[billbriscoe]

Hi Peter,

have you tried (with the BL1000) pressing Link, 6, Store?  (you could also try 4 or 5).

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

Have you verified that the CD centering mechanism is set to the correct position (vertical or horizontal, wall or table)?

When you moved it to lay flat on the table did you adjust the settings for horizontal orientation?  These adjustment “screws” on the bottom of the unit are definitely required to be in the proper position for correct operation.

That’s the first thing to check.

 

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

I guess the first thing to do is to make sure the keyboard is properly seated in its holder. I would suggest removing it, check for any lint, dirt, etc. and then reinsert carefully making sure it is engaged in the connector first before pushing it down.  This can be a bit tricky. You may want to try both of the possible orientations to be sure it’s a problem in both positions.

If you are absolutely sure that it is fully seated properly and still doesn’t respond, then see the the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YR2RgUSTrss

It hows how to remove the top cover, once you get that removed you can see the cables from the secondary keyboard and where they attach to the PCBs. Make sure they are snug.

I’ve removed the top cover for repairs on two of my BS9000s, one for a loose keyboard cable and once to clean the gear drive. In both cases it was not too difficult if you have a video or the service manual.  I recommend upgrading your membership to get access to the service manual, it’s well worth it.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

The buttons along the lower edge of the front side are considered the primary keyboard and the set on the “operation panel” are known as the secondary keyboard in the B&O service manual.  Was the unit shipped or transported in order to get to you?  I ask because I once purchased a unit that was shipped in the original packaging but arrived with a dead secondary keyboard.  Everything else worked fine including the remote.  It turned out that the connector plug from the secondary keyboard had become dislodged from the PCB.  Once I plugged it back in, it worked just fine. Unfortunately, it does require some disassembly, but the service manual describes all the steps and it’s relatively straightforward.  Hopefully that’s all that’s wrong with yours too.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

If you had to reset the option setting to 1 often, I would guess that the internal backup battery has died and should be replaced.  You don’t want it to leak and damage anything.

Make sure that the upper part of the front panel of the BM7000 is very clean and also the red “glass” windows on your remotes.

To quickly test if the remotes are sending IR signals, you can use the camera on your phone to record a video. The BL 1000 IR emitters are located along the top edge and  around to the bottom under the red “glass” covers.  Point the camera at the emitters and start recording then start pushing buttons and the remote.  Playback the video and check to see if you see the emitters flashing.  You can’t see them with the naked eye.  The MCP 5500 emitters are located at the corners of the red “glass” along the back edge. Take another video of the MCP5500 and see what happens.

If you see the one or both of the remotes flashing then you can rule one or both out. If either one is working, use it and get close to the BM7000 and press sound > 1 store.  If the BM7000 standby light doesn’t blink once, it didn’t receive the IR signal.

Report back your findings and hopefully other members will have some more helpful input.

Good luck,

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi Lee,

Thank you so much for all you’ve done over the years! And many thanks also to Keith for keeping the site up and running in spite of all the crazy hackers out there!

How about just an annual Prize Draw with an increase in membership fees to keep the site going?

I made a donation and I would hope that many others will do the same.  We all learn and gain an immeasurable amount of useful knowledge to keep our units alive.

Many thanks again to you and Keith!

Bill

[billbriscoe]

beoparts.com has crossover kits for pentad, you may want to check them out

[billbriscoe]

I also think this is a communication issue. I would double check the flat ribbon cable connections between the chips and the board, and check the cable connections at the cd mechanism as well just in case something was disturbed while you were changing the door belt and updating the software. If those are all properly seated then I also think it’s time to try the original software and see if that gets the unit back to where it was before. In test mode, clear all of the error codes first and then see what comes up.

My BS3000 battery leaked onto the board it’s mounted on and etched some of the traces beneath the battery. I had to replace the board and battery and now it’s back to normal operation.

[billbriscoe]

have you looked down into the masterlink socket on the BS3000 to check for dust, lint, or some other foreign stuff, and to make sure no pins are bent/touching?

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

Did you disconnect everything from power before plugging in the masterlink cable at the BS3000? I would suggest trying the BS3000 as standalone again, no masterlink connected.

See if that makes any difference first.

[billbriscoe]

It’s hard to say. Everything else is “connected” to the power supply board either directly or indirectly. There are some very sensitive parts that may have been damaged. If the fuses did their job you should be ok as they should have failed first, disconnecting power everywhere upstream. I would think chances are good that the fuses blew first.
The fuses are soldered to the PCB and if I recall correctly you remove the back cover panel to be able to remove PCB 5. This can be a real PITA. You can visually examine it by removing the gearbox.

Take your time and go one step at a time.

[billbriscoe]

this is the board I mentioned on eBay at the moment:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254775923727?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kmv-xY_3TQ-&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=7i–KCwtScG&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[billbriscoe]

Have you checked the fuses on PCB 5, the power supply and motor control board? It’s located under the door gear sensor assembly. This is the board that is above the transformer, and is where the transformer wires plug in.

I would guess that at a minimum the fuses have blown.

Good luck, these are really great units!

Bill

[billbriscoe]

I had the same problem many years ago. I think I loosened the phillips head screw that holds the solenoid panel to the chassis and moved the assembly to the right a little but I can’t be sure.

Here is a link to a good description of problem solving the door issue:
https://beolover.blogspot.com/2021/12/beomaster-5000-type-2323-solving.html

You should be careful opening the door after all these years. The flexible cable that connects the circuits from the panel to the main system breaks over time and then you have big problem.

Good luck,.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

I have mine 2.5m apart and my seating position is 3.5m away. In a perfect world my seating position would be closer. As it is, I have excellent sound stage imaging in this setup which is strictly 2 channel stereo.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

I believe that what you are describing as the cd allocation buttons and the door opener are in fact the primary keyboard (there is a left and and a right) and these are PCBs 11 and 12. PCB13 is the secondary keyboard (volume, bass, treble, tuning, etc). B&O has referred to the secondary keyboard as the close up operation panel in some of the user reference materials. Both the primary and secondary keyboards plug into PCB3, the main microcomputer and power supply.

Have you double checked to make sure that the secondary keyboard has been properly attached and seated? It might be a good idea to remove it and try reseating it again (connector plug first) and maybe even try it in both orientations?

[billbriscoe]

Hi, the IR PCB is to the right of the tape and CD mechanisms in the gap between them and the amplifier and in the middle of the two mechanism plastic covers. To remove the right speaker cover remove the 2 screws on the back, and then carefully lift the plastic edge of the speaker fret up slightly so it will clear the lip it is sitting in, then slide the fret out to the right. It is held in place by a number of plastic tabs that fit under some slots, so do don’t lift up, just slide it out to the right. If I recall correctly after a couple of inches of travel it becomes loose and you can then lift it off. Remove the glass door.

Remove the tape and CD plastic covers, 4 screws on each at the corners, just move them over to the left a little bit so you can see PCB 6, the IR PCB, in the gap.

The IR PCB is between the tape mechanism and the amplifier, you should see it very close to where the glass door stops when fully closed. Sometimes you can get lucky and it will lift straight up and out after you loosen the wire bundle.

It sounds like there are many steps and pieces to remove but it is actually a pretty simple procedure, likely with a much better write up that describes the disassembly on the forum somewhere.

Good luck,

Bill

[billbriscoe]

I had a similar problem on one of my BS9000s and it turned out that the cable from the keyboard had come loose at the PCB connector (PCB 3, connector P13) or it might have been P71 on PCB13 (secondary keyboard) but I think it was P13 on PCB3.

Good luck,

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

The foam material does breathe. The sound absorption is greater the higher the frequency, so the base port should be getting all the lower frequencies. I have changed the foam damping in my BL8000s to the updated version a number of years ago. The base response was not impacted. I use a pink noise generator along with a real time spectrum analyzer to adjust my system to be as “flat” as best I can. The lowest frequencies needed to be turned down a bit to get to “flat” response.

I think the foam materials and location info provided by B&O are just fine to use as-is.

Bill

[Author]

Posts