[Millemis]

The Moz-DPL tech not only simplifies the setup, it also allows for way more speakers (= the newer BS) to be used in a multichannel setup.

And yes, we probably won’t see many speakers with analog PL in the future (the BL8 is maybe the last one).

Luckily the BS Theatre has analog PL’s allowing for the use of oldschool BL there.

If there will ever be a (entry level) new Stage-like soundbar, I suppose that that will only have support for wireless Moz-DPL.

Interesting future 😀

How about a Moz-DPL receiver for adding old Beolabs, just like there was a WiSA receiver 🤔

Or how about a headphone with support for Moz-DPL !

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Please note that they are talking about Wireless as well as about Wired Digital Powerlink.

There have been DPL ports (RJ45) on many speaker products for a while now.

I wonder if e.g. the BL90 can be used wired with the BS Theatre (which has a free network port) and this way provide a digital connection instead of the old analog PL?

Edit! I’ll have to correct myself – reading on the B&O Discord reveals, that the DPL version of the 90’s is not compatible with the new Mozart-based 😥

MM

 

 

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Try this

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

1: Generelly I would always use the newest ATV. In your case the HD version would do, if you can get one.
If  you would go for the newer 4K version, you have two choises…..one Wifi-only and one also with an etherner port (which is slightly more expensive).

2: Certainly, yes – the B&O PUC solution makes this possible.

3: I have no idea about the figures of power consumption. There is still a P.Mute function for the BV11.

4: No need for an aereal there! The ATV is hooked up via an HDMI cable (and the PUC cable) to the BV11 and configured….that is it.

5: The BV11 needs to be connected to the internet/home network in order to be able to download the right PUC table online. You can read a lot more in the guides on the B&O website. Please remember that you can connect external speakers in order to get a better audio experience.

In my opinion the BV11 is still a gorgeous tv – if it wasn’t for the new BS Theatre/LG-tv combo, that I now have, that would be my choise at home.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

The Beo4/joystick version will not help as long as the tv does not turn on.

Do you have the tv connected to the home network – if yes, please see, if it appears in the B&O app. Maybe it can be turned on from there?

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

This is basicly about piping ‘new/modern’ sources into an existing ML setup.

A clever solution, yes – but it seems to me that it comes 5 years too late, since a lot of  the B&O users already have converted to Network Linked products (NL was introduces more than 10 years ago). Or they have (as Severed… found other ways to do what they need.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Nowadays I (apart from a BSys 6500 set behind a Converter) have no more masterlinked products in my setup.

But – if I still had – I would gladly support this project….seems to be some cool products coming.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Please have a look here

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

@Mathias

Besorge dir einfach das PUC-kabel (die RJ45-version) – das ist die weitaus beste Lösung.

Wähle die neueste AppleTV-version, wenn du die Installation machst.

Die Beschreibung hier ist zwar mit einem anderen BV und die Menus können anders aussehen, aber der Vorgang bleibt gleich.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Hier anfangen und dann ‘runterscrollen zu PUC-tabellen.

Und dann dieses lesen

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

They probably think, that they are ridiculously expensive….and then choose simply to ignore them.

Did anyone of these visitors/workers ever ‘saw’ them in action?

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

If speakers/rooms are powered from the same unit (the Passive//ML/MCL Converter), all rooms should behave equally turning up/down the volume.

You are then controlling the amp, not the speakers in the individual rooms.

Just to confirm – which speakers are in the rooms? – passive boxes I suppose!

Also this delay box makes no sense – I would skip that and go directly to the ML distribution box.

(Maybe there was not a BV7, but a later, NL-based BV in the mix?)

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Deleted!

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Got the mail, too 👍

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

oli wrote:

…..end of files is cut by 5/6 seconds, a little bit annoying…)

=============

Wow – that would be a total dealbreaker for me.

I stick to my trusted Spotify Premium, which is pretty much well integrated in my setup. Plays albums gapless and can be distributed via Beolink and controlled within the B&O app respectively with the Beoremote.

And I have the native search function in the Spotify app – starting there and then switching to the B&O app is not a big problem.

However, if Tidal was working flawless in the B&O app, I could reconcider.

With my setup, for my use and for my hearing ability the 320 Ogg Vorbis quality, that Spotify offers, is ok for me.

P.S. If I want higher quality, I use Apple Music on the AppleTV/BS Theatre – for multichannel/Atmos music – and with my (wired) headphones.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Ja, sonst bekommst du ja kein Signal von den Surroundkanälen für die Sateliten vom BV9.

Der Sub an sich bekommt ein Sub-signal vom BV9.

So ist das BL14-set gemacht.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Ja, durchaus!

Der Sub muss aber mit 1: Subausgang, 2: Surroundausgang verbunden sein und beides im Menu der BV9 konfiguriert werden.

Wie immer mit Subs…..die Plazierung im Raum ist wichtig.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Since the BL14 sub only has PL input ports, you have no option to have ‘the 8000’s coming off the sub’ – you will have to run it in parallel to the BL8000’s (with the cable that Steve can provide).

On the sub itself there is not much to configure. Please play with the settings e.g. corner, wall, free to get a decent result for your room. Also the placement in the room is important.

The BL14 (or the S8) is really best for connecting to a B&O tv, where you have much more control over the behaviour of the sub.

As a standalone (2 channel) setup the BL11 would be better suited in my humble opinion.

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Na dann, machbar aber fummelich…

Entweder vom optical out beim ATV und zu einem Konverter (optical to analog R/L), danach A/V 6 Eingang an der Seite vom BV7 benutzen und mit Camera aktivieren (muß im TV-menu konfiguriert werden/HDMI weiter benutzen wie jetzt)……

…..oder – vorausgesetzt, dass du an Tonwiedergabe via Airplay interessiert bist – einen seperaten Airplay-empfänger (Airport Express, Playmaker usw) ebenfalls an die Analog-eingänge an der Seite vom BV7.

 

Zur Inspiration…….Peter Pan hatte diese Konfiguration:

 

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Millemis]

Es wird über Masterlink keinen Ton von einer HDMI-quelle abgespielt….nur bei analog angeschlossenen Quellen geht das.

Du müßtest dann deine ATV-box zusätzlich über einen Analoganschluß verbinden….was ja bei den neueren ATV’s nicht (oder nur schwer) geht.

Der Grund weswegen DVD und DTV (wenn DTV einen eingebauten Digital-/Satelittuner ist) ist, daß diese eine interne Analogverbindung zusätzlich haben, die dann für die Masterlinkverteilung zu Verfügung steht.

 

MM

Location: Flensborg————Danmark

[Author]

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