[Madskp]

This does sound weird. according to the user manual this should only happen when you do a long press:

Only other place I have found mention of shut-in the whole system of with a single press is in and older manual for the MCL system where you could make a solder connection inside it to get that behaviour. I have not seen mention of this for the ML system components.

Have you tried to power up the devices in different order to see if that affects the behaviour? Or do you maybe have an other IR eye you could try with?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Regarding BM-Link. The official website for the project is this http://www.odlund.se/bmlink/download.html

Newest release was developed for OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard, so might be hit and miss how much newer version it will work on.

I do not think that either the official Beoport software or BM link will show metadata. There was another project called Link player that maybe did show some metadata on some systems, but you might have to research that further searching on the archived forums. I believe there are threads about it on both of the two archived forums.

Linkplayer was, I believe developed as a paid software, so you would need a license key to make it work today, and that might also only work on older version of Mac OS.

For both BM-Link and Linkplayer they are using iTunes as the internal player on the Mac.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

B3OHACK3R wrote:

Congrats, really nice project! Well done!

Hey great to see you here on Beoworld again 🙂 try to take a look at TK’s threads about datalink, maybe something there you can chime in on.

beosthlm wrote:

General failures on the BS5/BM5 has been, to the best of my knowledge the HDDs and the motherboard. None of which that are reused. So hopefully this can revive a few dead units.

Motherboards indeed. On my BM5 there was no life in the motherboard whenI aquired it, so I replaced it with another of the same type. The issue is probably due to bad capacitors on the VIA Epia EX motherbaord. I have yet to try to recap the original board to see if that will bring it to life again.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thanks for the extra info. This just got on my todo list for when I have some of the other projects I am working on finished

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Very impressive project, look very interesting.

If I understand it correctly the Beosound 5C will works as a controller for Sonos devices?  That could be very useful for me as I have Sonos devices in the house, but am missing an alternative to a phone/tablet for controlling the Sonos devices.

If it also works with the Beo4 remote control to play/pause, skip tracks and change volume for the Sonos devices that is even better 🙂

Is it correct to assume that this will also work with the Beoport if the display is powered separately and the IR is connected to the Beoports IR in port?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

pl212 wrote:

Finally fixed the CD skipping on my Beosound 2300, and I’m embarrassed to say it was simpler than I thought: dried or non-existant grease on the transport rails.  Drove me crazy because the skip happened at a very certain point on a CD, down to the second each time. So I thought it was a scratch in the CD — but a new copy of that same CD skipped in nearly the same place. Obviously it was that particular area of the rail that was either blocked by gunk or too dry.

Oh well, I got a CDM12 controller board re-cap out of it… (and all these SMD’s seen below tested within spec after removal, of course! 🙂

Great you got it working, and great info for other owners. I might try to go back to my Ouverture that need’s two CD presses before starting. Maybe the rails can have somthing to say in this ( I have cleaned and relubricated the gears).

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello and congrats on your Beolab 2500 Speakers.

Tomi Salamon wrote:

The speakers were part of Beosound set. Speakers came with two power cables and two 5 pin powerlink cables. Are those the right cables? Can I use them?

So just to be sure to not mess up please advise me if I l am thinking right about connecting them to MX4000.

Powerlink from speaker into power link on TV (left+right). Speaker independently into power outlet. PL on TV on.

This should be the correct way to do it yes. Powerlink cables are often 8 Pin, but the extra pins are not needed for the Beolab 2500 speakers (my own Beolab 2500 also have 5 Pin connectors on the cables).

Tomi Salamon wrote:

Any other settings on TV? Will the built in speaker also remain working?

According to the user manual you will get a new menu called speaker in the sound menu when you connect powerlink speakers. There you should be able to select 1 for internal speakers, 2 for external speakers and 3 for both internal and external speakers.

 

Hope this will get you some extra sound for your gaming

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Noel Haygarth wrote:

Thanks again. I now have a repaired and working Beomedia.

Great to hear 🙂

Noel Haygarth wrote:

I took a ghost image of the installation and also a copy to another hard disk for back-up, upgraded the RAM to 1GB and put a larger 500gb SATA hard drive inside the unit, using an IDE to SATA converter. If you get Microsoft DART V5 you can create a bootable USB and use Ghost 11.5 to make a copy of the installation.

Thanks for the input. I might look into putting an SSD in to it instead. I think there is some inspiration in some Beosound 5 threads about preparing the SSD for correct allignment.

Noel Haygarth wrote:

If yours is the same main board as mine, look at this manual for power supply options: https://theretroweb.com/motherboard/manual/um-epia-mii-162-63cd39724e43c965057015.pdf

Nice. I also came up with another idea to use an ATX extender cable and just move the existing power supply to another location in the case (it will need some sort of mounting bracket) as there is lots of space in the case

Noel Haygarth wrote:

Ironically there is no reason the whole system could not be ported to a different PC.

I had the same thought. The connections you were i doubt of is digital sound, so a motherboard with that will be needed. Also there might be some drivers issues, but I wonder if it is more or less like a PCI version of the Beoport which has prooven to work under windows 10, and therefor should be possible to use in anothjer system. But that is a test for another time

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Hi Mark and welcome to Beoworld!

The BC9000 speaker 1 sockets will accept 4-pin DIN cables like the ones available from Steve.  The extra two pins on the BC9000 speaker 1 sockets are to provide data to the Penta speakers.  This enables the display on the Pentas to show Volume and Source.  Speakers without displays should work fine without the two extra connections.

A workarround might be to use the 2 pin speaker cables, and get the data and ground connection from the AUX connector on on the BC9000 (Pin 6 is data, Pin 2 is ground) and if your penta have powerlink connect data to pin 6 and ground to pin 7 in that end.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Noel Haygarth wrote:

but your pictures are exactly what I need, so thank you

Great to hear that they are usefull, and hopefully that will get it going again

 

Noel Haygarth wrote:

To get the power supply off you need a very long but narrow flat headed screwdriver to gently push the clip that hold in outwards. You can then gently rock and pull the powersupply off.

Thanks. I will try to see if I can do that without to much damage. I wonder if another ITX power supply with a cable can be used instead. That would make future service much easier

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

And some more

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I have no opened up my Beomedia 1. The engieneers that desinged this did not have servicability as the main priority for sure. Man this thing is cramped, and I can,t belive the amount of hot glue used.

I have not yet been able to take the power supply of the ATX conencter. Maybe you have a hint for that?

But I have taken these pictures for now that might helt you placing the wires

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Try to take a look in this old thread that has some pictures of the inside of the Beomedia 1 https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/16279.aspx

Hopefully that can help you locate it. If that is not enough to locate the connection point I have a Beomedia 1 that I can open up when I am home again

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Not knowing about Beovision 10. But it is also my observation that the type number does not nessecarely reflect the age or Mk version of s product. Beolab 3500 for example has the same type number for both MK1 and MK2.

I think the type numbers is tied to different configurations of a product, like country specific versions.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Second post here, second para states that BC2 goes to A.Opt 0 if no speakers are connected – and post was made by quite an experienced poster/founder member.

https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/t/13784.aspx

And a post here says it goes to A.OPT 6:

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/12695/110803.aspx#110803

And here:

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/49635/349244.aspx#349244

Thanks for the links Guy. It seems likely that the BC2 will go to option 0 when no speakers are connected like the BS9000 does.

Not sure about the option 6 comment. If it was in option 6 (link room audio and video commands) it should react to all remote commands. Iw would not make much sense to default to that if no speakers are connected

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I just did a little test with my Beocenter 2 and a pair of Beolab 6000 speakers.

From powered of stated I connected power, waited for 10-15 seconds and tried to activate with the CD button on a BEO4. I tried this 4 times in a row.

• First time with speakers connected. The CD started playing at first press on CD.
• Second time. Disconnected the speakers and powered up. No reaction to a press on CD regardless of how many times I tried. Did the option setting, and then it reacted at first press on CD.
• Third time. Again with disconnected speakers. The same behaviour as the second time.
• Fourth time. I connected the speakers again and powered up. Again the CD started playing at first press on CD.

So based on this small test it seems to me that the BC2 will somehow go to option 0 when speakers is not connected.

I just took a look at the service manual, and a search does not give anything about options, so either this is a not documented “feature”, or a fault in the BC2 (maybe in combinaton with a flat battery?) .

Hope that other members might be able to chime in on this

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Oh and BTW thanks to all for the valuable input on restoring this 🙂 Very appreciated

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

This sounds kind of familiar to me. It has happend more that a few times that my Beocenter 2 would not react to remote commands and I had to do the options settings to get it to react. I have also thought about the possibility that it could be an internal battery, but I have yet to come to investegate it since it is not used daily in any kind of way.

I have not had the thought about the Powerlink speaker being connected/ not connected, and I can not remember in which situations it was setup when I had these issues. I can however try to se if I can replicate it with and without speakers connected. Maybe tomorrow if time allows it

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

And a few full body shots front and back

The other Beolink 5000 is not going to work for now as both the battery case and some of the internal plastic structure in the housing is damaged. Also it has missing lines and very visible artifacts, so that will require some more serious restoration and a couple of spare parts.

For now I will try to play around with the working Beolink 5000, and I will of course have to buy the wall mount for it 🙂

BTW one of the reasons I did get a Beolink 5000 was to confirm wheether my Beolink 7000 2way reapir was not working or if it was my 2 way systems that had faults. It seems to be the Beolink 7000, so I will have to get back working on that at some point

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

It has been a little busy since christmas, but I had some time to proceed on the Beolink 5000 project this weekend.

I had some thought about how to protect the display cable on the Beolink 5000 with no missing lines, and ended up with a relativly simple solution. I placed a piece of thick cardboard on the front of the remote covering the display and about the same lenght on the keyboard part. Then I used regular tape to attache the cardboard to the surface of both the display and the keyboard section. On the keyboard PCB i put a piece of tape around it all to secure it.

This was very helpfull when I removed the PCB and display from the housing, and when I removed the remains of double sided tape from the edges on the back of the display.

However I had to remove it when I remounted the parts as there is need for some flexing in the lenght direction when putting in the PCB after the display has been secured in place with new double sided tape.

I did not get to take anymore pictures in the process, as some of it was very fiddly to work on.

But to sum up I cleaned all the mechanical parts like rubber keys, aluminum top and housing. Also I gave the housing af fresh layer of black spray paint to cover some of the dents it had on it.

After that I remounted the IR PCB with the best of the battery cases, and connected the Keyboard PCB. This parts was very tricky when the IR PCB is already mounted. Maybe a better way would be to connect the PCB’s and then mount it all in one operation?

Anyway, after putting it all back together I am pleased to announce that I now have a Beolink 5000 with working 2way functionality and no missing lines in the display

Location: Denmark

[Author]

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