[Mark-sf]

Check out the service manual either here as a Silver Member or at beomanuals.com. You need to open it from the top and you can find the endpoints on the large pulley and near the left of the tonearm base illustrated in the manual.

[Mark-sf]

In reality, dynamic speakers are only nominally 4 or 8  ohms. They vary their impedance with frequency. A manufacturer rates an amp’s power into a load. Therefore as the load goes from 8 to 4 an amp must deliver more current to support the voltage needed to drive the speaker. If the amp cannot its voltage will drop which reduces its watts. This just means if both an 8 and 4 ohm pair had the same sensitivity you could play the 8 ohm louder. Both will still work. Simply turn the volume down if you hear distortion from any speaker regardless of its rating.

[Mark-sf]

Can’t really comment on it without more details. However, for $75 it’s a steal no matter its condition. It will likely need an overhaul but there are plenty of parts such as belts, relays, caps, fuses, etc available.

[Mark-sf]

Welcome. It’s great you are trying to assist her. It appears she has a 3000 not a 4000. There are adjustments for both set down point and tracking force described in the service manual available online. I would first check on how clean the stylus is. That can be done with a magnifying glass. How comfortable are you with taking things apart and putting them back?

[Mark-sf]

Yes the E will work fine and trace better since it’s an elliptical shape versus the spherical of the S.

[Mark-sf]

Its conductivity is not functional since it’s used optically to be non-reflective for record edge detection.

[Mark-sf]

You need to adjust your speed as well.

[Mark-sf]

You need a Beogram with a built in preamp. See https://beoworld.org/article_view.asp?id=67 for a list.

[Mark-sf]

The easiest first check is to make sure your counterweight has not moved. Is the arm able to go down by adding more tracking force?

[Mark-sf]

Welcome to the forum! You can find the service manual online which describes testing for the detection signal. If you are not comfortable with soldering and desoldering I would fine someone that is. While replacing caps and relays is called for as a general restoration strategy nothing is harmed to wait for a failure if it’s working fine. You can even live with the detection issue if it’s not simply an adjustment.

[Mark-sf]

That paint is not conductive as it only needs to be non-reflective. I don’t have a specific recommendation as B&O never published this to my knowledge.

[Mark-sf]

A Beogram 1900 would be a less expensive option and still have the squared form factor and matching finish.

[Mark-sf]

Welcome! Your problem is likely the amp and not the turnable. Which amp do you have the speakers plugged into? Can you describe the nature of the noise (hum, hiss, thumps, etc)? Does it have a headphone jack you can try? If so do you hear the same noise?

[Mark-sf]

Dave, my recommendation regarding Sound-Smith was only for re-tipping the cartridge. Your other answers indicate the presence of potentially more than one problem. In your original post you stated that it stopped moving last week. Was it in regular use up to that point or had it been unused for a significant period of time? Before recommending a repair approach, since you’ve already been inside:

1. Do you have a VOM?

2. Do you have any soldering/desoldering experience or skills?

3. Have you ever used a circuit diagram?

If the above answer are all no, then your best bet would be 3rd-party repair. The Service Manual is online and it does not need to be repaired by a B&O service shop. Any reputable audio equipment technician should be able to fix this and they could even post here for guidance. However, you need to decide whether the cost of a re-tip plus such a repair is worth it to you versus selling it “for parts or repair” online? In yours condition they still go for $200-$300 assuming its cosmetic shape is good..

[Mark-sf]

The hardest part of a B&O repair is taking it apart so it goes back together!

[Mark-sf]

If putting such a weight on it is not disrupting its suspension and belt running location, then its suspension height is not correctly adjusted.  Such a weight requires readjustment to compensate. Non-suspended turntables such as direct drives do not have this requirement.  The WFGUI with a test record and the DIN filter should better reflect the true performance. If you get a good belt and everything is adjusted properly and still seeing W/F>.2 then I would suspect the motor bearings may need a new oill suffusion or replacment.

[Mark-sf]

First you should note that your phone is heavy relative to a record and this will negatively impact the WF test on most beograms due to their lightweight construction, floating suspension and low torque. To use that app you need to readjust the suspension so it’s free and level when the phone is centered over the spindle and that the belt is centered on the pulley and platter. You should also also make sure the motor pulley and platter edge are clean. Finally, unless you got the belt from a legitimate B&O parts site, I would suspect it.

[Mark-sf]

Your problem has nothing to do with the control panel switches. The problem is typically with the solenoid that raises the arm or the pivot point is gummed up. These should be disassembled, cleaned and aligned. You also may need to demagnetize the rod in the solenoid.

[Mark-sf]

Does the platter spin once the arm has moved towards the center? Does the arm respond to the cueing control when it has moved inward? Does the 33 speed adjust light illuminate?  Given its age, if the above answers are all no, then it’s likely the electrolytic capacitors need to be replaced as there is insufficient voltage. There may be additional issues but until power is restored one can’t say.

[Mark-sf]

I agree with B&O’s assessment as it could be either the tweeters or their amps or both depending on the nature of the failure. This can happen if played too loud for too long with a lot of high frequency content, a transient passed thru the system, or simply a part failed which can be age or heat related or simply an impurity that finally caused a failure. Bottom line is to have a B&O Service Center fix it as it definitely is worth fixing.

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