[matador]

Then this how it ends so far…

I specify I’m using a Beolink 5000.

BS9000 in A.Opt1 (IR control enabled).
Playmaker in A.Opt4 (needs “Link” button prefix).

Pros:
Full IR control on the 9000 allowing to control CD and select sources like radio (I’ve discover the very fancy RDS display with song names, etc…), but also and most important, “Phono” that allows me to open the path to the BG4002 and enjoying the “Phono” display…

Allows me to get rid of the external source selector I used to use to switch the line in from the Playmaker between BG and BS.

The “+link” gymnastic to control the PM needs a little training but doesn’t seems like intolerable: I don’t change volume every second, and when you add “+link”, the device seems to remenber it for a few time so volume control often do not even require that sequence.

Full standby works with a long press, whatever the whatever.

Cons:
Sometimes I need to read again this post to understand how all this really works.
(Edit to add cons) Sometimes the Beolink 5000 loose the one way setting and, messing with the limits, its annoying.

(Cable management in progress)

 

[matador]

When Laser problems, first always check in the technical datasheet that your’s is a genuine kyber crystal. Sometimes it may ruin your CD but it is well know to last long – Like 6 or 10 iterations plus spin-offs.

More seriously, if your CD lens is one of the common ones – Meaning 20$ on the bay – don’t bother but be ready to try one or two before the right one comes. All details on BW II or there.

And in any cases, try the “deep clean method” widely discussed in our colums.
It does not work everytime but has a fair amount of success.

Finally, in my experience, the weak link in a CD mechanism is the lens, so CD not spinning, no motor noise, etc… Is in most case due to laser fault.
Someone did once explain me the full CD start sequence and it did make sense.

Clean or change the lens.

Good luck.

 

[matador]

Thank you to the Men In Black Boxes Team!

I’d like to not add another box to the setup. It already has a Beolink passive that drives Beovox C-40 in the back from the Playmaker Powerlink out.

The less bad option would have been using a Beo4 to command the 9000 and the Playmaker in Option 4, not the more convenient but at least just one remote.
The problem is that I dont use Beo4, I use a Beolink 5000 I find nicer.

Another solution would be a fine programming of a Beo6 but I keep that for later.

Thanks again to you both.

[matador]

When in A.Opt 4, does all command  need “Link” pressed before or do some commands like Volume and Mute work as usual?

[matador]

Well.

Here is the setup:

Playmaker. Receiving Airplay broadcast and BS9000 into Aux.in.

Playmaker must be the main IR controlled device because my phone keeps corrupting airplay reception and also because autosense don’t work that well.

But then A.Aux or any audio command like CD to select the line IN of the PM also select that source on the 9000 making impossible to select Line IN in the PM and CD on the 9000.

So in short, I’d like to be able to select independently PM Line.IN, PM Airplay, BS Sources at least CD and AUX.*

An Idea Somebody?

Thanks in advance.

*Because 75% of the time music is Airplay, I’d rather not to have the PM as a slave for the BS Implying that tha BS has to be on everytime.

[matador]

Hi Guy.

SW 2.0.

A.Option setting to 4 does not work : 1,2 & 5 or 6 do work.

I’ve always wonder how those kind of detail could be relavnt for anyone. Now I know!

Thanks Guy.

 

[matador]

Hi alls,

Just to confirm that the PCB14 in Beosound 9000 MK2 indeed looks like the picture above.

After replacing both 22 microfarad SMD capacitors with regular ones, the IR board calme back to life.

Thanks to everyone who helped.

• This reply was modified 1 week, 2 days ago by matador.

[matador]

Congratulations,

Every single new owner of a pair of Beolab 18 (the whole pair) should have a song in his name.

I’d like to have a song in my name!

Congrats again.

[matador]

Don’t know what you mean by “poorly fitted” but what pushed me to design this clamps was that the ones on the market have a bulgy look, too round, too thick, too ‘not elegant’. So I tried to reduce the arc of the grid as much as i can.

In the first post you have have a top view and also the template for the cardboard top plate that should give you an idea of the whole render.

Maybe it can answer your question.

Cheers.

[matador]

Hi,

A power failure of a Beosound 9000 is my worst nigthmare about this unit I pretend to know a little bit though.

For anyone to help you better, what mark is the 9000: some do have a power switch and it may be the easier place to start.

PS: to your other enquirie about the french branch, Yes it do exist but the main action is there in the internationals threads. Nowadays with the integrated traduction tolls it should be easier for anyone to follow. Tell this to your french mate. By the way, I’ve pushed a lot of french people to this forum about the Beolab 8000 clamps to make wooden frets. Maybe your friend is one of them?

 

[matador]

How much I wish it was the same thing to remotely control or even just monitor iTunes from a mac to another…

[matador]

More likely a “close to death” stylus…

[matador]

I like that kind of “attention to details”!

If it may be of any help, here you have the round and rounded square versions of the logo: it may help make it blend a little more…

(They look the same here because of the white background, but they are round and rounded square!)

 

[matador]

Hi and welcome to Beoworld,

Do you have sound from the headphone socket?

Do you have sound from the radio?

[matador]

Glitch wrote:

I think that the Beolab 50 is one of the best styled speakers that B&O has ever made.

I think nothing can compete with the visual refinement of the Beolab 18 or in a different way, the non-speaker neo-retro-futuristic look of the Beolab 5.
The Beolab 90 has for it the eye-catching, mind-wondering look but it cannot be called “beautiful” in my opinion.

The Beolab 50 looks more like a Dyson X Brabantia air conditionner even if I would gladely welcome a pair in my living-room (thing I wouldn’t do with the 28)…

 

[matador]

Got it as regular email.

[matador]

That is why I try to avoid “as much as I can” to rely on a third party provider of any kind: sonner or later business deals and stock market arrangement may left you on the side of the road because of any promised compatibility that is no longer on the agenda of the company.

Nothing more safe and efficient than a local storage full of files and Millemissen* as an algorythm to advice you on new content throught the “What are you listening right now” thread.

*Friendly and respectfull joke.

[matador]

I don’t have a spotify account so I’m unable to provide any link.

The first seconds of the first track of the album Re:member from Olafur Arnalds.

Also the very first note from the track First light from the album First light from Jonsi.

Both make the woofer vibrate.

[matador]

Hi Alls,

I joined the discussion since I share the same issue than KolfMAKER. Maybe I’ve already talked about that somewhere but in a nutshell my solution was to stick à little piece of soft foam between the fret and the surround of the scratching speaker. It must be a sacrilege but since I never listen very loud it did work to me for a while.

Now If there is any solution that do not involve tearing appart the woofer, I would be happy to hear it.

Today I noticed something that may help maybe: I dont need heavy level to make it happend. It will be very noticeable at low level in piano parts, like in some pieces of Olafur Arnalds. It is more like a vibration like if something was flapping on the cone but I’m not very good a describing that kind of noise.

Hope this helps.

 

[matador]

Breaking News (like if my last post brought me bad luck)…

The remote does’nt even last few hours nor even minutes. I used it today in Apple TV mode and after few clics both went dead.

I suspect this being related to the aTV IR command but I dont know how to tell for sure.

[Author]

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