[Madskp]

If I remeber correctly from another thread that I can’t find right now there is a possibility of a transistor and a diode in the datalink circuit that can fail. It is transistor TR1 and diode D5

C63 is directly connected to the data pins on the speaker 2 conections

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Thanks – I’ve downloaded it ready for when it arrives. I’m using a Windows 10 PC (I’m a keen PC gamer, so Mac is no good for me!). I’ve held off on installing Windows 11 for now as it needs me to change some BIOS settings and then reinstall, and I simply can’t be bothered with all that just yet!

Great, if I remember correctly you have to run the setup as administrator for it to work

[Madskp]

Another source for narrowing down when the button and LED was removed is to do an Ebay search for Beolink Passive and ML/MCL converter. A lot of sellers have pictures that show both the front and the sticker with the serial number.

[Madskp]

Also be sure that the left and right speakerlink connector are in the left and right speaker 2 socket respectivly on the BM7000. One of the connectors are carrying power and the other data. If they are factory made connectors there should be left and right stickers on them.

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

As for the Beolink PC2, I missed out on the one that was on eBay but another will come up, and I am just too curious not to buy one now!  One thing I didn’t think of though – will I be able to get the software for it?

It is not official available from B&O anymore, but I was able to find it online on a random download site. Let me know when if you going to need it and I can supply you with it. I have i running on Windows 10 even though it is not official supported.

[Madskp]

Not able to answer your questions, but have an input based on the Beolink Passive and ML/MCL converter I have:

My Beolink Passive has the LED and power button and the serial number is 142373xx, so from year 2000 (source https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/serial-number-and-date-of-manufacture/ )

My ML/MCL converter does not have a visible LED (it is still in there and can be seen through the grill in the cabinet) and no power button. It has serial number 194461xx  so from year 2006

Hope this might be usefull, and maybe others can chime in with info from their products to narrow down the period where it was changed

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

I am speechless. Thank you very much for the effort 😀

[Madskp]

There are some reel to reel threads on the archived forums that might be interesting for you to take a look at, for example this

https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/18355.aspx?PageIndex=1

Other that that I have almost zero experience with reel to reel

[Madskp]

The Playmaker is working 🙂 It is missing the stand though. Could someone measure the dimension of the stand material and the lenghts of the standing and lying part? Then I think I can bend something out of steel wire. Thanks in advance

[Madskp]

ebnrob wrote:

If you’re not using the masterlink port on your Ouverture you could connect a 1611 converter to it, and plug the tape or record deck into it’s aux in. You can pick these up for about £30 on ebay. The converter would configure itself as the video master, giving you an extra source on the ouverture. Whatever is plugged into the converters aux socket will then be accessible on the TV, SAT & V.MEM sources on the ouverture. Rob.

Thanks for the input. I am avare of this solution, however my goal is to be able to datalink control the 2 connected units. Therefore the specific question regarding the Y-cable to datalink AUX solution

[Madskp]

It can be setup as s link room (option 5 or 6), but might not transmit the clock then. BTW it also need a connected running computer to work

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

Actually you know, there’s a very cheap Beolink PC2 going on eBay (which I believe is effectively the same as the Beoport?). Is there a way for me to have them all connected – Beolink PC2, Beolink Converter 1611, Beolab 3500 and Beocenter 8500? The Beolink PC2 on eBay has a Masterlink cable included which is split, so it can connect to two other Masterlink devices, so I’m thinking one connects to the BL3500, one connects to the 1611, and then of course my 1611 connects to my Beocenter 8500? Or am I simplifying it too much!? I’ve read that the Beolink PC2 acts as a master, so would this interfere with my Beocenter 8500?

the Beolink PC2/Beoport will conflict with the BC8500 as they have the same sources PHONO = N.RADIO, A.TAPE2 = N.MUSIC

So no that will not work

[Madskp]

Great to know that it is repairable 😀

[Madskp]

matador wrote:

Jealousy…

understandably judging by the prices on used B&O you have mentioned in other posts 🙂

matador wrote:

Madskp wrote:

As for the BC5000 it is completly dead,

Nothing B&O is ever “completly dead”, maybe the Beosound 3 and still, not always. Correct your post unless I will have to moderate it!

Let’s call it dead on arrival then 😉

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

An excellent find – I am looking forward to hearing about lots of experiments with your new acquisitions, in particular the Video Link 1

I was also a little curious about that. I looks like it can send datalink signals between TV’s with datalink capability through the antenna cable, and that way a local room (I guess that means Link room in modern terms) can control the VCR in the main room. Clearly something for the MX and LX line of Beovisions, but might not be very usefull today. I will save it though if an idea pops up.

Guy wrote:

The DVD2 is a fantastic piece of engineering but just so very complicated in use – I had one for a while but gave it away free when I sold my BC6-23.  I now just use the far simpler DVD1.

It’s actually a HDR2, so again a thing that might not make much sence for modern TV’s. I will hook it up to the BC6 and test it though.

Guy wrote:

What’s the plan with the Playmaker?  (The main reason that I keep mine is in case I want to use the aux-in auto-sense to trigger PL speakers, perhaps for a non-B&O TV)

It is the autosense function I was going for, and might be primarely used in test setups

 

Btw. I have teted the 2 Beolab 3500. One is software 2.0 and is working, but the bass driveres are damaged. The other one is software 1.0. I ca not get it to activate my Ouverture, but it says ML is ok. But the SW 1.0 was also not fully working with Masterlink, so that might make sense.

As for the BC5000 it is completly dead, and the CD50 is ejecting the CD when I try to play one. It might be a small reapir.

[Madskp]

I was in the market for a Playmaker when I stumbled upon this deal for ~150€

All untested so have to see how good of a deal it was, but there might be some working parts between. A bonus is the Beolab 3500 table stand on one of the BL3500’s which seems to be almost unobtanium

From top to bottom:

Beogram CD50

Beocord 5000

Playmaker

2 x Beolab 3500 MK1

Beolit 505

Beolit 707

MCP 6500

Beocom 6000 MK1 with extra handset

4 x MCL2AV

MVL2A

LC2

HDR2

2 x BL1000

Video Link 1

Beolink Passive

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I’m not sure it’d work now anyway – out of curiosity I connected the BL3500 directly to the BV8 TV via Masterlink, and although it is clearly connected (the display on the BL3500 shows ‘TV’ or ‘SAT’ and so on, depending on the TV source selected), I still get no clock, and no sound out of the BL3500.  Probably a setting I’m not getting right where the sound is concerned, but I’m guessing that if the clock were going work, it would just work.

I would have expected the sound to work here, but again not sure if a Beovision is different compared to a Beocenter in that regard.

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I also connected my Beocenter 9000 (which does have clock and timer, unlike my Beocenter 8500) to the BL3500 via the 1611 box, and again, no clock! I’m assuming therefore that foe the clock in the BL3500 to work, it needs to be connected to a more modern B&O audio system that has Masterlink built in, such Beosound 3000.

According to this post https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/p/38541/293010.aspx#293010 on the archived forum it can take some time to syncronize the clock so it might not show up instantly

[Madskp]

The Beovirus makes you do the wierdest things 😉

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

I just ran your proposed setup through the B&O Product Configuration Guide and it stated that either BL1611 or 1614 is suitable.  There was a note to say that the TV ‘must be equipped with software Build 109b or higher, in order to be compatible with the Beolink converter’, but you’ve already tested it with the BL1611 so I doubt that you will have any problems.

I wonder what that comptability issue is about, or if it is just about the 1614 Beolink Converters missing voltage for the Masterlink network. New rabbit hole to dive into 😉

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I’m also wondering (and judging from your previous posts you might know this @Madskp!), if I bring my BV8 TV into the Masterlink network, then the TV becomes the ‘controller’, so to speak, and powers the network, so I could use either  the 1611 or the 1614, but not both?

Probably the 1614 should work in this scenario*, however since you have the 1611 this is more flexible if you decide to get a different TV that does not have Masterlink.

*My experience is based on use with a Beocenter 6-26, so actually a little unsure if there is any difference to using it with a Beovision with Masterlink in that regard.

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