Dillen]

Note the note about cable and socket matching here:

https://www.beoparts-shop.com/product/cdm12-4-laser-module-beocenter-2300-2500-beosound-3000-4000-ouverture-a-o/

Martin

[Dillen]

You don’t replace it – it must be taken apart, cleaned and lubricated. It can all seize up
in dry lubricants.
New idler wheel, new lifting arm friction pad and a new belt.
The motor will almost surely also need new bearings in order to run correctly.
All of these parts are available.

Martin

[Dillen]

No! Not the circuit board (that’s not an easy task).

The large dial panel = the large black metal facia with the white lettering/frequencies
and channels, that the sliding dial pointer travels on, – that also holds the lamps.
One screw each corner of the panel (= two screws each end of the Beomaster).

Martin

[Author]

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