[Die_Bogener]

You are right, the Tape1 and the CD Port share the same protection diodes D1 and D2.

Tape2 and Phono use D3 and D4.

There is still no CD Player in the system for a test?

D1-D4 are on the Preamp Board.

[Die_Bogener]

Ja. Die erste Version kann kein Mute mit Speakerlink. Man muss das echt über die Lautstärkeregelung machen.

Das Einschalten ist immer mit einem PLOPP verbunden, manchmal lauter, meistens sogar  akzeptabel.

Aber MUTE funktioniert nicht. Es ist auch keine Leitung dafür vorhanden, ich hatte erwartet, dass das vielleicht über das Display und ihrer Datenübertragung gelöst wäre. Nein, dem ist nicht so.

Mute gibt es bei den Pentas erst ab PowerLink.

Was beim Klang einer frühen Penta 1 aber keinen Abbruch tut. Man kann sie ganz genauso audiophil aufrüsten wie die späteren Versionen.

Einzig so Themen wie: zerbrochenes Klappenscharnier, Frontblende, Schalter, zerbrochene Frontplatine oder auch andere Hauptplatine sind sehr spezielle Themen weil anders zu den Nachfolgern. Von der Penta 1 ist garnichts mehr erhältlich oder auch nur gebraucht intakt beschaffbar. Die Scharniergeschichte der Klappe war nun 9 Monate Sucherei… man kriegt es noch mit sehr viel Suchen zum Goldpreis. 10g Plastik für 200,-  … ein wahres Schnäppchen.

Ist aber egal. Eine Note 1 bekommt man nicht vom Sperrmüll… und der Sammler ist glücklich.

[Die_Bogener]

“Fast nur…”…

…also sieht man auch andere?

Mach mal Bilder.

In den Teilekatalogen sehe ich keine andere Version als Kupferlack auf Kunststoffträgerleiste. Seitens B&O also immer kupferfarben. Ausser meine gedruckten Manuals wären sowas von veraltet, dass die letzte Variante fehlen würde… wäre ja möglich.

[Die_Bogener]

Dillen wrote:

New datalink pins here: Beoparts-shop Martin

Yes, it’s very good that these very rare parts are available again or still available and that somebody takes a lot of care and love…

… but: these small parts are more expensive than 24 carat GOLD.

So it makes sense: take care on rare B&O parts!

They are more worth than pure gold.

Back to the problem: if Port Tape2 ist working, Tape1 is not working: Check the soldering of the Port connector. The solder on the Preamp makes problems and there are splits/cracks in the solder.

[Die_Bogener]

Use a seperate regulated and controlled digital power supply.

Then you see, wether there is a broken line, dead transistor or overload… the additional power supply and its adjustment will decide wether it does something or there are smoke, glowing parts or funny crackling lines.

[Die_Bogener]

Most people pull the cable, not the plug.

Broken wires in the plug are very very common.

And since a 7-pin plug does not work with non-B&O and is replaced often with a 5-pin standard plug, there is no ir control. Usually the 2 extra pins get lost… and they are very rare and very expensive.

And when it comes back to B&O hardware, there is no 7-pin B&O plug available, since 7-pin are non standard and very expensive.

[Die_Bogener]

There are some resistors in the power supply as  “fuseable resistors”…

They just burn out…  sometimes difficult to see.

[Die_Bogener]

Check the wires and sockets… the solder can be broken.

 

[Die_Bogener]

The white gear wheel is just snapped on the axle. Either pull it or use a small needle to open the snap…

[Die_Bogener]

Red = +

[Die_Bogener]

billfraser wrote:

1. But when I then tried to select the CD5500, a relay started clicking in the BM, there was a sudden cacophony of very loud static noises from the Beolab Pentas, the little red LED’s on all four system components went out, and the whole system went dead. So the BM is obviously much sicker than I’d feared.

 

 

You have a bad power cord/box/wallbox…

When all 4 red lights fail, it’s a general power fail of the 220V cord.

[Die_Bogener]

Somebody cleaned it with a knife. OK, not very professional…

The black foam has done it’s work with acid. The board has acid defects and corrosion.

Clean it with isopropanol and a good looking glass for acid…

The bL8000 needs the foam. There are white foam offers in Ebay.

[Die_Bogener]

Remove the clamp for the center of the CD. This is probably the scrapping noise.

The metal clamp can be adjusted on the side.

The complete sliding unit has a excentric adjustment on the left side near the transformator. There shoud be a damping rubber band around, 2mm rubber ring… if that is lost, the slide moves too far inside and the clamp will make contact/noise.

[Die_Bogener]

You have a choice.

• Do nothing and wait
• Do it now and have no damage in the future

The foam will deterioate, it’s just a matter of time and heat.

And when it looks like this… have a nice day! It’s a lot of work…

[Die_Bogener]

10 mm wire???

[Die_Bogener]

Probably the crossover ist defect or the one who did this wanted to change the sound.

Either more bass or treble… but without filter this is senseless and will destroy the speakers.

If it is treble: very nice to send low frequencies to a tweeter, this will extend lifetime… to some minutes.

And if it is bass: ok, this will kill the amp…

[Die_Bogener]

Is the crossover network still existing and fully mounted?

Otherwise ist could be a bypass for the crossover…

But it looks like a standard work of B&O… ???

Check, wether this cap manufacturer is also used on the board.

[Die_Bogener]

Defect head speaker plug.

[Die_Bogener]

Epoxy will not work for long time.

Loctite 480 will do the job.

[Die_Bogener]

Caps? No. But it can be improved with better material.

Sound? Is the load on the MMC adjusted? There is a adjustable weight for the load…

[Author]

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