[billbriscoe]

this is the board I mentioned on eBay at the moment:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/254775923727?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=kmv-xY_3TQ-&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=7i–KCwtScG&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[billbriscoe]

Have you checked the fuses on PCB 5, the power supply and motor control board? It’s located under the door gear sensor assembly. This is the board that is above the transformer, and is where the transformer wires plug in.

I would guess that at a minimum the fuses have blown.

Good luck, these are really great units!

Bill

[billbriscoe]

I had the same problem many years ago. I think I loosened the phillips head screw that holds the solenoid panel to the chassis and moved the assembly to the right a little but I can’t be sure.

Here is a link to a good description of problem solving the door issue:
https://beolover.blogspot.com/2021/12/beomaster-5000-type-2323-solving.html

You should be careful opening the door after all these years. The flexible cable that connects the circuits from the panel to the main system breaks over time and then you have big problem.

Good luck,.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

I have mine 2.5m apart and my seating position is 3.5m away. In a perfect world my seating position would be closer. As it is, I have excellent sound stage imaging in this setup which is strictly 2 channel stereo.

Bill

[billbriscoe]

I believe that what you are describing as the cd allocation buttons and the door opener are in fact the primary keyboard (there is a left and and a right) and these are PCBs 11 and 12. PCB13 is the secondary keyboard (volume, bass, treble, tuning, etc). B&O has referred to the secondary keyboard as the close up operation panel in some of the user reference materials. Both the primary and secondary keyboards plug into PCB3, the main microcomputer and power supply.

Have you double checked to make sure that the secondary keyboard has been properly attached and seated? It might be a good idea to remove it and try reseating it again (connector plug first) and maybe even try it in both orientations?

[billbriscoe]

Hi, the IR PCB is to the right of the tape and CD mechanisms in the gap between them and the amplifier and in the middle of the two mechanism plastic covers. To remove the right speaker cover remove the 2 screws on the back, and then carefully lift the plastic edge of the speaker fret up slightly so it will clear the lip it is sitting in, then slide the fret out to the right. It is held in place by a number of plastic tabs that fit under some slots, so do don’t lift up, just slide it out to the right. If I recall correctly after a couple of inches of travel it becomes loose and you can then lift it off. Remove the glass door.

Remove the tape and CD plastic covers, 4 screws on each at the corners, just move them over to the left a little bit so you can see PCB 6, the IR PCB, in the gap.

The IR PCB is between the tape mechanism and the amplifier, you should see it very close to where the glass door stops when fully closed. Sometimes you can get lucky and it will lift straight up and out after you loosen the wire bundle.

It sounds like there are many steps and pieces to remove but it is actually a pretty simple procedure, likely with a much better write up that describes the disassembly on the forum somewhere.

Good luck,

Bill

[billbriscoe]

I had a similar problem on one of my BS9000s and it turned out that the cable from the keyboard had come loose at the PCB connector (PCB 3, connector P13) or it might have been P71 on PCB13 (secondary keyboard) but I think it was P13 on PCB3.

Good luck,

Bill

[billbriscoe]

Hi,

The foam material does breathe. The sound absorption is greater the higher the frequency, so the base port should be getting all the lower frequencies. I have changed the foam damping in my BL8000s to the updated version a number of years ago. The base response was not impacted. I use a pink noise generator along with a real time spectrum analyzer to adjust my system to be as “flat” as best I can. The lowest frequencies needed to be turned down a bit to get to “flat” response.

I think the foam materials and location info provided by B&O are just fine to use as-is.

Bill

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