[Madskp]

I first saw now that this was also posted here. Very great that you have made the software available :-). These softwares can be hard to track down if needed for a repair or an upgrade.

I might have a go at updating my BM4500 to 2way at one point in the future.

Would you happen to know if the eproms has to be the excact model or if other can be used?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Ah thank you – I didn’t know that ML to ML on a Beolink Wireless 1 was on later software only.  Mine are both earlier serial numbers than the one you have given, so I’m sure that’s it.

yes very likely then.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

It was only really for testing the capability of them anyway.  I’ll use them with PL speakers connected instead.

One thing to know is that there can be stability issues as they work on the 2.4Ghz waveband which is also used for WI-FI, Bluetooth, microwave owens, door bells, baby alarms, and probably a lot of other things. So inteference from one or more of the mentioned can happen. Again the servicetool is needed for changing the channel trying to avoid inteference, so not very user friendly on that account.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

you might havea aolder software version on your BLW1 units

ML to ML on the BLW1 is supported from SW 2.1

This software version was introduced from serial number higher than 19956171. So if your units has a lower serial than that chances are you are on a lower software version.

As far as I know the only other way to check and update the software is with a dealer service tool.

And if you go for a higher software all wireless units has to be on the same version.

Hope this is helpfull

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Not much info, but probably enough to answeryour question https://beoworld.org/beocenter-terminal-remote-controller/

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Nick Davison wrote:

Another question do the Penta displays work when plugged into a BC9300. I have fully wired leads and they do work on the TV but not with my 9300. Is that a fault?

Not sure, but is it correct that there is a switch for selecting either Audio or Video on the socket panel of the Pentas?

If so maybe that will change the behaviour

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

It sounds to me like both the TV and the BS9000 are set to option 2 (receiving both audio and video commands). If you change both to option 1 the V1 will only react to video commands and the BS9000 only to audio commands.

I think that would be the simplest in this setup

I dont know how to do the option settings with a BEO5, but if you have a BEO4 or s Beolink 1000 I can post the instructions

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

A little update to this thread as I have acqured an Almando Masterplay. More info about that in one of the first posts where this is mentioned as a solution for driving a BL3500 https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/bl3500-and-the-mcl-pl-connector/#post-44537

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Kim wrote:

But, when trying to play TuneIn (Radio) or Music (N.MUSIC) from the Moment then the BL3500 quickly indicate source and then powers off (including that it also powered off the BS6500 stereo) all other units in the ML-network.

I have not tried getting sources across 2 BLC’s myself as I only have one, but if thinking in ML termonlogy it sounds logical that if you switch to another source then you turn of the currently playing source, although that should not happen if the source is in use in another room. Does this happen both when the BS6500 has been started from another room and if has been started from the BL 3500, or only in one of the cases?

Kim wrote:

To be mentioned is that the Beolink 1611 has fw 1.3 and whether that is an issue or not…

I have yet to see or hear about another software version of the 1611 converter, so I would not think that as the issue.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might want to set theBLC as A.master, V.Master or AV.master

On the tab: “sources visible to ML” you will have to define what ML source names your BV10and Moment sources should have when controlled from the BL3500

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

There is a Danish webshop offering Powerlink mK2 cable without connectors https://www.av-connection.com/?PGr=911&srsltid=AfmBOopLUU3o7AZxJEs0aQmG3gGYczbeavN-MXEDjOdu_vMtqdI6-6dV

Regarding pinout try to search for Beolink Handbook where the wirering is shown

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I wasn’t aware of that, so perhaps it’s a new product.  I assume it swaps the datalink across from pin 6 to 7.

I belive so.

Guy wrote:

I was aware of this older version, but I don’t think it’s available any longer:  http://www.iconic-av.co.uk/item/1321/RIAA+Pre-Amplifier+with+Datalink+for+BeoGrams/

Oneremote also had an other one before which I belive did the same. I found a picture of it here https://images.guloggratis.dk/listings/1280×1280/7002ab6a-e44c-455e-846e-f066e255c35b.webp

I have managed to find a used one of the brand Flint with the same feature, but I do not think that is available as new anymore.

 

rjnicko93 wrote:

Steve tells me he can make a datalink Din Bypass cable so hopefully this will solve the issue and I will have remote operation. Just waiting for him to get back to me and I’ll be placing the order.

Great to hear that is also an option. I wonder how that cable will look like.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

An easy solution instead of making special cables could be the RIAA from Oneremote which also passes the datalink control signals

https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69068-riaa-amplifier/121270-riaa-ii-preamplier/

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

benjarys wrote:

Thanks for the tip, but I don’t see anything there. I would think it’s not the screen but the video engine that’s the problem? Is that possible?

I have only had the remote control issue on my V1, so no experience with video engine/panel problems.

benjarys wrote:

I hope I can do something when I receive the original remote

I am not sure that would make much difference since it should react to any BEO4 and or Beolink 1000 remote.

One thing you could try though with one of your BEO4’s i to set the options settings for the TV  to 1  (if it is in option 0 it will no respond to IR signals)  by pressing and holding the LIST and • buttons, then repeatedly pressing LIST until “OPTION?” appears on the display, pressing GO, and finally scrolling with LIST to select V.OPT and pressing 1 to confirm.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

When it is turned on try to use a flashlight close to the screen to see if anything is showing on the screen. If so it could be a backlight issue.

To be sure there is something to see on the screen you can adjust the volume with the app. The current volume level should show up in the middle in top of the screen

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I’ll persist a bit longer, but to be honest I don’t like working on it!  Those pull-out ribbon cables are very tricky, and the very sticky outer case leaves black marks all over your hands (and workbench) when handling it.

I had the same feeling when I was working on one of these.

Guy wrote:

I am adamant that I won’t clean it until it shows signs of life!

Fully understandable, it’s a lot of work if it does not end up working

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might wan’t to take a look at this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-v1-not-turning-on/ where I did end up repairing one with a similar issue. It seems like a leeaking super capacitor can make some issues in the circitry for the IR receiver. However I ended up scratching the board by removing the super capacitor so had to go through some hardcore micro soldering, but if you are lucky the issue might be solvable by cleaning the affected area and replace the super capacitor.

When you say you do not see an image does that mean that it is not even showing the little source text in the top of the screen when it is turned on by the app? Or are you maybe able tho change source to see if something else is showing af picture. If nothing is showing your V1 might also have other issues.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

But first I had to have a quick look at my grandson’s Lightsabre – no prizes for guessing what was wrong with it …

I have repaired that same fault on several pieces of toys 🙂 Not great production quality

Guy wrote:

I have also had a good look at the faulty BeoSound 4.  Basically it’s stuck at stand-by and will not respond to remote (other than power button which closes the door, which works fine).  On the keyboard the only button that makes anything happen is the LOAD, which causes the door to open further for CD loading.  The stand-by red light shows permanently, and responds by flashing if I change the option setting.   I have tried entering the Service Menu using both keyboard and remote – neither work.  I do have the PIN but am unable to enter the PIN menu.  I have tried controlling it by connecting to my BV10-32 with an ML cable – no joy there.
Searching the old forums came up with this post (amongst others) from Peter:  https://archivedforum.beoworld.org/forums/p/39215/325907.aspx#325907
So I think that is probably the problem – a SW problem related to the PIN system.  Nevertheless I stripped it down and checked all the connectors etc – the ribbon cables are mostly the push-in type (no locking mechanism) which I found a bit strange – some were quite difficult to re-insert.  The backup battery is fine (3.2V) but I also tried shorting it out briefly in the hope that this would kick the processor back into life – this didn’t work!   So unless anyone has any further suggestions I think I will give up!
Just for interest here’s a photo of the insides – the ‘suspect’ PCB6 is at the bottom and the backup battery is behind the two ribbon cables that emerge from it.

Tough luck. These Beosound 4’s does not seem to be as easy to work on as the BC2300/2500/BS Ouverture/BS 3×00 system

Looking in the servicemanual for the BS4 something about modules being registered to the BS4 when powered on for more than 12 hours or the Pin code being activated/deactivated which sounds like a lock in between the main PCB and the other components which could probably cause trouble if one module is malfunctioning.

I also noticed in the servicemanual that there are some pictures showing different points where certain voltages should be available. If you wan’t to dig further one option could be trying top measure if these voltages are present.

Other than that trying to switch modules with some from a donor could be an option, knowing that it could have the same issues.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello and welcome to Beoworld

You can use a Beolink Converter type 1611 as a source. This can give you 2 inputs that are selectable in the room by using either a audio (eg. CD, Radio, A.mem etc.) or VIDEO (eg. TV, DVD, V.MEM etc.) command from a Beolink 1000 or BEO4 remote. Furthermore the AUDIO source can be selected directly on the IR eye’s by pressing play, and turned of again by pressing the same button.

The diagram in this post https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beolab-3500-and-1611-converter-settings/page/22/#post-42623 shows how to wire it (with a Beolab 3500 as link room, but the principle is the same). The easy rout for the cable to the audio aux conenctor is a 5 Pin din to 4 RCA connectors. Two of the RCA will be for left and right the AUDIO command, and the other two for left and right for the VIDEO command.

Hope this solution is helpfull

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

TK wrote:

I have a working 4000 – does it share the same Aux Dual-DL pin-outs as the 2300? If so, I could test and see how it behaves with this setup.

The 4000 is the same as an Ouverture in Europe, so it has Masterlink, and therefore not DL86. The AUX connector does have DL80 that responds to both TAPE2 and PHONO commands like the BC2300

TK wrote:

What I’m not entirely sure of is the logic and safety of having two sources share a single audio channel without some form of protection circuitry, so I’ll leave that to others.

That part can probaly be reverse engienered from how that part of the circitry is made in a Beomaster/Beocenter with separete TAPE2 and PHONO connections, but will need some interfacing with the BB part to switch between the audiosignals for the two sources

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Oh an btw if it was from ML I would suspect that a Beolink Converter type 1611/1612 could be used just as well since that tranlates between ML and DL86

Location: Denmark

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