[matador]

Bonjour Sylvain, Yes I’m French.

I dont know how do works Beolab 5 about digital connexion and so so I’ll talk as if they were like usual Beolabs connected by Powerlink (the DIN cable between the BeoSound 3200 and the speakers.

First, in the the B&O world from this era the BeoSound was just a source (Radio, CD player, Aux-In, sometimes cassette) and the power amp was built in the speakers. Thats why they’re called Beolabs – Active Speakers – instead of Beovox – Classic Passive Speakers – and that’s why you don’t see any box between the BS and the BLs.

For your setup you have three scenarios:

Number One: you dont use the BS at all meaning it’s just a gateway to volume control the speakers and plus your airplay receiver. You dont use CD or Radio. The you can simply get rid of it and use only the Playmaker/Essence. Both have Powerlink connection. In that case the playmaker will be better because it responds to IR commands (Volume, Sound Setup and switching sources when the Auto sense is temparemental.

Number Two: you use the BS CD or Radio mostly and your phone or deck sometimes. Then connect the Playmaker/Essence as a source for the BS A.AUX in. You will be in a configuation close to yours today, except that if you start the deck (given airplay streaming is off) it will be select automatically and go to tha BL throught the BS A.AUX. The little Added Bonus is that you can then press ‘PHONO’ Insted of ‘A.AUX’ on the BS: Absolutely useless but hey, isnt the moto of the brand “Attention to details”?

Number Three: you use Airplay mostly and BS CD, Radio or deck sometimes. Then connect the Beosound as a source for the Playmaker/Essence A.AUX in.
Now you can keep the BS off when streaming and just need to turn it on for Radio/CD or phono with your deck connected to the A.AUX of the BS.
If Airplay is not streaming, selecting any source on the BS3200 will trigger the PM and send the sound to the Beolabs.

If any of that make sens, think of what would suit you and we will advise you of cables, options and remotes subtelties to have it working flawlessly.

By the way I use a similar configuration with Playmaker, a Beosound 9000 instead of 3200, Beolabs 8000 instead of 5 and a record player.

Good luck.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

Not BV6-22 but I’ve got a BV6-26 (actually a BC6-26).
I’ve also around the house BL4000, BL8000, BL6000 and some third party Airplay speakers.
Between all, best and amazingly sounding to my ears are: ex-æquo BL4000 and BC6 and all the rest far after.

Now I believe BV22 and BV26 have different speaker setup (one way vs two way) but anyway, what I want to say is those thing have to be seriously considered. And also they could be very usefull for more that just sound.

Hope this helps.

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

Find yourself a Playmaker or Beosound Essence MK1, both cheap second hand.

In a nutshell it’s a B&O airport express like device with added Line-In terminals with auto sense switch-on.

It will autodetect the source between Airplay and your deck and will avoid you the manual switcher.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I’d like to add tha I’ve some Beo 4 that exeperience similar issue: not reverting to one way of course, but stopping to work after some time. Dont know if it could be related.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you Steffen,

I use Ladda batteries: I like to keep it all “nothern”!

And I’ve add aluminium foil pads to secure the contacts.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

I’m not an IT specialist but have experienced some of issues like yours more or less. So whatever I said could be stupid or not.

What I would do would be to disconnect some items: All but the 8’s or “crescendo” just to check that it’s a problem related to the Beolab network connection or just what I would call “broadband pumping” – too many clients on one network.

Then, if the 8’s success in a stable connection, I would try to give everybody a Static IP and wire whatever coud be wired.

Last thing I would do is carefully access the wi-fi Mesh network; I’ve seen Airplay speakers just next to a relay connecting by default to one that is two rooms away, thus making the connection instable.

Hope this helps.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

Maybe worth checking the A.AUX jumper plug? Continuity may be broken on one side.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

It’s like I wanted to start the same topic but didn’t dare to.
So all respect to the OP and sincerely merry christmas to everyone here.

M.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Then this how it ends so far…

I specify I’m using a Beolink 5000.

BS9000 in A.Opt1 (IR control enabled).
Playmaker in A.Opt4 (needs “Link” button prefix).

Pros:
Full IR control on the 9000 allowing to control CD and select sources like radio (I’ve discover the very fancy RDS display with song names, etc…), but also and most important, “Phono” that allows me to open the path to the BG4002 and enjoying the “Phono” display…

Allows me to get rid of the external source selector I used to use to switch the line in from the Playmaker between BG and BS.

The “+link” gymnastic to control the PM needs a little training but doesn’t seems like intolerable: I don’t change volume every second, and when you add “+link”, the device seems to remenber it for a few time so volume control often do not even require that sequence.

Full standby works with a long press, whatever the whatever.

Cons:
Sometimes I need to read again this post to understand how all this really works.
(Edit to add cons) Sometimes the Beolink 5000 loose the one way setting and, messing with the limits, its annoying.

(Cable management in progress)

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

When Laser problems, first always check in the technical datasheet that your’s is a genuine kyber crystal. Sometimes it may ruin your CD but it is well know to last long – Like 6 or 10 iterations plus spin-offs.

More seriously, if your CD lens is one of the common ones – Meaning 20$ on the bay – don’t bother but be ready to try one or two before the right one comes. All details on BW II or there.

And in any cases, try the “deep clean method” widely discussed in our colums.
It does not work everytime but has a fair amount of success.

Finally, in my experience, the weak link in a CD mechanism is the lens, so CD not spinning, no motor noise, etc… Is in most case due to laser fault.
Someone did once explain me the full CD start sequence and it did make sense.

Clean or change the lens.

Good luck.

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thank you to the Men In Black Boxes Team!

I’d like to not add another box to the setup. It already has a Beolink passive that drives Beovox C-40 in the back from the Playmaker Powerlink out.

The less bad option would have been using a Beo4 to command the 9000 and the Playmaker in Option 4, not the more convenient but at least just one remote.
The problem is that I dont use Beo4, I use a Beolink 5000 I find nicer.

Another solution would be a fine programming of a Beo6 but I keep that for later.

Thanks again to you both.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

When in A.Opt 4, does all command  need “Link” pressed before or do some commands like Volume and Mute work as usual?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Well.

Here is the setup:

Playmaker. Receiving Airplay broadcast and BS9000 into Aux.in.

Playmaker must be the main IR controlled device because my phone keeps corrupting airplay reception and also because autosense don’t work that well.

But then A.Aux or any audio command like CD to select the line IN of the PM also select that source on the 9000 making impossible to select Line IN in the PM and CD on the 9000.

So in short, I’d like to be able to select independently PM Line.IN, PM Airplay, BS Sources at least CD and AUX.*

An Idea Somebody?

Thanks in advance.

*Because 75% of the time music is Airplay, I’d rather not to have the PM as a slave for the BS Implying that tha BS has to be on everytime.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Guy.

SW 2.0.

A.Option setting to 4 does not work : 1,2 & 5 or 6 do work.

I’ve always wonder how those kind of detail could be relavnt for anyone. Now I know!

Thanks Guy.

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi alls,

Just to confirm that the PCB14 in Beosound 9000 MK2 indeed looks like the picture above.

After replacing both 22 microfarad SMD capacitors with regular ones, the IR board calme back to life.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Congratulations,

Every single new owner of a pair of Beolab 18 (the whole pair) should have a song in his name.

I’d like to have a song in my name!

Congrats again.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Don’t know what you mean by “poorly fitted” but what pushed me to design this clamps was that the ones on the market have a bulgy look, too round, too thick, too ‘not elegant’. So I tried to reduce the arc of the grid as much as i can.

In the first post you have have a top view and also the template for the cardboard top plate that should give you an idea of the whole render.

Maybe it can answer your question.

Cheers.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

A power failure of a Beosound 9000 is my worst nigthmare about this unit I pretend to know a little bit though.

For anyone to help you better, what mark is the 9000: some do have a power switch and it may be the easier place to start.

PS: to your other enquirie about the french branch, Yes it do exist but the main action is there in the internationals threads. Nowadays with the integrated traduction tolls it should be easier for anyone to follow. Tell this to your french mate. By the way, I’ve pushed a lot of french people to this forum about the Beolab 8000 clamps to make wooden frets. Maybe your friend is one of them?

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

How much I wish it was the same thing to remotely control or even just monitor iTunes from a mac to another…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

More likely a “close to death” stylus…

Location: Paris France

[Author]

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