[Pindsen]

Never seen it, which film is it?

[Pindsen]

Nice to see new stores, could be intereting to see some pictures from inside.
From your description I am a little in doubt if it one of thoses already on the B&O map?

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi,

No that is not normal. In most cases it is the idle trimmer in the output stage being defect. Try to replace it and trim it in according to the service manual.

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi,
If you are slightly skilled you can do the electronic upgrade via this kit:

Capacitor kit Beovox S80-2

The foam you can buy several places and they are not difficult to replace.

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi,

Thank you. As far as I can see Beoparts-shop does not have a belt for a BS9000 and I am a little unsure if those sold on Ebay are correct in specification (Maybe Dillen knows)?

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi,
Beomaster 4500 and Beocenter 4600 are different units from different year periods, so you cannot compare.
Beocenter 4600: https://beocentral.com/beocenter4600
Beomaster 4500: https://beocentral.com/beomaster4500

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi,
The switches was fine but the orange wire to the Pause switch had fallen of (was not easy to see from above). Now it works 🙂
Thanx Martin for leading my attention to the switches.

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Both the playback switch and the pause switch are okay (open-circuit when not engaged and short-circuit when engaged).
The playback switch are not activated during playback, it is open-circuit. The pause switch is opposite.

[Pindsen]

Hi,

I agree with Matador and Hugosnel, a repair is not difficult – I have done a few and it has always been a succes. I don’t know where you are located but in Denmark it is easy to either buy a refoaming kit or you can have many shops/dealers to do it.

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi,
I can very well end this thread by saying that I figured out how it worked. So the spring-back effect was controlled by the bronze metal spring attached on the P2 button but due to metal fatigue it had no effect anymore so I had to create a new spring effect. It is impressive these small detailed engineering techniques B&O has created over years.

[Pindsen]

Hi,
Thank you for the description, I had not noticed the ability to pull the knobs off like you mention. Then I might have another issue, and that is that the buttons do not thay IN when being pressed. There was a small blade spring that has become loose, it was attached to the P2 button on the side but despite trying mounting it differently I cannot make it work – I assume it have something to do with the plastic thing moving underneath the buttons?
Can you help with that also?

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi,
If you get hold of the service manual you will find the whole list there with part numbers.
/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Okay, to finish up my own thread 🙂 my conclusion is now that there did not exist a proper connection between aluminium part and amplifier despite being screwed together. I noticed that the screws are some kind of black CED coated, and by working the screws back and forth several times the hum disappeared and the speaker now works as it should.

[Pindsen]

I have discovered that if the outer aluminium part is being touched it increases the hum. My assumption is that the aluminium part is/or should be “grounded” to the amplifier via the six screws?

Another discovery is that when doing a short circuit of the RCA input the noise in the RCA switch selection lowers to nearly nothing.

I have tried to see if the internal cabling is correct, and it seems like. It though wonders me why the audio cable runs directly under the transformer.

[Pindsen]

No I tried without any audio cable because that to me should be a good starting point where I would expect red LED and total silence.

If I apply a powerlink cable it is more or less the same with green LED and around same hum, but if I apply an RCA cable the hum gets a lot higher.

[Pindsen]

Hi Steve,

There are from time to time dicussions about what is going on in all the “old” B&O factory buildings.
To my knowledge the Farm has been “taken back” by B&O after they at first tried to sell it and then later rentet it to the Struer municipality, maybe B&O is going to use it again?
We know that Factory no. 5 is the aluminium production, but after your visit do you then  know what is going on in factory no. 3 and 4.

I don’t know if factory no. 2 is used by B&O or part of Sound Hub as Factory no.1?

Personally I think it could be cool if B&O started up production again in Struer (Made in Denmark). We hear here in DK that more and more companies take back production from especially China but also other countries, maybe B&O has similar plans?

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi Steve,
Very good videos from your visit at B&O and the collectors you met.

Did you do a recorded interview with Kristian Tear that will be public or can you tell more about what you talked with him about?

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

I have replaced the SE8002 with a BC141-10 and it works fine. I had then 62V at BP testpoint and trimmed it to approx. 60V.
Only downside now is that it gives a high pop in the speakers when they are coupled in.

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi,
If you are nervous about your cover then this is maybe not an option, but I have heard that cleaning cables and fabric in the dishwasher on a soft program can do the trick. I have myself tried with cables but never with fabric.

/Pindsen

[Pindsen]

Hi again.
Thanx for helping. You where right regarding using the phono plugs, then there are sound using the Tuner and AUX input.

Regarding the power supply issue the 33V part is OK but the 60V is wrong. I have found that component 471 (SE8002) is shorted between B-C (4 ohm). I am not able to find a SE8002 but according to this old post a 2N2102 should do the job:
https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/40097/335005.aspx#335005

/Pindsen

[Author]

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