[matador]

Ignorant and dumb thinking, okay?

0 – Should you have to drill out the screw, it looks like there is room for a bigger screw so you should be okay.
1 – Yes that should be possible and you have nothing to loose.
2 – I’ve seen this part on ebay or any classified ads many times; As usual with indecent prices…
If not, the lower hinge is not as complicated as the top one: it’s just… a hinge. So even if you break it you may be able to replicate it with 3D printing or even a good woodwork from hardwood, not to mention actual metal CNC.
3 – I think MK3 laser are difficult to source. But you should try a deep clean procedure first. If it doesn’t work then it may me a little less cheap.
I’ve successfully replace a MK3 laser with a BS3000 MK1 one. BS3000 MK1 are prone to fry their IC quite fast sot you can find them cheap “sometimes”.
I remember a member from BWII – Maybe Keith – told us about a common Marantz CD player that use the same mech, but my memory is fuzzy.

If  this is becoming too difficult, I suggest you “unglue” the glass door to ease your work: this is something more easy to fix than a broken glass.

In all case BS9000 have to be repaired – as we used to say in France – “Whatever the costs”.

Good luck.

 

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

I’m not good at physics but would’nt heating the screw make it expand? Would’nt you heat the piece where the screw goes?.

If that piece in in plastic as told by B&O Orlando (I’ve knocked at mine and it may be possible) just an Hairdryer flow should work.

Let us know…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thats a good thing!

Please keep track of the battery you’ve ordered on ebay and let us know how they work.

It’s always a problem to source good batteries for this remote.

If you’re handy with photoshop, I must have posted a script somewhere on BWII to make full screen pictures if you fancy.

Cheers.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

I can’t remember if a totally dead battery will prevent the remote to start when on the dock: I believe no.

Anyway, you will find a lot of litteratue on pseudo-dead Beo6 on BWII especially from founder member Keith Saunders, Member Heinrik (can’t remember his nickname) and myself.

The general rule is that if your Beo6 wasn’t crushed by a trailer running on it, it may still work.

Two difficulties, one of them being quite funny though:
– Find a reliable battery is a lottery,
– Programming is a whole (not so complicated) knowledge to learn, but once you’re used to it, you can do marvels with only one touch.

Everything is on the forum.

Good luck.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

I Agree, 6000 are classics and I’m close to rather like 6000 over 8000’s.

Beware with 6002 that are know to sound more crisp (cold/metallic?) than 6000 and in all case be sur to check the speaker surronds that are prone to disintegration.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

If you’re ready to put the TV on the floor, I would suggest do make a simple easel stand made of wood cut in shape like the stands to display platters.
Something like this more or less:

If you like the BV on a stand, then I believe the back of the set is flat, right? You could bolt any piece pf wood or sheet of thick metal and the bolt on that sheet any Vesa clamp to accomodate any stand you like.

Alternatively, the original easel stand should not be that hard to replicate: I don’t know how the front feet go into the set but if they are screwed it should be easy to made them DIY and for the back leg, see above.

Show us when you’re done!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Thanks Leon, thats All I need.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Ah ok, Sorry – My bad english.

Yes the slats the clamps are design for in the first place have to be 4mm wide. They can be easily found here in europe at Leroy Merlin.
Seems that in other part of the world, 5 mm thick is more “standard”.

I think somebody worked on my design to accomodate it with 5mm wide slats.
If this is the problem, here is the solution: download the right clamps for the slats available in your country.

If it’s a problem about sourcing them, I just can recommend to go Google. And also read the specific topic in detail: a lot of menbers have tried it from many country so maybe hints are here and there.

About quality: I used cheap fir (christmas tree), no varnish, no oil, raw fir. They haven’t moved for maybe 2 or 3 years now so you have headroom for quality.

 

 

 

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Laser fault.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Last time I had a silent channel it was from the large output capacitors.

Should it happen again, i would start there.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

So much memories back…

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

If you struggle to find them I would suggest to do them yourself: cheap, funny and you can choose your shade of red.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi,

Is the CD that doesn’t spin at all or the sledge that does not move from place to place?

If the laser eye is faulty, it will trigger all sort of weird behaviors that  will be cured with the laser working again.

From memory, yes it should be CDM 12.4 – the cheap one you can easily find.

Good luck.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hi Jonathan,

You should refine your search skills !    🙂

Jonathan McCall wrote:

Does anyone know of a decent source for them ?

The answer is “yes, nearby”!

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Beolink 5000.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Hej,

Just for the fun of it: why?

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Check suspension on the other side speaker: maybe if you replace one woofer but not the other insignificant discrepanthy have become significant.

If you replaced both, it just may be a loose connection.

Also, dumb assumption but you know sometimes, check Balance settings.

Low chances it will be the ML plug.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

MarioA wrote:

(I was considering buying one)

Me too I was, that way breaking my rule that said “Never use something that rely on any online account and can’t be used by itself”.
Very close I was.

I’m back to my rule now – Thank you this thread!

And for anyone trying to justify the BeoBug, I’d like to add that B&O knows very well (at least since the Playmaker) software is a weekness and nevertheless, they’re still selling their connected products at an unbeliveable pricetag, with no other aftersale service than “your request has been approved and it will be processed as soon as we can. Thank you for your patience.”

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Since the round remote is IR and both devices can be controlled by a Beo 4, I would assume that the remote uses usual B&O IR commands.
Therefor both remotes would be the same and allow at least volume control to Audio devices.

Location: Paris France

[matador]

Maybe a hint,

Because of my setup (two Beosound Daisy-chained) and mu usage (once one, once the second, once both…) I need to fiddle with the “LINK” prefix key.
Sometimes when I need to shut all down I make a long press on the “Stand-by” key that turn all off.

I wonder if this do not make the remote revert to two way mode., because to change the mode, process say you must turn off the remote with a long press on “STBY”.) barely similar to taking the batteries out and in the remote.

Location: Paris France

[Author]

Posts