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Once again, I don’t seem to be the target audience for the latest offerings. 😉 (However, I really like the cabinet)
The shots on that page are CGI. Maybe they wait for the “target audience” to exist before launching the actual recreation!
Location: Paris FranceModeratorWhat if?…
You know, I’ve always considered myself some kind of dopplegenger to MM for whatever reason…
Mostly because when the undeafendable is undeafendable he always says: “I know the mens, they’re not what you think…”What I want to (uncertainly) point out is: what if, in B&O HQ, was some young enthusiast and ideologic person thinking: “OK, let’s ignite passion for that thing through whealthy “ignorant” people” and let’s passionate, historical customers deal with it “at their level”.
Do really B&O ignore that we’re all able to do the same ? Do they use the fact that “some” people would want to bother with our “tricks” in exchange for some dollars ?
Honeslty, my first take was: “ok, let’s find some BG’s second hand around…”
And never liked the tapered cover. But now…
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Location: Paris FranceModeratorIt may work.
A good idea for sure.
When I’ll have time I may try to design one myself.
But (disclamer: I don’t know anything about 3D printing) objects I’ve printed so far were too much laminated (they will eventually delaminate) or too stiff to allow the cover to bend enough to open.
But again I don’t know about PLA, PPL, LPO and any fancy name plastic wires have!
Location: Paris FranceModeratorGuys,
Just wanted to say to everyone and specially to Mark, that I’m sorry to be unable to be with you.
Godspeed (and bring back papers!)
Love.
M.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi, and welcome to Beoworld,
I may be Old Fashioned but I like messages or at least the first one to start with “Hi” and end with ‘Thank you”… Anyway.
Between all the guys who did regret to buy a BS9000, I bet I’m the winner: mine did just not have the main motor and had a big empty hole instead.
And you know what? It’s now running fine everyday without any flaw. So there is hope for yours.BS 9000 is a complex unit but 95% of the time easely and highly serviceable.
The unit is delivered without remote: you must find one, usually a BEO4. They can be a little bit expensive but sometimes you can find it at a good price.
When you have it it will command any B&O stuff you’ll have from TV to lights.The unit will need three basic point of attention:
Laser eye: If the laser is not working properly, the unit will do a lot of crazy stuffs. Depending of the MK of your BS9000 sourcing a new eye can or cannot be difficult (See a recent thread on this here on BW).
Mechanical adjustments:
Things like height of the lid, height of the sledge, Laser orientation screws must be carefully checked. Read the set-up manual.
Test Mode:
Once the unit is mechanically adjusted you should perform a full test mode that will give you clear answers on what works and what not.
If the laser is fine and the unit is OK, it will also calibrate the sledge for disc position and orientation. Note you’ll need a remote to perform test modes. See the service manual for Details.A lot of topics on BW I, II and current about the BS9000 so no doubt you’ll find answers to all your question.
Good luck and keep us informed.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorMy experience FWIW…
Removing this part is not easy. To me it belong to the “you must go beyond when you believe you will break it” category.
Pulling it by fiddling with it, slowly and until you “understand” the resistance of the part was my solution. Try it.Then… Removing the platter will of course help you in servicing the deck, but most of the work take place from below.
So depending on what you need to take care of it will not be the big deal.That’s B&O Magic…
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi Alls,
My two cents expertise…
If you do drag, like me, and old setup, using it to the bones, meaning old Ios, Old MacOS, and old 2.4 Ghz wifi, you should be fine.
If not, given your wifi is 2.4 compatible, the integrated web server should make it. There is no bonus trying to use the B&O App, it is just useless.
So set it up with the web server and forget it.Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi alls,
That thread made me dust out my BC1200. A pleasure, thank you.
I’ve got the same problem: one track is softer than the other – visible from the VU-meters – and of course a loud background noise.
Wherever this thread goes, I’m interested!
Location: Paris FranceModeratorBad laser most likely.
Search on Beoworld – this one and older iterations – everything is told. (Spoiler : MKIII is not the easiest case.)
Try “deep cleaning”, details on BW.AFAIK, lasers do aged even when not used.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi,
Beolab 3500 maybe the most frustrating Beolab speaker around ! Tremedous form factor, acceptable sound, very fair price nowadays, but…
Unless you use it in a Masterlink network as it was inteded to or trick it with solutions ranging from a “simple” Beolink converter (making it less “form factor convenient” to cumbersome IR remote keys sequences, it will be – Argh, it hurts to say it – pretty useless.
Sorry for you.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi,
Playmaker will turn on Powerlink connected speakers but that’s all.
If the BS9000 is in standby, it will not wake up from an incoming signal.
About the auto-sense of the Playmaker when driving Beolabs, just know it can be a little bit temperamental.
Hope this helps.
Location: Paris France31 March 2025 at 15:07 in reply to: Beosound 9000 glass door appears to sit too low/push down #64794ModeratorCheck service manual (available here for silver and gold members) for glass door height/angle adjusment.
Two Screws, easy work.Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi Martin and welcome to Beoworld.
If you’re between the 1202 and 1203, it’s certainly because you like the dot platter like I do. Just know that the 3000 with a more common but better platter is from the same family.
1203 is a cheap 1202 indeed. As far as I know and I can tell (I own both), it’s mostly about the base that is die-cast and heavy in the 1202 and just a sheet of steel, therefore lighter, in the 1203. The result is on stability and shock insulation, better in the 1202.
About the change of capacitors: Beograms from that serie have very little electronics. It’s basically power to motor and Diamond to line-out (two separate circuit). If capacitors have been replaced, I don’t believe it will make any night and day difference or anything that can’t be made by anybody out there. So to me not a big lever.
What’s important and a little bit more complicated is the overhaul of the motor that implies tearing it appart and lubricating it with a special procedure (oil infusion of the sinter bronze bearings). That will make a difference If and only IF it has been well made and with the right oil. Not that easy. And also the pulley (can’t remenber the right name) that can be noisy if the rubber has hardened.
So in a nutshell and given you can’t try any of the decks. If you can talk to the seller and ask a few question about the restauration procedure and you feel confident after a little bit of reading here on BW, on what he says, go for it whatever deck it is.
If you feel like work on it by yourself, go for the best aesthetical condition deck. Work will be the same on both decks.
Also make sure all the commands (lift, turn, 33, 45,…) work well. Its a delicate system and sometimes its complicated.
I can’t remember if they are exactly the same or they differ sligthly but anyway they need to be carefully inspected.All this from memory. No doubt people will soon confirm or correct.
Beautiful decks alls.
Good luck.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorNot withstanding that this website is now unrecognisable from just a few days ago, (what happened?) I am in a situation where I thought I knew B&O inside out?
Hi,
Sorry because I mays have missed something, but to me the website looks like it looks since a long time, no?
Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi,
Foam Replacement set are ridiculously cheap compared to B&O prices standards, so don’ bother with serial numbers: open the speakers and if black, order the parts.
The most complicated step is to find a dealer who sells after sales parts (meaning “not only interested in selling a too much expensive TV set to you).
But providing part number and with a sweet chit-chat talking it’s in the possible domain!Alternativly they are blueprints available to download for silver and gold members, to make your own pads.
From there, many DIY topics on Beoworld about the “how to”.
Good luck.
Location: Paris FranceModeratorSomething important to specify when talking about (third-party) battery reliability is how the remote is configured:
Some non B&O commands (namely Apple Remote IR commands) drain two of my Beo6 in five to ten clicks – Power Off, reboot, charge warning.
Same remotes last longer if I stay in the “Like no Other” universe.Location: Paris FranceModeratorHi Gregg,
3.2 mm should work. The only difference I may foresee is the space between the blades larger than the blades themselves. I dont know how it would affect the whole look.
The fret doesnt have to be strong or stiff. It sleep on the speaker and you dont really move it after that.
Now if the wood tends to bend or not be perfectly right, you can just add more middle clamps.Location: Paris FranceModerator“Dead Beo 6” is a pure construct of the mind. That doesnt’ exist IRL.
Location: Paris France2 March 2025 at 19:01 in reply to: BeoSound 9000: Torx screw in glass-door hinge stuck ? > SOLVED #64277ModeratorHi Kolfmaker,
Happy it was solved but you shouldn’t thank me, because I’m so stupid and so blind: of course thoses are not Torx but Allen screw. I’ve taken out those so many time it should have ring a bell immediatly.
Anyway, the door is off, thats what matters.
Location: Paris FranceModerator… And the Playmaker if you want to stream from a computer.
Location: Paris France -
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