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GOLD MemberStill on 2.3.4 here.
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
Thanks for clarifying – I’ll pass that on to my friend.
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
You use an external device for regular tv viewing with the bedroom BST, right?
Not the internal tuner of the LG?MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
1. I like it!
I found the button to turn off sound (should be off be default imo).
The single page option does not work correct with all documents.
Single page is handsome if you – like me – use an iPad and that way can have the text a bit higger.2. In order to decide which is best, I’d need to have both options…..for A/B comparison.
3. With some documents this might be the better way.
However, I’d prefer to have both options….if that is possible and not too much work for you.Thanks for trying out new things, Keith – much appreciated.
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
The Flatpanel test of the Theatre is now online on the danish site:
Test – Theatre – danishI suppose that it will soon be available in english on the Flatpanelshd.com site as well.
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
That should not be a problem.
There are lots of phono preamps that have one or more aux input ports in addition to the built-in Riaa amp (they are basicly a switch).In that case you do not need the ‘phono preamp/aka Riaa preamp’ that you mentioned in your first post.
Beware – but you probably know it – that some BG’s already have a Riaa preamp built in.
P.S.
On a side note – personally I would not bother about ‘tube’.
The Theatre has many options to ‘design’ the sound for the inputs.
You can make a sound setup just for the line input there pretty much to your likings.
However, that is just my opinion.MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
etype76 wrote:
‘I mean BG>phono preamp > preamplifier>theatre’If there already is a ‘phono preamp’, there will be no need for further preamping.
That is the way any BG must be setup to a line-input.I was just curious, if etype76 wanted something extra to manipulate the signal – some people want to add tube preamps and alike, when they want to listen to vinyl.
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
When I had my A8, it was running on wifi – so that should not be a problem.
The problem is your new router/the settings.
Hard to say anything, when one does not know the brand, the settings, the strenghts of the signal.After resetting it, I would try connecting it with a cable – that some times helps and can give you access to the menu for the wifi password.
Use the Bang & Olufsen app to set it up.MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
Great – we should be happy to be the costumers of such a company.
Not many would offer that kind of service for a buyer of a second hand product, that is long eol.Personally I haven’t heard of this before – but obviously they knew.
Have fun with your M5.
P.S.
This should be the latest/recent sw:
Software 2.1.50868 – Release date 31st October 2022MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
The Beosound 8 never had a wifi/network connection option.
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
Ich kann da nicht viel helfen.
Aber eine Anleitung findest du hier…..falls nicht schon bekannt:
https://www.manualslib.de/manual/18428/Detoma-C550-Aktiv.html#manual
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
The latest official release didn’t have any of these problems.
Unfortunately I can not say the same.
Mine behaves similar with the regular SW.
These issues are probably the reason why they haven’t released an official update yet (just the beta).
It is quite annoying – however, when it works (which really is most of the time) the setup is amazing….never thought my speaker setup could sound that good ?The worst thing is, that my wife tells me that she would not know what to do, when that happens and she is alone with the problem.
She keeps telling me that she liked our old Avant 1st gen more ?P.S.
Of course I have reported it, too.MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
I haven’t heard about this before – but it seems to be a fake M5, a copy.
Have you contacted the seller about this?
Could you post some pictures?
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
If you are just looking for switching between the tv and the projector……and you have all sources connected through the Theatre, I imagine that any modern 2.0 HDMI splitter will do the job.
Which switch from Atlona did you use?
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
Well – both are ASE products.
So, it must have something to do with the CC version.
I will ask my friend to look after the version in M5 respectively in M5.
Or do you know more?
What do you mean by does not support ‘any longer’?MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
So do I – or rather did!
It is one of the reasons that I hardly use chromecasting (for sound) anymore…..especially not for multirooming.But he does generally – so I assume that he has CC enabled.
I’ll pass on your offer.MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
Thanks Leo for noticing my question.
I will have to ask him about this.
But since he has it working with 2 M3’s, I guess he (theoretically) knows how to set up.MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
That is a classical setup – I had it similar for many years.
The setup behaves as intended – you have two seperat amps/volume controls.
One in the BV and another in the 3500 to feed the linkroom….and therefore two independent volume controls.In case you add more MCL-based rooms, these will be dependent on each other, when you turn uo/down the volume there.
With a MCL2AV (and powered speakers/Beolabs) you then again would have a more independend volume control.
MM
Location: Flensborg————Danmark
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