[Madskp]

Rob Bune wrote:

In the video the raiser appears to lift at the end of the movement, that looks correct to me.

At the time I posted the video I belive that it would raise fully up, and the cam wheel would have to move even further. However I found in an old thread that it is only moving fully up when a disc is detected.

However Where I was at this point I had to adjust the cam wheel one tooth and also adjust the brass nut on the cam wheel further down to make the raiser lift the CD high enough to reach the spindle that drives the disc.

The Brass nut had some sort of locking glue on top (the green stuff on the pictue) That indicates where it was placed originally, but it can be hard to see if it should have one revolution more even with a before picture.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Hello again

I am now working on my CD50 and after belt replacement I had some issues with the carrige movement as mentioned in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/boegram-cd50-carrige-slow/#post-65712

However this is now solved and cam down to adjusting to one misplacement of the camwheel by on tooth, and how much the brass nut on top of the cam wheel was screewd down.

I actually had it playing some tracks on a CD, but after i tried to skip a few tracks it started acting like the one in the video you are linking to.

On thing I will look further into when I have the time is if fine adjustment of the brass nut does any difference.

One thing I notice in the comments to the youtube video is a suggestion about disassembly of the motor and cleaning of it. This might be worth to research further into

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Take a look at this thread I made https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-6-23-software-upgrade/

you might want to aim for type number 9219-9226 to be sure that the DVI connector can be used with other commands than PC

Also if you need anything tested let me know as I have one of these

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Guy wrote:

Madskp wrote:
I have got hold of a RiAA with 7 Pin Din connectors where the datapins are reversed throug the unit.
Is it this one?  https://shop.oneremote.dk/shop/69068-riaa-amplifier/4199-riaa-ii/

(I assume that it swaps the datalink connection from pin 6 to 7)

No it’s a RIAA from something called Flint Products type 4587.

I found it second hand. Never heard of the brand before, but have been able to find adds for couple of other models with the same brand, but with other connection types.

This one however was ideal because of the 7 pin DIN connectors. Initially I thought I had to make the datalink connections myself, but it seems this was intended for use with B&O with datalink.

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Yes that should be possible. I have got hold of a RiAA with 7 Pin Din connectors where the datapins are reversed throug the unit. That makes it very easy to get the conttol part along with RIAA

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

stotty1111 wrote:

Thanks for the IPA useage link, I’ll give it a go! I suppose it should work on a BS4 body as well!

It will work there too. I had a BS4 for a short while and tried to clean the sticky stuff of that too. One thing I noticed though is that on the front plate you can rub to a level where it will still have a smooth finish, but if you rub to much you get to a surface that is more plastic like. In any case try a spot that will be less visible to start with.

and the back with the ribs will be a nightmare to clean.

 

stotty1111 wrote:

And the belt replacements, yes, you gave me some leads late last year when I did them, I have not rebuilt the unit as yet, but hopefully, later today or tomorrow, I have been busy building a model of a Pilot boat based at Hartlepool, it is radio controlled and is for steering competition use here in France!

Oh yes I remember about the belt. hopefully it will solve the issue.

Also good luck with your boat model. Long time since I have seen a remote controlled boat. I guess drones are a morf popular choice arround here

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just to illustrate the issue I have made a small videoclip which shows where it stops in the end of the video

https://youtube.com/shorts/GoGJ3qFGhXY

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

stotty1111 wrote:

I have always assumed that the set was on factory default but now I suspect in its past someone has been playing around with the settings in the hidden engineering section menus.

I think I am only the second owner of said tv but am now a very happy ‘bunny’ bearing in mind the cost to me of said unit.

Great outcome of what looked like an irritating situation 😀

stotty1111 wrote:

I am now inspired to get my BC2 rebuilt and recommissioned.

If you have issues with the CD not playing it can be due the clamper not closing entirely. This can be because of the belt driving the clamper being to loose. I had a thread about it here   https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-2-cd-tray-belt/

Also if the black rubber coating on the bottom of the unit is sticky there is some advice to remove it in this thread https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/topic/beocenter-2-issue/#post-55843

 

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The datalink signals are the same for Beograms with or without Riia.

However the pin used in the DIN connector differs.

Without Riaa datalink is on Pin 6

With Riaa datalink is on Pin 7

I think it was made this way to avoid starting a Beogram with Riaa when connected to a Beomaster/Beocenter with built in Riaa

Also For the Beograms with built in Riaa you can connect it to a CD socket (that use pin 7 for datalink) and control it with CD commands.

If neede you can reverse the pins and still control the Beogram

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Not sure what could trigger this.

Normal behaviour would be the green light showing shortly at power up and the changing to red (standby).

Does your Beolink Passive have a button on the front next to the LED?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Just to be sure what you mean by always on you might need to clarify in what context it is used as it can be used for the following usecases:

– Link room

– amplifier for passive speakers

– converter for Masterlink (ML) to Master Control Link (MCL)

Next,how you can tell it is allways on? Is the green LED on the box allways  on?

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

A little down this page https://www.hifi4all.dk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=78664&KW=Peter+Pan&PN=0&TPN=1 is a (not complete) list of software revisions for BEO4. Some of  the text is in Danish, but hope it can be usefull.

Th list indicates that the N.music/N.Radio functions must have been added in SW 4.2.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

It looks like he has a user account on the current forum although some months since last activity https://forum.beoworld.org/forums/users/die_bogener/

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

jfrancis49 wrote:

There are a couple of copper wires that connect the main board to the “chassis” of the BM 2400 which I unsoldered while replacing the parts, and soldered them back after I finished. I will check the other cables that run to that board.

I just found some photos of the inside of the BM2400 and can see that the connections and cables I was talking about on the BM3000 is made quite differently on the BM2400. However bad connections could still be worth checking.

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

There are some limitations in distribution of HDMI sources to masterlink.

This older thread might help you https://archivedforum2.beoworld.org/forums/t/40202.aspx

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

Multicare wrote:

Hi everyone,

We are experiencing some server/website issues.
We are flat out trying to find the issue.

Sorry for the issues.

Thanks for informing about the issue. If it is any help in troubleshooting the problem I have noticed that the site got slower and slower around a week before it was not possible to access anymore

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The behaviour of your touch buttons got me thinking about a Beomaster 3000 I worked on some years ago which after my work had both non working touch buttons, and also the volume would just go up by itself.

I got some suggestions in a thread here on Beoworld about the transistors in the touch button circuitry and replaced some of them without any change in behavior.

But then at one point I noticed that the flex cable between the two PCB’s under the touch buttons had some bad connections (broken cable where it was going through the PCB), but also that some of the wire ends from the flex cable was bend and touching each other on the solder side of the board.  solving these issues fixed the problems with the touch buttons.

So I would suggest that you look into those connections s they can easily be bend or damaged when working on the system.

I don’t know if the BM2400 PCB for the touch buttons is also divided in two or if it is using the same flex cables, but I hope this can be helpfull in your troubleshooting anyway

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

If that does not work it might be an idea to look into if similar parts can be found in a TV from the MX series. These might be easier to find than an extra AV9000

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

CharlieWednesday wrote:

I was wondering if I should switch the amplifier component from the 3000s onto the 4500s, to make a pair of BL4500s instead.  Not sure it’ll be worth the bother though.

Maybe check if the speaker foam looks ok on both of them. But other than that probably no other reason than scratches and fabric wear that could be issues

 

Location: Denmark

[Madskp]

The displa colors are mentioned here https://beoworld.org/beolab-4500/

I guess the 3000 and 5000 share the same display

Location: Denmark

[Author]

Posts