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Im busy relocating my home but from memory,…so I’m recollecting my BeoApp/Halo/BL90 setup. The start-up of my BL90 is set to 38 when receiving a 3rd party source signal. The max volume is 90. This is all setup on the BeoApp.

Always worked correctly once implemented. Before that, you occasionally got a full blast at 90 volume.

 

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Yann,

The BL50/Wiim should handshake together in terms of sample rate.

Have you configured the BL50 to accept coax/optical?

BL50 >> Configure >> input >> three Dots >> Powerlink No.1, SP/Dif or Optical to No.2 >> Listening Preset and Time Out adjusted

Also, because this is a digital, you may need to ensure the BL50s are switched on via a remote (as well as powered on). Because I use XLR, I use the Detect Threshold setting to trigger my BL90s. This is not required on digital sources but somethings up not causing a signal on?

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YannChris wrote:

Millemissen wrote:

Bits are bits!

MM, that’s exactly what I think. But so many people are stating that Core is easily blown away by such or such 3rd streamer that I would like to understand what happens to these poor 0s and 1s ?

That question has been answered by no less than Geoff Martin (who I know many of you value his opinion).

The answer is……bits are bits….and direct digital chain is always better……and……and….that it is fact that every digital music processor/playback device has its own filters which change the sound (and in many ways deletes bits too).

A good (or indeed very good) filter will cut off/filter noise in areas/frequencies in a sharp and relatively precise way. These “sharp” filters are usually more expensive to implement and one can argue whether the sound is better or worse.

It’s personal preference.

This is why some of us prefer the sound of using a 3rd party streamer/DAC feeding into the XLR/RCA analogue input of  the BL90/50s (digital >> analogue >> digital >> analogue). There are extra pathways in the chain (especially D/A and A/D) but the perception is “better” or more preferable sound.

But no one should be under the impression that what you hear from the loudspeaker = the sound recorded on the disc/file = what the Sound engineer intended. Its just as corrupted as an analogue signal.

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That will be the bit of code they copied out of the Eclipse directly into the Theatre.

Not a bug……its a feature Sir!

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I see this as junk tech.

100% certain of that with a Theatre below it.

I am also 100% certain that a (Beosound) Theatre only on a motorised floor stand (with no display at all) is about as stupid a look as you could get from Bang & Olufsen. (mounting a BS Edge, or Level on a motorised BS Theatre floor stand could be stupid-er but lets park these bad ideas to one side (indefinately)

The idea is more useful if a) it could be incorporated into a window – so no new space used at all and b) the backside was automatically blacked-out (to passers-by/neighbours when watching TV. The Theatre plays no part in my opinion in this sort of “entertainment” delivery.

The Theatre is kinda a chunky-monkey of a soundbar and the boat design tries to hide its volume somewhat (helped by a normal panel) . However, it is very much a prominent piece of premium furniture for the home begging to be displayed. Why, then you would try to make display part “semi-invisible” is unknown to me – especially when you could have all kinds of automated “reveals of a proper display at a fraction of the cost.

 

Edit: I think if they had displayed this type of panel with a revised Harmony design, then that could have potential? The TV works as it works but when in standby or sound mode, the turned-in panels of the Speakers with a transparent screen would make the Harmony far more discreet in the home against a wall?

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There is….but I’ve kinda forgotten. It’s in the pages and pages of the Theatre main thread. Probably mid-November-ish to say January.

it is something like this…..press the mute button 4-5 times very quickly…….

either that does it or……5 mute button followed by home or 5 mute button followed by settings.

when you have cracked that…..there is a toggle box to check/uncheck.

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Pro tip:

a lot of network enabled B&O products can be accessed by typifying in their home network IP address without going through the App. Some ASE products like Essence and A6 have the old style configuration pages like you said.  Mozart products are even more rudimentary but do allow updating and some network configuration. BL90, you can configure most of the product from there.

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If say 10% of B&Os  customers (hypothetically) provide 30% of their revenue, it makes sense to try and pump that segment in profitable or break-even times. That should grow the company.

The problem is when there is a decrease in discretionary spending by the other 90% who contribute the other 70% of B&Os revenue who feel financially pinched, perceive job risk, higher mortgage repayments etc….that segment can collapse very quickly, whereas building-up that 10% takes time even though the cost of purchase is effectively meaningless to them

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I would imagine its because its a (IIRC) a 30-year machine and needs some TLC. I dont know if you can get parts but a good electronics service person may be able to look at it.

I remember my first B&O perchase many many years ago (a BS Century in gothic Green). It was a ridiculously expensive TV back then. kudos that you have one now.

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I think their long term strategy will be something they regret. However, the current share price is probably a reflection of the current market sentiment in general.

I would expect, B&O is probably taking a lot of orders on their Ferrari range and Beolab8 so cashflow is probably ok in the short term but does not translate to immediate share price.

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Yann,

We don’t know what will work until you try it.

I would say you have a very complicated setup full of multigenerational products.  You also have one of the greatest pairs of audiophile quality loudspeakers ever devised by man. What you are suggesting in terms of setup, frankly is ok for casual non-focused listening. That includes the Core and to a lesser degree the Theatre as a high grade sound source. They are not up to the BL50s.

personally,  my proposal for the BC2 (CD I guess) may work and it’s worth testing. Unless I’m missing something, the Theatre can do just as good for other digital sources for casual listening. Otherwise, I would be buying an Auralic, Linn or Lumin to listen to stored FLAC or  streamed music like Qobuz or Tidal.

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Millemissen wrote:

You can not get anything but the sound of the cd player of the BC2 from the coax-out of the BC2/Master Unit. That is the reason to use the Core. If I understand the setup of Yann correct? MM

 

And after seeing Yanns wiring diagram…..I still think it is worth to try and  take the Core out and adding a Beolink IR to the BL50s. The BC2 acts as a 3rd Party Audio device and triggers the BL50 on digital signal.  You are still going to have to add a Beo4 to get any legacy product to play back into the BC2 through AUX – so there is the volume control. The NAS will play into the Theatre anyway (and sound better than the Core i’d bet through the BL50s).

From an economic point of view….If you have purchased a BS Core to do this and not try the IR option, try it. If it works, send the Core back to your Dealer and save £750!

 

 

 

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YannChris wrote:

Here is a summary of my setup:

And here’s me thinking my setup is complicated.

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Hi Yann,

If I perceive your setup correctly, assume the BL50 is the same config process as the BL90s then this is what I would try do do:-

1. Config the hardware as the photo below
2. Connect Legacy B&O to the BC2
3. Connect the BC2 to BL50 via Coax. Dont use the Core. I think it may confuse things for me.
4. Set the BL50 as per the photo below.
5. Buy or use a Beo4 to control the BC2 and Legacy B&O

Reasons to use a Beo4. The BR1 is ideal for BT enabled products but its quite a thumb work out to get it into IR/Beosound mode ans back out to use the Theatre. When Using the Beo4, I am not 100% whether the Coax will carry volume information. Rather than have yet another remote (the Halo is excellent for this, the Essence a bit laggy), an Beolink Eye into the BL50 may volume control for the Legacy B&O?

I think this solution possibly gets rid of the Core as I can only see it as a very expensive BT receiver for volume control via the BR1. However, the problem of controlling legacy B&O will remain.

On the BL50 setup, go into the configurator (or the BL90/50 app) and change the input priority. For my Auralics, I use XLR but I configure it subordinate to Powerlink and automatic selection. The XLR triggers on a voltage input, Coax and SP/dif trigger on digital signal. You need to put a kill-time (I think 60 seconds is minimum, otherwise, the BL50s may switch off and back on again with every track change or skip?)

This is what I would try. It may not work, it may not work to your priorities….

Edit: Just looking at the BL50 white paper, the BL50s have only one PL socket…which will be reserved for the Theatre PL in, (then DPL out to the Slave BL50).

It may not work or sound good but I wonder if you can use a B&O RJ45 splitter box (in reverse) i.e. connect the Theatre PL Fronts and the BC2 Powerlink output into the 2 RJ45 output sockets, and feed the RJ45 Input socket of the box into the BL50 PL input.

The Theatre still sends sound and volume control, the BC2 send on volume control (sound via the Coax/SPDif). This possible solution only gets rid of the Beolink Eye but it may cause unwanted problems in terms of volume control with the Theatre??

 

 

 

 

 

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I’m away from my BL90 settings at the moment.

i don’t know why you would connect the BS Core and BS2 to the BL50s when the Theatre can do everything those two can do. Your setting yourself up for an overly complicated system that may not control as well as you think.

if I had your gear…I’d keep the BS2 standalone and sell the Core or re task it to another Beolab pair somewhere.

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Update Beosound Theatre 3.2.1

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Essentially, hardwire each satellite mesh unit to your Hifi/TV equipment and allow the mesh to communicate between each other (very fast transfer rates) but communicate with your TV/Hifi via cable. Dont use the internal Wifi recievers in the HiFi/TV devices.

Each mesh box will have typically 2 to 3 LAN ports.

 

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I have an aging Zyxel Multy with 3 transmitters in my apartment. The Wi-Fi has to navigate 2floors in a compact apartment but one where all the walls are stone and over 1m thick.

As a mesh…it works flawlessly at 47mbs max.

My master mesh device…connected via cable to the router spans out to my HiFi gear via LAN cable. From there…a data switch feeds the Theatre and other gear.

The BL90s update wirelessly (those days may be over now) though I don’t use WISA for music playing with them. The bedrooms and downstairs office HiFi gear each have a Multy feeding them over air from the master unit.

Where I think an improvement may be made is to use the mesh boxes to transmit data between each other over distances you cannot wire together but then to wire your HiFi/tv gear directly the mesh boxes. ie don’t Wi-Fi from the mesh box to your HiFi directly use cable if you can.

 

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I’d go so far as if the App development team want to reach out to me…I’ll design you multiple page presentations on how the BeoApp and the Halo should look (obviously, your team will have to code it) that 90 to 95% of BW and other B&O oriented forum users would be happy with. it will take me 1 to 2 days max.

oh…and I will do it for free.

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I think its re-calculating all the sound parameters for the new duty.

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