[Madskp]

Christopher Sutcliffe wrote:

Q2 Assuming that I can get these connectors off how do I clean it, do I just dunk it in IPA overnight or some such or is there a special procedure?

As far as I remember I just wiped the motor shaft with a cloth soaked in IPA.

Christopher Sutcliffe wrote:

Q3 The motor also seems to be pressed into a metal plate, is it best practice to press it off before cleaning?

Not quite sure about this, but Maybe my pictures or those in the linked thread can give you some answers

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

You might find some inspiration for disassembely of the motor in this thread where I disassembled the motor

https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/boegram-cd50-carrige-slow/#post-66138

Feel free to ask if you need any clarification and I will try to refresh my memory on the subject

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

paddy2042 wrote:

Sorry a bit of confusion. There is no BV8 in the equation as this is toehold TV that has been replaced by a Samsung!

My bad. I meant that I do not see a need for Masterlink between BC2 and BS3 in this usecase.

paddy2042 wrote:

I tried your trick of removing the Masterlink for the BS3 but it made no difference.

You might try to redo the option settings for the Beossytem 3:

• Be sure that the entire system is in standby
• Hold down standby + list on the BEO4
• The text in the display should change.
• Press the list button until OPTION is shown in the display and press GO
• Press list until VIDEO is shown in the display, then press 2 and GO
• The red LED on the IR eye should blink once to confirm it has received the change

This should make sure that the Beosytem 3 receives both VIDEO and Audio commands as it should.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Can you explain how you used them independently. If you were to play a CD for example. I asume you would have to use an other command for one of the zones?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

One other note for information. DVD sound is tranfered via SCART between BC2 and BV8

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Ok. I do not see the need for Masterlink between the Bv8 and the BC2 (and also it will make conflict between BC2 and BS9000) with this usecase, so I would suggest you try to unplug Masterlink from the BC2 (power down all devices before you do that)and see if anything changes

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

How is the Beocenter 2 conencted to the BV8, by Scart or by Masterlink and do you use the DVD in the BC2 to watch films or just for CD listening?

Did you change the cabling when you replaced the BV8 with the Beosystem 3 or is it the same cables that connect to the BS9000 and the BC2?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

One more follow up question. When it worked did both the 9000 and the Beolink Active start when you activated a source like CD?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

James Powell wrote:

The passive is in the same room as my 9000 but it didn’t affect it previously

Ok, just to be sure do you also have speakers connected to the BS9000 or only to the passive?

If you have speakers on both could you control them separately before?

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hard to say what it could be then

Do you have any other link rooms and are they working?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

James Powell wrote:

I also have a beo4 remote which I prefer to use. Bizarrely, the IR eye will not respond to either remote however, if I hold done the red “off” button on the remote for about 5 seconds the red light on the IR eye blinks..

One thing that could have happen in the link room is that the option settings was changed and affects how it receives IR commands. You can try to set the option for the link room again with the BEO4 by following this procedure:

• Be sure that the entire system is in standby
• Hold down standby + list on the BEO4
• The text in the display should change.
• Press the list button until OPTION is shown in the display and press GO
• Press list until LINK is shown in the display, then press 6 and GO
• The red LED on the IR eye should blink once to confirm it has received the change

Try to see if this makes a difference

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Velbekomme. Håber du får det til at virke.
jeg bor i Aarhus

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Ok. Det nemmeste til de indstillinger der skal laves er faktisk Beolink 1000, så jeg prøver at beskrive proceduren her.

Når du skal tilslutte Beolink Converteren så sluk for alt det andet udstyr. Når du tænder udstyret igen så tænd først Beosystem 3 og Beomaster 6500 først og vent derefter 10 sekunder inden du tænder Beolink Converteren.

Indstillingen skal laves mens alt er i standby.

På Beolink 1000 tryk i rækkefølge: Picture, 2, Store (dette gør at Beosystem 3 modtage både Audio og Video kommandoer fra fjernbetjeningen). Derefter tryk: Sound, 0, Store (dette gør at Beomaster 6500 ikke modtager fjernbetjenings kommandoer mere, men bliver betjent gennem link kablerne). På den måde er det Beosystem 3 der aktiverer alle kilder og spiller dem ud igennem dens højtalere.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Det er helt fint der er mange specielle ting med B&O kabling og opsætning. Du skyder bare løs. Der er ingen dumme spørgsmål her.

Ift. indstillinger vil jeg lige høre hvilken fjernbetjening du har da det er lidt forskelligt hvordan man laver disse indstillinger alt afhængigt af fjernbetjeningen?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hej Henrik og velkommen til Beoworld

For at sætte dem sammen skal du bruge en Beolink Converter type 1611 eller type 1614 (1611 har lidt mere funktionalitet i andre sammenhænge, men 1614 kan sagtens bruges i din sammenhæng). Converteren skal tilsluttes med et Masterlink kabel til Beosystem 3 og med et AUX cabel med 7 Polet din stik i begge ender til AUX stikket på Beomaster 6500.

Derudover er det nødvendigt at lave nogle indstillinger på hhv. Beosystem 3 og Beomaster 6500 om hvordan de skal reagere på fjernbetjeningsinput i sammenhæng med hvordan højtalere er tilsluttet.

Hvis begge dele er i samme rum er det setup der normalt anbefales er at tilslutte højtalerne til Beosystem 3 lade lyden fra Beomaster 6500 komme ud gennem dem.

Hvis du skriver tilbage om hvordan du forestiller dig at højtalerne skal være tilsluttet kan jeg give lidt mere vejledning om indstillingerne

Mvh

Mads

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

KasperS wrote:

For the X2 filter capacitors will this one work (given the distance between the legs is correct)?: https://www.elextra.dk/p/x2-st%c3%b8jkondensator-100nf-01uf-275vac-20mm/H22282

That would be the one I would pick if you can for sure verify that the broken ones says 100N

KasperS wrote:

Again – thank you very much. (and in Danish: Tusind tak Mads!)

No problem, feel free to ask if you need more input (Velbekomme og held og lykke med reparationen 🙂 )

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

KasperS wrote:

1 – What are the exact specifications for those capacitors?

As far as I can read they are both 100n X2 filter capacitors. This information and the length between the legs of the components should be enough knowledge. X2 is very important in this use case to my knowledge.

And please be aware that there are risk of getting electric shock when working on a power supply even if it is disconnected as the large electrolytic caps can still hold a charge.

KasperS wrote:

2 – Where can I buy them (I’m located in Denmark)?

If you wan’t to buy them locally there are places like Elextra and Elektronik Lavpris, but the component can probably be found elsewhere also

KasperS wrote:

3 – Are there other components that most likely will have failed at the same time?

A known issue is a super capacitor on the large PCB that might start to leak and make some trouble with the IR circuitry. I did a replacement and repair in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beoplay-v1-not-turning-on/page/2/#post-55660

If you are more lucky than me and get away with removing the supercar without board damage you might just have to clean up any leaked stuff from the capacitor. Be aware that the supercap is difficult to desolder because there is a massive group plane in the board in this area that will suck the heat away from your soldering iron. An easier solution might be to just leave the legs in the board, and solder wires to a new supercap and place it in the expansion bay like I did.

You can try to inspect the area that are below the supercap in normal position to get an idea about any leakage. I have yet to have issues (and have not yet inspected) my primary V1 which has been in normal use for around 12-13 years now, so it might not be an issue.

KasperS wrote:

4 – What could be the reason for them blowing up?

Try to search for RIFA cap failure. This is a very common issue with these components. I would not be afraid to replace them with the same brand again. They should probably last for another good period of time. Use plastic gloves when handling the caps or you will have the smell on you hands for days or weeks afterwards. Also the TV might keep the smell for some time, but it will eventually wear of.

 

Hope this helps going forward with the issue

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

James Powell wrote:

then… I used my BEO5 to turn on my Samsung tv. After this my eye no longer responds to the remote or touch (ie using the buttons on the eye)

I would not suspect the use of a BEO5 remote to have changed anything.

Are you using the BEO5 remote for the room with the Beolink Passive or do you have another B&O remote in that room?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The NL/ML converter will probably get you the best user experience.

you can connect the BC2 to the BV11 in other ways, but the control will get more complicated

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Thanks for the input pl212 and YannChris

Some of these manuals are available in the members section, and some have been before. I will try to update my overview with links to those that are available at Beoworld and see if I can make Multicare make the missing ones that are scanned available too.

Also I will try to scan my German Beolink System manual 1987/88 and send it to Multicare for upload to the archive.

pl212 wrote:

Here is a scan of the 1989-1990 MCL2 System Guide that I have:

https://archive.org/details/Bang-Olufsen-Master-Control-Link-2-System-Manual-89-90

It’s for the North American market, which may make it of special interest. The NTSC MX5000 and VX5000 are big focus of the publication.  I’d be especially interested in how it differs from the “March 1990” one in @Madskp ‘s post!

Most of the in-wall installation items at the end are European — however, I have some North American wall parts in my collection that I’d like to document as well.

There are some differences the front page in your version for example. I wonder if that is the actual front page and the one I have is just missing the real front page. However mine says rev. 1  3/90 which I cannot spot on your version, so probably there is a difference, although the page count is the same so might be minor revisions. I will try to look at the head to head one day in the near future and see if I can spot any changes.

Location: Denmark

[Author]

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