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Beolink 5000.

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Hej,

Just for the fun of it: why?

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Check suspension on the other side speaker: maybe if you replace one woofer but not the other insignificant discrepanthy have become significant.

If you replaced both, it just may be a loose connection.

Also, dumb assumption but you know sometimes, check Balance settings.

Low chances it will be the ML plug.

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MarioA wrote:

(I was considering buying one)

Me too I was, that way breaking my rule that said “Never use something that rely on any online account and can’t be used by itself”.
Very close I was.

I’m back to my rule now – Thank you this thread!

And for anyone trying to justify the BeoBug, I’d like to add that B&O knows very well (at least since the Playmaker) software is a weekness and nevertheless, they’re still selling their connected products at an unbeliveable pricetag, with no other aftersale service than “your request has been approved and it will be processed as soon as we can. Thank you for your patience.”

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Since the round remote is IR and both devices can be controlled by a Beo 4, I would assume that the remote uses usual B&O IR commands.
Therefor both remotes would be the same and allow at least volume control to Audio devices.

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Maybe a hint,

Because of my setup (two Beosound Daisy-chained) and mu usage (once one, once the second, once both…) I need to fiddle with the “LINK” prefix key.
Sometimes when I need to shut all down I make a long press on the “Stand-by” key that turn all off.

I wonder if this do not make the remote revert to two way mode., because to change the mode, process say you must turn off the remote with a long press on “STBY”.) barely similar to taking the batteries out and in the remote.

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Bonjour Sylvain,

In the international part of the forum, the rule is to keep messages in English for everyone to understand and be able to help.

The message from MM made me realize than I dont know the BL5 that I use to consider as Classic Beolab but seems to no be.
Then you should take all I say with caution and maybe seek for a second advice.

Yes today, as in the Usual B&O world, speakers are turned on by the source: there is specific trigger signal in the Powerlink connection that clics-in the Beolabs.
Some Beolabs have a line-in connection with auto sense that detects sound, turn on the speaker and turn it off after some minutes of silence.

Also, Beolab 5 being a tremedous pieces, I would really take care to what I’m sending it to. Of course, the Playmaker is not an Hi-quality device but it is at least B&O.

Maybe you can also have a look at the Beosound Core, I think it has Line in.

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Keith Yarham wrote:

is it me?

Short answer: No, it’s not.

Long answer: it may depends from the kind of 8000 you have – Mk I, II, II.5, III or even 8002. I think I have MK II and I’ve always been dissapointed compared to 4000 or even the Beoplay A1!

 

 

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Glitch wrote:

My personal preference is to have anechoic furniture and wear one of these when listening to music. 😉 Seriously though, if your equipment/music elicits a physical (goosebumps) or emotional (happy or sad feelings) response, then it is doing its job. Glitch

Link please…

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Have you tried with or without? What do you think?

Beograms 12XX had removable lid without hinges, actually the same lid that was use on the Beocord Open Reel tape players.
Those Beograms are actually and really nicer without cover than with.

I really would not bother about this. But I’m curious to read other member’s advice.

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Hi Giorgone,

With all due respect, to people that understand and hear better than me, that kind of question always make me smile.

open lids act as a resonance trap that can negatively affect sound quality.

Yes maybe, but what about the mileage of the tip? will it “never be the same again” once it has touched the record?
And what about the reflecting power of any frame in the room? Not talking about the density of the concrete your house is made of…
And your lacation on any tectonic plate. Doesn’t even your presence in the room affect the acoustical flow of the soundwaves?

Just listen to the music and let the audiophiles make their things.

I, by the way, listen with the lid open, just because it’s a beautifull deck that has to be seen spinning.

Regards

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Hi,

All below given your network is 2.4 Ghz and not limited at 5 Ghz.

I could be wrong but as much as the WiFi is really unreliable on those things, I believe the electronics are quite strong. I would advocate for a software error.

First thing I would try is to check the Playmaker shows up on the network when wired. You can use any tool built in on your system, any command line or any utilities around (Who’s on my WIFI, IP Scanner,…). If it shows up you’ll get the IP adress and you’ll be able to connect to it wired. That will tell you your Playmaker is working. Next you’ll be able to select a wireless network – While still wired – in the dedicated page. If no network shows up it’s maybe the wifi part of he PM. If it can see networks, and let’s say none of yours, the problem is in your setup.

All this given your network is 2.4 Ghz and not limited at 5 Ghz. 5 Ghz wifi is always complicated with old devices.

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Read the whole thread, there is something somewhere about scaling the parts.

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Bonjour Sylvain, Yes I’m French.

I dont know how do works Beolab 5 about digital connexion and so so I’ll talk as if they were like usual Beolabs connected by Powerlink (the DIN cable between the BeoSound 3200 and the speakers.

First, in the the B&O world from this era the BeoSound was just a source (Radio, CD player, Aux-In, sometimes cassette) and the power amp was built in the speakers. Thats why they’re called Beolabs – Active Speakers – instead of Beovox – Classic Passive Speakers – and that’s why you don’t see any box between the BS and the BLs.

For your setup you have three scenarios:

Number One: you dont use the BS at all meaning it’s just a gateway to volume control the speakers and plus your airplay receiver. You dont use CD or Radio. The you can simply get rid of it and use only the Playmaker/Essence. Both have Powerlink connection. In that case the playmaker will be better because it responds to IR commands (Volume, Sound Setup and switching sources when the Auto sense is temparemental.

Number Two: you use the BS CD or Radio mostly and your phone or deck sometimes. Then connect the Playmaker/Essence as a source for the BS A.AUX in. You will be in a configuation close to yours today, except that if you start the deck (given airplay streaming is off) it will be select automatically and go to tha BL throught the BS A.AUX. The little Added Bonus is that you can then press ‘PHONO’ Insted of ‘A.AUX’ on the BS: Absolutely useless but hey, isnt the moto of the brand “Attention to details”?

Number Three: you use Airplay mostly and BS CD, Radio or deck sometimes. Then connect the Beosound as a source for the Playmaker/Essence A.AUX in.
Now you can keep the BS off when streaming and just need to turn it on for Radio/CD or phono with your deck connected to the A.AUX of the BS.
If Airplay is not streaming, selecting any source on the BS3200 will trigger the PM and send the sound to the Beolabs.

If any of that make sens, think of what would suit you and we will advise you of cables, options and remotes subtelties to have it working flawlessly.

By the way I use a similar configuration with Playmaker, a Beosound 9000 instead of 3200, Beolabs 8000 instead of 5 and a record player.

Good luck.

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Hi,

Not BV6-22 but I’ve got a BV6-26 (actually a BC6-26).
I’ve also around the house BL4000, BL8000, BL6000 and some third party Airplay speakers.
Between all, best and amazingly sounding to my ears are: ex-æquo BL4000 and BC6 and all the rest far after.

Now I believe BV22 and BV26 have different speaker setup (one way vs two way) but anyway, what I want to say is those thing have to be seriously considered. And also they could be very usefull for more that just sound.

Hope this helps.

 

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Hi,

Find yourself a Playmaker or Beosound Essence MK1, both cheap second hand.

In a nutshell it’s a B&O airport express like device with added Line-In terminals with auto sense switch-on.

It will autodetect the source between Airplay and your deck and will avoid you the manual switcher.

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I’d like to add tha I’ve some Beo 4 that exeperience similar issue: not reverting to one way of course, but stopping to work after some time. Dont know if it could be related.

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Thank you Steffen,

I use Ladda batteries: I like to keep it all “nothern”!

And I’ve add aluminium foil pads to secure the contacts.

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Hi,

I’m not an IT specialist but have experienced some of issues like yours more or less. So whatever I said could be stupid or not.

What I would do would be to disconnect some items: All but the 8’s or “crescendo” just to check that it’s a problem related to the Beolab network connection or just what I would call “broadband pumping” – too many clients on one network.

Then, if the 8’s success in a stable connection, I would try to give everybody a Static IP and wire whatever coud be wired.

Last thing I would do is carefully access the wi-fi Mesh network; I’ve seen Airplay speakers just next to a relay connecting by default to one that is two rooms away, thus making the connection instable.

Hope this helps.

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Hi,

Maybe worth checking the A.AUX jumper plug? Continuity may be broken on one side.

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