[Madskp]

Glad to hear you figured it out.

Testing stuff that is not fully assembled can sometimes introduce veird anomolies

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

In the Beolink Handbook ver. 2.1 (available in the Beotech section) the whirring for the IR eye for both Bsys 3 and 4 is shown for IR eye’s bot with and without auto contrast. From what I can you should be able to replace the existing cable in the IR eye with a standard network cable instead following the whirring diagrams in the Beolink handbook.

Also in the Beolink handbook is the part numbers for the two types of 9 pin mini DIN to start cable. There is both one with a Female and a male scart. part numbers in the screenshot below:

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Rolf2 wrote:

– Is it possible to connect my DVD 2 to the BSys 4 and how?

For connection of the DVD2 you will have to use the AV socket on the Bsys 4 in order to control the DVD2. B&O made a 9 Pin DIN to start start cable for this purpose. Not sure if that is available anymore. More info about this can be found in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-v1-connection-old-stuff/

Other old thread suggest that you can also use HDMI to connect the DVD2 to a TV, but you will still need the start connection in order to get control. Not sure how this is setup on the Bsys 4 connection menu.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Not sure what it could be, but maybe a hint for fault finding. Does it do it both with the automatic function when you place it on a table, and when the manuel move on the setup menu is used?

If it is only in automatic mode it could maybe be related to the activation switches.

 

On another note belt size and tension can  be very important. I was advised about the belt size in this post for reference: https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolink-7000-belt/#post-66838

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

As ever, thanks for all the invaluable help, Madskp.

You are welcome, and glad to hear that it worked for you. I also became a little wiser about how this integration of the BS5 with an other audiomaster works. Till now I have thought of the option of Audimaster = 0 as the same as a link room, but it seems to be the way to integrate it with an other audiomaster, but you will loose the possibility for Spotify and A.AUX sources on it.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just did a little test with my Beossound 5 (AM = NO), Beocenter 2 (opt. 0) and Beocenter 6-23 Tv (opt. 2).

This seems to work, although the first time I selected N.music I had to activate it manually on the BS5 buttons after I had activated the source with the remote (which did activate the BC2, BC6 and got the picture showing on the BS5). The controls might not be optimal, and as mentioned earlier I have yet to see an official setup guide for this combination, so might not be a fully supported scenario.

One issue that came up while testing, and might only be related to a failure in my system: at one point the music started to be scratching like a bad radio signal and after that I never got the music playing again, although still having full control of the BS5 with the remote.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Before you tidy the wirering to much you might want to check how the BS4 and BS5 behave togheter with the overlapping commands

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

A way to test the BS4 is to set it in opt 1 and connect it to your Bl3500 and see if that will work together

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

There might be some indicators of how to set the BS5 in this post https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/making-a-beosound-5-an-auxiliary-to-a-beosound-9000/#post-51322

Besides that I guess the BS 4 should be set to opt 0 since the BS3 has the IR control (opt.2)

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

So, I tried putting the Beosound 5 into Audio Slave mode and putting the Beosound 4 into A.Opt 0, with my Beosystem 3 in V.Opt 2, but then no audio source worked at all – only video sources worked via my Beo4 or Beo6 remotes.  It I played a CD direct from the BS4’s CD button, it played, but no sound.

Hmmm yes this is tricky since you have the BS3 receiving the IR signals. That means that maybe both the BS4 and BS5 should be in option 0. But Again not sure how the overlapping sources will work.

Slave mode should not work as far as I can tell since a link room can not share it’s sources with the main room.

I might be able to do some tests on my system tomorrow

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The BS4 and BS5 might be able to coexist in a ML network as mentioned in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beosound-4-and-5-together/

However I have not seen any official setup guides for this, but BS4 can work with Beoport with the N.music and N.Radio sources.

However the BS5 slso has A.Aux and A.mem (spotify), and CD if a ripper is connected, so not sure how and if these overlapping sources can be handled.

i might be able to try some setups with my bC2 and BS5 to see how things are handled in that setup

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Thanks for the info.  I think I had misunderstood how to use the service tool.  I had hit the 3 buttons to update the firmware, btu I had not realised I also had to hit ‘Clone Entire HDD’ in order to install the latest software (and also reset it to factory settings).

I now have 7.00.00.0511, and I see there are several updated features, including Music Services (for Spotify), and the option to use my NAS for music storage, which is really useful as my music collection is already on there.

Great to hear that it was possible to get it updated 🙂

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I have my speaker connected to my Beosystem 3, and I also have my Beocenter 9500 connected to that same ML network (via a 1611 converter).  I know that Spotify will only work on the BS5 if it is set as the Audio Master, so does anyone know, is there any way to set my BC9500 so it can still be used, in the same room as the BS5?  It’s important to me as I like playing vinyl, and my BG9500 is connected to my BC9500.

I am afraid you are back to the issue we have been discussing in other threads that only one Audio master is possible in a ML network, and since you both wan’t the BS5 to be a master and the BC9500 can only be a master (through the 1611) you will run into problems.

My best suggestion as also mentioned in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/a-aux-link-masterlink-and-network-link-3-bo-generations-together-3/#post-65064 will be to get 2 NL/ML converters and make two separate ML networks and choose via the converters which sources can be used where.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

I am pretty sure that I used the software package and tools from post #47089 at the top of this page, and I have version 7.00.00.0511

I don’t remember which version was on my BS5 before I restored it, so I can not be sure if there could be issues if you update from an older version. However I belive that you should be able to restore to an empty drive from that tool, so should be possible.

Have only been doing the restore once to be sure that all was factory reset, so not much experience with the tool.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Good to hear it worked out succesfull 😀

As an added bonus you can use the 2 other connectors for an extra source (computer, phone, MP3 player, Record player etc.) that can be activated with the TV command if needed

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Josef Schnieders wrote:

That adapter looks like a solution, I’ll have a look if it’s available in Germany (or EU).

 

It should be. I just searched for 5 Pin DIN 4 RCA

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

A cable like this  https://www.amazon.co.uk/kenable-Degree-Phono-Female-Sockets-Red/dp/B06XDXJLHR  can be an easy way to utilise both inputs on the 1611 converter

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The link room IR eye buttons will default to Radio if nothing is already playing.

Since you use the 1611 converter there is no real source, but the 1611 can select between a Video or an Audio input on the AAL connector. Wheether it is an audio or a video input is defined by how your cable between the streamer and the 1611 is wired. See this for a sketch with the two inputs and how they are wired https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/22/#post-42623

In your case the cable is most probably wired for the video input, thus you have to press TV or any other video source on a remote to activate that input.

If you get a correct wired cable you can use audio commands instead, and I belive the buttons on the IR eye will activate that input.

I can try to test this some time next week if you want to have confirmed that it will work.

Hope this helps with this issue

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thank you very much 😀

It’s always hard to judge how much these old belts have stretched over the years

Now to find a place to source them

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Nebojsa Jankovic wrote:

most of the time pin numbers are as in the attached photo, looking at the inside of the DIN plug, the solder side. Also, see some online information specifically for the BG7000 system, BUT in this case, I can’t be sure if the numbers are from the solder side or the face-side of the plug…

Please be aware that the Google AI suggestion in one of the attached pictures is not showing the correct pinout as it shows pin 1 and 4 for audio output where the correct ones are pin 3 and 5, so I would not trust these AI results for anything usefull

To prove my point I tried to do the same google search with 3 different ways to spell pinout and got three different suggestions for the pinout (all wrong and crossed out to avoid spread of misinformation).

I have a hard time trusting these AI results where and old fashion search would have given similar results even if I did not spell pinout the same way 😖

———- Rant over ————

Instead I would refer to something like this

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/cfs-filesystemfile.ashx/__key/CommunityServer.Components.PostAttachments/00.00.28.92.27/Pic-2.jpg

and this thread that might also be helpfull

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/how-to-wire-7-din-plug-to-beogram/

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Good to hear that the issue was only a fuse 🙂

The brass knob “tuning” indeed seems to be very important. On my CD50 it was also glued into position besides being hold by the grub screw, which indicates the importance of it’s position.

Hopefully your donor player will be a walk in the park to restore now that you have the experience from this one

 

 

Location: Denmark

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