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Madskp
GOLD MemberIf they have a battery it is most likely soldered, so no easy removable, and might not affect these issues.
This might be a long shot:
On the BL3500 try to acces Menu + Menu + 0 + 9 + GO
It should say ML ON. If not try to change the value with up and down arrows and accept with go.
You might have allready have tried this (so sorry to ask this) try to check the volume level on the BL3500 and try to activate the mute function a couple of times
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberThe error 4 is called data collision in the service manual, meaning to much trafic on the ML system. That however does not seems plausible in your small setup, so I would advice to look at the cables first.
Does your network cable have metal shielded connectors? That is a requirment as the ground for the ML connection is going through that
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberA few thought. The BL3500 do have some testmodes to show if the ML connection is ok.
Menu + Menu + 0 + 2 + GO should give status for the ML connection. This will either show: ML OK, NO ML or an error number in the BL3500 display
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberOk good to know that it at least is something from Beoworld 😉
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberJust for info I have received ved a couple of emails like this since yesterday
It looks like it is from this forum, but update is not to find in the topic, and the link (that is also to Beosupport instead of Beoworld) leads to some kind of login page that does not look like Beoworld.
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD Memberok that was my best guess that it might be shorted through, thus keeping the 5V up.
Another thought is maybe the ML sense signal. I belive the Beolink Passive prioritise Masterlink over Powerlink
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberI would try to meassure if D306 is working correctly
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD Memberwhat about mute P200 pin 13?
on mine that goes low with powerlink startup signal.
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberOk I see. I might be worth to look if the mute signal from the Microcomputer changes when the Powerlink pin 1 is active (12V) and inactive (0V), and if it goes all the way to pin 9 on IC305
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberThis will probably have divided opinions.
After renovating quite a few Beolink 5000, my BL5K Brother in Arms and I have been working on a white version of a Beolink 5000 that B&O never produced.
This is number 2, judge for yourself!
/steffenGreat modyfication. I do like the concept although for me there seems to be something off with the color combination with the top plate. This can be due to the photo representation. Maybe it looks better in real life.
If one should do a comparison to the official whiteB&O remotes, the MCP 6500 has white background for the black button and the Beoremote one have the buttons so close that there is no background, so any comparison to what “it would look like” if it was an official product is difficult.
I also remember seeing a white Beolink 1000 once. Not sure if it was an official one, but I also think the top plate was white on that.
I however fully understand that you do not wan’t to change the top plate because of the Bang & Olufsen text.
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberI am a little confused here. Based on your earlier thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-passiv-always-on/#post-65711 I though that the issue was that the Beolink Passive was allways on, but now it sound like you can not get it to turn on after all. Am I misunderstanding something?
first with powerlink cable
Are you using af fully wired MK2 Powerlink cable? The Beolink passive is activated by 5V on pin 1 in the Powerlink cable and only the fully wired MK2 Powerlink cable has this as mentioned by Guy in this post in your earlier thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-passiv-always-on/#post-65687
then with masterlink still nothing
What have you connected to the Passive in this setup? With Masterlink connection it is intended to be used as a link room, thus you will need and IR eye connected to the Passive to turn it on. Also it might be nessecary to do some option settings with the remote on the BS4 and the Passive in this setup.
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberSounds bad. What about the carrige Mechanism will that still operate? Just tobtry to isolate the issue
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberJust a tip for searching archived forums. In my experience a google search starting with Beoworld and then the search topic will usually work better than the site search function
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberYou might wan’t to consider how to control the BC2.
For the connection types you are mentioning yourself you might need to first activate an input on the contour and the operate the BC2 either on it’s front panel or with the Beoremote one in IR mode (I have no experience with Beoremote One myself, so unsure about how the switching between bluetooth and IR works). This might be a little clunky user experience to operate.
A more user friendly approach might be to get a Beolink Converter NL/ML which can make the sources from the BC2 visible as sources for the Contour.
Not sure if operation of the DVD part can be done this way, but judging by your post it sound like a nice to have option.
Note that auto update does no longer work on the Beolink converters NL/ML, so if it does not have the latest software version you might need to get it updated by a B&O dealer to get full functionality.
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberNo experience in this kind of machinery other than my father had one we ocasionaly tried out when I was a kid.
However my memory told me that there was a thread about repair of these in the old forums, so her is a link to that thread. Hope it might be helpfull https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/18355.aspx?PageIndex=1
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberTry to look at page 14 here https://bangolufsenassistentgohe.blob.core.windows.net/manuals/APPS_AND_ACCESSORIES/BEOREMOTE_ONE/EN_1405_BeoRemoteOne_Online_Guide.pdf
that should explain how it is done with a Beoremote One
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD Memberwhich option settings would I need to set? Can I use a BeoRemote One IR for it?
If you arguing house the BC2 and the BL3500 in the same room the BC2 should be set to option 0 (no IR) to avoid double commands. If it has been used in a setup where the speakers were connected to a Beovision it might allready be in that option. You can try if you can activate it with a CD command.
The BL3500 should be in option 6 provided you do not have any B&O TV in the same room. If it has been previously been used in a linkroom it is probably allready set to that.
Having never used a Beoremote one I can’t tell you how it is done on that.
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberThat should work provided the correct option settings have been use previously.
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD Memberanybody who nows what the readings ( volts ) should be. maybe the microcomputer pcb 3
is faulty.
I have tried to open one of my passives and did some measurements to compare.
One important thing to note.The button on the front is not and on/off button but an off button. If I activate the passive from a B&O musicsystem via Powerlink I can press the button and turn the Passive off, but I cannot turn it on again with the button. On the front of mine it is also named OFF.
that is the problem , with only 220v connecet , it is on , the power up is high on p200 pin 8 , and when i connect 5v to
pin 1 on powerlink scoket , p200 pin 8 goes lowThis is also how mine reacts, so this should be normal behavior, and also how I think it should work based on the schematic.
p200 pin 1 is connecet to on/off switch when i press it it goes low and when
i relece it it goes high .it looks as it is the oppesit as it should be.The same reaction I see on mine. Also note my comment regarding the button function.
Location: DenmarkMadskp
GOLD MemberJust a few cents from me. I have a set of Beolab 4 sepakers and have an accespoint placed relativly close to one of them. If the distance between the accespoint and the speaker is to short (<5cm or so) the Speaker is beginning to make ticking noises. So these speakers are prone to some interference from other things. Btw. I am using original MK3 Powerlink cables (the thin ones).
Location: Denmark -
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